Menu

Show posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Show posts Menu

Messages - Stewartn

#1
It's time. The beloved Desiree is up on the hard and has been listed for sale. She's in very very good shape, yard maintained and lovingly cared for these last 9 years. Foe a look see, go to https://www.saillisca.com and scroll to Yachts for Sale. All info is there, or feel free to email, stewartn@optonline.net.
Thx to all
Stewart Napoleon
Desiree, C 34, #1472
OGYC
#2
Main Message Board / C34, Mk ll, #1472 for sale
September 25, 2017, 06:47:43 AM
The beloved Desiree is up for a new home. Built 2000, #1472 Mark ll. Located N'wlk, CT. If any interest, please call Peter Thorsby, Prestige Yacht Sales, (203) 353-0373.
Thx all
Stewart Napoleon
Greenwich, CT
#3
Stupid question: Anyone install or replace hatch seals on the cockpit hatches on a MKll '34. #1472 appears to have no seals at all. No significant water intrusion, but rattles, etc. Would like to add rubber gasket or foam tape. Better to install on hatch lid than bottom rim. Question is how do you keep the tape on rim with sticky side up, so sticky side adheres to lid when you close. Thanks all.
Stewart Napoleon
Desiree, C34, #1472
Old Greenwich YC
Greenwich, CT
#4
Main Message Board / Oil Breather Hose, Connections
August 30, 2016, 12:03:05 PM
The oil breather hose on my MK II, #1472, with a 35B Universal connects to the top of the engine (valve cover?) The fitting points down and to right forward (as you look at it). The original hose, 1999, could use replacement. But, this hose has a built in "U turn" so it leads
back to the air cleaner. Tried auto parts stores, no luck. Anyone replace this or reinvent the "U turn " connection. I am sure bending any normal hose this way will crimp it and restrict the flow. Any suggestions appreciated.
Stewart Napoleo
Desiree, C34, MkII, #1472
Old Greenwich YC. Greenwich, CT
#5
There is a persistent seepage from the bottom of the coolant reservoir. I tightened the hose clamp, ran the engine up operating temp and could see no leak on the bottom seam of the plastic container, However, the area around the barb and the hose clamp feels wet with antifreeze to the touch. This is not a big leak. It just seems to seep. I have put oil absorbent mats below the reservior, but would like to fix the problem. All suggestions welcome. Thx guys.
Stewart Napoleon
Desiree, MK II '34
Old Greenwich Yacht Club
Greenwich, CT
#6
Ben,
A suggestion: There is a Long Island Sound Catalina Association, LISCA. I am a member and I know there are several Catalinas in the association docked there or close by. Give a look at the web site, http://www.saillisca.com/ Great group, inexpensive membership. Feel free to email or call me for more info.
land 203 869 8057, stewartn@optonline.net
Rgds
#7
Where are you in CT?
Stewart Napoleon
C34, 1472
Old Greenwich Yacht Club
#8
Catalina 34 MK ll, # 1472, Yr built 2000, Engine Universal 35B.
There is a hose coming from the top of the valve cover on the engine that ends by simply tucked under the foam cover on the air filter. I understand why, but it is a really bad solution to Positive Crankcase Ventilation. Those fumes stink up the engine space and more. On later Universal models there is a fitting on the engine air intake throat that accepts and firmly attaches the hose and captures the fumes.
So anyone retrofit ? Doesn't seem like rocket science, but I'd like some reassurance and advice of parts used, etc. Any help is appreciated.
Stewart Napoleon
Desiree, C34, #1472
OGYC
#9
Main Message Board / Drippless
April 25, 2015, 07:47:55 AM
Catalina #1472, '34 MK II, built o/a 2000.
I am curious as to what other members did with the maintenance and/or replacement of the Drippless fitting. This one has worked flawlessly since I purchased the boat in 2008. It is soft, pliable to the touch, has plenty of tension, does not leak, etc. Boatyard says "don't make waves". But, I see all those ads, etc. about 10 yr replacement. BTW, I called PYY Dripless and asked. Said if it doesn't leak and has tension, no stiffening of the rubber - Go with it. What say other owners? Thanks.
Stewart Napoleon
Desiree
Old Greenwich Yacht Club
Greenwich, CT
#10
Main Message Board / Black Sludge in fresh water tank a
October 27, 2014, 06:45:55 AM
Black slime or algae is clogging fresh water pump filter. This is rear tank on 34 mkll, #1472. There is no inspection port on this tank. Any solutions or suggestions on how to purge the tank of the sludge. All appreciated. Thx.
Stewart Napoleon
Desiree, OGYC
Greenwich, CT
#11
Main Message Board / Black Sludge in fresh water tank b
October 27, 2014, 05:44:40 AM
Catalina 34 mkll, #1472. Rear water tank has black sludge or algae that is plugging fresh water filter. Any ideas on how to clean tank? There is no inspection port on this rear tank. Think Peggy Hall wrote about it, but she is now retired. Any suggestions or experiences aprreciated.
Stewart Napoleon
Desiree, OGYC (Greenwich, CT)
Hull # 1472
#12
Main Message Board / Black Sludge in fresh water tank
October 26, 2014, 03:58:24 PM
Tried to pump out rear fresh water tank for seasonal decommissioning. No flow. Pump running, but no water at any outlet. Checked the fresh water pump filter on top of the ShurFlo. Never saw such gook before. Black Brown soft sludge or algae. Cleaned and replaced the little filter 5 times. Each time it clogged with the nasty. Finally let the tank run out into the bilge, by passing the pump and filter. Worked long enough to get the pink stuff into tank and piping. Now, any suggestions on how to clean tank free of sludge before Spring. There's no access port on that tank. I think Peggy Hall may have written on this, but I cannot find the article and she is now retired. Appreciate any suggestions or remedies. Thanks all.
Stewart Napoleon
Desiree, Catalina 34 mkll, #1472
Old Greenwich YC
Greenwich, CT
#13
Just had the mast unstepped and stepped for some maintenance at the top. Rigger reported that 2 turnbuckes were FROZEN on the bottom threaded studs. Never happen, not on my boat. So I went to look at the turnbuckles. I never saw this before. Looks like a solid bronze rod threaded each end with a slash in the center. Can't find anything that even looks like, smells like or quacks like in any catalogue. Any body know anything about these? I am sure they were OEM equipment. Thanks all.
BTW: I replaced the 2 frozen with open turnbuckles and replace the rest ASAP.
Stewart Napoleon
Desiree, OGYC
#1472
#14
Main Message Board / Re: Anchor size
April 28, 2013, 08:23:38 AM
After lot's of study and converstions I installed:

Rocna  34#
34' 1/4 Chain
250' 9/16" Twist Nylon

Everything works well. Only problem is Windlass has only rope gypsy. Means you end up hoisting anchor and chain manually. That's 70 lbs.

Now you know why I am partial to places with installed moorings.

Rgds,
#15
Did it last year. Take long electrical fish and start from forward end of boom. I used a thin 1/8" messenger first, then attached and pulled through the 5/16 or 3/8 for the 2nd Reefing line. Pay close attention to where the line will lead back to cockpit. I had to switch the spinnaker halyard and the turning block at the base of the mast to be control from the cockpit. Very DIY do-able. Good Luck.