Menu

Show posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Show posts Menu

Messages - Wayne

#1
I went with a new vertically battened main several years ago.  The good: the sail just looks right!  The Zen of sailing and all . . . The bad: my battens are full height of the sail, so dropping the sail is awkward . . . the battened sail needs to be laid out on the side deck and over the stern as the sail is lowered.  Maybe the battens come apart for an easier 'drop'?  I'm not sure.  Were I doing serious cruising I might not be so happy, but for my day sailing profile I like mine!  In terms of furling in and out, no difference.  The battens are thin enough that they have never been a problem.  When reefing, you will want to have a batten either in or out, not ever halfway.
#2
I too am a tall guy (6' 3 1/2").  I fit ok in the v berth (fortunately my wife is on the short side so my feet get all of the head of the v).  I can stand upright only under the hatch in the salon and under the companionway hatch, so that is where I hang out when standing.  Most of the spaces are a little petite for me to fit into comfortably--I'm kind of all arms and legs.  Despite all that, it is a great boat.  I like it enough that I completely gutted the head back to hull and bulkheads and rebuilt, pushing the shower seat further back into its corner, pushing the toilet outboard, and rotating the sink counterclockwise.  Oh yes, I lowered the floor about 1 1/2" too.  Still wish the spaces were bigger, but at boat shows, etc. I haven't seen another boat that even remotely inspires me to pull out my checkbook (I really don't want to go to a much bigger boat).  Systems are simple and easy to troubleshoot and repair.  Sails great.  Looks great.  Handles lots of wind really well.  For light air needs an A-sym to move well.  The 34 really has a lot going for it!
#3
I have an Ev too, and it works well.  I also have a rudder sensor.  I know that when I'm under sail in high winds on occasion my wheel will rotate through an adjustment of more than 10 degrees (gust from a different direction, etc) and certainly so when I auto tack.  As I recall, I'm set to 'sail'.  There are way more than three adjustments to deal with . . . do you have an owner's manual?  You should find several settings there.  Also, by my recollection not only did I need to do a 'swing the compass' thing to set mine up but I also needed to do some calibration runs whereby I ran a reciprocal course a few times so that the thing could properly program itself. 
Good luck!
#4
Main Message Board / Re: Bow-sprit installation
December 08, 2018, 08:15:07 AM
Hopefully a picture is attached!  I want to repeat the importance of having some sort of bobstay to support the anchor roller; the attachment to my anchor roller doesn't really show but it is there.
#5
Main Message Board / Re: Bow-sprit installation
December 05, 2018, 03:50:19 PM
I did a permanent sprit for my code 0; had it fabricated in SS.  Basically SS tubing, its foot (aft) bolted down to the deck in front of the anchor locker, mid point bolted to the anchor roller.  A bobstay (big turnbuckle) going from the bottom of the anchor roller down to the bottom bolt of the stemhead fitting.  For a code 0 I think the bobstay is really important--the loads become pretty amazing.
#6
Main Message Board / Re: Is the c34 right for us?
April 16, 2018, 04:11:11 PM
I have a mk II and have frequently had six or seven people out for a day sail.  The 'captain's perch' seats over the transom really make it work.  Two people fit there, totally out of the way, and one at the wheel.  No matter where the other three might sit Murphy's law kicks into play . . . someone is occupying the space where someone else needs access to a winch, locker, etc.  But it really does all work out pretty well.
When I bought my boat it was kind of a leap of faith that I was making a good choice.  After a month of getting to know her I realized how fortunate I was with my choice!  Yes we owners might be a little prejudiced regarding our boats, but it is because our boats have met our needs so well.
#7
Mark's detailed post just gave me an 'a-ha!' moment.  My main went in and out like clockwork, until about the time I moved my topping lift permanently to my mast.  I have a boom kicker.  Likely the end of my boom is hanging a little bit lower than it had been when my topping lift was in place.  I'm sure Mark is right on about keeping the pull in the foot of the sail.
#8
I've had the same problem.  In my case, an extra fold of sail cloth comes out the slot along with the unfurling sail; affects the last turn or two.  I make sure that I'm dead into the wind, and motor as fast as I can when unfurling.  Having the main flogging as vigorously as I can helps a lot.  Also, I found that shortcuts when putting the sail away (like in my case rolling it up while off the wind) pretty much guarantees a problem when next unfurling.
The good news is that it rolls in like a charm!
#9
I had an asymmetrical set up for several years utilizing a second bale that I installed forward of the existing one.  The setup worked ok with the rolled up asymmetrical 'living' inside the bow pulpit.  A problem that I had was that the two sails were too close together and whichever sail was rolled up interfered with the airflow of the sail in use--inside telltales didn't function.  I had a short sprit built, similar to the one in the pictures on this thread.  Works well.
I also installed a sort of funky bobstay consisting of a large turnbuckle attached to the bottom of the anchor roller with the other end tied into the bottom bolt of the stainless stemhead strap.  If attaching to the anchor roller I would consider this extra 'insurance' support.
#10
I too have a newish main with vertical battens; mine is made by Hood Sails.  I have no problems with my in mast furler.  Having some roach and being able to have twist in my main again is great!  I don't know about others, but my original in mast main needed to have the leech fully closed--tightened down like a drum--or my speed dropped noticeably.  The down side to my battens is that the main is really a pain to lower.  My battens are full length, and so the foot of the sail needs to be laid down along the side deck and coaming as the sail is brought down.
#11
Main Message Board / Re: Refinishing Grabrails
April 20, 2017, 03:58:58 PM
I just love lots of beautifully finished teak . . . on my neighbor's boat!
#12
Main Message Board / Re: SELLING... help
February 20, 2017, 02:21:02 PM
C34s are a popular boat on SF Bay, and sell rather quickly there.  Moss Landing requires prospective Bay Area buyers to go driving.  Coming into spring is the perfect time to be selling; to move it quickly I'd get it to a broker on the Bay.  Either way, you are paying for a slip, so renting one where it is most likely to sell would be good. 
Just my nickel's worth . . .
#13
I have had a both a sock and new a continuous line furler, and like Clay says the amount of work was about the same.  Both have been efficient and effective.  The big difference for me is being able to set it up and break it down at the dock.  Once it is up it stays up the whole day and it is there for immediate use whenever needed.  For me not needing to run back and forth to the foredeck, nor to put it up and take it down more than once makes it my preference.
#14
I had a similar problem that traced to the steering pedestal.
#15
I added a simple bobstay to counteract the upward pull of a spinnaker.  I bolted an attachment point for a turnbuckle to the bottom bolt of the stainless bow fitting.  A longish (12"? 14"?) turnbuckle runs from this point upward and forward and is bolted into the bottom of the anchor roller (there was even a hole there already!).  Very simple, very seffective.  I have a code 0 so the force (both upward and sidewise) are pretty great.  I've observed the stainless roller/fiberglass deck joint when sailing and when tensioning my halyard.  Rock solid.