Topics

Footloose is being soda blasted this week.  The plan is to apply VC17.  I would like some input on barrier coating.  There has never been any barrier coat on this boat.  I am very sure that no prep was ever done before the PO applied the initial bottom paint as where it has peeled the gel coat shines.  I know that I need to apply at least one coat of Interprotect as a primer.  Would others go ahead and apply a full barrier coating of 3-4 more coats or just the one?  I should add that the boat has no blisters and is on the hard more than in the water due to the short northern sailing season and is in fresh water.  Thanks!

I am stripping my winches, cleaning and greasing and reassembling.  I had a great deal of difficulty removing the port side spindle.  When it finally came out I discovered that the splines were deformed/galled.  I do not know how this could have happened.  Looking at the size of the teeth it appears that it would take an excessive amount of force to do this.  I believe I can salvage the winch by machining the deformed material off.  I did score the bearing surface when removing the shaft so I will have to hone it to at least take the edges off.  Has anyone else has this happen?  Could not find anything on a search.

I have an opportunity to buy a rebuilt Martec Folding Prop.  It is 14 in dia and 14 degree pitch.  Looking for feedback.

Another victim of the broken search function.

It is past time to have the bottom stripped and apply barrier coat and new paint.  I am considering having the bottom soda blasted as it appears to be faster, cheaper and better than grinding or chemical strippers.  There were a few post about this a couple of years ago, some positive, some negative.  I am just wondering want the experience has been since then and what to look out for.  Like so many things I am sure the operator experience plays a big role.

I still have the original traveler and am having bearings getting jambed between the car and the track.  This happened today while out with guests so I didn't have the opportunity to take it apart.  I have done a couple of searches but couldn't find anything.  I am assuming that the bearings are so worn that they are coming out of the races.  Does anyone know what size these are so I can get replacements on the way to the boat tomorrow?  I know it is time for the upgrade but would like to use the current traveler until it arrives.  One of my friends ordered one and it took about a month to arrive.  Not much time left for sailing here in Vermont.

I just received my hump hose.  Last fall I remove the piece of rigid exhaust hose by cutting it and leving the exhaust riser in place.  Can I get the hump hose in without removing the exhaust riser?  This is more of a planning question than anything.  In otherwords; is this a 10 minute install with lots of KY jelly or a couple of hours in the aft birth?

I am in the process of replacing my fuel lines.  I have looked but can not find the size of the injector return lines.  They look fairly small.  These are the lines that go between the injectors.  Is this something I can get at the auto parts store or do I go to the Kubota dealer.

One of the DC rocker switches on my panel is acting up.  I have looked at Seawards on line catalog but can't find them.  Does anyone know if these are still available as I am sure they are now obsolete.  I have tried Radio Shack but they are more or less out of the parts business.  No other electronics places in this neck of the woods.  My panel has the 3/4x1 switches and is sealed with silicone.  I guess I should ask if these can be removed individually?

I know a panel upgrade would be worthwhile but I am trying to make this one last another year or two.

The boating regulations on Lake Champlain require that I remove/discontect my mascerator as there are to be no means of overboard discharge of the holding tank.  My plan is to put a plug in the fitting on the tank and remove the mascerator.  I will put it in storage for the next owner if that day comes.  Does anyone know what the thread size is so the I can have the proper plug on hand when I start?   

Has anyone used Gorilla Glue for teak repairs?  I am looking for feed back either positive or negative.  I have used it for repairs on some tile in a shower and it has been holding for about a year without any signs of letting go. The stuff seems very stong.  My only concern is if the oil in teak or in the acetone used to get the oil level down would do something to the chemistry of the glue.

I just changed the transmission fluid on my boat.  I was shocked when I found less that 1/2 pint of fluid that was almost black.   :shock:I have no way to tell how long it has been this was as the boat is new to me as of this past spring.  What are the thoughts as to how robust this transmission is?  It is my understanding that the manufacturer is out of business.  I have filled is full for winter storage I didn't see any leaks when I was there, but will check again next week.  There were no chips in the fluid and the transmission worked well this summer.  Also, are there any good methods af draining this down in the spring.  I have been thinking about placeing a tube in the fillerhole that is the same length as the full mark on the dipstick and then sucking or siphoning it out until it stops.

Thanks for all the help on my previous post.

I am in the middle of upgrading my electrical system.  I have put in a relay for the glow plugs and put in the wiring harness upgrade and re-wired the charging circuit.  I also found a high resistance short in the battery charger of all things.  There has been major improvement but I am looking to make it better

I am looking for some feedback on the multi-stage voltage regulators and are they worth the money.  I know this probably comes down to haw I want to spend my money, in the end.

For the most part our boat sits on a mooring and gets to a dock only for short periods or if we spend a night at a marina when we are cruising.  The motor is run for 10-15 minutes while we get out of the mooring field and out into the wind.  After that it is battery power to run instruments and radios, probably 2 amps at most.  We sail for several hours and then hopeful start the motor to tie up at the mooring.

I have a high output alternator and a heavy duty voltage regulator that aren't installed yet.  I am looking to get lots of amps into my battery in a short period of time.  The question  is will this regulator upgrade make a significant difference?  The shore power battery chargers make a difference so I would assume this wound also but I would like some reassurance

Bought hull 608 about 2 months ago.  I have replaced the batteries as the ones in the boat were six years old.  I thought that there might be a short in the system but after going through things last night, I don't believe so.  The electrical system is stock and I have order the wiring harness upgrade and connectors.  I don't have any battery busters on the boat, fridge or radar, so I am wondering if the stock alternator will suffice.  We like to cruise on weekends and a week once or twice a summer.  I am on Lake Champlain Vermont.  Will the upgrade help or eliminate my problem?  From the appearance of the cannectors there look to be plenty of opportunity for voltage loss.  I am also looking at replacing the panel this winter.  Any help would be appreciated.