Topics

I noticed that that my old Sherwood pump is weeping water through the weep holes. Yea it's the old one with 6 face plate screws has seen its last days. I researched this site and decided on the Oberdorfer N202M-15 for replacement. Parts and Pumps online had it for 267.00 + 16 surcharge, for a grand total of 283.00 with free shipping. Looks like a straight swap out with hose barbs fitting and flange plate configuration matching that of the old Sherwood. It did not come with a flange to engine gasket. (It did have the upgraded neoprene impeller gasket) My question, is this gasket necessary as I don't see this as sealing in water? Curious as to the boards thoughts on this.

Going forward with removal and maintenance of the exhaust riser. Lots of great information on this site so I felt confident with this first time project. Top two flange nuts came off no problem using 9/16 ratchet with 6 sided socket. As for the bottom nut I used a 9/16 inch box wrench. Next time I would use a ratcheting 6 sided box wrench. The nut was completely seized to the stud but the stud ended up turning out so I was able to remove it fairly easily. I ordered new studs from Catalina Direct. Are there any techniques to screwing the new stud in to the manifold? I saw in a discussion about putting two nuts on the end of the stud to act as a head to turn stud in. Are the threads treated with anti-seize, or something like WD40? Then when putting the flange nuts back on is something like locktite used? At first look the riser looks in good shape but the gasket is well past due for replacement. Also replacing black muffler hose with a new hump hose. Thanks for your input.

Purchased a nearly new main sail at Bacon Sails in Annapolis last year at end of the season. Was told to attach the sail slides with 1/2 inch tubular webbing due to the full batten arrangement. Went to SailRite tutorials and proceeded without too much difficulty. The grommets were already installed, so it was just a matter of stitching which proceeded straightforward. My question has to do with the grommet closest to the headboard. How far can the highest grommet be from the headboard?. mine is around 25 inches (grommets came with the sail that way). The SailRite tutorial started from scratch and discussed installing the grommets starting an inch or so below the head board and proceeding from there. I'd like to get the sail on and try it out, meanwhile purchasing the grommet kit waiting another week or so. Any thoughts on flying the main with this arrangement.

I am curious to know if any boat owners removed the plastic sleeves that cover the shrouds. They are approx 5 ft high and around 1.25 thick. Not sure I like them, hides the rigging and if they are mostly cosmetic, I'm thinking of removing them. Any thoughts?

Apparently there is a little black tab on the inside door handle of the head. Didn't know there was a lock on the head door... Never needed one. I managed to bump it and voila, locked myself out of the head. Its quite a secure mechanism, door knob unpick-able, hinges buried. fortunately i remembered the engine access door before i tore the door up with the pry bar. had to remove the alternator to make room and my monkey arm was barely long enough. Think of movie U571. I did take opportunity to inspect belt and clean up any corrosion and grease etc. Managed to unlock it and all in all a beautiful weekend. 

What is the thickest sound proofing foam used in the engine compartment. That would be for a mark 1 m25xp. I see many using 1 inch foam. defender has a 1 1/4 to a 1 1/2 for only a few dollars more. Was going to order the 1 inch but if anyone had success with thicker I may give that a go.

Looking to replace my mainsheet. Currently have a 7/16 line with an eyesplice loop that attaches to the block on the boom. I've seen some loops use a thimble. Can the main be tied off with a bowline or other such knot? I'm thinking using a halyard hitch much like fastening the main halyard. Looking from ordering from Fisheries Supply- Samson lines. Any thoughts?

I'm looking for current information on CNG tank refill and certification 2018. I'm pretty clear on building an adapter if necessary since there doesn't seem to be any tank exchanges around. Spoken with several marinas, Haven Harbor and Georgetown, they are not doing this anymore. I'm not sure where to look for someone who would do certifications and was wondering if anyone is doing this in the Chesapeake area.

I am looking for some input from those who store their dinghy upside down on the fore deck. What is the max length of your dinghy, what brand, type i.e. air deck, rib . I am looking to purchase an air deck for it's weight and capacity considerations and I'm trying to get an idea of what length would fit without compromising the fore deck too much. This would be our first dinghy so I'm a little unsure as to what size will fit up there. I believe the transom to peak length would be critical in the determination but that is not listed in the specs so I'll ask for some practical info from the board before I start making any calls to the manufacturers.

Steve

Came across a new real time weather website for those of us in Rock Hall Maryland.

http://www.belcak.com/

Steve

Our alternator charging wire on Georgia Peach is a direct connection from alternator to main house bank. I wish to fuse this and reviewed Jim Moes schematic. http://www.c34.org/projects/images/CatalinaElectricalschematic.pdf I see he has fused the wire close to the battery. I was reading Nigel Calders electrical text and it said the fusing should be close the the power source i.e. 7 inches and that technically the alternator is the power source. I was wondering if anyone has fused this circuit in the engine compartment near the alternator?

Inspected my electrical system last weekend. Removed electricians tape from lugs only to find poorly crimped and loose connections, and corrosion. Decided to go over entire system and replace as necessary, fuse where needed, and crimp and solder. I've reviewed many of the posts and projects on subject but still have a few questions. I'm convinced of the merits of "solder and crimp" and the question is:

1.) after removing insulation on wire and exposing bare wire, is the wire soldered first then inserted into lug and then crimped, or crimp the lug onto the wire, then solder so tin wicks up under lug (similar to soldering a copper pipe to a fitting). Then use adhesive shrink wrap.

2.) is 150 amp fuse sufficient for protecting the 4 gauge wire used for the starting circuit. (M25XP)
3.) Also going to run a dedicated line directly to starter with on/off selector switch. Start battery is located in forward compartment in dinette. Using 2 gauge which about 10 feet is supplied already, is 150 amp fuse sufficient?

Thank You for any input- Steve

What a wonderful resource this site has been. I enjoy browsing and reading the various topics. Something I've come across and not quite clear on is the idea of a self bleeding system. From what I've gleaned, the bleed valve should be opened a half turn to allow a fuller fuel flow through the system thereby "polishing" the fuel through the 2 micron filter. I know there is a bleed valve on the Racor, and one on the engine mounted filter. I'm assuming neither one of these are the ones to open. And am thinking there is a third valve somewhere on the line. Engine is a M25XP. Any thoughts? Thanks. Steve

Needed to replace outhaul sheaves and this is where I found replacements.
http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=143
Catalina Direct Product #Z1923 Sheave Wire C-25 C-27 Masthead 1-15/16" OD x 13/32 Thick, 5/16" Pin. $7.95
This is an exact match.
Did not find any postings on this and thought this would be useful.

Steve

I am trying to locate a tachometer for replacement. Datcom Instrument Company, 0-4000 RPM's with hour meter. My engine is Universal M25Xp. I am looking for this model so I can copy the old settings to the new one and install. I've checked various catalogs IE West Marine and Internet to no avail.
Steve Georgia Peach #349

I recently replaced my fuel tank with a new aluminum one from Catalina. Any advise on mounting? I used stainless steel lag bolts to screw it to the plywood deck. Is there a concern for corrosion between dissimilar metals? Also I reinstalled the brass valve and nipple which was on previous tank, same concern of corrosion?. Any thoughts?
Steve