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Std rig measurements, 87 vintage.

3 sets, 1 Dacron and  2 UK Tape Drive.  I can get hard dates, but the tape drives are 2002 and 2006, Dacron 1999?  All good condition for cruising.  The Tape Drives could be "club racing".  I tend to replace every 5 years.  Carbon Fiber Asym "sprit" (goes in bow roller and extends 12" in front of bow to extend tack".  Clutches, double and a single Lewmar.  Random blocks.  LED cabin lights (red and white, t-wedge and twist).  Old halyards.

The sails I would like $250 for the Dacron set, $500 for the Tape Drives.  All are 155% Genoas.  The Dacron main is full batten.  Delivery within 2hrs of Detroit can be included, or I have family in Chicago, so if you are along I-94 or close, we could work something out.  The rest I can ship.  Send me questions and I can send you answers/pictures.  Joel

First, I searched and read the exhaustive thread on the Xantrex.  This is not about that.  My question is userfeedback based.  Thanks.

I am replacing the 20+ year old "Promariner".  In researching, I came across the PD2120 Inteli-Power by Progressive Dynamics.  It looks like it will fit the bill.  Has anyone seen one in person?  Using one currently?  This is what I am looking for:

1, Three (this has 4, one called storage) stage full automatic, I don't want my new batteries cooked.  I did get 7 years out of the previous ones, but I think I killed them last summer.
2, reliable
3, not junk, see 2

For me I think it is almost a done deal, but will take comments.  I really like that is is made in the USA, in MI in fact.  If I have an issue, I will drive it over and wait until it is fixed :-)

The 20amp might seem small, but I am always near shore power when there is extended depletion and will mainly use it to charge 2 T105's in series.

The "storage" mode has me intrigued as well as the variable fan.  So, does anyone have one?  Thanks, Joel

Has anyone installed a cell antenna/booster on the boat?  Did you mount the antenna at the top of the mast or someplace else?  I am looking for thoughts/suggestions.  I think I am going with the Wilson "Sleek" 815226.  It gets good reviews.  Only thing is that it has a "mini mount" antenna.  While I could put in on the cabin top, I don't think that would help much.  The folks at the 3Gstore suggested another antenna with a single cable run.  However when I drop the mast, that becomes a chore of retrieving the cable and then re-installing it.  Not to mention takes the price from $90 for the unit to $200 for a "marine" antenna and 50' of cable.  Thanks, Joel

Hey, so after exhaustive searches of the message board, it seems that Honda 1000 or 2000 series generators are the way to go.  What I did not find however was conclusions to mounting/usage/running locations.  Seems that (for storage) some put in the port locker, other in the rear, some in the cockpit?  Running them I only found a couple of references and they seemed to be in front of the mast.  There were a couple of mentions of building "boxes" with insulation, but I never did see that these came to fruition.  I see where Ron runs his on a knee pad and that in the bow is way to prone to vibration.  This is what I want to do and if you all could help me out with pros and cons or be blunt and tell me I am way of base that would be helpful.  The local Honda dealer couldn't quite grasp it, more into RV then marine applications.

I want to build a box that I will mount either on the swim ladder and to the rail or on the starboard side of the stern pulpit.  The box I am thinking will be vented on the back panel with the top hinged as well as a "door" for the pull cord.  An option I was thinking of was a "bathroom" fan/vent that I would plug into the second outlet, may be overkill, haven't decided.  This is where the generator will live.  I will secure it in the box and don't want to mess with it.  The main use will be during racing to charge the batteries.  Then when cruising to keep topped up (less power cruising then racing).

So the questions are:

1.  Has anyound done this or do you just run them exposed? Exhaust is hot, does the plastic stay coolish?
2.  Do any of you run your generator while under way?(this will be the main time it is run)  If so do you have it gimballed or does it work OK?
3.  How do you have it connected?  15amp single cord to a 30amp converter into the shorepower connector? Special dual 15amp cords to single 30amp connector into the shorepower(I saw this on an RV site, not sure if it would work)  Hard wired directly into the charger?  DC charging cable and bypass the charger?
4.  Are these OK with the foam padding to absorb the vibration?  Does that impede air flow?

This is going to be my spring project.  Installation mid May and test in June.  Any and all feedback is appreciated.  thanks, Joel

I have had the great pleasure of putting a new M25XP-B in my '87 MkI.  My mechanic (yes I am using My as I have had a relationship with him for awhile) gave me two choices last Thursday, one he could try and put a new rod and bearing in #2 or he could install a new engine.  This was all two days before the BYC Mac race which I already had great resources involved.  I said "rod and bearing" he called me back about an hour later with "Sorry, if you want to race on Saturday we need to put a new engine in, the re-build can't happen".  So I put a new engine in.  Now I have a diesel engine in my garage with a perfectly good tranny, heat exchanger, injectors....bad #2 cylinder/rod/bearing.  New engine $8500 plus new control panel, which by the way doesn't include a fuel gauge? Plus labor.  Grand total just over 11K.  Engine place told me they would give me $300 for the old engine, I told them to get bent.  I have seen re-built for $4500ish.  So the question is, do you all want parts, the engine the way it is, or a professional re-built engine?  I have the shipping crate and it basically would be $200 shipped to a terminal.

Hi,

Can anyone tell me exactly or a really educated guess, as to how much room is needed below the rudder for removal?  I have done a search and there are plenty of "you need to dig a hole" or "you need to have it lifted/in the sling" type answers, one that said the rudder was 7' from top to bottom and another that said 6'?  I have an '87 Mk I with a standard 5'7" draft keel.  I am in a cradle up on blocks and have 24" underneath the rudder.  Below that is asphalt, so digging is not an option.  Thanks, Joel