Topics

I've added a Dickenson P9000 heater to the port side salon bulkhead and I added the new propane tank to the stern rail (with a new solenoid valve and regulator.  Now it's finally time that I ran the new propane line.  Has anyone mounted a heater in a similar location and/or run a new fuel line to a heater?  Kent at Catalina made a suggestion of "running the line aft along the port side behind the head and below the fuel tank", but I thought I would see if anyone had any experience in this area?

Thanks,

Rick

I've finally gotten around to replacing the drawer under the v-berth with 2 louvered doors but this involves glassing in a piece of fiberglass to complete the center section.  I understand the part that I can use a piece of what I just cut out to match the rest of the gelcoat, but that still leave a line (top and bottom) that needs to be touched up.  Does anyone know the color code of the interior gelcoat is?  Is there a source for a gelcoat paste like Spectrum makes for the hull?  Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Rick

Seems like I saw this somewhere but I've searched the posts and cannot find it.  I'm installing a new Raritan PH-II and replacing the hose to the holding tank.  Seems like I saw that a good idea is to install a 1 1/2" ball valve so you can close off the hose from the holding tank when working on the head.  A great idea, but can I use a PVC ball valve from Home Depot or do I need to buy something from the jewelry store (i.e. West Marine)?  Does it need to be a bronze valve?

Cheers,

Rick

OK, the C34 is finally on the hard and getting bottom paint.  The cutless bearing is shot, so I need to replace it.  Any suggestions on getting the flange off on the transmission side so I can remove the shaft?  I've removed the bolts holding it to the transmission and removed the two set screws. The darn thing just won't budge!

Also I noticed that of the 4 bolts holding the flange to the transmission, 3 are 3/8" and 1 is 1/2".  Seems like that's a sure way to induce vibration or does that offset the 2 set screws?

Central Texas is over 100 degrees today and the inside feels like a hot-house.

Thanks for any help.

Rick

I finally purchased a Dickinson P9000 propane heater for the cabin and a #6 aluminum propane tank that I'd like to mount on the stern rail (the tank,not the heater).  What I cannot seem to find here is what rules or guidelines to follow when installing the new propane system.  I'd like to remove the old tank and propane locker and just have the #6 tank for both the heater and the stove.  Can the regulators be installed inside the boat?  What about the solenoid switch?   The only rule I found was that you want to have one continuous propane line inside the boat.  One line to each device and no breaks or fittings inside.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Cheers,

Rick

I made it to the Austin Boat show yesterday.  I didn't expect much but the only thing worth looking at was a 2010 Beneteau 34.  Not much headroom and seems really small inside.  It made me very happy I have a Catalina 34.

My 2 cents,

Rick

I don't think I posted this before, so....

I believe you can never have too much power while out on the hook...  I added two 40w solar panels to go with the 100w on the stern arch/davits.  The new panels are BP panels I got on eBay.  

http://cgi.ebay.com/BP-340J-SOLAR-PANEL-40W-12VDC-2-31Amp-NEW_W0QQitemZ270466797907QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3ef913d153

The price went up slightly but I still think it is a steal at $155 each.  I'm considering adding two more on either side of the 100w panel.

Cheers,

Rick

This follows from here "Hard Dodger":  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4760.0.html

Latest project:

The first picture is the jig I made to get the curve of the deck and hull.  The second is the template that I made using the jig.  I have finished fixing the $9 teak doors from Minney's Yacht Surplus.  Now waiting on the teak veneer.  Then, it will be time to cut some marine plywood and cover it with the veneer...

Baby steps...

Two $5 cutting boards from Ikea and some 1/4" cherry & walnut from the hardware store equals new sink covers...

Cheers,

Rick

I have been mulling over the idea of adding a bow water tank to my C34.  Catalina Direct sells a bow tank that would add another 25 gallons, but I worry about the weight that far forward.  Does anyone have any experience with a bow tank or installing one?  I think that Tom (over at the C36 site) installed one, but I cannot find any information other than a picture.

Thanks for any help,

Rick

Finally 100% done and tested last weekend.  I already wish I had a wash-down pump to keep the mud off...  It worked great and makes life much easier.

Cheers,

Rick

OK, the final fit went OK. I will need to open up the access to the motor below deck a little more, but the mounting bracket seems very secure and strong. I'm thinking after gelcoating the whole thing, I'll use 5200 rather than fiberglassing the box into the anchor well.

I'm surprised at the thickness of the anchor well.  The box and flange I made are a little thicker and the top will finish out about 1" thick.  8 stainless steel bolts hold it in place and once I add the 5200 it will be a dry/secure place for the motor...

I'm still considering cutting the corners off at about 45 degrees.  That might improve access to the anchor rode.

Now I just need the #2 cable and the foot switches...

Cheers,

Rick

The latest project.  With the advice of Mike (S/V Slacker) and Jack (S/V Mariah III), I've started to prototype a hard dodger.  We'll see how it turns out....

Cheers,

Rick

P.S.  The following link shows the details of Mike's project.  Look for the entries dated 1/2/09.

http://www.sailblogs.com/member/slacker/

And thanks to Ron Hill for the idea of the PVC propane bottle storage that you can just see on the stern-rail in the second picture...

I was thinking about adding some pad eyes to use with a safety tether (mainly for the kids on the boat).  Has anyone installed some and where?  I'm looking at under the companionway,  starboard side by the helm and maybe somewhere on the cabin top?

Cheers,

Rick

So what do you do with the teak winch handle holder you bought for $6 at Minney's, but will not fit your locking winch handles?

Why cut a couple of pieces of 3/4" teak as inserts and turn it into knife storage, naturally....

Cheers,

Rick

Not sure if this is boring everyone to tears. I always like to see what others have done to their boats, so I will share.  This solves my glass storage issue for both regular and wine glasses.  The wine glass rack was an oak piece that my boat neighbor gave me.  I used 1/4" mahogany to cover the sides and make a door on the front. The glass storage was 2 pieces of 1/4" acrylic 8"x10" and some aluminum spacers from Home Depot...

Cheers,

Rick

Just got my Christmas present for the boat.  If anyone else is interested, it is a Lewmar V1, brand new in an unopened box.  For 5/8 line and 5/16 chain.  Windlass, motor, solenoid, switch and circuit breaker.  Mine was a total of $422 plus cents with shipping and it is one heavy chunk of stainless steel.

http://www.hodgesmarine.com/Lewmar-V1-Vertical-Windlass-W-Gypsy-F-5-16-Chain-1-p/lew6671011108-138.htm

I would say this is the best deal I've seen for a good quality windlass.  Kent from Catalina Yachts has also sent me some information on mounting a windlass, which I can forward to anyone who wants to drop me a note.

Cheers,

Rick

OK, I'm trying to decide what to buy the boat for Christmas.  I have it narrowed down to a Lewmar V1 windlass or the Garhauer Traveler upgrade.  I just cannot decide.  Anyone have any feedback?  I was planning on the traveler upgrade but saw the Lewmar V1 for $599 (free shipping). Now I'm undecided....

HELP!!!!

OK, new project for the week.  I want to add some additional storage space and really like the look of the galley shelves that Catalina now installs.  My only issue is it seems too small.  I also like the idea of lots of places to grab hold when moving in the cabin.  I'm thinking I'll add a shelf 1'x4' and use a 1" stainless steel tube to support the far end.  It appears that I might just have room to drill a 1" hole between the edge of the sink and the end of the counter.  I'll add a teak block and SS round stanchion base to the overhead to support the other end.  This should be strong enough to hang on to if needed. and provide a strong support the the shelf.

The top of the shelf will be Formica with holes drilled for 1/4" pegs to keep the the dishes from sliding around (dish storage was the main purpose of the shelf idea).  I was even thinking I'll cut a piece of teak with holes in the ends (also slots) and bolts/wing nuts. Slip the teak over the top of the pegs, tighten the wing nuts and the dishes stay in place even in heavy weather... 

I'm still thinking about how to secure the other end.

Comments?

I've finally decided that I need to add an air conditioner to the boat, due to the heat of the Texas summers.  I've read the project pages and studied the forum postings.  I think the forepeak would be my best option for my Cruisair 16k btu unit but wondered it anyone might have any other suggestions, tips, hints, pictures or warnings.  Cutting holes in the boat is always something I have to plan long and hard before the first cut.

Thanks for any help.

Rick

Would anyone have a C34 logo or sailboat profile artwork suitable for having shirts embroidered?  As hot as it is here in Texas, I was thinking of having Hawaiian shirts or Mexican wedding shirts made with the C34 logo for the captain and crew...

Cheers,

Rick

A friend in SoCal has offered me a dodger frame (2 actually) which he thinks may be off a C34 or a C36.  Does anyone know the dimensions of their frame?  Also, where is the best place to attach the frame?  Just wanted to get an idea if it would work before I have him ship it.

Thanks,

Rick

On my C34 there is a missing plate on the motor cover and I have always wondered what it was or says.  I copied a image from Yachtworld.com and circled the plate.  Can someone tell me what it is?

Cheers,

Rick

I know this will not be easy to answer but every time I run the diesel I have a fairly strong smell in the cabin.  Something like the smell of a hot engine but the diesel runs at 160 degrees.  No black water in the bilge.  Aqua-lift muffler does not appear to be leaking.  I have been finding some small amounts of coolant under the motor, but other than that no signs of issues.  Motor starts right up with only a small traces of white smoke.  It just seems like a stronger odor than on my Catalina 30 with the same motor.  I was going to have the oil tested and try to trace the coolant leak. 

I guess my question would be, how strong of a motor "smell" is normal in the cabin after running the diesel?

Cheers,

Rick

The cabin and head doors needed some way to hold them open.  I tried a latch at the base of the head door, but then I was always bending to unlatch the door.  A pain in my old back!  I finally decided to mount some latches on the overhead and see how that would work.  After a week, I'd say I'm pleased with how they work. 

Just waiting on the new stainless steel cowl vents (backordered), but thought I'd share what the dorades look like after Cetol.  The African mahogany is very close to the color of the teak grab rails, but the dorades themselves are much darker.  I'll see how well they work when the cowl vents get here.  With the hot summers we get in Texas its got to help!.

Cheers,

Rick

Santa just brought me a new Tank Monitor.  I've done a search here and read the install project on the 36 site, but I was wondering where others had installed the panel.  I just cannot seem to find a good spot and I'm starting to think I'll need to make a teak box to fit so I can mount the panel on a bulkhead. The panel is 6 1/4 x 2 3/4.

Thanks for any suggestions.

Well, I still need to glue everything together and then there is the sanding and Cetol.  The last step will be to buy the low profile stainless steel vents (the old yellowed plastic vent is just to get an idea of how it will look).  I just had to share even though it's not done yet.  All things considered, I'm happy with the way they are turning out....

I decided that some of the friction I had in the main halyard was due to the different levels of the deck organizers, fairleads and rope clutches.  I added 1 inch teak under the rope clutches and the deck organizers to get everything close to the same plane as the fairleads. This was not perfect but it seems to help.

I've done the required search on this site but haven't found the answer to my question.

I've replaced the Sherwood raw water pump with an Oberdorfer (I'll now send the Sherwood to Depco to rebuild as a spare).  The Sherwood had 1/2 in threaded intake/outlets to a 90 degree elbow which had 5/8 in hose barbs on the other end.  The Oberdorfer has 3/8 threaded intake/outlets.  Does the Oberdorfer normally go from 3/8 - 5/8?  Seems odd...  Any ideas on a source for the required elbows?

I'm the proud installer of a new house bank.

Thanks for the help...

Can anyone help with a little knowledge?  I bought a used cruising spinnaker and need to order the new blocks.  I talked to Guido at Garhauer and he said to get size 40s/50s for the spinnaker crane and the tack.  He said size 60s would be best for the sheet turning blocks, but really suggested adding two additional foot blocks.  I was curious what others had installed (I did a search and read through the posts) and it looks like several people rig a block on the aft cleats (seems like an easy way to go).  What size blocks are people using and should I be ordering adjustable or snap shackles?

Cheers,

Rick

I have a chance to buy a used cruising spinnaker.  The luff is 40 and the foot is 20.  The size I've found suggested here is 43 (or 44) for the luff and 24 for the foot.  Is 40 x 20 too small?  Should I wait and try to find one a little larger?  This would not be for racing but rather just gaining more experience...

Thanks for any advice.

I'm still working on adding some new conduits under the cabin sole.  I decided to stick my digital camera into the bilge to give me some idea of what is already there.  I was somewhat surprised to see what looks like the bare end of a 2x4 and what looks like the inner liner plywood?  Is the liner cored?

Cheers

I've looked at all the topics I can find, but it's not clear to me.  What is the largest cable size that can be run through the single conduit to the starter and ground?  I know the C34 comes stock with #4 and I've see that others have pulled #2.  Is #2 the largest that will fit and has anyone run #2 or larger outside the stock conduit?

Thanks,

Rick

I hope you all won't mind one more question about my electrical upgrade.

I took the advice of most here and mounting the Truecharge vertically on the aft bulkhead under the nav table.  I'm adding a new 15 amp circuit-breaker and new # 10 wire for the AC side.  That part's no problem.  I going to use # 6 for the new wiring from the charger to the batteries.  My question is, how should I run this wire?  I can drill a hole into the hanging locker, but then where?  It seems a waste to go all the way up and back behind the electrical panel.  I see there is a hole drilled for the waste hose to run through (it would be tight to try to run the wiring next to that), so do I drill a new hole and run it through the bilge?  I hate drilling holes in the boat and just wondered what other people had done.

Thanks

I was checking on web-tv sites for a friend at my marina and I ran across the following site.  It was new to me, so perhaps some people will find it interesting.  Maybe it will help my Karma....

http://player.narrowstep.tv/assets/players/0528/launchhttp.html

Cheers

I saw this Catalina 34 on Yacht World and noticed it has two sets of spreaders.  The ad lists it as a 1992.  Is this custom?  Can I ask some of the really smart people here why you would do this?

I have the week off, so I'm trying to get a few projects done while I can.  The new Xantrex Truecharge 40+ has been ordered and is on the way.  I now need to move the starting battery to a new location.  From the projects page and other postings, it seems like the area behind the motor or else in front of the starboard water tank are the two areas described.  It also seems like under the aft berth would be hot/damp and not easy to get to...  In front of the water tank is cool/dry, easy to get to and would be a longer cable run...

Any suggestions?  Any pictures?  Any comments?

Thanks,

Rick

OK, I cannot find anything on this website and I cannot find anything on the web...  I have a Shipwright 15 battery charger behind the starboard settee (?).  It uses an a/c power cord which is plugged in at the galley outlet.  It looks like it was installed by Catalina but what the heck is it? I wonder if they had run out of real chargers and sent someone to PepBoys?  Does anyone else have one of these?

I've just added 2 6-volt golf cart batteries and will be adding 2 more next month.  I'm thinking I will switch to a Xantrex Truecharge 20+ (or 40), but I'm not sure how these are normally wired or located on a Mk-I boat.  Can anyone offer some suggestions?

Cheers

OK, I've been checking the site and doing the searches but it's time to ask the question...  My 1990 C34 is pretty much stock from Catalina.  I have done the furler upgrade to a single line (thanks Ron) and added a GPS chartplotter.  I upgraded to DSC VHF radio and installed a smaller table in the cabin.  I also added the Garhauer Rigid Boom Vang. I'm thinking I'd like to install some addition upgrades but wanted to ask others what they thought had been the best upgrades?

My list includes:

1.  Bruce Anchor and 50 ft 5/16 chain (I already have 130 ft of 5/8 NER double braid and this is second to my Fortress anchor with 200 ft of 5/8 and 30 ft 5/16 chain)
2. Marine Air Conditioning (hey, I live in Texas)
3. Xantrex Truecharge 20i charger
4. 4 Trojan Batteries for new house bank
5. New larger propane locker
6. New Garhauer Rope Clutches (triples each side, one will replace the current jam cleat for the main sheet)
7. Auto Pilot (to help when I'm single-handing)
8. Windlass
9. Mount of some kind for my 100w Solar Panel
10. AIR X Marine Wind Turbine


Comments?

I've checked all the related threads here (thanks Stu), but didn't really find anyone who has installed a second bilge pump.  I have seen several articles lately saying this was a good idea, but I was wondering about the installation.  I asked Catalina about the stringers in the bilge and if I could drill through them to connect a new hose going to a new stern thru-hull.  The response is as follows: "The timbers / stringers were made of wood back then.  They do stiffen the hull and provide support for hull liner.  We do notch them and remove sections in areas for hose and wiring to pass them.  I would look to see if there is room to go outboard and then aft to avoid cutting holes in the timbers.  If you have to add the holes I would go with a 1 5/8" hole saw and then add some layers of glass to seal and reinforce the timbers where the hose passes.".

Has anyone here added a second bilge pump and if so how did you run the outflow hose?

Thanks,

Rick

I have a deck crack that runs in a half circle in front of the forward portion of the metal deck plate at the rear of the cockpit (that just calls out for a picture).  Opening the deck plate shows the top of the rudder post, which allows access for the emergency tiller.  The post looks centered in the hole, but the "lip" is wider on the forward section and it appears that this is why it's cracking (too large an unsupported area at a spot where everyone stands while at the helm).  My thought is that I need to glass in some type of support on the forward edge, but I wondered if anyone else had seen this problem?

Cheers,

Rick

OK, since I read the posting by Jim Price (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=2707.msg14113#msg14113) I've been worried about my "zincs" being used in freshwater.  Everything I've found says he was right and I need to get aluminum anodes for freshwater, but so far I have not found a source of the anode on the shaft or in the heat exchanger.  Can anyone help? 

Since I moved to Texas I have not been able to bring all my tools out from California.  Therefore, I decided to ask my airline pilot cousin in New Hampshire if he might give me a hand and build a new table for me in a slightly smaller size.  The following picture is the result and does not do it justice!  The darn thing is beautiful.  3/4 inch teak plywood with teak molding around the edge.  The compass center is walnut, maple, mahogany and ash.  I've asked him to give me a write-up which I'll submit to projects after I get some pictures of the table installed.  Damn, now I really owe him....

I noticed last weekend that the last sail slide (slug) at the head of my main was broken.  All other slides are attached using plastic shackles, but this one was attached using a piece of 1/2 inch webbing which was stitched in several places.  I'm thinking the new slide should be attached the same way, but I'm not sure how the webbing was stitched together.  When cutting the old stitching it looked like each wrap of the webbing was stitched back on itself.  Does anyone know of directions of how to do this?

Over the weekend I finally installed the 15inch flat panel monitor I bought for my Catalina.     Using the video processor from Viewsonic, it can now act as a TV or a laptop monitor (playing dvds or acting as a chart plotter).  I tried plugging it into the AC power and everything works great.  I then checked the power supplies and both are outputting 12 volts.  Can I just wire both systems into my boat's 12-volt system?  I tried asking Viewsonic but they have retreated behind the "that will void your warranty" wall.  I did try pointing out that the warranty has expired from both, but that was no help! It seems like this would work, but I still view electricity in the same realm as "black magic".  Cheers.

I still looking for a good used headsail but now finally have a decent amount of money to pay for it, thanks Santa!  Has anyone had any experience (good or bad) with any of the used sail dealers?

Well, I had two weeks off here in Texas and I decided to remove all the teak on the deck and re-finish it all with Cetol Light.  Not a project I would want to do again soon, but I'm glad I took the time.  My question is; Does everything get bedded with polysulfied?  The teak pieces beside the sliding hatch don't look like they had any bedding, but there was a lot of "dirt" underneath which could collect moisture.  My guess is that everything should be bedded just to keep the water out of the screw holes and out of the deck-core...

And a curse on whoever put the eyebrow pieces on with silicon!   

OK, at the risk of showing my ignorance I just have to ask a question or two.  On my Catalina 30 the icebox drained into the bilge.  As the ice melted the bilge pump would pump the water out and all was right with the world.  Now I have a Catalina 34 which has a foot pump to pump the water out of the icebox.  Since my foot pump doesn't work for ####e, it has made using ice an ordeal.

My question is, why can't the icebox just drain into the bilge?  If that's not possible for some reason, can I replace the foot pump with an electric one?