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This is what I did with the drawer.  It fit very well with about 3" space between it and the original outlet.  I plugged in a surge suppessor strip, and fastened it to the top.  It is now much easier to plug things in.  The top of the drawer collects odds and ends like before but the partitioned drawer holds many useful items. 

I plan on installing a Federal Flexible Shaft Coupling.  They say to align the engine with the old solid coupling first and then install the flex coupling.  My boat is not in the water.  I planned on launching with the old coupling and then waiting a couple days to do the engine alignment and then installing the new flange.  My problem is how do I install the new flange with the boat in the water.  I cannot push it on by hand and there is no room to pound it on.  I believe I can install it now by pounding the end of the shaft and forcing it into the flange up against the transmission, but that does not help me when in the water.  I must be missing something!  Is there some easy gear puller/pusher available?  Should I simply install it now and align it the best I can?

Also, do other people using this coupling have anykind of bonding strap installed across it? 

Ken

I am learing about engines and transmissions.  I have an M35B engine.  It has a spec label on it of HBW-100.  The transmission plate says model ZF 10M.  Am I correct in that these are different names for the same transmission?  The transmission also shows "A=1.79  B=1.86".  I figure these are gear ratios, but what exactly are A and B?

Thanks for any help,
Ken

The only headsail I have is a 135%.  I would like to have something around 90% for heavier winds.  I have a quote from Cruisers Direct Sails which is probably a good deal.  However, The Sail Warehouse has ready made storm sails for half the price.  Their largest storm jib has luff-30', leech-23.6', foot-12.6' (145 sq ft).  This sail would not get a lot of use and we are cruising not racing.  Would sailing performance take a big hit by doing this?  Does anyone have the dimensions for a jib in the 80-90% range? The storm jib sail area is only 145 sq ft, which is equivalent to about a 50% jib?  Should I go with the Cruisers Direct sail?

Ken     

I have only sailed in areas covered by charts in nice neat booklets.  For this summer I have to buy full size paper charts.  Before I start folding and labeling them I thought I would check to see how other people handled them.  Do you fold them?  Any special way?  Where is a good place to store them?

Thanks,
Ken

There is a small inline filter at the inlet to the fuel lift pump on the M35B engine.  The original filter leaked slightly from day one.  It took me a while to find it.  The seam in the casing of the filter looked to be bad and my broker said they would check into it.  While installing the new one I figured out what had happened.  I tightened it too tight and the filter casing rubbed up against the bottom of the pump.  I did not notice this at first and tightened a couple more turns.  This broke the seal of that seam in the filter and thus the leaking.  The original installer must have done the same thing.  Has anyone else had this problem?  Do I simply not tighten it as much.  Can I put teflon tape on this joint?  I thought I saw somewhere in the manual not to use tape on these joints close to the pump and injectors.

Thanks,
Ken 

I have the M35B engine in my 2005  C34 MK II.  When starting, the key is turned to the second postion, all the way to the right.  This starts the glow plugs.  While I am holding the key in this position, is the fuel being pumped?  Does it simply go through the return lines back to the tank?  In the first (start) position, is the fuel pumping just the same, only without the glow plugs on?  If I want to bleed the fuel lines, do I simply turn the key to the first position and look for fuel wherever I want it to bleed?

Ken

In the "towel bar in head" thread, Ron Hill mentions an alternator door.  I have a 2005 MK II and would like to know what this door is?  I plan on installing a starting battery and see no easy way to get at the wiring on the starter.  I was wondering if installing an access door from the head to engine compartment was feasible?  Did previous boats have this door?

Thanks,
Ken

In an earlier post (electrical upgrade), I wrote that I was planning on installing a separate AGM start battery to go with the two original 4D deep cycle wet cell batteries as the house bank.  I asked Jack Rabbit Energy people about using the Digital Duo Charge unit to combine them.  They suggested I use the Echo Charger even though I am using different battery types.  Their words were:  
    "The use of a charge sharing device is very good in that means that ALL charging sources can be directed to House bank and the device shares that charge with the Start bank.  I would recommend the use of an Echo-Charge (15amp max.) versus the DDC (30 amp max.).  Both are quality devices but you do not need 30 amp capability for the Start bank."  

I asked about the different battery types and their reply was:  
    "The charging program for deep cycle wet cells and AGM are virtually identical (within .02 volts).  Since the Start bank is NOT being deep cycled, the wet cell charge voltage should be just fine."

Does this sound okay?  Should I use the Echo Charger and save a few dollars?

Ken

The hailing port for uscg documentation must be at least 4" block letters on the transom.  The only place for this on a 2005 C34 MK II would be the 6" curving base of the swim platform.  Has anyone else fit it in any other way?

thanks,
Ken

I am taking possession of a new C34 MKll in a couple of weeks.  I plan on partially upgrading the electrical system following all the posted information from this forum (Balmar 80 amp alternator, MC-612 regulator, DDC-12 dual charger).  I will keep the two 4D batteries as a house bank.  I wanted to add a starting battery (AGM).  In this new boat the area under the aft cabin on either side of the prop shaft is taken up on the port side by the exhaust muffler and on the starboard side by the raw water intake filter and the primary fuel filter (This does not seem like a good place for these filters).  I could go further back and straddle the prop shaft aft of the stuffingbox/stern tube.  Would there be any problems with this?  Also the raymarine flux compass is located here, only 6-8 inches from where the battery would be.  Should I look for a different location?  I was wondering how long Catalina had been placing these filters in this compartment and how other people have managed them.  They are not easily accessed.  I was planning on using the AGM battery because of low maintenance, but it seems I may have to dig back into this area more than I had planned.  The compartment with the raw water intake thru-hull to starboard could possibly hold a battery but I have not measured it.

Also,  the boat comes with a shore power Charles 30 amp charger.  Do I connect it to each of the battery banks?  Will there be a problem using shore power for charging each of the battery banks with the Duo Charger connected between them?

Thanks for any help or advice,
Ken

Hi,

I have a new C34 on order, expecting delivery in Feb.  I was wondering about the bottom preparation.  Is the epoxy moisture barrier recommended?  The boat comes with 5 year blister protection warranty.  Should we think about doing this later, since we have this warranty?  Our plan is to be in freshwater for the first 2 years and then 2 years in saltwater and then we do not know.  

Also, any other suggestions on what needs to be done to a new boat would be greatly appreciated.  Owning a new boat is new to me.

Ken