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Topics - fulvio

#1
This is not C34-specific, but just in case anyone is interested:

I have a Stern Rail Outboard Motor Mount by Edson, part #521-100ST: 
http://www.edsonmarine.com/marinestore/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=383

In good shape, asking $100 (goes for $338 new).
#2
I have a complete dodger frame made of 1" stainless steel tubing.  The dodger fabric is shredded, but the frame is in perfect shape, complete with all the fittings.  Located in Seattle.  Asking $100 (much less than the worth of all the end and joint fittings alone), but shipping cost might be prohibitive.  So I'm giving c34.org users first dibs in case there is anyone local, before posting on craigslist.
#3
I know there are a ton of posts in this forum about transmission problems, but I was not able to find one that exactly fits my situation.

1989 C34, #929 here.  Universal M25XP, Hurth transmission.

As the title says, my transmission works just fine in reverse.  However, in forward the shaft spins quite slowly (definitely less than 10 revolutions per second), regardless of engine RPM, and so it gives almost no thrust.  As for noises:  I get the usual, satisfying "clunk" when shifting to reverse, but no sound at all shifting to forward.  Other than that, no unusual noises. 
I went so far as disconnecting the control cable, to make sure the shifter lever on the transmission block is moving the full range, but that is not the issue.
Admittedly, when I checked the fluid level it was pretty low - just to the tip of the dipstick.  So I got my hopes up that adding fluid the problem would go away, but no.  I added 100 ml of transmission oil (which I believe is 33% of the 0.3 L capacity according to the manual) and it seems to cover the line in the dipstick now. 

Probably unrelated:  This started happening not long after I replaced my prop with a new Bruntons AutoProp (and added a vetus bullflex flexible shaft coupling), so at first I thought something was wrong with the prop.  But then I had divers go down and replace the zincs and they said the prop is fine (with video to prove it).  I wouldn't exclude that there might be an engine alignment issue, since I also did a bunch of engine work, and that could have caused problems with the transmission.  The low fluid level could be a symptom of that.

Any suggestions before buckling down and taking the transmission out?  I know that means lifting the engine up, removing the bell housing, etc, etc, and I am not looking forward to it.

Thanks!

#4
In the process of installing a new hose under the head sink to feed the galley salt-water spigot I learned that having the head intake hose on a through-hull different from the one for the head sump pump dramatically improved the head pump efficiency.  Here is how my three through-hulls under the head sink were plumbed originally:

1. engine raw water intake
2. head intake, teed with sump pump discharge
3. head sink discharge

Wanting to add my galley salt water intake to the combo, I reasoned that it seemed to make more sense to have two intakes teed together and two discharges teed on their own through-hull, instead of mixing intake and discharge on the same through-hull. 

When I did, the head pump flow was much faster and easier than before.  The reason for this, as I discovered, is that when you activate the head pump in the original configuration, you are also sucking air through the anti-syphon valve on the sump pump drain line, making the flush a lot more inefficient.

Unfortunately, there is a reason why putting the sump pump discharge on a T with the head sink discharge is a bad idea:  when you start the sump pump, it will push foul smelling water that stagnates in the hose up the sink.  Yuck!

A possible solution might be to add a shut-off valve in the sump drain hose between the through-hull and the anti-syphon valve, with the disadvantage that one has to remember to open it before starting the sump pump.

Does anyone have a better idea?

I do like the head pump to run that much more smoothly.
#5
I want a salt water spigot on my galley sink, in order to conserve fresh water while cruising.  There is a pop-off cover on a hole right next to the main faucet that seems made just for that.  I've already routed a hose from the head sink drain through-hull to the foot-pump (that used to be for the reefer).  And I've already bought a spigot that fits through that hole.  The double sink is the original one.

The problem I'm facing is that the space below the divisor between the two sinks is too narrow, and reaching up to it is nearly impossible from either the water heater door, or the under-sink drawer opening, in order to slip on the hose and tighten the hose clamp.  So it seems this installation will require lifting up the whole sink.  My question:  how is the sink attached to the counter?  Is it just caulking?  Any tips on how to remove it?

Thanks!
#6
I just received a new Bullflex flexible shaft coupling, so I'm about to do this upgrade.  The manual talks about a "centering ring" that needs to be removed before installation if the shaft has two rigid bearings.  I quote:

QuoteWhere the propeller shaft is supported by one rigid bearing only, the Bullflex coupling - with the centering ring installed - will function as a flexible ball joint.
When the propeller shaft is installed rigidly which means to say - supported by two (or more) non-flexible bearings - the propeller shaft should not be affected by engine movements.  Therefore remove the centering ring in such an installation.

The picture illustrating the first case (one rigid bearing only) looks a lot like the setup on the C34 - cutlass bearing and packing gland.  The reason I feel a bit uncertain, and hence my question, is that the stuffing box/packing gland looks very much like a rigid bearing to me.  So I don't really know which case applies to the C34.

Have others who installed the Bullflex removed the centering ring, or left it in place?

Thanks!
#7
When I bought my boat back in 2000, it came with two 5 ga jerry cans that are the perfect shape to fit in the port cockpit locker, plus a smaller 2.1 ga can.  Now they are showing their age, and since I just installed a brand-new fuel tank, I wanted to replace them, too.  Unfortunately, I have not been able to find any cans just like the old ones.  After a bit of searching, I found these on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002B7RP62

From the picture, they looked to be the same ones I have, so I ordered them.  Yesterday when they arrived, I tried them for fit, and they are just about 0.5" too tall and long.  I could make do, but I know it will be a pain, as they won't go in straight like the old ones.  (Not to mention that silly spout, but I can live with that.)

Does anyone know the cans I'm talking about, and where to find them?  The brand of the old ones is Blitz, but I could not find the equivalent online.
#8
Main Message Board / Harken traveler factory-installed?
September 30, 2012, 09:44:39 AM
There are many, many threads on this forum about the mainsheet traveler, but I have not found this question answered:

Have any new C34s come with a Harken traveler installed by Catalina? 

My 1989 (#929) has one (see pictures), and it had two or three POs.  I have not found any proof that one of the POs might have installed it. Furthermore, it has the same purchase as the Nicro-Fico, so as an "upgrade" it wouldn't offer any advantage.

Ultimately, I'd like to upgrade to the Garhauer traveler, and it would be nice if I didn't have to replace the track.  Mine has three through-bolts on each side.

Thanks for any insight!
#9
Main Message Board / bell housing gasket?
September 29, 2012, 08:30:17 PM
Quick question:  is there a gasket for the bell housing, or is it even needed?

I am putting the transmission and bell housing back together myself after a botched job by a local mechanic.  When the bell housing came out, I can't remember if there were any remains of a gasket, and now I don't see any either on the engine or on the bell housing.  I have a gasket set I purchased for my Universal M25XP years ago, but none of them matches or is even big enough for the bell housing.  I looked online and in the parts and shop manual, but I don't see anything that answers my question.

Thanks!
#10
Main Message Board / LPG Stove switch replacement
May 24, 2009, 11:35:15 AM
I have the original nav station electrical panel.

The light in the "LPG Stove" switch on my electrical panel burned out.  The switch still works fine, but I want to replace it.  Does anyone know the make and model of these switches?

The only switches of the same size and type I could find at Fisheries Supply are made by Blue Sea Systems (B/S 7480).  However, Blue Sea does not seem to make any "lighted" switches. 

While I'm at it, I'd like to replace the on-off-on bilge pump switch with a "lighted" one, so it would glow every time the bilge pump runs;  likewise with the fresh water pump switch.

Any help in finding these switches would be greatly appreciated!
#11
Main Message Board / do you wiki?
November 23, 2005, 09:44:03 AM
Just a quick poll to feel the ground for a new initiative.
#12
Main Message Board / water heater trips main AC breaker
November 13, 2005, 11:30:20 AM
Ever since my last cruise, I've been having some AC problems.  I think I have narrowed them all down to a bad AC main breaker.  The breaker I'm talking about is the push button on the instrument panel, which is rated for 30 A, and disconnects all AC from the boat's circuits.  I thought I had a problem with the water heater, because it was the only thing to consistently trip the breaker, within 2 to 20 minutes whenever I turned it on.  I inspected all wires and connections (except those in the heater, see below) and could not find anything wrong.  The main breaker does feel moderately hot to the touch right after it trips.  Finally, I measured the current drawn by the water heater alone (11.5 A max) and by the entire house (not much more than 12 A, with nothing significant running), and I concluded that the breaker really should not trip at such a low draw.  So I'm going to try replacing the breaker, which by now should be 16 years old.  Any comments?

The other question I have is:  how do you access the electrical connections inside the water heater?  I have the factory-installed Seaward, and I opened the small cover where the wire goes in.  However, except for the ground (green) wire and the reset button, I can not see any other connections directly.  The white and black wire go in further, behind a sort of thick cardboard cover, and I don't see how to get to their connections without opening up the whole heater.
#13
Main Message Board / C34 logo
November 11, 2005, 09:29:58 AM
I could whip one up pretty quickly with a graphics editor, but it's even faster to just type this message:

can anyone point me to a good quality logo of the C34?  I need it to order a customized holiday gift. :->

Thanks!
#14
Main Message Board / Chainplate cover
August 22, 2005, 11:01:24 AM
While doing the "chainplate rebedding" project on two leaking chainplates, it appears I have irretrievably misplaced (i.e. "lost") one of the covers.  :roll:

What is my best/fastest option to get a new one?  (so I can finish the job and not leave the boat unsailed for weeks before the end of the summer  :cry4` )

I was thinking of taking the one I still haven't lost to a local sheet metal fabricator to have a replica made.

Thanks for your ideas!
#15
Main Message Board / engine mounts
May 21, 2005, 11:10:48 AM
The consensus on this message board seems to be for the Vetus K-50 or K-75 mounts.  I was wondering if anyone has any experience with mounts from Bushings Inc. or from Drivelines NW.

Here are some links:

    Bushings Inc.
    This is the Bushings Inc. model recommended for Universal M25XP:
    Vetus
    Aquadrive from Drivelines NW
    [/list:u]

    Also, does anybody know the manufacturer and model of the stock mounts that Catalina uses?
    #16
    Main Message Board / Hump Hose on back-order
    May 20, 2005, 11:44:21 AM
    I have it from reliable sources that Catalina neglected to keep up their stock of hump hose, so now they are on back-order with Trident.

    Apparently, Trident makes the 1 5/8" hose specifically for Catalina in the two lengths we know about (8" and 6" I believe), and I don't think anybody else makes or sells this diameter and length hump hose.

    So if you are planning on doing the muffler/hump hose job, better wait for another month or so.  I, unfortunately, already installed a new muffler, and while I'm waiting for the hump hose I'll have to revert to installing the original kind straight exhaust hose, which I'm sooo not looking forward to wrestling with.  Then I'll have fun taking that out once I get the new hump hose.  Gotta go cruising on Memorial Day weekend!

    For those curious about the muffler project:

    with some effort I was able to get the old muffler out and the new muffler in from under the aft cabin berth.  Just a lot of wiggling, but it went.  The new muffler came with in/out ports that were at least 1" longer than the 2 1/4" ones on the old one, so I had to saw them off, otherwise there would have been absolutely no way to put it back in.

    My old muffler was leaking profusely, but I could not tell from where.  All I knew was that it was from somewhere around the base, not from the in or out ports.  So once I had it out, I filled it with water to test.  Obviously, it was not under pressure and it was cold, which might affect the test result.  But to my surprise it seemed to be leaking only from the aft stbd screw hole!  I could clearly see it drip through the hole - maybe the bottom got delaminated inside and the water found a path to that hole?

    Anyway, I'm happy to be rid of that black water leak.
    #17
    Fleet 5 / Hot Springs/Barkley Sound
    March 02, 2005, 10:21:20 AM
    My plan for this summer is to head up to Hot Springs and/or Barkley Sound, sometime in September or late August.  I miss the ocean swells, and the wide open water!

    Just wanted to put it out there, in case someone has similar plans and we can meet up along the way.  Also, tips and local info are welcome.