Topics

I'm finally getting ready to replace my scupper hoses and have read lots of posts on this site regarding them.  I have a '90 C34 and it seems my hoses, which are brittle, are overkill for the situation.  They're heavy black hoses which I believe are OEM.  An associate at West Marine suggested that sump pump hose like Shields 120 or 141 would be appropriate.  By comparison to what I have that seemed odd until I realized that the submersible and hand pumps use that type and exit the stern right next to the scupper hoses. 

So is the reason for the hose overkill the apparent size differential in the scupper drain fitting and the through-hull?

I've seen a few older posts about brown water dripping in the head but no resolution as to what might have caused the issue, so I'm starting a new brown water post.

This spring we had a lot of rain and I found that dark brown water had dripped from the outside edges of my head's hatch.  The hatch itself is not leaking.  When I put up our dodger I noticed a significant reduction in the amount brown dripping (there seemed to be no let-up in the amount of rain and I'm told it often has hit with hard winds coming from the direction of the bow) but it still happened.  I ran water around the base of the hatch for about 20 minutes... no leak.  I did the same thing, one at a time, around the platforms the winch, the rope clutch and the traveler sit on. Nothing again.  I ran water directly on top of those and nothing.  Finally, I ran water in the track the companionway cover slides in.  Nothing.  There are no other openings higher than the hatch and am at a loss as to where the water is entering. I'm considering the idea that, with large amounts in the track for possibly hours during storms there could be a leak there. Does anyone have experience with this situation?

Thanks everyone.

I'm getting to a number of projects and will be opening a few topics, but here's the first.  I'm replacing a very heavy shower sump pump that hasn't worked since I bought my 34. It's likely original to the boat and looks nothing like the Jabsco PARs that are used now. It's screwed on to a chunk of wood which is not attached/glued to anything.  It's in the small compartment with the thru hulls behind the head sink.  My guess is that the wood block was once glued to the hull.  I have a Jabsco PAR, with strainer, and would like to know how the pump is attached in other 34s.  If it's screwed to a board what kind of glue would be used to attach to the hull?  Thanks so much.

I went to visit my 1990 C34, which has been on its cradle for about a month, and discovered something concerning.  The sliding cover didn't slide smoothly.  On closer inspection, the cover was touching the deck above it midway port to starboard. So either the curve of the cover increased, or the curve of the deck became flatter.  I'm guessing it's the latter. I know the function of the side supports is to maintain side to side balance and not to support weight, but is it possible they were left so loose that the hull sagged?  This is the only explanation I can come up with and I want to correct the situation ASAP.  Thanks all for your advice.

I've noticed my C34 tilts to port ever since I bought it a few years ago (maybe 5 to 8 degrees).  I recently notice that looking up from the cabin, the mast is touching the port side of the opening in the deck.  Upon further checking the port side stays are all shorter than the starboard side stays.  Lowers are about 3/4" short and upper is about 2.5" short Measured to the chainplate with a taut halyard.  Cool!  Maybe an adjustment is in order!  The problem, I found, is that the turnbuckles on the uppers are at the absolute limit of their (opening) adjustment.  I looked for longer replacement T-bolts at Garhayer, Catalina direct and West Marine and came up empty.   I did a google search but am unsure whether those that came up are good replacements.  Has anyone had this issue or know of a reputable supplier?

Going into our fourth year with our 1990 C34 we keep running into unusual situations.  Our aft water tank's vent stopped working. No whistle, no water, so the tank overfilled. It seemed more reasonable to approach the tank from the rear berth as there is too much above it including the propane tank box.  But in addition to the screws holding up the aft wall there are three or four which are only accressible from behind the wall.  Is this normal or could it be a PO's doing?  I tried with no luck to sneak my hand in through the plastic cover and screw them out.  Any suggestions? 

Also, any suggestions regarding access to the vent line?

Finally, it may be that water from the overfill worked its way into the berth as the aft, port, corner of the mattress was wet (our C34 leans to port).  Is it possible that overflow worked it's way in?

I'm kind of at my wit's end regarding a problem I'm having and thought maybe somebody has had this problem and could steer me in the right direction. I get a loud squeal/whine, when I am under engine power, when my motor is at or above about 2000 RPM.  However, when the engine is ramped to and past 2000 RPM while tied to the dock there is no squeal in either forward or reverse.  It would seem the only difference between moving through the water and being stationary is in the motion of water past the prop. I'm using a 3-blade 15 x 9 prop. 

Our mechanic does not think it's the v-belt, which is about two years old, and appears to be properly tightened and not slipping.  This spring our mechanic replaced the very worn cutlass bearing, but no change. 

It doesn't seem to be related at all to rudder vibration.  Help!