Topics

Hey all, I'm getting rid of the janky mainsail furler from a PO and going back to the standard main attachment. I currently don't have a vang, and want to put one together myself. I'd like to run the control back to the cockpit. Looking at this picture of the "out of the box" vang from CD, would I just need the 2 fiddle blocks (1 with becket), but not the cam as pictured? Then I'd run it to a block at the mast base, through an organizer and aft to the cockpit. Does this sound like the right idea? Additionally, any estimates on the length of line it would take? Not sure how to measure the multiple trips through the fiddle blocks before going aft to the rope clutches. Thanks!

Starting our 4th summer down here in FL and was thinking of getting an electric dehumidifier for the hot and humid summer months. I've been using 4 of those small Damprid buckets and running fans/ ventilating, which works "okay", but the boat still starts to smell a bit in summer and I do get a little mildew on the ceiling. Not to mention, dumping and replacing the Damprid crystals almost weekly is getting old and expensive. The boat lives at the dock and there isn't much of a breeze there to ventilate. I'm aware of the controversial aspect of leaving a seacock open, but mine are well maintained and I have proper hose and clamps on all my thru-hulls, so I'm fairly comfortable with using the galley sink to drain the dehumidifier. Does anyone run a similar setup, and if so, what's your experience with the effectiveness of it, and what type of unit do you have? Additionally, the boat is always on shore power and I pay a flat rate, so no concerns of the cost of the electricity. Thoughts?

Hey all, I'm in the process of re-oiling the interior teak. I'm using the Watco product and it looks great so far. I've seen Minwax Polycrylic mentioned here a few times as an overcoat to finish the job. What's the purpose of putting it on? Does it add a layer of protection and prolong the life of the teak oil? Does it add a nice gloss? Are there any negatives? I picked up a can at Ace, but haven't opened it yet. Just wanted to see what other opinions are of the stuff. Thanks!

[1) I usually "shut off the fuel" by using needle nose vice grips with tubing pump. on the tips and "clamp" off the hose.It's easier than emptying theport side lazarette to get to thetank shut off]

I removed the fuel injectors yesterday and took them to a shop for a rebuild. Followed the instructions quoted below from the Aug 2002 TechNotes...

1) I usually "shut off the fuel" by
using needle nose vice grips with tubing pump.
on the tips and "clamp" off the hose.
It's easier than emptying the
port side lazarette to get to the
tank shut off

I went back to the boat today and there was a gallon+ of diesel in the "pan" under the engine. I can't for the life of me figure out how that much fuel leaked out of the injection pump (fuel lines are removed). I had absorbant shop towels on top of the 3 nipples to keep it clean and it was soaked with fuel today when I got to the boat. Where else or HOW did that much fuel escape???! 
Additional note: I didn't shut off fuel at the tank, as I couldn't see any way it could gravity feed all the way to the injectors, plus I did the "hemostat" trick on the fuel line, which usually works great for me when I change the filters.  M25 XP

I have a wonky aftermarket furling main (which I despise) and am finally getting around to putting the old, original main back on the boat. It's been in a bag since I've owned it. So, dumb question, but I can't tell if it's attached or loose footed. It has what appears to be a bolt rope sewn into the foot, but the foot has a definite curve cut into it, making me wonder if it's not loose footed. Wouldn't an attached foot sail have a straight cut foot to slide into the boom slot?

I was reading up on reverse polarity and AC power issues here and realized that neither of my AC panel lights have been working (at least the green "available" light doesn't, polarity checks good at the dock and on board). The PO had the green one disconnected, so I wired it up yesterday, and re-wired the red RP light with proper connectors. Before I order new lamps from Blue Sea, does it matter which lead is attached to neutral or hot/ neutral or ground? Both wires are the same, and I just guessed. I'll probable go out and test them both with DC just to make sure, but I'm inclined to think they are burned out. I also wired up the yellow "DC available" lamp and it is toast. 1989 boat.

Secondly, I only have the "in panel" 30A double pole breaker, and want to install the breaker at the shore power inlet per ABYC code. Any recommendations on a reasonable product for this? I was looking at the Blue Sea ELCI breaker with the waterproof box and it's like $800 bucks! What is everybody else doing?

Do any of you guys have your genoa halyard cleated off on the mast? I'm thinking of doing it to free up a clutch on the cabin top for 2-line reefing. I was doing some reading on cruisers forum and a bunch of them were talking about riveting a small plate of aluminum to the mast to thicken the amount of aluminum that the machine screws "bite" thus securing the cleat more effectively. One even suggested "through-bolting" I think this sounds like complete overkill, but am I missing something here? Seems to me that based on the direction of force from a cleated halyard would be relatively low and 2 high quality stainless machine screws would be sufficient, but I'm just a pilot, not an engineer. 

I have an '89 with the M25XP. Manual says 3200 is the max RPM. I was perusing the forum here and read a bunch of threads about cruise RPM and speeds, etc. I realized that my tach reads 25-2600 RPM at WOT. I'm pretty sure that's the way it's been since I've owned the boat (2 years). I know the tach can be less than accurate, so I ordered a laser tach from amazon to see what it's actually turning.
My question is...If it is indeed turning this lower speed, is it just a matter of adjusting the throttle set screw on the engine until it's reaching 3000-3200? I looked at it and it has plenty of room to be adjusted for the throttle to open wider. Secondly...can this be done at the dock in neutral, or should I be in gear out on the water? The engine runs very well other than this. I've not had any issues with it at all.  TIA!
Tim

I've real through all the fridge follies and 101 topics, and printed out the long troubleshooting checklist here on the forum...Here's where I'm at

I have the older Adler Barbor with the 4-pin Danfoss controller (no LED lights) I'd put it between 25-20 years old
Fridge quit working, the wiring was a complete mess, so I did as recommended here and re-wired everything properly, upgrading from 12 AWG to 8 AWG marine wire, properly crimped, heat shrink, etc.
Fridge still doesn't work, checked voltage at controller, solid 13 V. Every time I turn it on, the 15 A fuse on the controller blows instantly.
I bypassed the thermostat, same problem. The checklist directs one to disconnect the 4 pin from the compressor, then try again. Bingo! No blown fuse. Kollmann suggests that that probably indicates a bad compressor. So, do I just chuck the thing and consider it toast and buy a new system, or is there ANYTHING else anyone can think of to try before I drop $1500 of the Admiral's money on a new unit.

I just got my boat back in the water after moving to FL. Replaced standing rigging, new bottom paint, moved start battery aft, and switched to a new 3 blade prop. I motored 12 miles today in the river to my new slip and noticed the stern sitting low in the water. I ran below to make sure I wasn't taking on water, and thankfully, everything was dry. I think maybe the torque from the prop upgrade is changing the trim of the boat perhaps? I was running at 2500 RPM, 6-6.2 KTS boat speed, and the water was up to the bilge pump outlet on the transom, which puts the exhaust port under water. No fresh water in either tank, no extra weight astern. Has anyone ever seen this before? Is it a problem if the exhaust is under the water? There were 2 of us sitting on the stern rail seats too, but I've never noticed this before and we sit there all the time.

Pulling and replacing the stemhead as I'm doing a complete rigging refit. Got all the bolts out, but can't get it past the rubrail. Does that have to be removed? I REALLY don't want to have to do that

I'm in the process of re-doing my electrical system based on some excellent templates and advice from here, and MaineSail's various posts. Couple of things that came up today...

1. I'm wiring the alternator direct to my new battery bank and was looking for a spot to mount an alternator service disconnect switch in the eng compartment, and it looks like there is NO room anywhere for it. Has anyone installed one, and if so, where?

2. I'm trying to do a little cleanup behind my DC panel before I tackle replacing the whole thing next year. I mounted a Neg Bus bar on the hull behind the panel to re-route the ground wires there. Is there a neg ground wire for the DC panel itself, or just each individual component circuit that runs to the panel for switching? It is quite the rat's nest back there and I want to make sure I get everything. In my factory wiring diagram, there are 2 #10 red wires that run from the "C" post on the switch to a neg bus bar. What are these wires for?
Thanks!

We're considering making a move from Michigan down to Jacksonville, FL, Specifically Fruit Cove in St John's County. Anyone know how the sailing is down there, marinas, etc? Any recommended changes to the boat for going from freshwater to saltwater? Thanks!

I'm replacing the batteries (as well as most of the rest of the electrical system this winter) and have digested a ton of great info so far from this site. I'm kicking around going with 3 Lifeline AGM GPL31XT's for the house bank. The only way I think they will fit in the stock battery compartment is as follows...Is there any "no-no" as far as storing batteries like this, ie. slightly different length cables paralleling them, and different orientation? In my crude diagram, starboard is up.

Ok guys, I'm working down my winterization list and got to the replacement of the heat exchanger zinc. I had a hard time finding it, then realized that the dripless stuffing box hose is attached where the zinc should be.  Has anyone ever seen this done before? My research online shows that that hose is normally just routed straight up above the waterline and into space so I'm a bit confused. I'm guessing that the zinc has been removed to facilitate this setup. The stuffing box itself is pretty new according to the broker listing when I bought the boat, but I don't have any of the paperwork for it, so I don't know what brand it is. I'm going back to the marina tomorrow, so I'm going to take a closer look at it and get some pics if I can. I just wanted to throw this out there to you guys before I make the drive tomorrow.
Thanks again!

"As for the air block, it's called "BURPING" and all you need to do is take the 3/8 inch hose off the bottom of the thermostat.  Pour distilled water or antifreeze or the 50/50 mix into that hose with a funnel until water comes out of the bottom of the thermostat.  Loosen the hose clamp and pull the hose off.  Hold that hose up above the thermostat and pour the stuff into it until the water comes out of the bottom of the thermostat - the nipple that you just removed the hose from.  Once that happens, just put the hose back on the nipple under the thermostat housing and tighten up the hose clamp.  Put some Lanocote on the nipple to make it easier to remove the hose the next time. That gets the air out of the loop of hose that goes to the hot water heater and avoids overheating at startup and does not require that you rev the engine while the thermostat petcock is open.  You won't need to open the thermostat petcock at all."

I'm planning on replacing some hoses before haulout, and decided to change the coolant out as well. I just want to make sure I have a complete grasp of this burping technique. First drain/flush/replace coolant from manifold radiator cap, THEN burp the air out.....
Dumb question, but this entire burping process is done with the engine RUNNING?, and the additional AF you add will circulate through the system and then come out the bottom of the thermostat, correct? Once there is uninterrupted flow from there, the air should be  evacuated and then you can re-attach the hose?

Second question....What is this appendage attached to the side of my fuel filter with the yellow cap? Just got the boat and am combing through the systems getting familiar with everything as it's a bit more complicated than my C22. Thanks again.

My Oberdorfer has a slow drip and I want to replace the gasket and impeller, but can't find the model number on it. There is a small 8920 on the side of the housing, but I don't think that is the model, as I've been searching around online. Boat is a 1989 with the M25XP.