Topics

Good News!

Thanks again to all. I really appreciate your advice.

Luckily, I was able to get our local (there's only one here in San Carlos MX) diesel mechanic and general boat guru to disconnect all the major impediments for me from the aft lazarette. It took all of about 20 minutes. There's times it's good not to be 6'5". We raised the boat with the hydroelectric trailer and with much pounding, pushing and pulling broke the shaft free from the aluminum emergency tiller cap.

Bad News!!

The rudder post is corroded at the base where it enters the top of the rudder and there's signs of corrosion about 10" up the shaft. I have a couple of choices:

1. Take the rudder apart and import a new shaft rebuild the rudder and reinstall.

2. Buy a new rudder.

Seaclusion in old, 1986, but in generally good health. She still has her original rudder and I'm wondering if replacing what I have w an elliptical rudder makes sense. I've read most of the posts in this board most of which was written about 10 yrs ago it seems.

I'm wondering if any of you have any brilliant thoughts on this.

Thanks again for your  input.

Dave

I'm attempting to drop the rudder to check the shaft and remove the slop. I'd really like to remove the aft water tank so I can reach all the doohickies that need to be loosened/removed so the rudder will slide out. I'm especially interested in how the tank is affixed to the boat. I'm assuming that someone has pulled one out and would appreciate any experiences. My boat is hull # 364 and a 1986 MK1. No sugar, no scoop. At 6'5" and 230Lbs getting access through the rear lazzerette is somewhat problematic. I don't know anyone who I dislike enough to ask to help. Thanks.

I know the message board isn't for IT questions but it's all I can access. For example, if I go to C34 Tech Wiki then click a link I'm sent to a black page. I thought that maybe my membership had sunk so I went to Join again, same result. Have I been court-martialed, thrown off the island or banned? Any ideas would be helpful?

Thanks,
Dave

I know that non-skid has been discussed multiple times but my question is this; in preparation of painting the non-skid, do you sand away all the old factory molded non-skid then apply new paint/sand non-skid? Or can the molded original be cleaned and "roughed up" and painted over. And has anyone ever used the rubberized stick on non-skid and if so would you recommend it? Thanks for your help

Dave
SV Seaclusion
Catalina 34
Hull #364

When I was in Scouts, away at camp in the wilds of Wisconsin 50 some years ago, one of the leaders was a former Navy man. He "promoted" one of the scouts to be captain of the head. The leader and the scout's dad saw great humor in that. The scout was quite proud of his promotion, until he wasn't.

Fast forward to today and it seems I've been "promoted" too.

Seaclusion has all the original head bits except that a PO has glassed over discharge thru hull and disconnected the fill hose from the head and the discharge line from the tank/macerator. Vent line and pump out are still intact.

There is a 1.5 in line that goes from the head to a thru hull via a anti siphon loop in the locker just aft of the nab station. Direct discharge. Yuck.

I'd like (need) to bring the boat into compliance. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated. By the way, if anyone can think of a way without needing a new thru hull that would be awesome!

I'm sure this has been discussed but I've not found the answer so any help would be appreciated. My boat, Seaclusion, hull number 364, standard mast, has the original jiffy reef slab setup. The owners manual says the reef lines should be 3/8ths line. That seems heavier than necessary. I was wondering what the general consensus is. Thanks for your input.

Has anyone changed from the original mast to a roller furler? Suereal has the original mast from 1986/87. If anyone has any input I'd appreciate it. I'm curious what others have done with whom and the cost, financially, physically and emotionally. Thanks.

I'm replacing my engine mounts on Seaclusion, C-34 MK1, Hull # 364 and have 2 questions:

1. For those of you in the know, should i go to Catalina Direct and order or is there another brand/manufacturer that you'd recommend.

2. I've found one of the (I assume) lag bolts that holds the mount to the stringer in the engine compartment to be broken off. I assume I'm going to have to pull the engine out of the way to be able to access the remainder of the bolt and use an "easyout" or some such to extract it. Less fun than just lifting it a bit.

I apologize ahead of time for the questions, but I have read 101 and gotten some great info also read the the Wiki info (that is not working right now, btw) and other posts, some of which are fairly old (one was by a J. Slocum) So I was wondering if there's been any new developments that would be helpful.

Thanks.

I've read through the site and Tech Wiki and wold still appreciate some insight from those saltier than I. The dead lights on Seaclusion '87 C34 hull # 364 need to be replaced. Don Casey makes this sound like a straight forward DIY. My Questions are: Does anyone know the thickness of the plexiglass? (I'd measure myself but I'm in the US and the boat's in MX). I assume that it's 1/4 inch but verification would be awesome! Has anyone cut their own plexiglass and is it straight forward? Also, has anyone used 3M VHB 5952 tape to attach the plexi? It would be a screwless  installation. Thanks.