Anybody re-powered their Universal M35BC with a Yanmar 3YM30AE. I am looking at doing that with my C34 MKII built 1997. Would live to hear how easy or otherwise this was. Many thanks
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#2
Main Message Board / Alternator / Tachometer
July 12, 2021, 01:50:59 PM
Has anybody got any thoughts on why my tachometer displays 1000rpm more on battery 2 than battery 1. I also have some tacho-dancing on both Batt 1 and Batt 2 but more pronounced on Batt 2. Have done VDC test on 'P' terminal (the one wired to the alternator) and I am getting higher readings on Batt 2. Have done all the usual checks re wiring and wired tacho direct from battery and alternator. The only thing I can think of is battery 2 is starting to deteriorate - it holds slightly less charge 12.8 VDC v 13.0 VDC when engine shut down. Batteries are Varta LFD180 dual purpose and only two years old.
Any thoughts most welcome.
Any thoughts most welcome.
#3
Main Message Board / Tachometer RPM Over-read
June 13, 2021, 10:32:57 AM
I recently replaced all my Teleflex engine instruments on my Catalina 34 Mk2 yacht (1376) with KUS Q series gauges. The engine is Universal Westerbeke M35BC with 2,000 hours and the alternator was factory-supplied with the engine.
The new tachometer (ranges up to 4000 RPM) reads accurately with all electrical accessories switched off. However, when I switch on any one of the refrigeration, engine blower fan or chart plotter, the tachometer over-reads especially on higher revolutions. If I have the engine revolutions at 3,000 revs and then switch on engine blower fan, the tachometer read increases to 4,000 revs, although actual engine revolutions remain the same at 3,000 RPM. Individual battery monitors are both reading constant 14 volt irrespective of whether refrigeration, engine blower or chart plotter is on, so I think that the alternator and positive / negative wiring is OK.
My Positive and Negative wiring for the engine panel are wired through Bus Bars which feed all engine switches and instruments. Whilst the chart plotter and engine blower switch are located near the tachometer (on the binnacle), the refrigeration and blower fan are both located some 1 metre from the tachometer. Also I believe the refrigeration unit wiring to be on a separate loom although all ultimately converge onto the main electrical control panel below decks.
Any ideas as to fixing this would be much appreciated.
The new tachometer (ranges up to 4000 RPM) reads accurately with all electrical accessories switched off. However, when I switch on any one of the refrigeration, engine blower fan or chart plotter, the tachometer over-reads especially on higher revolutions. If I have the engine revolutions at 3,000 revs and then switch on engine blower fan, the tachometer read increases to 4,000 revs, although actual engine revolutions remain the same at 3,000 RPM. Individual battery monitors are both reading constant 14 volt irrespective of whether refrigeration, engine blower or chart plotter is on, so I think that the alternator and positive / negative wiring is OK.
My Positive and Negative wiring for the engine panel are wired through Bus Bars which feed all engine switches and instruments. Whilst the chart plotter and engine blower switch are located near the tachometer (on the binnacle), the refrigeration and blower fan are both located some 1 metre from the tachometer. Also I believe the refrigeration unit wiring to be on a separate loom although all ultimately converge onto the main electrical control panel below decks.
Any ideas as to fixing this would be much appreciated.
#4
Main Message Board / Traveller Sheave / Pulley
April 06, 2021, 02:00:22 PM
Looking for one sheave / pulley wheel for my 1997 C34 MkII. Can be seized, don't mind as will be replacing ball-bearings. Dimensions of sheave are 1 3/4 inch dia, 5/8 inch wide and 5/16 inch hole / bore. So if you have recently replaced traveller and have a sheave / pulley that you don't want, will pay what you want plus postage.
#5
Main Message Board / Bedding Sheets
March 15, 2021, 10:40:41 AM
Anyone know where I can get fitted sheets for a C34Mk2?
#6
Main Message Board / Below Deck Autopilot C34 Mk2
September 12, 2020, 08:25:39 AM
INSTALLATION OF A 'BELOW-DECK' AUTOPILOT ON A C34 MKII
Equipment Purchased
• 1x Raymarine Evolution short shaft Autopilot system – product #T70158
• 1x Raymarine Rudder Reference Transducer – product #M81105
• 1x Raymarine Seatalk1 to Seatalk NG conversion kit – product #22158
• 1x Edson Tiller Arm – product #926-10-610MKII, bored to 2.86"
• 4x Catalina polished flush-head drive mounting bolts – product #000531
I purchased Smooth Jazz (1997 C34 MkII, hull #1376) in August 2004 as I thought it superior to many European yachts in that price range. After 16 years, I still hold that view. However in 2004 it came with an unreliable wheel autopilot and basic electronics. In 2005 I had all navigation electronics replaced with Raymarine equipment. I chose Raymarine because I have used them or their forerunner (Autohelm) since 1992 and enjoyed good service and reliability. The wheel pilot I chose was the ST4000 Mk2 model which was the strongest of Raymarine's wheel pilots; recommended for vessels up to 18,000 lbs. displacement; so should have been fine for Smooth Jazz at 12,550 lbs.
Smooth Jazz is based at Chichester on the South Coast of England and makes an annual voyage across to France and along the North Brittany coast; the voyage being approximately 500 miles. On many of these voyages, I encountered complete or partial failure of the ST4000 autopilot resulting in repair or replacement. In the summer of 2014, I again encountered a failure that required the unit being replaced. It was at this point that I decided to go for an up-grade, which meant a below-deck system.
After taking measurements in the aft lazerette, I found that I had insufficient space for the smallest below-decks Raymarine autopilot; this being their Evolution 'short-shaft' linear-drive system which was good for displacements of up to 24,000 lbs. The drive unit needed to be mounted on the strongest part of the stern, that being the underside of the aft boarding platform. The problem was that the aft water tank prevented full movement of a tiller arm (required for a below decks systems) when turning the boat to port. The only solution I came-up with was to have a section of the water tank cut away so that the tiller arm could move freely. The water tank would in any event, need to be taken-out in order to work on the rudderstock and the underside of the boarding platform.
With some trepidation, the project began and the following is my programme of installation:
a) Clear the decks: Removed all bedding and cushions from the aft cabin along with the aft wooden panel that traverses the cabin.
b) Cut the water tank: A 'cutting line' was drawn on the water tank sufficient to provide free movement of an Edson tiller arm. The water tank was then removed and sent to a specialist polypropylene fabricator. The re-fabricated tank was back in two weeks; I believe I have lost less than three gallons in capacity.
c) Edson tiller arm: Product #926-10-610MKII, bored by Edson to 2.86". This was positioned just below the Edson steering radial drive-wheel. Integral clamp bolts were then tightened so that tiller arm was 90° starboard of the rudder position. Once absolutely sure we had the correct angle, the rudderstock was drilled and the tiller arm clamped and bolted.
d) Raymarine linear drive: The drive (product #M81130) was positioned on the starboard underside of the aft boarding platform so that the drive arm made a 90° angle to the tiller arm. Whilst there are a number of connecting holes on the tiller-arm that can be selected for the drive arm to attach, we wanted to position it towards the outer ones in order to obtain maximum leverage. Once a 90° angle was established, holes were then marked and drilled in the platform and the drive unit bolted with the Catalina Flush-head bolts – product #000531.
e) Raymarine Actuator Control Unit: Product #E70099 was installed under the heads sink unit. Taking-out the locker doorframe provides better working access to install the ACU.
f) Raymarine Sensor Core: Product #E70096 was positioned in the starboard locker forward of the Holding Tank as we wanted to keep it clear of any electro-magnetic interference. Looking back, I think we were a bit over-cautious and this could have been installed below the heads sink along with the ACU.
g) Install the Control Head: Product #E22166 merely was a replacement for the old ST60 control head used on the ST 4000 wheel unit. The STNG Adaptor Kit product #E22158 was installed within the instrument pod and is a simple 'plug and play' unit.
h) Rudder Reference Transducer: In addition, we used a Rudder Reference Unit Product #M81105 which while not essential, is recommended by Raymarine. Unfortunately, I did not find anywhere suitable to mount this, so I had to screw and glue a piece of marine ply to the underside of the cockpit deck; not great to look at, but it works and is out of sight below decks.
The Raymarine Evolution System #T70158 includes the drive, ACU, sensor core and control head. The system has a simple to use, dockside set-up procedure and hence it was soon working. Once we were satisfied with its operational status, we inserted and re-strapped the modified water tank along with the aft panel in the stern cabin; lastly a beer or two.
Five seasons later, I am extremely pleased with this Autopilot, as it is silent, reliable and simple to use. In 2016 my son-in-law (who also had a C34 MKII), installed the same system. Shortly afterwards he did a round trip of 3,000 miles from Chichester, UK to The Canary Islands off North Africa and was pleased with its performance.
Anybody interested, the original article inclusive of photos was featured in Mainsheet magazine Vol.36, No.4 Winter 2018 - I can also email article with photos.
Equipment Purchased
• 1x Raymarine Evolution short shaft Autopilot system – product #T70158
• 1x Raymarine Rudder Reference Transducer – product #M81105
• 1x Raymarine Seatalk1 to Seatalk NG conversion kit – product #22158
• 1x Edson Tiller Arm – product #926-10-610MKII, bored to 2.86"
• 4x Catalina polished flush-head drive mounting bolts – product #000531
I purchased Smooth Jazz (1997 C34 MkII, hull #1376) in August 2004 as I thought it superior to many European yachts in that price range. After 16 years, I still hold that view. However in 2004 it came with an unreliable wheel autopilot and basic electronics. In 2005 I had all navigation electronics replaced with Raymarine equipment. I chose Raymarine because I have used them or their forerunner (Autohelm) since 1992 and enjoyed good service and reliability. The wheel pilot I chose was the ST4000 Mk2 model which was the strongest of Raymarine's wheel pilots; recommended for vessels up to 18,000 lbs. displacement; so should have been fine for Smooth Jazz at 12,550 lbs.
Smooth Jazz is based at Chichester on the South Coast of England and makes an annual voyage across to France and along the North Brittany coast; the voyage being approximately 500 miles. On many of these voyages, I encountered complete or partial failure of the ST4000 autopilot resulting in repair or replacement. In the summer of 2014, I again encountered a failure that required the unit being replaced. It was at this point that I decided to go for an up-grade, which meant a below-deck system.
After taking measurements in the aft lazerette, I found that I had insufficient space for the smallest below-decks Raymarine autopilot; this being their Evolution 'short-shaft' linear-drive system which was good for displacements of up to 24,000 lbs. The drive unit needed to be mounted on the strongest part of the stern, that being the underside of the aft boarding platform. The problem was that the aft water tank prevented full movement of a tiller arm (required for a below decks systems) when turning the boat to port. The only solution I came-up with was to have a section of the water tank cut away so that the tiller arm could move freely. The water tank would in any event, need to be taken-out in order to work on the rudderstock and the underside of the boarding platform.
With some trepidation, the project began and the following is my programme of installation:
a) Clear the decks: Removed all bedding and cushions from the aft cabin along with the aft wooden panel that traverses the cabin.
b) Cut the water tank: A 'cutting line' was drawn on the water tank sufficient to provide free movement of an Edson tiller arm. The water tank was then removed and sent to a specialist polypropylene fabricator. The re-fabricated tank was back in two weeks; I believe I have lost less than three gallons in capacity.
c) Edson tiller arm: Product #926-10-610MKII, bored by Edson to 2.86". This was positioned just below the Edson steering radial drive-wheel. Integral clamp bolts were then tightened so that tiller arm was 90° starboard of the rudder position. Once absolutely sure we had the correct angle, the rudderstock was drilled and the tiller arm clamped and bolted.
d) Raymarine linear drive: The drive (product #M81130) was positioned on the starboard underside of the aft boarding platform so that the drive arm made a 90° angle to the tiller arm. Whilst there are a number of connecting holes on the tiller-arm that can be selected for the drive arm to attach, we wanted to position it towards the outer ones in order to obtain maximum leverage. Once a 90° angle was established, holes were then marked and drilled in the platform and the drive unit bolted with the Catalina Flush-head bolts – product #000531.
e) Raymarine Actuator Control Unit: Product #E70099 was installed under the heads sink unit. Taking-out the locker doorframe provides better working access to install the ACU.
f) Raymarine Sensor Core: Product #E70096 was positioned in the starboard locker forward of the Holding Tank as we wanted to keep it clear of any electro-magnetic interference. Looking back, I think we were a bit over-cautious and this could have been installed below the heads sink along with the ACU.
g) Install the Control Head: Product #E22166 merely was a replacement for the old ST60 control head used on the ST 4000 wheel unit. The STNG Adaptor Kit product #E22158 was installed within the instrument pod and is a simple 'plug and play' unit.
h) Rudder Reference Transducer: In addition, we used a Rudder Reference Unit Product #M81105 which while not essential, is recommended by Raymarine. Unfortunately, I did not find anywhere suitable to mount this, so I had to screw and glue a piece of marine ply to the underside of the cockpit deck; not great to look at, but it works and is out of sight below decks.
The Raymarine Evolution System #T70158 includes the drive, ACU, sensor core and control head. The system has a simple to use, dockside set-up procedure and hence it was soon working. Once we were satisfied with its operational status, we inserted and re-strapped the modified water tank along with the aft panel in the stern cabin; lastly a beer or two.
Five seasons later, I am extremely pleased with this Autopilot, as it is silent, reliable and simple to use. In 2016 my son-in-law (who also had a C34 MKII), installed the same system. Shortly afterwards he did a round trip of 3,000 miles from Chichester, UK to The Canary Islands off North Africa and was pleased with its performance.
Anybody interested, the original article inclusive of photos was featured in Mainsheet magazine Vol.36, No.4 Winter 2018 - I can also email article with photos.
#7
Main Message Board / Garhauer Rope Clutch Spring
November 30, 2019, 07:04:24 AM
I have Garhauer rope clutches on my C34 Mk2. The starboard spring (on my outer clutch, starboard side of boat) has become unclipped from its aft retaining mount on the cam. Anybody got any ideas on how to re-clip the spring without dismantling the clutch.
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