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Good Afternoon, it appears that I have been forced into the ZF 10 transmission breakdown group.  SV Graylin is a 2004 Catalina 34 Mk2. It has an M35B Universal engine.   I understand that the new replacement ZF 12 is a more robust transmission.  I am wondering if anyone has changed out the Z10 with the Z12 with the same engine as Graylin.

I have reviewed many of the Message Board comments but can't seem to find the same Catalina Model and engine combo for the Z12. From the internet it seems that there may be a need to raise the engine.  The Z12 is a somewhat larger transmission and I am wondering if I will need to shorten the shaft to accommodate the larger transmission or if there will be sufficient room. The gear ratio seems to be a bit different and wonder if a new prop would be required in the process.  At the moment, it seems that the transmission can be pulled without pulling the engine but not certain.

I contacted the Beta Dealer in Victoria BC thinking that they may have a transmission that would work.  He was confident that any of their transmissions would require "a lot" of adapting and suggested the ZF12 might be the best bet. 

Has anyone swapped out these transmissions on a M35B?  I would be most interested in your thoughts/ideas. Many, many thanks.

Rod MacDonald

I have been developing my winter project list since May.  I need to replace a few cam locks on the cabin top and will have to drill a few more holes in the cabin top.  I was told there is a metal plate located under where the the bank of spinlocks are located. I don't have a problem tapping new screw holes. I'm wondering if in fact there is a metal plate located under the spinlocks.

Thanks.
Rod
Graylin 2002 Cat34 Mkll

I am hoping to once again call upon the wisdom of the C34 group with a problem that currently stymies me. (2004 Catalina Mk 2 with a Kubota 35 hp) The problem lies between my new group 27 battery (800 cca) and the starter.  When I switch the battery isolater to #1 position (start) the motor turns over and over, without catching.  The moment I turn it to position #2 (house), it starts immediately.  The house is 4 new golf cart batteries. 
Here is what I have done.  I have exchanged my new battery with yet another new battery with identical results.  On the battery isolater switch, I have reversed the start and house battery cable resulting in an instant start on #1 (now the house) and the same feeble result as above on #2.  This suggests to me the battery is fine and the isolater switch is fine.  I have removed and cleaned the battery posts on the starter battery. As well I have cleaned all terminal posts and cables going to the starter.  Using jumper cables, I went from the isolater switch #1 position to the starter battery to isolate the positive cable.  Same result when trying to turn over engine.  I then took the battery cables and jumped from the off/on switch for the motor to the positive post on the starter, same result.  This seems to indicate that all positive cables to/from the battery to the isolater switch  then to the starter are all fine, otherwise the jumper cables would have served to bypass any short in the cables.  To be clear, I did not remove the positive cables from their posts on the battery or isolator switch, I simply jumped them with battery cables.
The fact that the motor jumps into action with the house batteries, suggests that the starter is also fine.  So, I am left with a situation that has forced us back to the docks and scratching our heads in wonder. One added note, I do not have a Blue Seas ACR installed yet.  I would like to first resolve this issue.  If I have missed something, I would appreciate hearing any feedback that might bring this electrical problem to an end.  Many thanks in advance. 
PS. I have read Phils thread regarding starting problems as there were some good ideas that I will test on my boat tomorrow.

I have a concern about the low oil pressure alarm and/or oil sending unit on our (2004) Catalina 34 Mk II (hull # 1677)  .  The alarm stopped working in Aug.  It seemed to inadvertently go on/off then finally it stopped.  After inspection, I noticed oil on the oil sending unit and am thinking that this could be the issue and/or perhaps the wires need to be removed cleaned and re-installed before rushing out and purchasing the oil sending unit. 

The other issue might be the actual alarm which I believe is located in the pod that houses all the other gauges eg. fuel, water temp etc.  There is a large (round and serrated) nut that contains and holds the starting button in position.  It just doesn't want to move.  Because of its shape, I'm  limited by tools to remove it ie. large plyers, yet it simply doesn't move. Any hints on removing this nut? Of course the other issue might well be a poor connection. Any thoughts about this would be appreciated. The engine is a Universal M35B. Many thanks.

I have two issues that I am seeking advice on and  have decided to keep the issues separate so the threads aren't confusing.

This past summer after purchasing our (2004) Catalina 34 Mk II (hull # 1677)  I waded into the pool of knowledge of the Catalina group and hope I can once again glean some helpful information.

Our Maxwell VW800 windlass has never been overhauled or opened according to the former owner. That follows along the lines of: if it ain't broken, don't fix it. It hasn't caused any grief however, I want to remove it from the boat to clean it, change oil etc. soon after I receive the seal kit for the gear box from Maxwell manufacture.  I was informed by Will Vrooman that parts are still available for this particular model.

I am wondering if anyone has done this job before and might offer some advice over and above the owner's manual. Any hint on dismantling the bulkhead in the V – berth to access the windlass would also be useful.  It looks as if the teak ledges need to be removed in order to get at the bulkhead. Thanks.

Hello C 34 owners. My wife and I are not new to sailing but certainly to C 34 Mk 2's and request some assistance. We are elated with our 2004 C34. We noticed after a long motor, that the aft cabin was very hot and smelled somewhat of a warm diesel engine!  I knew the blower fan switch was located under the Nav pod and flicked the switch to no avail.

I'm wondering a few things: where the fan motor is located, where there might be a fuse to the fan, if the fan is activated by a thermostat and where that might be and anything else you might advise for me to activate the blower. Many thanks for any assistance. Regards, Rod