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Topics - WindyT

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1
Catalina 34s for Sale / 1990 MK 1.5, tall rig, wing keel for sale
« on: February 29, 2020, 10:35:47 AM »
40k firm.  Well equipped / turn-key ready for cruising in the Bahamas. 

See the listing on sailboatlistings.com

https://www.sailboatlistings.com/view/84921

2
Main Message Board / Engine bogs down under load
« on: February 16, 2020, 07:40:26 PM »
Hi folks,
A bit of a puzzler for me. Im currently offshore near marathon and planning to change my fuel filters for the third time in a month tomorrow. Until now Iíve never had any issue with the engine. We are cruising along at 2300 rpm without issue but if I head towards win and out the bow through some larger waves (as when I was in the Gulf Stream two hours ago), the engine will bog down and die unless I take some of the load off by either rolling out the jib or turning back downwind. 
My concern is sediment getting shook up in worse conditions and there was some in my racor when I changed it a week ago after same symptoms.
Iím running a Racor R20S and a Fram P7514. Iím considering changing the Racor to a R20T as a temporizing measure until I get the tank flushed and cleaned.
No water in the fuel. No other changes. Anything else I am missing here?  Thanks for the last minute help!

3
Main Message Board / Keel Hull Joint... rust?
« on: May 21, 2019, 08:47:47 PM »
Hey folks!

Pulled the boat out (1990 Wing keel) today to find a thin crack most of the way around the front of the keel.  But a fairly prominent spot was on the port side (pictured).  Called Catalina who thinks <50% chance rust.  It's a lead keel... so if it is rust, gotta be keel bolts.  They think it may be fairing compound but who knows.  I'm planning to:
A) collect sample and get analyzed for iron content
B) fill the bilge with hot pink food color water to see if any leaks out
C) Torque the keel bolts to recommended spec

Zero of these tests are perfect for rusty keel bolts but there was a substantial amount of this orange stuff and I feel that if it were rust, those bolts would be in awful shape and frankly, they look just fine when I look at them in the bilge.   Would love to hear any thoughts or if anyone has had similar experience! 

4
Main Message Board / House vs starter bank charging
« on: March 19, 2019, 08:18:08 PM »
When connected to shore power, how do folks leave there battery selector switch while charging? 
For example, many people on this forum have the following:  house bank of 4 6V batteries in series/parallel and the reserve / starter bank is a deep cycle 12v of some form.  Does leaving the switch on 'all' affect battery life?  I'm even seeing fairly commonly house bank flooded lead acid batteries paired with maintenance free AGM reserve bank.  My impression was that leaving the switch on all would negatively impact the life of all of the above but I am certainly a novice.

My current setup is 4 150Ah AGM batteries (2 on bank 1 and 2 on bank 2).  Planning to revert to normality with the golf cart + reserve bank but curious how to make these expensive little puppies last!

Please enlighten me.

WindyT

5
Main Message Board / Pencil Zinc Question
« on: April 07, 2018, 04:02:50 PM »
Firstly, yes. I've learned my lesson.  Bought this boat in July 2017 with a brand new zinc and was told it was a once a year thing to check by the guy that surveyed the engine / rebuilt the heat exchanger in June 2017 prior to purchase. I stand corrected as the HX pencil zinc is 99.9% gone. 

Looking for ideas here.  I appear to have an 1/8" zinc with a 3/4" female threads on the actual HX unit.  I had already read about cutting down zincs and was prepared, but the way in which this fits into the HX seems to be potentially unique after the rebuild with a 3/4 adapter liquid welded on top of the smaller (1/2") sized - hard to explain but perhaps take a look at the picture.

My 3 questions:
1) is there any way to just dissolve the zinc so I can re-use the previously jury rigged system?
2) Has anyone had a similar issue / know of an easy way to reproduce this adapter?
3) Should I bite the bullet and just remove the entire HX to make sure no zinc fragments inside / clean it / potentially retap the threads? 

Thanks for everyone's advice!  ... planning to do my seasonal oil change tomorrow.  Here is to hoping it goes a bit better than this pencil zinc!

WindyT

6
Main Message Board / Bumper boats
« on: February 19, 2018, 06:55:40 AM »
Hey folks!

Was at dock this AM, left for a quick jog, and upon my return, I found a neighbor had hit my boat!  I just met him and it sounds like he had trouble with the current and wind while docking.  Fair enough, but I have no idea how hard he hit me.  Looks like it was hard enough to take the gel coat off and was probably a pretty firm strike to the starboard side transom.  Anywhere else I should look for damage when a boat is struck like that?  Nothing obvious in the aft cabin.  I am sure it is fine but just wanted to check with the pro's in terms of looking at structural things after a boating accident.
Thanks!

WindyT

7
Main Message Board / Boom End Caps
« on: July 31, 2017, 09:53:27 AM »
Hey folks!

Planning on upgrading outhaul hardware and have the screws out the end caps on the boom but these bastards are stuck!  I've been using PB blaster and a bit of heat/hammer till hearts content and haven't been able to get them off yet.  I am planning to keep grinding away but just wanted to make sure I'm not missing / hurting anything.  I've read all the prior outhaul articles etc and don't seem to be but starting to doubt myself and wanted to double check.
Thank you kindly!

WindyT

8
Main Message Board / C34 Coolant Recovery Tank - what am I missing??
« on: July 18, 2017, 09:28:30 PM »

Hey folks!

I recently purchased a 1990 C34. Beautifully maintained boat and Universal 35 engine with only 900 hours. That said, there is no coolant recovery tank and when expanding, costly (and toxic) antifreeze had an overflow hose that went directly into the bilge. After some research and phone calls to Westerbeke and Marine diesel specialists, I decided to install a coolant reservoir (all newer Westerbeke engines will have this). See photo for non-final product but an idea of the setup. Anyway, anytime I fill the reservoir, coolant flows directly out of the cap on the manifold and down the side of the engine. This is the stock cap that has a spring loaded stopper and rubber gasket. (planning to replace cap tomorrow as i don't know what else to do).  I suppose the other option is to forgo the modification entirely and continue the old method, I just hate to abandon ye ole project because of what seems to be something simple!

WindyT

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