Menu

Show posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Show posts Menu

Topics - Robert Mann

#1
Main Message Board / Mk II Aft Lockers
April 17, 2023, 06:17:01 AM
A simple question.  How have people cleaned the inside of the stern of the Mk II hull?  Through the aft port and starboard lockers, or by removing the aft water tank and "crawling in", I have zero chance of going through the lockers.

Second point regarding water in bilge.  When there is a heavy storm here I get water in my normally bone dry bilge.  Finally, I think I have found the answer.  The fridge compressor on my Mk II is located in the starboard aft locker, I believe by the factory. In an attempt to duct cool air to the fan they have added a "y" fitting, right above the compressor in the bilge fan exhaust duct (plastic dryer hose).  This Y fitting is open, an I believe in a heavy blow over the stern water gets into the rear of the boat and runs to the bilge.  If you have a similar issue open the starboard aft locker stand on your head and look upwards and you will see the duct, which terminates in the hooded vent on the transom.  See if there are water tracks evident.  This will cause water to puddle in the indentation towards the stern.

#2
Main Message Board / Microwave mounting
May 08, 2021, 11:27:52 AM
I have, after following a thread from Stu, found a microwave that fits in the center cabinet, above the ice box.  Has anyone discovered a neat way of holding their microwave into that space? 
#3
This has been kicking around the boat since we bought her in 2005. 

I suspect it was fitted above the original battery charger, but I'm not sure.

Can anyone identify please?
#4
Attached are a couple of pictures regarding transmission fluid changes.  Two caveats, firstly this is a Mk II boat with an M35 BC engine, secondly I live in Georgia, so no need to fill transmissions to the top and suck fluid out with a turkey baster during and after winterization. Of course a little ATF might make turkey taste better.

If you will remove the cabinetry in the aft cabin, that sits over the rear of the engine and the tranny, most work on that end of the drive line is super easy.  Six screws and turn slightly and lift and it is out of the way.

Now it is possible to get a 17mm combination wrench on the drain plug and on the filler/dipstick, without use of extensions and crows foot sockets and without skinning knuckles and adding to the swear box kitty. 

I use a Weber BBQ foil tray, from Home Depot, by the dozen, it will take 0.35 liters and still allow you to carefully pull it from under the transmission to retrieve the drain plug, because its going to fall in!  I usually manage to get a little on the floor under the transmission, which is easily wiped up, and I do unsnap the carpet in the rear cabin just in case a wayward power boat wake catches me in mid action.

With clear access a regular funnel or a transmission funnel allows easy, clean refilling.
#5
Main Message Board / Head Pump Replacement
December 06, 2020, 04:05:13 PM
Has anyone replaced the Wilcox Crittenden Headmate pump assembly with Raritan PH II pumps?  By this I mean just the pump, not the bowl base unit.  Seems as if the Raritan pump will drop  onto the same mount as the Headmate.  Mine is dying by degrees and parts have now completely dried up from my normal sources.  I figure I have one more "pull it apart" and mix saved old parts with the existing ones.
#6
Main Message Board / Warning alarm back working
October 26, 2020, 08:52:23 AM
With much help from Ken Kloeber I have the warning alarms fully functioning.  It is a strange system, and I ended up replacing a good number of parts.  The original issue was a weedy sounding alarm sometimes, progressing to no alarm at all.
1)  the oil pressure switch had a loose terminal with an oil drip,  so I replaced with a NAPA OP6624SB,  2-7psi normally open switch. The original switch checked out good.
2) the plastic key switch fell apart, I replaced it with a Cole Hersee, brass unit M-550- NO from Defender
3) once i was sure these parts would hold up I finally figured out there was actually 2 problems.  The buzzer itself was bad, checked by testing across the battery. It was replaced with the original part Z4180 from Catalina direct.  Also, the ground at the glowplug solenoid was poor.  I removed the ground connectors and cleaned the bracket really well with emery cloth and put the grounds together on the same side of the bolt.

Once the above was done, there was battery voltage 14.2 volts at both sides of the buzzer when the engine is running with oil pressure.  When the engine was stopped with zero pressure, there was battery voltage on the buzzer +ve terminal and 8.4 volts at the buzzer P terminal (pulsing alarm terminal) with the alarm screaming.  Previously I had battery voltage at both sides of the buzzer when the engine was stopped, hence no alarm. 

I had checked the resistor and it checked with 997 ohms.  After everything was working I soldered a new resistor pigtail and a spare.  I did this because I wanted to be sure nothing was corroded.  I got the resistors (1000 ohms 1/2 watt) from Amazon $6 for 100 pieces!!! I didn't replace the 10A breaker as it checked good.

The system now wakes the dead. 

As mentioned Ken's help was massive, I believe we figured out how this circuit works, with voltage flowing in different directions, depending on the oil pressure switch status, open or closed.  The way the wiring is run and the connection points makes for a load of potential failure points.

All of the above not withstanding, I think Ron's solution of ripping it all out and wiring a normally closed oil pressure switch into the system makes for the most reliable system.




#7
Main Message Board / Fixed Portlight Tint
October 01, 2020, 10:39:22 AM
Has anyone involved in the replacement of Mk II fixed portlights, no frames, no screws, discovered the correct tint for the acrylic?  I have found a reference on the C350 forum to Grey 2064, but I am not sure if this is correct.

I have a leak in the sealant around the rear most starboard fixed portlight and I am about ready to try and saw a replacement myself if I cant get the original out in one piece and reuse it.  It looks like Performance Plastics have a variety of tints and will sell partial sheets sawn to say 10" x 48" .  I only need the one portlight so I hate to part with $500 - $700 for a set.
#8
Main Message Board / ST4000+ autopilot
September 20, 2020, 07:32:13 PM
Can someone with a MK II boat, normal Edson wheel, standard Seaward panel, fitted with a Raymarine ST4000+ auto pilot tell me the following.

Is your actuation motor mounted at 4 o'clock or 10 o'clock on the wheel (looking at the wheel)?  Having replaced the belt in mine and adjusting the clutch it dawns on me the lever does not fully engage on the down stroke as it collides with the instrument panel.  Mine is in the 4 o'clock position.  If I turn the rear mount to the alternate position, 10 o'clock, the lever now lifts up to engage and goes through the full travel. 

If swapping positions is a solution I will need to find an alternate wiring method.

Any thoughts?
#9
Main Message Board / Finally replacing the Martec prop
September 08, 2020, 08:20:08 PM
I have finally got around to replacing the Martec prop and PSS bellows.  Coupling came off easier than i had planned, PSS came out as expected, the propeller needed a little heat, 3 jaw puller and a good rap on each side to spring it loose.  Then came the unplanned surprise. To fit the Martec the installer cut off the end of the shaft where the cotter pin fits, meaning there is no cotter pin hole in the threaded part of the shaft.  I have just sufficient threads for a narrow and thick propeller nut, so that's good, but i will have to drill through the outer nut and the stainless shaft threads to lock the nuts with a cotter.  Has anybody any experience in drilling stainless with a hand drill?  Or has anyone tried different locking methods for prop nuts? I don't want to consign my nice new Campbell Sailor to the deeps.
#10
Main Message Board / DIY Boat Owner Magazine
August 21, 2020, 07:53:02 PM
Up until about 2010 one of my favorite boat magazines was DIY Boat Owner Magazine. It covered both sail and power boats. Recently I stumbled over the following Australian marine discounter's website, which has all the back issues.  While the electronic articles are dated, the basic stuff is still good.  Check it out.


https://www.whitsundaydiscountmarine.com.au/buying/better-boating-guides/diy-boat-owner-magazine-the-complete-marine-mainte/
#11
Main Message Board / Documentation Reminder
May 12, 2020, 08:56:05 AM
Just a heads up.  As every year, I almost fell for the letter from the Vessel Documentation Portal offering to renew my documentation for the princely sum of $75.  The last fee I paid directly to USCG was $26, if I remember correctly.  Remember these guys are private company offering to renew your documentation for a healthy fee.
#12
Main Message Board / 2002 Mk II Hatch
February 03, 2019, 04:01:07 PM
I have been a victim of a small intermittent leak from the front left side of the main salon hatch.  This a Lewmar 20.25" approx square hatch.  On removing the inner trim I found the problem is more than a minor leak.  The inner trim has enough of a channel around it to hold water and cause some rot in the core as it creates a pretty reasonable seal against the ceiling.  The good news is the hatch is bedded in Butyl tape so it will be easy to remove and re-bed.  Fixing the core, not so simple, so any tips on this would be appreciated.

This leak has been there for a long time, and appears to be from the hatch bedding and only shows up after the channel gets sufficient water in the channel to leak over the inner lip.  The lip into the hatch recess in about 1.25" deep so seals up to the aluminum frame. 

If you have a Mk II, I would remove the inner trim, by removing the screen clips (flip the little caps off with a pocket knife) and check that you do not have a hidden leak.

As Ron says, just a thought!
#13
Main Message Board / Xantrex Temperature Sensor
September 18, 2018, 10:16:19 AM
I have a Xantrex Truecharge 40+ that is still performing well after 10 plus years, of plugged in (not looking to restart that thread again:).  Does anyone happen to know the part number or model number of the battery temperature sensor that is compatible with this model of charger?  Not sure if one is still available, but worth a search.  I can't seem to wake the Xantrex guys up on their website which leads me to be pessimistic about the availability of a BTS or if there is a newer one that works.   
#14
Main Message Board / 3 Bladed fixed propellers
April 17, 2016, 07:37:59 PM
I am ready to change the noisy, rattling folding 2 blade prop on my boat. I am looking for better performance in reverse in tight spaces as well as doing away with the lag forward to reverse and vice versa. Does anyone have experience  using the 15x10 prop from Catalina Direct?  Or is there a better source?
#15
After sifting through a ton of information concerning asymmetrical spinnakers I cannot find a good answer to the issue of tack attachment on a 34 Mk2.  I have tried my chute out using the bail on top of the anchor support, but I agree with all comments that this isn't reliable and the anchor roller support is meant for compression not tension loads.  My anchor roller support is directly in front of the fore stay, so the Mk 1 set up of a shackle attached to the fore stay isn't an option.  Could someone share with me a photo of their solution to this please?  
#16
Main Message Board / PSS Shaft Seals
March 29, 2015, 08:26:16 AM
Please excuse me for opening up an old topic, but I need some advice.  I have just returned from a 6 year overseas posting and I am beginning to get my boat operational again.  She was left in fresh water with good bottom maintenance and occasional cleaning.  Engine fired and runs well, no problems there, but I have noticed some leakage from the PSS shaft sealing system when the boat is underway.  There does not seem to be leakage when she is stationary.  Boat is a 2002, and as such a bellows replacement would be in order, but not happening in the next few months, until I can haul out.  Does anyone have any similar experiences with the PSS and any advice on how this type of leakage can be cured?  There seems to be a school of thought that cleans the sealing faces with very fine wet and dry, but this seems a little counter to the operating principle of the system.  Any input appreciated