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I have been adding R-22 ~ annually to the a/c for the last couple years.  The a/c is a Taylor Made/Cruiseair Model FX-16P, a 16k btu split system (compressor and 2 condensers) which is likely original to my 2001 C34.  Last year I paid a marine air conditioning guy $800 to charge and troubleshoot the problem.  He believes there is a slow leak near the condenser in the rear berth, which is a real problem to access.  His assessment is it will take 10-15 hrs to repair, about the same hrs as replacement.   

My questions are:
* Has anyone successfully repaired a freon leak on a Cruiseair 16k split-system?
* Has anyone replaced their entire Cruiseair 16k split-system?
* If so when, what brand and model # did you go with? 
* Did you do the install yourself or pay a marine a/c guy?
* Did you go with another split-system or a self-contained system(s)?  My a/c tech likes the idea of 2 self-contained 7k btu systems since it would be difficult to run 4"-6" duct fore and aft from a unit in the cockpit locker. 


I can find nothing about replacing the a/c on a MKII after searching the Message Board and Tech Wiki. 

I have a 3.5 hp Mercury/Tohatsu dinghy outboard. While changing the impeller I accidentally lifted the water pump housing assembly and the shift linkage and drive shaft unseated from their connections in the lower unit.  I've successfully reattached the lower unit to the engine, but now it will not shift into forward.   Maybe the drive shaft or shift linkage is somehow not connected to each other or the propeller correctly.   I don't think it's an upper linkage adjustment because after detaching the lower unit a second time, the propeller would not engage gears when manually lifting the lower unit linkage. Does anyone have suggestions regarding how to troubleshoot and get it to properly shift into forward?

The port side rear fixed window is cracked and I'm planning on replacing it with one from Catalina Yachts in Seminole FL. However, the window frame (as well as a couple others) is also split and I'm concerned this may cause a replacement window to fail soon after it's installed. This is likely not due to lifting the hull since it's been three years since the last bottom job. Has anyone experienced similar problems with C34 window frames and/or windows? Does this look like a structural issue?  Any suggestions for repairing frame splits before installing a new window? Thanks for your thoughts.

My AB fridge was tripping the "Refrigerator" circuit breaker on the DC panel.  After searching for frayed wire, I swapped the wiring to the breakers for the "Steaming Light" & "Refrigerator" and after a week the breaker has not tripped.  It's time to change the breaker.

The breaker has "Airpax Cambridge MD" imprinted on it, has a sticker with "I 10 D 72", and is approximately 2" x 3/4" x 1 3/4"H.  Does anyone know the model # of this 10A breaker and the best place to buy a replacement?

I haven't done maintenance on the heat exchanger since buying the C34 four years ago.   Yesterday I removed the end-cap from the HX inlet side to inspect the heat exchanger's condition. The good news is there was little to no debris inside the HX and the tubes look to be in good shape.  I had a few issues [see below] and would appreciate comments for future reference.

Before removing the end-cap, I closed the raw water inlet thru hull. After removing the endcap, I assumed raw water would leak into the bilge and stop fairly quickly after some drainage.  Well, raw water just continued to drain...drain...drain, and never did stop running onto the floor and into the bilge.

After cleaning and replacing the gasket, o ring and end-cap there was no raw water flowing through the system.  After removing a small amount of debris in the thru hull and replacing the gasket on the raw water pump [which appeared to be incorrectly installed], raw water began flowing again.  I'm not sure if these things were enough to obstruct the raw water flow.

While installing a PSS dripless seal 3 years ago, the yard removed the zinc from the HX and ran the water from the PSS to where the zinc was previously.  They said you are primarily in fresh water so no need for the zinc.  I only figured this out a year after it was done, but it's always bothered me.

*Why did the raw water not stop draining when the HX end-cap was removed?
*Is there a need to prime the raw water pump after removing the HX end-cap?
*Maybe I oversimplified the HX servicing process.  Step-by-step procedures would be helpful. 
*Should there be Permatex or something else applied to the gasket?
*Should I remove the other end-cap to inspect and clean, or not worry about it since the inlet side looked good?
*Is HX servicing an annual maintenance process to be done?
*Should I look at re-installing the HX zinc next year when doing a haul out and bottom job?

Thanks in advance for your replies and comments.

Today, when I logged into this website a notification saying "website not secure" popped up. How do we get rid of this problem?

In the last 4-6 weeks the AC and heating unit has developed a problem and shuts down after a few minutes running time. The error code on the SMXii controller is "LO PS."   FYI, it shuts down and displays LO PS in both heating and cooling modes.

It's my understanding the SMXii HI PS error code indicates a lack of cooling water through the system, and the LO PS error code indicates a lack of air flow through the system.  I've cleaned the air intake filters, and the coils look relatively clean.  I've not checked the freon level as I don't know the pressure spec and procedural steps to do this. 

If anyone has any suggested troubleshooting steps to resolve this problem it will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks to all for your help and may you have a Merry Christmas and a happy New Year.

I have been having refrigerator, battery, battery charger and CO alarm issues for the last couple of weeks.  The question now is do I need more troubleshooting procedures, or is it time to replace the battery charger?  If so, what battery charger should I install?  I am certainly no expert on these things, but I've read a lot on this website and others recently and know much more than I did a short time ago.

Here's some background and recent sequence of events:
The Adler Barber Cold Machine stopped working, and it now appears I have a freon leak and have battery problems since the fridge shuts down if batteries drop below 10.2A.  Advice I received from a refrigerator repair tech is to fix the battery issue before attempting to resolve 12v refrigerator issues.

Two years ago Yat had 2 4D batteries with 270 total amp hours. Last year I replaced one 4d with 2 Trojan T105 6V batteries. Due to the fridge shutting down and a dead cell, I recently replaced the other 4D battery with two additional Trojan T105 batteries. Wow, I now have 450 amp hours.  The downside is the Truecharge2 20A battery charger is now acting up.  Even when the batteries are charged up to 14.5A the charger continues to run at 40% capacity rather than cycling to less than 5% capacity as expected. Also, while sleeping aboard this weekend it appears this overcharging situation created a enough hydrogen gas concentration to set off the CO alarm. Wow, a refrigerator problem can really snowball. 

I called Xantrex tech support who suggested a hard reset of the charger to see if it would return to float mode and the ready light would come back on when batteries are fully charged.  Well, that didn't work and the charger continues to operate at 40% or more of capacity.  Tech support also recommended if and when replacing the unit to upgrade to at least a 40A charger because of the 450AH battery bank. They suggest a charger with 10-20% of AH capacity.

I would appreciate suggestions for troubleshooting the battery charger.  And if I must buy a  battery charger because the current unit is at its end of life, what make and model charger would be best for a C34 with a house bank of 4 Trojan T105 6v batteries?

Looking forward to solving this so I can move on to troubleshooting the refrigerator problem.

I am changing the furling mainsail downhaul line and having problems removing the old/existing line.  I assume to remove the line all that needs to be done is remove the mainsail, unscrew the line from the screw, remove the set/allen screw, and the line will come out.  Sounds simple, but...... the set screw is frozen in place and won't move. 

For those with experience changing the downhaul, what was your process? How to go about removing the set screw?  How to thread the new line through the furling screw? After threading the new line through the furling screw should there be a knot or something to stop it from being pulled out or does the set screw do this?

Thanks for your replies and suggestions.     

I love the furling mainsail but have problems unfurling it.  Problem is the main hangs up on the last 6-10 inches of luff when unfurling, i.e  it gets stuck on the last turn of the foil inside the mast.  Generally I must release the outhaul to relieve pressure, then must often go to the mast and manually pull on the main's foot to get the sail all the way out.   

I removed the main and lubricated the upper and lower bearings.  The foil turns freely with the main removed so no hang-ups there.  All I can figure is the thicker head material is somehow bunching up and preventing the last section of the sail from turning.  This is my only theory and likely totally wrong.

Does anyone have this problem or have suggestions on how to fix or troubleshoot it? 

FYI, I believe it is a Charleston Spar..  Does they provide tech support by phone or otherwise?

I'm planning on replacing running rigging and have a few questions.  My owner's manual and other specs I've found have limited info. 

Does anyone have specs for the furling main inhaul and outhaul, as well as boom vang? 

A prior post for mk 1.5 running rigging suggested increasing the genoa sheet from 7/16" to 1/2" to make the winch tailer hold better.  Does this add friction and make pulling out the genoa and sheeting more difficult?

Thanks in advance for your replies.

The tachometer light bulb stopped working and now I'm unsure of rpm when motoring at night.  The tach is located in what looks like a Navpod enclosure.  I disassembled the enclosure and don't see how to access the bulb as the back of the tach looks to be sealed and caulked in place.  Does anyone know how to access and change the bulb?  How about the bulb part number and where to get one?  Thanks in advance for your replies.

Last Saturday started the M35B and the low oil pressure light and alarm remained on with the engine running.   This is a first! The next day topped off the oil and started her up again.  Same low oil pressure light and alarm problem.  Don't know if this is an oil pressure switch or a more serious engine issue.

I am not much of a diesel mechanic so if anyone could provide detailed troubleshooting steps it would be appreciated.  Would it make sense to change the oil pressure sender to see if this solves the problem?  Do you know who sells parts in the Gulf Coast area for Universal M35B?

Thanks in advance for replies.

My Seaward S-600 hot water heater is popping the pressure relief valve.  Some prior posts suggest changing the thermostat and pressure relief valve.  I have the parts and am now ready to install.  It looks like the water heater will need to be removed to install them.  Is this correct? I'd appreciate suggested detail instructions from anyone who has changed water heater parts.  Do I need to remove it?  What about the water lines?  Any tricks or things to keep in mind?

 I'm in the market for a new chartplotter and have been looking at sailboat specific displays that nicely display tack lines, lay lines, sailing time to waypoint, start lines etc.  The ones I am looking at are the Raymarine e7, Garmin 7407, and B&G Vulcan 7 or Zeus 2.  The Vulcan 7 looks great for the price but I am not sure how it will integrate with my Raymarine ST60 instruments or 4000+ autopilot.  Anyone have experience with one of these chartplotters? What are the good, bad and most useful features? Any suggestions or comments are welcome. 

Please help me find and change the sacraficial zinc anode on the heat exchanger.  From prior posts on this site, I understand it's difficult to get to but I can't even find it.  I've searched from every access point and felt around the underside of the HX and still can't find it. If and when I find it how do I change it?  Type of tool, size, steps, tips and best access point?  I know the 2nd time changing wil be easier than finding it. Thanks in advance for your help.

When spending a weekend at anchor or in a marina it would be nice to fill the bow water tank so there is extra shower water.  Does anyone know how to use the bow water tank versus the main/stern tank?  If filled I want to use the bow tank water first to avoid "bow down" trim when under way.  Is there a valve somewhere to open one or the other water tank?  FYI, I have a 2001 mkII

Is my Genoa is a 135% or a 150%?  I understand the ratio is the luff perpendicular compared to the J.  Since J is 13'6", that would indicate a LP of 18'4" or 20'5".  My question is how do I measure the LP?  Can I measure while on the boat unfurled or do I need to remove it from the furler and lay it in the grass?

I am the proud "new" owner of a 2001 C34 MKII.  Love the way it handles and interior but don't understand the helm design.  After standing at the helm for 24 hours over a couple days on the ICW, I put an ice chest at the helm to sit on.    Helmseat.com has something that looks great but they stopped making 'em a couple of years ago.  Also, I saw the article in the latest Mainsail on fabricating one and this is an option, but with all the C34s on the water there must be other good solutions.  So, what do you do on your C34 MKII for a helm seat?    It must be movable to allow access to the swim platform.  Thanks in advance for replies!   

Just purchased a 2001 C34 and love it, but the PO did not take an interest in keeping the instruments functional.  Now have the wind, speed and depth instruments working but no such luck with the ST 4000+ wheel pilot.  The PO said it never really worked well, so I am guessing something is wrong with the install.  The flugate compass is mounted under the sink in the head and appears too close to the engine. Also, there is no rudder referance sensor installed.  Question is...does anyone have an ST 4000+ installed that works well?  If so, where is the fluxgate compass and do you have a rudder referance sensor installed?  Any other suggestions on how to troubleshoot, configure the unit, and get it working will be appreciated.