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Topics - Noah

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1
Main Message Board / My latest boneheaded boat mistake
« on: October 15, 2021, 05:46:01 PM »
Getting ready to haul out for “every-three-year” bottom job. This time I plan to change cockpit drain hoses. I noticed cracks in hoses when redoing autopilot bracket and replacing exhaust hose last year, but I didn’t want to risk trying to replace them while in the water incase through-hulls cracked while changing hoses. So now that I will be on the hard, I will get hoses replaced and perhaps through-hulls as well. In preparation for this I had to remove the aft water tank (again), and remove autopilot ram and bracket (again). Fortunately, I redesigned the new autopilot bracket tower for “easy removal” to provide aft access. Still a PIA.

And… since I had all open… I filled the hidden bilge pockets in front of and and behind the skeg with expanding closed cell urethane foam topped with epoxy resin and two coats of Bilgecoat paint. Looks good and boat is now ready for yard haulout on Monday.

THEN… when I was leaving the boat today, all ready for Monday’s haul-out, I did one of my most boneheaded boat mistakes. I decided to top off the starboard water tank to make sure I had water while in the boatyard. I got distracted by “things” while filling the tank and I started putting water in the aft water tank deck fill by mistake. Yes, that is the same aft tank that is REMOVED and now being temporarily stored on its end in the head compartment. I only let flow about 4-5 gallons before I realized my mistake.  Fortunately, the deck fill hose was angled such that it didn’t dump water on my “new” fridge compressor, or much on the fresh bilge paint that I did this morning. Also , luckily, the Bilgecoat paint was dry to the touch and water just rolled past it.  I had previously removed everything from the aft cabin (cushions, etc.) before I started working there this week, so the water just pooled on the gelcoat bunk pan and into the engine bilge (which is “always” clean and dry, so no oily mix). Sponge, towels and rags took care of it. Whew!!! Dumb!
What was your latest boneheaded boat mistake??? They say confession is good for the soul :abd:


Sent from my iPhone

2
Main Message Board / Sugar scoop transom thru-hulls/skin fittings
« on: October 02, 2021, 08:04:20 PM »
I am hauling out in two weeks for my every three years bottom job and misc. maintenance/repairs. The big PIA job this year is to replace the five thru-hulls located on the transom and under the stern counter (two bilge pumps on stern and two cockpit drains and the engine exhaust under counter). They are all original nylon and I fear headed for failure. I did change the exhaust hose this year with no issues but didn’t want to attempt the others hose in the water as I feared they might break. I did buy the hose for cockpit drains at the same time as exhaust hose, as it is the same size/type hose. Some years ago I replaced my nylon anchor locker drain which crumbled. It is really tight back there on the sugar scoop boats, so it won’t be fun. I will have to remove water tank (again!), plus my autopilot ram, blah, blah…after locker propane shelf, (be there done that).

Has anyone with a 1990-ish sugar scoop boat changed these out? Any tips would be appreciated. I probably will remove all “obstacles” then have the boatyard climb back there to change them, while I “supervise”. Then I will reassemble the boat all back to “sailable”. I will probably go with nylon fittings again but might see if glass reenforced fittings are available. There are no valves involved. I will post how it goes when complete.

3
Main Message Board / Single-handed Anchoring? How do YOU do it?
« on: August 06, 2021, 11:33:23 AM »
Looking for advice: technique/procedures and tips and tricks for solo / single-handed anchoring. What’s your method? Do you drop stopped or in reverse? Drop quick or slowly pay out? How do you keep boat straight when backing? Are you at the bow most of the time??? Running back and forth??? Difference in dropping and retrieval with windlass vs no windlass?  Folks sharing stories/methods on this topic would certainly be helpful (for me anyway). 8)

4
Near-new ATN brand set-up for asymmetrical spinnaker. $300 for both 45ft. sock and tacker.

5
It has come to my attention that some entity has been sending fake emails soliciting/requesting “gift card donations to benefit Covid-19 victims and aid workers “ — utilizing my name and title as the Commodore of the C34 Int. Assoc. These emails are fake, and not from me, nor the C34 International Association.  Please delete them and do not respond to them. We are taking appropriate steps to investigate and stop these.
Thx-Noah Rosenblatt

6
Main Message Board / A perfect February day in San Diego
« on: February 28, 2021, 06:19:27 PM »
Solo-sailing 3-miles offshore; a new mainsail, an 11-knot breeze, a close reach, and smooth water. Doesn’t get much better!😎

8
Main Message Board / Safety harness attachment points
« on: January 22, 2021, 01:49:49 PM »
Stu’s comment about his PO putting a poorly located eye bolts in the floor of the cockpit, prompted this new thread. I installed four strong Wichard folding pad eyes in my cockpit to be used as attachment points for safety tethers.

9
Main Message Board / Winter in San Diego
« on: December 21, 2020, 11:35:28 AM »
Can’t beat it! 8)


10
Main Message Board / Happy Thanksgiving
« on: November 26, 2020, 05:31:00 PM »
Among my many things to be thankful for: sunny California weather, blue tape and new varnish! Happy Thanksgiving to all!

11
I have all the aft spaces open/cleared with bulkheads and water tank removed. While doing repairs on my below deck autopilot (a story for another day) I discovered my exhaust hose is cracking and needs to be replaced. No leaks yet. But I will do it now while “in there”. Does it make sense to replace my exhaust elbow and riser at the same time? Riser and elbow are probably original, but still “working” with no leaks. However, I know they will fail sooner than later. Any reason to preemptively do them now at same time as hose? Opinions requested, please! Due to virus restrictions I am planning to do this work solo. At least that’s my plan. Also, I have a big Racor 500 turbine fuel filter under the head sink that will need to be removed to get access through there. Joy!

12
Just finished a 3-day solo sail to Mission Bay where I tried 5 times to get my 35 lb Manson Supreme anchor to set. No go. It would not bite. Tried in several spots in 12 ft to 21 ft of water.  Ended up using my back-up Danforth, In 21 ft. which set on the first try. Anyone experience this issue in Mission Bay mud or elsewhere in mud with Manson Supreme? Both anchors and chain came-up clean with no wash down needed, so it appears the bottom was not sticky.

13
Main Message Board / What’s in your chartable?
« on: July 29, 2020, 05:34:18 PM »
Staying on the boat tonight and doing a little “clean-up”. Not telling if this is before or after... 8)

14
Main Message Board / Garmin hacked
« on: July 28, 2020, 05:06:06 PM »

15
When legacy equipment dies, finding a replacement can be a pain. My original Nicro/Marinco Day/Night solar vent/fan finally died. Not a battery issue, it’s the motor, which is in sealed case and not repairable. Unfortunately, the original design has been discontinued. I opted to buy the new “replacement” Marinco model for ($160 on Amazon) despite the so-so reviews. However, the Marinco replacement(s) did not fit my boat. They make two sizes. The (4 in.)  model will fit the hole in the coachroof but the solar panel “fan dome” is too large in diameter (9+ in.) to fit on to the coachroof and clear the handrail. So not useable. The smaller model (3 in.) fits the cabin-top space, but the hole in the deck was too large to support the mounting flange. Nothing is easy!
I solved the problem (for me anyway) by using the smaller (3in.) model and filling-in the hole in the coachroof with thickened epoxy, making it 1-inch smaller in diameter to accept the smaller flange mount. I used a 3 in. plastic paint bucket. waxed-it-up and taped into the hole as a mold to pack epoxy around. I removed bucket when dry—took some chiseling and sanding, but came out with a clean smaller hole to mount flange. Made a teakwood ring to finish the hole underside.
The new model vent is a complete redesign: bigger solar panel with a switch on the motor to vent either in or out, and they added a very weak LED light with a switch. The verdict is still out as whether this redesign makes it any better than the old one. It seems to blow less air and motor is still sealed and not repairable if breaks. Will see how long it lasts. Time marches on.

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