Join the C34 Association Today!
[C34 Home] [C34Tech Notes] [C34 Tech Wiki] [Join!]
Please login or register.
Advanced search  

News:

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Topics - mark_53

Pages: [1] 2
1
Main Message Board / Secondary Fuel Filter
« on: June 11, 2019, 06:07:49 PM »
Anyone have a good technique for changing the secondary fuel filter on a M25XP without spilling diesel?

2
Main Message Board / Mast Vibration
« on: July 15, 2018, 10:28:21 AM »
Hi all, just wondering if anyone else is experiencing main mast vibration when the main sail is down and 15-20mph winds hit.  I get a modal vibration that shudders the boat. Not so bad to do damage but noticeable.   I checked my shrouds and fore and back stays and the all seem tight.  Didn't have a rigger check it yet.  Seems like it has always done this.  I don't notice it when under sail and shrouds and stays seem tight. 

3
Main Message Board / Travelers on C34
« on: August 23, 2017, 09:58:53 AM »
I was reading a thread on another board about the use of travelers.  Just wondering how others use their travelers.  I rarely use mine.  I find if I want to let the main out, I just use the mainsheet.  The traveler seems to do the same thing.  I could see how you use it to bring the boom a little closer to center-line but not very much.

4
Main Message Board / Prop and strut prep.
« on: May 06, 2017, 10:18:55 AM »
My boat is out of the water so I took a brass wire wheel to the prop and strut to remove barnacles that were attached. The wheel took most of the barnacles off but could not remove some remnants. See pic. Question, do I just apply prop paint over this or maybe use an acid wash that will remove?

5
Main Message Board / Refinishing Grabrails
« on: April 17, 2017, 08:53:20 AM »
I removed my grab rails last week and have been stripping and sanding ever since.  One side I was able to unscrew the acorn nuts from below and remove the rail without removing any plugs.  The other side I had to remove 4 teak plugs because the acorn nuts would spin the whole screw.  Now it's time to somehow secure the screws from spinning and replace the teak plugs.  My question is should I super glue the screws before replacing the plugs or just clean and anti-seize the treads?  Also, when replacing the teak plugs, should I glue in, varnish in, or press fit? My plan is to seal and varnish with Flagship many coats so glued in plugs may not be necessary.

Another issue is blotchiness.  After stripping and sanding, I applied a coat of teak oil and the rails have many blotchy spots.  See photo.  Bleach did not seem to help much before I teak oiled.  Will TSP or teak cleaner help or is this just the way old teak looks?  I really don't want to sand my rails down to toothpick size.

6
Main Message Board / All in One Solar
« on: March 22, 2017, 11:04:11 AM »
I was at Fisheries Supply the other day and saw these interesting solar panels.  The idea of plugging them in as needed seems to make sense for the non full time cruiser. I'd use on top of the hard dodger when needed.  Looks like an easy install direct to the house bank.  Then, stow below out of the weather when not needed.  As I recall, they were in the neighborhood of $300 - $400. Looks like mounting can be done with Velcro.  Heat dissipation may be an issue.  I have no financial interest.

7
Main Message Board / Winterizing
« on: September 15, 2016, 11:11:14 AM »
This will be my first year pulling the boat out for the winter since I'm expecting to be gone. Never had to winterize before since I kept the boat in the water with no problem. I'm sure many of you lake sailors do this every year so can you share your process and what to be aware of?  I'm planning on emptying my water and waste tanks and adding several gallons of non toxic antifreeze to each. Also want to put AF in the water heater lines but not sure how. Maybe disconnect at the pump and pour in?  I'll run AF through the sea water side of the HX by disconnecting the raw water intake and sticking the hose into a bucket of AF. Also will pour AF into bilge and disconnect bilge pump so when rain water comes in through the mast head it won't pump out the AF. I'm thinking there won't be enough to rain water to over fill the bilge. Maybe also pour a little AF in each drain and head. Am I missing anything?

8
Main Message Board / Voltage drop when glowplugs on
« on: July 16, 2016, 09:05:53 AM »
When I start my M25XP engine and turn glowplugs on, the voltage on the engine panel drops to 10, the lowest reading on my meter. I have a new group 24 start battery. Once the starter failed to start the engine, (no click). I assumed this was because the voltage had dropped to 10v and was not sufficient to start. My question is. Is this voltage drop normal or perhaps a bad glowplug?

9
Main Message Board / New Mainsail Cover
« on: May 03, 2016, 09:39:44 AM »
My mainsail cover is starting to look like moths have eaten it.  Probably sun damage but it may be time for a new cover.  Maybe even upgrade to an attached cover where the sail falls into the cover.  I have been looking around and came across this one.  Price looks very reasonable.  Anyone have experience with this or comments?
http://www.mauriprosailing.com/us/1-Mauri-Pro-Canvas-Mainsail-Cover-MZ-Style/MPCMZ40.html
I should add, I have no affiliation with the company.

10
Main Message Board / Cup Holder Woes
« on: April 06, 2016, 09:28:38 AM »
Greetings:
Installing a single angle pedestal guard with Navpod now makes it impossible to slip the cup holder over the top of the guard. Has anyone encountered this issue before and what solution did you come up with using the old cup holder?

11
Main Message Board / Cutting Switch Panel
« on: March 11, 2016, 04:45:41 PM »
Has anyone had to cut their MK1 electrical panel to install new switches?  Doe it cut without chipping?

12
Main Message Board / Transducers
« on: March 03, 2016, 11:10:38 PM »
I would like to use my existing transducers to link to the chartplotter but I don't know much about them.  Judging by the look, I'd guess they are original equipment on a 1989 MK1.  The chartplotter requires a "600W DSM-compatible sonar transducer connection".  I believe they are Airmar depth and speed transducers. Does anyone know if the are 600W DSM-compatible?

13
Main Message Board / Alternator putting out 17.25 volts
« on: February 09, 2016, 02:15:27 PM »
Hi all, I just installed an ACR with a start isolation feature and connected the alternator directly to the house battery but the voltage at the house battery is now 17.25 volts. Before the switch over, voltage was at around 13.7. Seems like a dramatic change. First of all, is this voltage to high for my two group 27 house batteries?
The other problem with the higher voltage is the ACR goes into lockout mode at 16.0volts and prevents the start battery from being charged. Is there a way to reduce the voltage the alternator puts out?

14
Main Message Board / Chart plotter location
« on: February 01, 2016, 10:17:02 AM »
Hi all, I just purchased a Raymarine E7D. I have been looking at Navpods and mainsail's flat mount for the new baby but am concerned about taking up more space and obstructing visibility and movement in the cockpit. I was thinking one option would be to mount the chart plotter below at the nav table and using a tablet or iPhone at the helm with a sturdy mount and water proof case. I'm not doing any blue water sailing. My question is do any of you C34 owners find your "full featured" chart plotter is in the way in the cockpit? Has anyone else mounted your "full featured" chart plotter below? Also, where do most put the autopilot control head? I can add the control head and E7d to a Navpod but how obstructive will that be based on your experience.
Thanks
Mark

15
Main Message Board / Starter Battery Component Locations
« on: January 25, 2016, 12:42:03 PM »
Hi all, I am installing a dedicated starter battery using the approach that many have suggested. This diagram by mainsail depicts the basic layout of what I am trying to accomplish.



I chose this because I'd like to isolate electronics from engine starting transients.

I have several questions about the best location for components that would give me as little wire routing difficulties as possible.

My current setup is 2ea 4D Grp 27 600CCA batteries wired as separate banks and parallel when the Perko 1-2-B is set to "Both".  They are located under the starboard settee in two battery boxes. My alternator is the factory 55Amp Motorola.  My charger is a Newmar ABC 12-15. I've installed the start battery in the aft cabin under the forward storage compartment just aft of the prop shaft.

From my reading, I will need to...

1) Move the starter cable from the "C" post to #2 post on the Perko 1-2-B switch.
2) Install and ACR, combiner, or Echo Charger from the bank #1 to the start battery.
3) Connect the starter battery ground cable to the engine block.
4) Install a on/off switch between the starter battery positive cable and the starter.
5) Wire the 2 4D house bank batteries in parallel.

My questions are...
1) Which is easier to install, the Echo Charger or ACR?  From what I read, they both work but the ACR requires a much heavier cable which may make cable routing difficult.  I'm not worried about cost since the are probably only a few $$ difference.
2) Given my location of my starting and house banks, where would be the optimum location to install the ACR or Echo Charger?
3) Where would be the best location to install the starting battery on/off switch?  I'm trying to avoid an unsightly or obstructive installation but still be easily accessible.

Thanks
Mark

Pages: [1] 2