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Topics - Set2sea

#1
Main Message Board / Prop shaft "twanging" sound
November 06, 2023, 08:38:09 AM
Toward the end of my New England season this year, I was getting a pretty bad twanging sound from the prop shaft. In August it started as intermittent, by September it had got much worse. When I pulled the boat in late September I did have about 3 inches of growth on the shaft which could obviously be adding to the issue.
After I cleaned the shaft, I started looking for play. It is tight at the cutlass bearing/strut but the play where it goes into the hull is greater than another C34 and C30 in my yard. I seem to have a good tight bolt up at the transmission flange. So my question is: Does the stuffing box/shaft log give the shaft bearing support?
#2
Hello,
I am looking to purchase a flex solar panel system (panel, controller and cables) mainly as a battery charger. I would put this on top of my dodger and I will pull the boom over to the opposite side.
Has anyone bought one recently that they would recommend?
I am on a mooring and you all know that charging situ!

Thank you
#3
I would like to add an opening port to fixed port lens in head. I have seen this done, anybody out there done this and know what opening port to go with?
#4
Main Message Board / Relocating engine stop cable
April 17, 2021, 06:00:44 AM
Has anyone relocated the engine stop cable from the instrument panel?
I find the kill cable being attached to the in instrument panel a PIA when I need to get the the back of the instrument panel.
#5
I was finding the storage under the vee-birth somewhat a PIA to get to with having to lift; or remove cushions all together to access. Certainly not stowage of anything you would want to get to quickly.
So I decided to add a locker on the starboard side just forward of the hanging locker where I could just lift up the end of the bed cushion on that side, pull up a hatch board and access pretty easily.
I added a glassed in bulkhead forward to contain everything. I added a top access panel as well as a louver door for front access. This ended up being a great place to put my tool bag, spares, hardware containers and other repair odds and ends. Before this, when we were loaded up with food and beverage, my tool bag was usually left out on the floor somewhere.
I also added a matching louver door on the port side which is a great place to store fishing poles or anything else long that you can reach in and pull out.)

It really taps into space that was previously pretty much unusable.
For the top hatch board, I epoxy coated plain old plywood but I would like to find the plywood that Catalina used for hatch boards. Does anyone know what that material is called and know if it is available?
#6
Main Message Board / Solar Arch
March 02, 2020, 04:07:14 PM
I have seen solar panels set up off of bimini bars on a C34, aside from that, has anyone put a true solar arch on a Mark 1 C34?
#7
Main Message Board / Water in rudder
May 09, 2019, 09:48:11 AM
Hello All,
I thought I fixed the water in Rudder issue.
As detailed here, I filled the rudder tube with epoxy and gouged out top of rudder where rudder tube goes into rudder and filled with 5200.
For the first year or two the rust streaks down the rudder stopped on the hard, over the course of winter, but this year they have returned - Rust coming out from tube fiberglass interface (where I put the 5200).
Understanding that it is the steel frame inside the rudder that is rusting, my question is: Have there been rudder failures due to this situation? Where the frame loses it connection to Rudder tube?
Thanks
#8
Main Message Board / V-berth storage
April 16, 2019, 01:34:07 PM
In an effort to gain some more storage, I was looking around the v-birth and noticed that the area just forward of the hanging locker, below v-birth, would be a nice spot to maybe partition off from the rest of the v-birth area and either add a door on the front wall or cut a hatch hole. I like the "hatch hole" idea. It would be very similar to the storage area under the forward end of the dinette settee. That area is the extra beer hold. Thinking this new area could be a good tool locker.
Has anybody done this? I saw one post that said to put a door in the front, leave it non-partitioned and it is good for fishing poles or other long items. I may do that on the port side as that area is smaller due to the offset in the door into v-birth.
If I go the hatch board idea, is the plywood with that nice facing material that Catalina used for settee access boards commonly available? What is it called? That stuff stands up to water very nicely!
#9
Main Message Board / Battery system for distance cruising
February 28, 2019, 11:08:39 AM
This season will mark my families 6th year with our cat34.
We are planning on taking a one year cruise on the boat in two years. This cruise will have myself, wife and our two boys that will be 8 &10 leaving New England and heading for Florida, hopefully the Bahamas and who knows from there.

One of the upgrades we will need is refrigeration. I know, I will need to upgrade the electrical system and I am planning on adding solar.
I have been reading on this site and it seems that the way to go is with a somewhat high output alternator and four 6 volt house battery bank and a dedicated 12 volt starting battery.

When I start reading on this site, most of the conversations get deep with details pretty fast and I end up jumping from one link to the next. I did go the Wiki under batteries and read the write up on a golf battery set up.
Currently I just have a two 12V battery bank. My mechanic that just did a valve and injector job replaced my alternator and external regulator with what I think is a pretty standard auto alternator with an internal regulator. His reasoning on going internal was to simplify the wiring. I kind of unknowingly said okay.

So I guess my question is this, with running a refrigeration system (which I have not picked out yet) and solar (which I have not designed yet), is the aforementioned battery set up the way to go, hands down? I know there will be other electrical upgrades along the way but I am just looking for this answer as a starting point.
#10
I want to add a Rocna 15 to my 1988 Mark 1.
Where I moor, there is a requirement for two mooring pennants so I added two bow cleats as many have done. I currently run the pennants from these two cleats over the stock bow anchor rollers. This works out great for lack of chafe on the pennants as well as not buggering up fiberglass forward of cleats.
I can't imagine how the heck I can keep the stock rollers so I can continue to run my mooring pennants over them and add a Rocna and keep it in place on the bow? Has anybody done this? Maybe with a new anchor bar of some sort?
#11
Main Message Board / Electric pump on ice box drain
July 05, 2018, 07:11:54 PM
Have people put 12v pumps on the ice box drain? Will a diaphram pump like one on pressure water system work or does it need to be a sump pump?
Thanks
#12
Hello All,
I had my heat exchanger out for clean and painting. When I went to put her back together, I was questioning myself on whether the rubber sealing washers for the 3/8 bolts go on the inside of the plate or the outside. When I looked at the large rubber gasket between the HX body and end plate, there looked to be an indentation the size of the small screw washer so I put it there (on inside between gasket and HX body).
When I ran the engine for a quick start up, my attention went to a diesel leak at the injection pump bleed screw not the HX. Yesterday I noticed antifreeze under engine and I haven't had time to rerun and trace leak. Of course there is at least 4 other places for a coolant leak, just second guessing the bolt washer?
#13
What do you think - 5200 or 4200 for garboard plug flange with 3 #10 screws?
#14
Main Message Board / Fuel gauge part number
May 23, 2018, 07:46:16 AM
Hello All,
My fuel gauge tests out to be bad. I have skimmed through a lot of troubleshooting threads but can not find one that lists gauge number / where to purchase. Can somebody help me with this?
Thanks
Paul
#15
Main Message Board / Ice box gasketing
April 20, 2018, 06:45:26 AM
I have my counter top out for a rebuild. I have read a lot of write ups on insulating the ice box. Which seems pretty straight forward.  What I am also contemplating is changing the lid flange to something deeper so I have space for a decent gasket.
The factory design on a 1988 does not allow much space for a gasket. I have seen the newer models that have a good looking rubber gasket. You are not going to get much of a gasket within the ¾" plywood top thickness. So, I either have to reduce my opening with new flanging or cut back the fiberglass opening to allow for new flanging in an effort to keep opening the same.
Has anyone done this?
I have seen a lid set ups sold by Rparts but they are very expensive and appear to be either too small or larger which I might have to cut counter anyway?
#16
Main Message Board / Fuel line to fuel filter
March 28, 2018, 09:19:29 AM
My fuel line that goes from what I believe is called injector pump to the fuel filter has a serious kink in it due to sharp bend before air filter canister elbow. I am wondering if others are like this (picture below). I wonder if the fittings can be adjusted pointing down more so I wouldn't have such a sharp angle.
You can also see a pretty crackled fuel return line in the picture below my arrow. I need to get the size of that, which I think I have seen in some write ups at 1/4 OD or ID? Is it advisable to use regular hose clamps instead of the clip type hose clamps that came from factory. I saw Ron's idea of leather in between clamp and hose to reduce cutting into such a thin hose.
#17
Main Message Board / Galley overhaul
December 05, 2017, 10:03:54 AM
I am in the midst of a galley overhaul on my 87.
It started with looking into why the drawers were dropping down. I took the drawers out after the boat was hauled for the season and found that the 1/4" panels that support the drawer slides were delaminating. I removed the whole drawer bank including face frame and have to rebuild the whole thing.
Next I moved on to removing hot water tank and pressurized water system. I have had the boat 5 years and have never used hot water or pressurized water. We go with a foot pump for sink water, gallon spring water for filling a pot and solar bag or on shore shower. Having all that mess out of there reduces water connections like crazy and frees up a big storage area under sink. It also clears both sides of engine bed where hot water hoses came up and supply and return to head sink. Head sink will be a Whale hand pump off of the rear tank.
I will remove the small drawer under the sink and install 2 doors there, like the new Cat's have.
I will re-plumb sink drains, make a nice manifold for fore and aft tank switching. Probably going to do away ice box foot pump drain.
And while all this is happening now is the time to replace the counter top because of rotted corner from PO's leaky stanchion. I have the counter in my garage, have removed all the teak trim, cut the new plywood from old with a flush cut router bit. The size of the new has to be exact of the old or mitered corners of teak trim won't fit well.
After all that I have to rip new ash battens for the galley wall as aforementioned leak has ruined those.
Just a little off season work!
#18
Main Message Board / Counter top Replacement
November 16, 2017, 10:08:17 AM
I have removed my galley counter top due to leaking/rotting from stanchion above (From PO, not on my watch).
The question I have for somebody that has done this Is - Will the teak trim mitered corners of counter stay together? I assume they are glued. I am thinking if they don't stay together, reassembling them and getting tight, mitered corners will not be easy. If they stay together, I can trim and shave plywood/Formica to fit.
Thanks
#19
What do you call the paneling strips at galley and above Nav station? I thought that they were called battens but I am not picking up on that in search.
I need to order some. Where can I get them?
#20
Main Message Board / Leaking tranny fluid
June 01, 2017, 05:39:22 AM
After running my engine on the hard (after a long winters nap) I found a fairly good amount of tranny fluid on my white apsorption pad under the tranny. After the panic that I have to pull my engine and take off the tranny, I decided to make sure I had the fluid down to the right level as I over fill in the off season. I found that I was pretty far over filled still. After I got fluid down to propper level (I know to just bring threads so they just mate, not screwed in), I ran the engine again for about 20 minutes an only found a slight drip of pinkish fluid, certainly not worthy of delaying the season and quite a few $$ in pulling the engine and tranny.
I am wondering if anybody has seen this leaking from over fill?
#21
Main Message Board / Cutlass Bearing Removal
May 05, 2017, 06:59:32 AM
Last night I removed my cutlass bearing I had cracking developing in the keelson fore and aft of the strut as I tightened up my pusher assembly.
I did it in the following manner:
I did not remove the prop shaft. I had a solid plate on the end of the prop shaft. Forward of the strut I had a split tube, two 1/4" thick steel plates with a U-cut and a 1" Dia split shaft collar pushing the cutass bearing aft. I had two 1/2" threaded rods going back to the solid steel plate contacting end of prop shaft.
The cracking started before the cutlass moved. We stoped tightening, heated with a torch and tapped the bearing housing with hammer. The bearing popped loose.
Has anyone seen cracking as I mention while removing cutlass?
Thank you
Paul
#22
Main Message Board / Hood Furler
October 25, 2016, 12:59:40 PM
I just wanted to share something I came across with my Hood furler.
I had been have a bear of a time (to put it nicely) getting the jib all the way to the top of the extrusion. I mean like a 200lb guy with all his weight on the halyard kind of a time. I was afraid I was going to tear the sail. I had a feeling it was the fact that the extrusion sections were not in line. My sail company (Doyle) made me up a foot or so long sect of luff tape with halyard connections top and bottom. By running this up and down the furler extrusion a few times it aligned the track sections. After I did this the jib pulled up with ease. Not sure if this has been written up before, but I was some glad to find this solution.
Paul Barrett
S/V BuddyB
#23
Main Message Board / Rigid Vang / Soft Vang
May 18, 2016, 10:01:55 AM
I just finished installing the Gauhauer rigid boom vang. My next project is to install a Spartite kit.
I am tempted to remove the riveted pad eye that I guess it there for a soft vang? I do have my main sheet block coming off the mast collar starboard.
My question is - Why would you have a soft vang once you have a rigid as I have seen in pictures? Is it just a place to attach a boom preventer when not in use?
#24
Main Message Board / Rotted Teak Holly fllor board fix
January 05, 2016, 06:08:33 AM
Hello All,
My long teak holly floor panel by the mast is rotted out from a former leak. With the long list of other $ consuming projects I have planned for 2016, I would like to fix this economically by splicing in a patch piece or scarfing in a piece.
Does any one have a small panel that they might have kicking around after they replaced panels that would be willing to part with? I will mail you a check for shipping and maybe a few extra bucks.
Thanks
Paul Barrett
#25
Main Message Board / Main sheet hitting new dodger
August 04, 2015, 07:12:04 AM
I had a new dodger made and the main sheet is contacting the forward bar when I tack and when I'm sheeted in tight. I had the boom lifted up when they built it not realizing how much that effected the lie of the sheet.
One solution would be to move the aft block forward probably 3". I don't have a boom vang but I am planning on getting one next season.
Do you think moving the block would be sacrificing control with the addition of a solid vang?
#26
Main Message Board / Main Sail tie up with a Dodger
July 20, 2015, 01:05:04 PM
I have wanted to get a dodger made for my boat for a few years now and am getting ready to pull the trigger. I just thought about how I tie up my main - I stand right where the dodger will be and put sail ties on and make the snaps of the sail cover.
How will I tie up the Main with a dodger?
I do have lazy jacks but I still put sail ties on before cover.
#27
Main Message Board / Dripping Goo
May 18, 2015, 06:16:10 AM
I have had a substance that at first I thought was rust dripping on the V-berth wall just forward of the drawers on port side. It has a sap like consistency.
Has anyone else seen this that can tell me what it is and where it's coming from?
#28
I am about to fill my rudder tube with Gluvit and another epoxy on top of that (after Gluvit cures), how do I not get epoxy on the quadrant bolt as the write up (Ron Hill) says?
#29
Main Message Board / Filling holes
May 05, 2015, 12:34:38 PM
This is going to sound like boat repair 101 but bear with me for a moment.
I recently filled some 1/4"diameter holes in a inclined surface (cockpit combing) with thickened West epoxy. After they cured, I was underneath and could see that the epoxy only was pushed to about half the thickness of the fiberglass.
Here is my question: Would Marine-tex putty be better to fill the full depth of hole?
In the case I am talking about, the half depth fill was okay, but now I am filling holes that I am going to redrill, so I would like full depth fill.
#30
Main Message Board / Rudder repair
April 23, 2015, 05:18:58 PM
For those that have drilled drain holes in the rudder and have filled rudder tube with epoxy, I have the following question:
Can't I tape the drain holes and let the Gluvit that I pour into rudder tube fill them.
Thank you
#31
The jib is awful to get all the way up. It takes all of my body weight to advance it upward. The halyard is becoming black, which tells me the sheave in the mast head isn't turning.
There also seems to be an issue with the sail making it past the joints in the head stay extrusion.
Also, when unfurling, the drum is so full of line that it stops rotation and the jib doesn't furl out all the way. I believe I have 3/8 line on there. As it is, the length of furling line I have on there is too short. I have tried to remove the drum cover and broke the first screw and can't budge the others.
Questions:
Is it common that the sheaves in the mast head stop turning?
Do others with the Hood 800SL have the issue of drum becoming too full before the jib is out?
Have folks dumped this furler for the aforementioned?
#32
Main Message Board / First two years in review
December 31, 2014, 08:00:56 AM
Looking back over 013 and 014's list of projects and improvements on BuddyB, I must say I am very proud of what I have learned and accomplished in my first two years of ownership.
It's fun to make a good list and keep it for a reminder of how far you have come. I learned a long time ago that being ill prepared when climbing aboard the boat to get work done is the biggest waste of time there is. That's why my lists are color coded - Things I need to buy, things I need from home, things I need to check on the boat, things from West Marine (so when I am there I can scan quickly. How many times have you left WM and said ####, I need this for the next project!), things I need to research more on owners site, things I can do in the winter and my favorite color (grey) for things that are completed! I have learned to write part numbers and as much info as I can think of.
The list is long for 2015. I showed 014's list to one of my sailing buddies last year and he said "That's a nice list but you won't get all that done this year". It was nice to prove him wrong!
I could not have done some much in a few years without all you on this site. I tell people, Everything I have ever done on my boat I have read about, studied and have gone through the steps mentally before I pick up a wrench.
Thank you all
Happy New Year
Paul Barrett
S/v BuddyB
#33
Main Message Board / Loose alternator stud
June 30, 2014, 08:08:28 PM
I'm back to alternator not charging. Last season it was the fuse receptacle by the alternator - wire pulled out.  I replaced that last year, that  checks out fine. No problem starting , just not seeing volt meter going to around 14 like it would normally on a low battery. The only thing I found was the positive stud on the alternator is loose to the alternator. I was not able to hold the stud and tighten the nut, the loose stud and nut turned together. Has anyone seen this. Could this be my charging problem.
#34
Main Message Board / Intake out of the water?
June 25, 2014, 10:07:48 AM
While motor sailing this past weekend, I was wondering if the engine cooling intake would stay submerged. Does anyone have a feel for the angle of heel that would put the intake out of the water? My last boat's intake was way too high and would come out easily.
#35
Main Message Board / 2 line reefing
June 17, 2014, 01:04:08 PM
I want to set up my 2 line reefing. I have the picture from the manual and I am still scratching my head with the set up. I looked thru threads here and don't see a basic explantation (I'm sure it's there like everything else, I just don't have the time to keep looking).
As I see it, I need tie bowline to boom block becket, up to reef cringle, then what? Does it simply loop thru cringle and back down to block? Why does the manual show a dotted line like it is going on the port side of the sail. Do I put a cheek block on the cringle?
#36
Main Message Board / Raw water strainer mounting
May 22, 2014, 02:40:15 PM
My RW strainer is not bulkhead mounted, it was just loose in line if you will. I seem to have the same strainer as most others and it has two holes at the top. I am wondering how many people just have it loose in line or if there are any pictures out there of the unit bulkhead mounted? I looked to no avail.
Thanks as always Gang
#37
Main Message Board / Hand rails
May 15, 2014, 06:50:06 AM
I went thru the pain staking effort of removing hand rails last year and rebed with butylene. The port side - No leaks,    starboard, I have three screws leaking. The funny thing is, I thought the starboard came out better.
I followed all of Maine sails recommendations - counter sunk holes, put the cone around the screws.
Two observations I will make using butylene for the hand rails: 1. You seem to want to really crank the screws the get the rails so they don't rock. Is there enough butylene left? (Even though I counter sunk all the holes). 2. The screws that come up from the underside pull and ball up the butylene as they are screwing in, possibly leaving a void?
I am tempted to go to 4200 for these. With the gentle tighten, let set up and crank them down approach.
Has anybody else had leaks after using butylene on the rails? I can't explain why one side no leaks and three leaks on the other side? I think 50/50 aint good enough. Side bar - The vented stanchion I rebed with butylene I thought was leak tight until my drains got plugged and there was standing water over it and it leaked.
The only frustration I had with year one's repairs is the unsucessful rebedding : (
#38
Main Message Board / Glow plug upgrade
April 28, 2014, 02:14:11 PM
I am surveying the glow plug upgrade job. For the connection to the starter -
The starter is difficult to see connections. What I see is a Red jumper from alternator to started and two other red cable studs. I am assuming that the correct one to connect to is where the jumper attaches? Where this stud is hard to get to and the stud nut is already at to top of stud, Wouldn't it be the same if I connect wire from solenoid to the alternator positive (where jumper is)?
#39
Main Message Board / Access port in holding tank
April 25, 2014, 06:15:50 AM
Seeing how the holding tank is basically immovable due to the bulkheads, it is difficult to know if it is caked with crud on the bottom! I expect it is. I bought a 6" beckson port for inspection and cleaning. Before I go into this task, I would like to see if others have done so. On my last boat, I had in inspection port, but I could also lift up the tank to fully empty.
#40
Main Message Board / Fold out counter
April 03, 2014, 06:55:12 AM
I am wondering how many people use the fold out counter to the left of galley sinks. I am toying with the idea of removing and making a teak trash receptacle in its place. I suppose it's a personal choice, as I am cooking and preparing meals, I like having trash within arms reach. Thus far, one of the two sinks has been the receptacle and I would like to get away from that.
#41
Main Message Board / Back stay head bangers
March 26, 2014, 08:09:44 AM
Okay last year was my first year with my C34. Well I can't tell you how many times I would hit my head on the back stay splits. Last night I was aboard and hit with my ski hat on and it didn't hurt. So of course the light went off - I need to cover these bad Larrys with something soft so I don't have a scrapped up head all summer! Wondering how many folks have done this and with what? I'm thinking something in the 3/4" diameter size?
#42
Main Message Board / Oberdorfer rebuild
March 24, 2014, 05:31:01 AM
Okay I read Stu's write up on the Oberforfer rebuild. I pulled the pump off yesterday. I was very please to get her off without any snapped fasteners!!
My question: what is used between pump and engine for seal? There seemed to be some redish/orange sealant?
#43
Hello, I have an 87 C34 and I am in need of a new main, a dodger, auto pilot and Bimini. I have a Bimini frame but no dodger frame.
Set2sea@yahoo.com
#44
I will be covering for the winter with tarps. So I don't have to deal with cutting for the lower stays, I am wondering if it would be okay to disconnect lower shrouds. I would run them to the uppers and bundle together so I just have one stay to worry about instead of 3. Does this sound okay?
#45
Main Message Board / Can we talk Trash?
October 08, 2013, 06:05:14 AM
Where do people on a Mk1 keep a trash bag? Mine always ends up in one of the sinks. I would like to do a little better than that next season. It almost seems like for how I use the boat, the double sink is wasted space. A single on left and trash receptacle covered with cutting board on right seems like a good compromise? I say this cause at some point, I may need to replace counter as the dreaded leaky vented stanchion did a number on that end of counter prior to my ownership.
#46
Main Message Board / BATTERIES
July 22, 2013, 01:52:57 PM
Am I foolish to try to run a C34 off of two Sears die hard deep cycle batteries and a 1 B 2 off switch? I ran my last 31 foot boat like that for 10 years and was never left without enough cranks amps to fire the engine. Last week I went on my first 5 day cruise and was left without enough juice to fire the engine, batteries both brand new this season. It made for a long sail home.
The boat started in the morning. I power sailed for about 45 minutes, shut off the engine and just ran my GPS, cooked a couple of hot dogs on the stove. When I went to fire the engine - No go on battery 2, No go on 1 and No go on both. I cleaned all my connections and still nothing?
Does anyone know of a good marine electrical guy in the Boston area?
#47
Main Message Board / Rebedding hand rails
June 05, 2013, 08:28:52 AM
So far I have rebed stachions, leaking Beckson port, installed new bow cleats and removed hand rails and rebed, all with butylene.
I didn't think it was bad to remove and reinstall the hand rails. It gave me a good chance to inspect 1/4-20's because a number of them had to be replaced due to corrosion. Yes, I have to rebung. Note, 1/2 the screws are 1/4-20s in the rail and 1/2 are wood screws coming up from the cabin. A few of the screw/wood screw holes that were not showing sign of water in the cabin sure let out water when screws were removed. All the more reason to take rail off and rebed all pads.
After rails were removed, I measured the rail pads length. The 2 ends were 1 7/8 lg. and all the rest were 1 3/4. I pre cut all the butly strips in a paper cutted (board with big cutter arm). I covered each pad with (2) 1/2" wide strips. At the 1/4-20 pads, I cut a V notch in the butyl for the screw, placing butyl over pad and marking screw loc on butyl strip paper with sharpie. After the two strips applied, I wrapped the butyl cone around the screw (1/4-20). Of course I counter sunk all the thru holes on the deck, a little larger for the 1/4-20 holes than the wood screw holes.
For the wood screws, I pushed them up thru the deck and wrapped a roll of butyl on them slightly above counter sink surface.
Installing the rail you are able to engage all the 1/4-20's fairly easy before the installed wood screws contact rail. I pushed the rail down till it was just at the wood screws, Then pulled down the rail with wood screws. This is where you need two people - one below screwing wood screws and one on deck to make sure you have found the hole and she is drawing down. If she is turning (My case my wife in cabin) and rail isn't pulling down, you my have to push the rail over a bit to find the hole. Move along wood screws to pull down rail evenly. Once the 1/4-20's come down into the cabin enough to put fender, lock and acorn nut, you can draw the rail down with those. The wood screws will come along for the ride, then you tighten those up. Be very careful to go slowly tightening any non replaced 1/4-20 as I snapped one without too much torque. I wasn't about to pull rail back up and start all over again so I left it. I think neighboring screws have enough compression on the pad to compress butyl. If not, I may drive a wood screw up next to the broken one?

Note: Don't tap out 1/4-20 screws with a hammer if you are replacing like I did because you can split the rail, like I did. Luckily I had epoxy on hand to repair split.

Note: I covered all the holes thru deck with gorilla tape as I wasn't able to complete project in one day and I had rain coming. The tape does a great job of leak proofing the holes.

Another note on Butylene: Butylene doesn't like oil or rust on screws so clean area of screw that butyl will contact.
#48
Main Message Board / leaky dorade vents
June 05, 2013, 07:36:38 AM
My C34 dorade vents leave rust dribble on the galley and nav station counters, even when it doesn't rain, guess even morning dew is enough moisture. Has anyone dealt/fixed this? Hoping I don't need to replace as they aint cheap!
#49
Main Message Board / No thermostat
May 29, 2013, 01:56:24 PM
As I had expected (and commented on prior post) when I took off the thermostat housing (M25-XP), I did not find a thermostat in place!
Oh did I forget to mention I snapped both M6 screws in the process? On my way out to the tool store to get a screw extractor, I spoke with my buddies that have a C34 same year, they told me their thermostat housing was thru bolted (Not tapped as mine was, hex head cap screw and nut). Once I found that out, I said screw trying to get the screw out and perserve the threads (even though I was thinking of opening up to 1/4-20 thread), I am going to drill out the screw and thru bolt it. It wasn't easy drilling out screw but going slowly I managed to drill out and stay fairly straight.
Just wanted to pass that along incase someone else runs into this. For the record, we had one screw that broke with quite a bit of screw sticking out. We heated up the water flange (part that the female thread was in) with an oxy acetylene torch and the broken screw still wouldn't turn - Aboslutely welded in!
After running engine with a thermostat, the temp came up to 160 within about 8-10 mins.
A lot of low hanging fruit on this new C34 of mine!
#50
Main Message Board / Rebedding Bomar hatches
May 28, 2013, 12:31:50 PM
My Bomar hatch lens in the salon needs to be rebed. It is loose on one side. I have purchased a Dow Corning sealant. What I am trying to understand is what the gaskets job is in these hatches. My last boat's hatch didn't have a gasket. The lens just sat in a pocket of bedding compound.
Not understanding this, I'm not really sure what the procedure is. Do I need to remove the gasket and do anything with it? Do I just pull out lens clean caulking and recaulk?