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Hi all,
Had a situation yesterday that I would appreciate your thoughts/opinions.

The boat was at the mooring so I went out to bring it to our dock.  Started no problem.  Later in the day, I took my son and his friends for a sail.  Again, no problems starting.  Upon return to our cove, I tried to start the engine and it was a no go.  Sounded like low batteries - not enough juice to turn it over.  This was strange as I only had the radio and GPS on for about an hour.  I tested the batteries and they were fine.  Tried several times, but no luck.  Fortunately we had a northerly wind (not typical) and I was able to sail to the dock.  We arrived safely (thanks to the help of a neighbors) but that is another story :) .

I tried a few more times with no luck.  Even though the batteries were fully charged, just not enough juice to turn it over.  At this point I thought it might be a bad starter and I would contact a mechanic after the long weekend.

Fast forward to this morning.  Just for the Hell of it, I tried again and it started first try.  No hesitation whatsoever.  This made me think it might be a connection issue.  While the engine was running, I tested the batteries and one had a good charge from the alternator and the other a low charge.  I cut the engine and cleaned all the battery connections.  They were a little "gummy".  I also cleaned the engine block ground (although it seemed fine).  After reconnecting everything, I started the engine (again no problem) and tested the batteries.  This time they both were showing good charge from alternator.

So my question is, can a bad starter be intermittent? Is it most likely that I had dirty connections and should be fine now?  It is a 1990 C34 with a Universal 25xp.  Anything else you can think I should check before I get a mechanice?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Hi all,

I have searched through the forum and see lots of discussion about the inline starter fuse, but not specifically how to replace it.  I have had very intermittant starting problems where I have power at the engine panel but when I engage the starter button - nothing.  Usually I just turn off the key and then try again and it starts no problem.  I have cleaned all the battery and ground connections so looking at the next likely (and easiest to fix) cause of the problem which I believe is to replace the inline starter fuse (pretty sure it is the original so probably fairly corroded.)

This is not my area of expertise so any suggestions on how best to replace would be greatly appreciated.  Do I just cut out the old one and connect in a new one?  Anyone have a suggest of the best one/type to use (I believe it is 20amps?)  Anything else I might be missing?

Thanks,

Greg

Hi all,
I have a 25xp in my 1990 Mk1.5.  The engine has always been very consistent at 165 degrees once warmed up.  The last couple of time I have been out, it doesn't quite reach 160 on the gauge.  Everything seems fine - the rpm/speed ratio is still the same.  I haven't done anything to the engine lately except change the transmission cable.  Is this something I should be worried about?

Thanks

Edit: Was just doing some reading and found someone that said by turning off the valve to the hot water heater, their engine runs about 10 degrees cooler.  I did just turn off this valve, so could that be it?  Why would this cause the engine to run cooler?

Hi all,
I have an oil leak that has developed this season.  No problem last year.  After motoring for at least 20 minutes, I notice a trail of oil underneath the engine.  I have attached a couple of pictures to show the positioning of the leak.  Best I can tell, it is coming down the port side of the engine (as indicated on the picture). Any idea of the source of the leak?

Thanks

Hi all,
Was bringing Sabbatica to her homeport yesterday (approx 40 nm).  Had a beautiful following wind so was motorsailing at 7 knots.  Engine was only revving around 2K rpm.  All of a sudden the engine started choking.  I quickly cut the throttle and shifted to neutral.  The engine never died on its own.  I turned around and saw styroform chunks in the water - I had hit a submerged lobster trap and these were part of the float.  The line was obviously wrapped around my shaft and I was dragging the trap. 


We were able to snag the line with our boat hook and pull it up to tie to a cleat to relieve the pressure on the shaft - it was very heavy!!   Cut the line to let the trap go but was unable to get the line off the shaft.

Luckily we had a good wind to sail back to our starting point.  Was able to hook onto our buoy under sail.  Even more lucky, my sailing partner is a diver so he was able to go under and remove the line from the shaft.  No sign of any physical damage.  Once clear, I checked the transmission fluid and it was fine.  Did a quick test of the motor and it worked fine in both forward and reverse.  Was able to reach normal max speed at normal max rev.

Is there anything else I need to worry about? Anything else I should check?

Thanks,

Greg

PS Lobster season ended here on May 31 but apparently some fisherman still set traps with the floats submerged so as not to be detected.  Every fisherman has a color-coded float and I have kept this one.  If I find out who it is, they will be getting an ear full!!!

I know this is probably an easy answer for most of you but I can't seem to find this hose in the engine manual.  I have the M-25xp and just noticed this weekend that the other end of this hose is not attached to anything.  I can't tell if it has disconnected from something or if it is meant to be like that.  I half think that this is an overflow for the oil but would appreciate some confirmation.

Thanks,

Greg

Just at anchor now after a great day off sailing. We stopped at an island to explore the beach on our way here. Afterwards, the wind was in our face so we motored for a bit. The wind was quite strong so the engine had to work pretty hard. After the wind shifted, we pulled out the sail for a bit but it shifted again and we needed to start the engine. No joy. It turned over but obviously was not getting enough juice to start.

I turned off all electronics and it did start. I had a similar problem last year and it turned out to be bad ground connections on my batteries. I cleaned them up and all was good. Once we anchored today, I checked then again. They looked good but I gave them a cleaning anyway. I tried to start on one battery but no good. I then cleaned the ground connection on the engine and the motor turned over with one battery.

Both batteries are fully charged. I believe I read somewhere that hot engines take more current to start than cold engines so I am not sure if I fixed the problem or the engine had just cooled down. Not sure if it is related, but there appeared to be some black soot on the alternator.

After all that, my question is what else could be causing the problem. If all connections are clean and the batteries are charged, what else could cause slow starting?

Thanks

Hi all,
My 1990 C34 has the infamous Lemar Roll stop hatch.  Like most of them I have read about, it no longer stops on any of the settings so the only way I can keep it open is to wedge a piece of wood under it.  I know there are hinge replacement kits, but after examining it this weekend, I am not sure I want to go that route.  Removing the two hinge pins does not look like a trivial task and from what I have read, it will only be a matter of time before the same problem starts occuring.
I am thinking about converting the hatch to a more "normal" setup by adding a hatch adjuster arm.  My problem is that from what I can see, the only way to attach this arm to the hatch is by drilling through the acrylic hatch itself.  Has anyone does this?  I expect it would be similar to adding a solar fan (which I had on my previous C30).  I was thinking of using a ceramic drill bit.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks,

Greg

Hi all,

Brought Sabbatica back to her home port today - about a 2 hour motor.  In the past, she has always been at a steady 165 degrees.  I noticed during our trip that the temperature would inch up to around 170 and then quickly drop to 160 and repeat.  I was cruising at 2200 rpm.  When I reached our cove, I had to slow down as there was an abundance of lobster traps making for a challenging entrance. The temperature gauge went up to around 200.  It would drop down but more slowly.

The only thing I did to the engine this year was change the impeller.  There is a steady stream of water coming out the exhaust.

Any thoughts on what the issue is and what else I should be checking?

Thanks,

Greg

Hi all,

The windlass on Sabbatica has never worked since I bought her 2 years ago.  I decided today to have a look and see if I could figure out the problem.  After doing some research on here, I believe it is a maxwell VC500.

Bottom line is that when engaged, nothing happens.  I first thought it might be the switch so I wired the positives to the same post (bypassing the switch) and turned on the power.  Nothing happened but some smoke did start coming out of the windlass.  Eventually the breaker popped.  The negative wire was quite hot.

I then took the windlass apart - not really having any idea what I was doing.  My thought was that the negative might be corroded and not allowing enough current.  I cleaned everything as good as I could. 

When it was dismantled, I was able to turn the shaft (with a lot of effort) and it did seem that the drum turned a little.  From up top, I can't turn the drum at all.

I reassembled everything and tried again.  This time there was a slight knock and then nothing.  When I examined the drum, I think it turned about 1/8th of a turn and then stopped.

All of this has led me to believe (and I may be totally off base) that the drum is seized.  Is this possible?  If so, what is the best way to free it?  Any other ideas what might be wrong?

Hope this make sense.  Thanks.

Greg

Hi all,

Sabbatica is at a new boat yard this year and there is no running water near where she is stored.  I have been exploring options to get her cleaned up and have come across several brands of waterless wash and wax.  Has anyone ever used these on their boat?  Any other suggestions of how to clean the gelcoat?

Thanks,

Greg

Hi all,

My windlass is not working and I am just starting the troubleshooting.  There is a breaker on the electrical panel labeled windlass with a light.  I am wondering when this light is supposed to come on?  Is it when the breaker is triggered or when the windlass is actually being used?

I know this is a tough one to answer, but any suggestions on most likely problem?  When I push the foot switch, there is nothing.  I haven't taken the anchor locker apart yet to see what is going on - still trying to get the rest of the boat ship shape.  Any suggestions as to where I should start would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Greg

Hi all,
Took the cover off Sabbatica today  . During my inspection, I found a small (maybe 4 inches) crack along the top of the port side keel.  Nothing on the starboard side. See picture below.  My thoughts are that this is the dreaded catalina smile.  Thoughts?  If so, what do people suggest for fixing?
I have a new cradle and am wondering if there is not enough support of the front of the keel.  The yard jammed in a block underneath the keel to provide additional support (see picture 2).  Should this be sufficient?  Any better way to support the keel?

Thanks for the reading.

Greg

What a great day!  Winds were in the 20-25 knot range today and we were consistently doing above 7 knots upwind.  Coming back on a broad reach and surfing down the waves we hit 8.1 knots on the GPS.  It was only for a second, but it counts in my book :)

I noticed that the mast was shifting a little at the entry point thru the deck.  Not a lot but definitely some noticeable movement.  I have a rubber collar on it but it obviously has a little give.  I have never owned a keel stepped boat before so I do not know if this is normal or acceptable.  Any thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks,

Greg

Hi all,

Was attempting to connect my propane stove today and came across a little problem.  This is my first propane stove (have always had alcohol) so not sure of the proper setup.

I am pretty sure I am ok on the tank side (have a regulator and solenoid).  My problem is on the connection to the stove.  The supply hose was already plumbed right to the stove but was not connected.  I thought it would be straightforward to connect the female end of the supply hose to the male connection on the stove - not so much.  I can get 1-2 threads but that is it.  It seems that either:

1) different thread types
2) different sizes (although they must be very close)
3) the threads of one or both of the connectors are screwed up (although they don't look it)

Is there usually anything between the supply hose and the stove?  If I get to the boat tomorrow I will try to take some pictures to help explain.

Thanks,

Greg

Hi all,

I was replacing the bilge pump hoses today and noticed a steady drip coming from what I originally thought was the pedestal (it was raining).  Upon further inspection, turns out it was coming through the emergency tiller cover.  I didn't know if it was coming from around the edges or the inspection cover so I removed the entire piece.  I couldn't get the inspection cover to open - part of the problem is that I don't have the proper tool to open it (that is on my list of things to get now) so I brought it home.  I was finally able to get it open and I see what the problem is now.  There is a gasket that is a clear/yellowish rubber material that has dissolved and jammed.  I was able to remove it but now I have no seal.  Does anyone know what this is or what a suitable alternative would be?

Thanks,

Greg

Hi all,

I am still trying to figure out the plumbing on my C34.  One of the POs has made some changes to the stock plumbing system.  On the positive side, they drilled two holes behind the head with hoses going up to the lazerette and a vented loop.  This will make proper installation of my new head much easier.

I am still trying to figure out what is going on with the shower drain.  Right now there is water in it so it isn't draining.  I found a hose that has been cut (for some reason the PO cut most of the hoses.  I think he was planning on replacing them but sold the boat before he did.)   that is laying just inside the door under the sink.  I believe this is connected to the drain as when I shake it, the water level in the drain moves.  Is it possible that the hose is connected directly to the drain?  Am I correct that this usually connects to an electric pump and then out one of the seacocks?  If so, I have several other questions but I will wait to hear responses to this initial question.  Obviously the pump is not there but I see a piece of wood epoxied to the hull where I think it used to be installed.

Thanks,

Greg

Hi all,

The P/O removed the fresh air engine hoses (the ones that look like the hoses on the back of dryers).  I believe these connect to the air vents on the port and starboard side, but where do the other ends go?  Do they just lay in the engine compartment?

Are these used in conjunction with a blower (which I don't seem to have).  With a diesel, how important is a blower?

Thanks,

Greg

Hi all,

I am about to install a new head system in the boat.  In reading the tech wiki, I like the idea of using the starboard fresh water tank as a supply for the head.  My C30 always suffers from "stink" from the salt-water sitting ideal.

My plan is to run a hose directly from the water tank to the head with a t-connection to the thru-hull just in case I run out of fresh water.  In reading about this setup, I don't see any mention of a vented loop.  While the head may be above the water tank, I am concerned that on a starboard tack, water may siphon from the tank to the head.  Should I still install the vented loop (obviously between the bowl and the pump).  Anything else I need to be aware of in this setup?

Thanks,

Greg

I know the manual suggests 120 feet of 3/8ths line for the halyards (I have a tall rig).  My contact at North Sails is recommending 7/16 if I go with SLS polyester or 3/8 with gale force spectra.  Thoughts?  If I go with 7/16ths will I have issues with the sheaves in the mast?

Thanks,

Greg

Hi all,

I have a lewmar hatch on my 1990 C34.  I cannot seem to figure out how it is supposed to stay open.  All my previous hatches had a lever that locked at different lengths.  I have attached a couple of pictures of my setup.  Am I missing something?

Thanks,

Greg

Hi all,

The previous owner had drilled a hole for a garboard drain in the bilge.  The plan for today was to install the thruhull (which he had provided).  Of course things did not go as planned.  The bilge compartment where the backing nut threads is not perpendicular so the nut will not tighten flush.  OK, we plan to make a washer that is thicker on one side than the other to compensate for this.  I am fairly confident this will work, but have two questions.

One, when cleaning the thruhull (which I thought was bronze), it got very shiny so now I am thinking it is brass.  I have read Mainesail's articles and I know to be wary of brass, but is this only if it is combined with bronze?  Should a brass thruhull be ok?

Two, in tightening the cap on the thruhull, I can only get between 2 and 3 threads.  I think it is an issue of NPT and NPS threads.  Is this enough to prevent water from leaking in?

Thanks,

Greg

Hi all,

I am just going to pick up my T&H cabin sole (plywood laminate).  I have read about the different types of varnish to use on the veneer and that the edges and bottom should be protected with epoxy.  This probably shows how little I know, but what type/brand of epoxy is best for this?  I am assuming it is the standard 2-part epoxy (probably thinned down a little) but want to confirm before I purchase.

Thanks,

Greg

Hi all,

I know there have been a lot of posts on the shower sump and I have read most of them.  My issue is slightly different (or it might be).  Currently there is nothing attached to the back of the sump pump switch so I am assuming it has been disabled.  There is water in the actual drain so it is not draining or is blocked.  Obviously I have to see what the PO did to determine how to move forward.  My problem is that I can't seem to see anything.  Should I be able to feel the pump under the sole?  Is my only option to cut the inspection hole in the floor as described in the May 2001 Tech Notes?

I have a different hose setup under the sink than described in the manual so I need to figure out what has been done but it is hard to do that blind.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Greg

Hi all,

I am replacing the three thru hulls located under the sink in the head. Two are 1/2 inch and one is 3/4.  I have read Mainesails excellent article and want to do this properly.

I have 3 bronze seacock with flanges but they are all 3/4 inch.  Is there any reason not to drilll the hole in the boat larger and use 3/4 thru hulls for the engine and head intake? If i do so, what is the best way to connect the 1/2 inch hoses to the 3/4 seacock?

Thanks

Greg

Hi all,

Finally got the cover off the boat today and the real work starts.  I bought the boat last Fall and the PO had done a lot of work restoring the boat - but was only 85-90% done.  I will have lots of questions as I attempt the remaining 10-15%.

First thing I noticed today is that the mainsheet system is nowhere to be found.  I will contact the PO just in case it is laying around his house, but my strong expectation is that I will have to get a new one.  In looking at the manual, it appears that it comprises 7 blocks.  Is there a simpler (and thus cheaper) solution or is this the best way to go?  Also, how long does the mainsheet need to be?

Thanks,

Greg

Hi all,

I am putting in new teak and holly flooring.  I believe the original flooring was 3/8ths but my local store only carries 1/4 or 1/2 veneer plywood.  I am tempted to go with the 1/4 and epoxy a 1/8th piece of plywood to the back to make the appropriate thickness.  Any suggestions on what to use to adhere the two pieces together?  I have also read that the bottom should be epoxied to protect it from water/dampness.  What would you recommend for this?

thanks,

Greg

Hi,

I have searched and seen some information on this, but nothing definitive.  My "new to me" C34 came with a 16lb danforth anchor.  This is the same size I have on my current C30.  It has always worked well with my C30 even with my brother-in-laws cabin cruiser attached.  My thinking is that the two boats are approximately the same weight as the C34.  On the other hand, it just seems a little small for the size of the boat.  Would I be better off with a 24lb danforth?

I know choice of anchor is similar to religion - everyone has an opinion.  I have always used danforths and they seem to work well for conditions here in Nova Scotia.  I really am looking for advice on size.

Thanks so much,

Greg

Hi all,
I have a few spots in the cabin that I need to touch up the white paint.  Any suggestions on what to use?  Obviously I would prefer it to match the existing paint as closely as possilbe.

Thanks,

Greg

Does anyone know the capacity of the holding tank for a 1990 C34 that is located under the port settee?  I have been emailing with Kent at Catalina and he sent me a list of tanks and a diagram.  In the list, the holding tank (Part # 40194) is listed as 18 gallons.  In the diagram, the holding tank (part # 60170 stock B179)  is 30 gallons.  I looked on Catalina Direct and it appears to be the 30 gallon tank listed for the C34.  There are measurements but my boat is an hour away and neatly bundled up for the winter so I would prefer not to have to get on board.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Greg

I am needing to have a new cradle designed and built for my 1990 C34.  Catalina sent me the plans (along with the info in the manual) and it looks like they recommend a 4-pad cradle.  What do most of you use?  I would be tempted more towards a 6-pad cradle but is this overkill?

Thanks,

Greg

I notice that my engine insulation is only on the front and top (basically underneath the steps).  I was just looking at pictures of C34's that are for sale and noticed one also had insulation on the sides.  My boat has inspection hatches on both sides (one in the aft room and the other in the head) so I am not sure how insulation would work here.  Is this something that is important to have?  Will it make the engine quieter?

Thoughts and suggestions are welcome.

Greg

In inspecting under the sink of my 1990 C34, it appears that the water pump is not connected to the boat (i.e. it is not screwed into anything).  I am guessing that the PO was working on it and just didn't replace it to its proper spot.  Where is the pump usually attached to the boat?

Also, there is a loose foot pump which I believe is the ice box drain.  Again, it appears to have been detached and not re-attached yet.  This one is a little trickier as I can't seem to see where the foot pump extends out into the galley (i.e. where you actually pump it to drain the ice box).  Any thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks,

Greg

I am still just getting to know my new (to me) 1990 C34 with the open transom.  One surprise I have found is that there is only 1 water tank.  I see a second inlet near the starboard stern and there are two hoses (fill and vent?) in the rear lazerette underneath this but they are cut.  I am guessing the PO removed the second water tank.  Is this where a second tank usually is?  This is mainly out of curiousity.

Probably not an issue for me.  In ten years I have never used the second water tank in my Catalina 30, although the water tank under the starboard settee seems rather small.  Probably will try it for a year and see how it goes.

Greg

Hi all,

I have to replace 3 thru hulls.  The PO has done most of the work (removing the old ones and cleaning) and purchased the new parts.  The thru hulls are marelon while the seacocks are bronze.  I have read that you don't want to mix metals, but I can't find a definative answer if there is any problem mixing marelon and bronze.  The Forespar site does say it is ok to have bronze thru hulls with marelon seacocks, but I am looking at doing the opposite.  Makes sense that it would be ok but wondering what others think.

Thanks, Greg

Hi all,

Just a warning that I just purchased a 1990 C34 that needs a fair bit of work done.  I am going to try and do as much as I can myself, so will be asking lots of questions.  I will always use the search function first as I can already tell that most of my questions have been covered before.

I have seen some discussions on this topic, but I did not see a definitive answer.  I have to replace the teak and holly flooring.  I have the originals for a pattern and they are 3/8ths plywood with a veneer.  My local suppliers only seem to carry 1/4 and 1/2.  I am tempted to go with the 1/2 and can't seem to think what the downside (other than additional cost) of this would be.  Am I missing something?

Thanks,

Greg