Topics

Hi all,
The flexible metal jacket on the head faucet has separated from the base of the faucet and slid down the hose a little. Does anyone know how to re-attach it to the base? I've tried screwing it in and pushing it in, but that doesn't seem to work. Thanks
Mike....

Hi all,
Has anyone found a way to remove dried on Sikkens Cetol from nod-skid around teak grab rails on deck? Tried acetone, paint thinner, scraping, Orange stripper, with no real success.
Any suggestions? Thanks!
Mike.....

Hi all,
I'm having trouble getting the Oberdorfer water pump on my engine to pump water through. I changed the impeller and gasket, cleaned the sea water strainer, sucttioned the water through the pump inlet hose and reattached to the pump, started the engine and nothing coming out the exhaust. Removed the pump outlet hose from the heat exchanger and little or nothing coming out with the engine running. It won't seem to prime. I removed the sea strainer lubed the gasket/o-ring and re-tightened, suctioned the water through the pump inlet hose again, re-attached the hose again, and still nothing.

Is there a way to determine if the pump itself is bad, other than what I have already done?

Engine over heated on last trip out which prompted all of this. (Bad impeller after 2 seasons) I always change the impeller every season. This time I tried to get more time out of the impeller.

Any ideas would be appreciated! Thanks
Mike......

Hi all,
I am considering purchasing a lithium ion portable battery jump starter to keep on the boat. I have an M25XP engine (liters ?), and want to make sure the jump starter has plenty of power for multiple starts. The advertised specs are often stated using different measures, which adds to the confusion. I would love to hear some feedback from some of you who have a much better understanding of this technology than I have. Thanks.
Mike......

I have an M25XP engine with a Balmar ARS-5 voltage regulator. I upgraded from a failed ARS-4 in 2014. It is mounted outside of the engine compartment to avoid overheating (under the head sink space). The regulator suddenly stopped working. I went through the troubleshooting steps in the manual and then called balmar tech support with the voltage readings. This indicated that the regulator is not receiving power. The regulator harness brown wire for power is connected to the engine oil pressure switch circuit. I'm not sure how this circuit is supposed to work. I know that it is supposed to turn on the warning light at the panel in the cockpit when oil pressure is low, such as momentarily when starting the engine. The light does blink on when starting the engine. I don't seem to be able to get a voltage reading for that circuit when the engine is running. It should read the battery voltage. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Mike....

Does anyone know where to purchase the locking nuts at the end of the prop shaft, aft of the prop. I only have one nut and a cotter pin. I believe I have the thicker of the two nuts. I know it is a 1" shaft, but don't know the nut/thread size, or where to find them. I don't see them on Catalina Direct.
Mike.....

Hi all,
The knob/bolt used to tighten the table bracket to the column at the top, was missing when I bought the boat. The table always had a wobble I the upper position. I'm making a new smaller table to mount on the bracket, and would like to eliminate the wobble. A 5/16" bolt seems to be the right size, but the threads don't match. I thought I would try an 8mm metric bolt to see if that would work. It appears that it just needs to tighten against the bracket to tight the moveable part in the slot against the column. Any insight would be appreciated. I tried to locate the part, but no luck. It's an original pedestal on a 1987 boat.  Thanks
Mike....

Hi all,
My boat still has what seems to be the original Hood Roller Furling 900. Not sure if it had the drum upgrade? It has a single furling line. Anyway, the centering clamp is missing, and I don't know where to get one. Does anyone still stock parts for these? Also, it appears that it clamps around the lower threads on the forestay turnbuckle - is that correct? I have read several of the threads on this site, but am still not clear. Any ideas? Thanks.
Mike.....

I am in the process of installing a new Raymarine chart plotter, with a new downvision transducer as well.  My problem is running the transducer cable to the helm.  The pedestal guard is the 1" version, and the cable end fitting (7/8" dia.) will not fit through the stainless pipe due to slight dimpleing where the top bracket is attached.  Raymarine recommends against cutting and splicing the transducer cable.  I've looked through most of the postings, but haven't come across anything helpful so far.  I hate to go to the expense and added work of changing to the 1-1/4" pedestal guard if there is an good alternative way to get the wiring to the helm. 

If the larger pedestal guard is the only good way to do it, I would appreciate hearing from anyone who has done this.  Would I need to change the guard bracket on the binnacle as well, or can it be drilled out to fit the large diameter pipes?  If I drill a 1" hole in the pipe to fit the cable fitting through, will it weaken the pipe too much?  I would appreciate any thoughts/idea's.  Thanks.
Mike...... 

I would like to purchase a new chartplotter for my boat.  I have a very old Garmin that I was never able to get local charts for.  (old style memory card)  I would like to keep the price under $1,000, and would like a 7" screen.  There are many new plotters from Lowrance, Garmin and others that look good, but I have little experience with them.  Many of the new plotters are combination Chartplotters/Fishfinders.  I don't fish, so that is not important to me, however, many just seem to be combination units. Mapping options also vary, and keeping maps updated is always an issue.  At this point, I only sail on Lake Ontario. 
I would be very interested in hearing from any of you who may have upgraded recently, and what your experience has been.  Models keep changing and recent comparisons seem to be few and far between.  Thanks.
Mike.....

Hi everyone,
I just re-connected my wind instrument wiring at the mast base, and unfortunately, the the read out at the helm is only registering the wind direction, not the speed.  It worked fine last season, before hauling and taking the mast down. No visible damage to the wind vane when re-installed to top of mast.  I was able to read DC voltage at each wire connection at the mast base.  Has anyone run into this problem? Not sure how to troubleshoot.  Any thoughts would be appreciated.  Thanks.
Mike....

Hi all,
I would like to replace the interior lighting on my boat.  Both fluorescent fixtures (in head and over ice box), main cabin fixtures, reading lights in forward and aft cabins, and possibly the navigation table lamp.  I would like to be able to operate each light individually (on/off), and possibly dimmers.  Currently, if I have the "cabin lights" circuit turned on, there is no way to turn off the main cabin lights individually.  If I want to use the reading lights in the V-Birth, all of the main cabin lights have to be left on.  I've read many of the previous posts, but most are from years past, and the technology is constantly changing and improving.  It sounds like simply replacing bulbs with LED bulbs can sometimes work, but may be a real compromise.

Has anyone taken on this type of project recently, to take advantage of the newer LED technologies?  If so, I would really appreciate learning from your experience. 

Some specific areas of interest include:
-  Specific fixtures/Sizes
-  Switching/Dimming
-  Light Output to match existing or improve
-  Color Temps (I like the warm look of the incandescents)
-  Wiring issues

Thanks.
Mike....

Hi Everyone,
I am considering having a new Dodger made for my 1987 C-34, and I would like to have a Bimini with connector piece made at the same time.  Does anyone have a recommendation for a good source in the Rochester, NY area.  I want to keep the price reasonable, but want good quality and service as well.  Someone told me of a place near Syracuse that comes to the boat with all of the equipment and builds it on site, generally in a day, but doesn't know the name of the service.  Local services seem hard to find. Are there places with stock choices for our boats that owners can install themselves?  Any information would be appreciated.  Thanks.
Mike.....

Hi all,
I just got to the boat and all of the cabin lights are out. The fluorescent light in the head is working, but none of the lights in the v-berth, the main cabin, or the aft cabin are working. I appear to have the original electrical panel with fuses. The 15 amp fuse is fine, the cabin light switch on the panel has power when switched on, and there is power across the fuse connections. Any idea where the likely wiring problem may be before I start tearing everything apart? Seems odd they would all go out at once. Thanks.
Mike....

Hi all,
I'm not sure what Fuel Filter/Separator I have on the boat.  It seems to be similar to a Racor 215R2, but it has a silver top rather than white?? Is there a 220 Series?  Does anyone recognize this specific system? I am trying to find documentation.  My system is still in the wrong order (fuel tank > fuel pump > Primary Filter).  I am planning on changing it to the proper configuration (Fuel Tank > Primary Filter > Fuel Pump) and want to insure I buy the right fittings to add a ball valve to the Racor inlet. 
Also, I have a Facet electric fuel pump and would like to change the filter on that as well.  I just found out that it had a filter on it.  Do you know what filter it takes? Are there any special considerations for replacing it?

I'll try to attach a picture of the Racor to help identify.
Thanks.
Mike....

I am trying to confirm the size of a FlexoFold prop that came with my boat.  I currently have a fixed 3-blade prop on the boat, but this prop was part of the package when I purchased the boat.  I'm not sure if it was ever on the boat, and if so, why it was removed.  I have copied a photo of the blade identifiers for reference and identification.  I received an email with a photo from FlexoFold showing how to identify the size, but it doesn't exactly match what I have.  I believe that it is a 10x15 prop, but want to confirm.  After reading many of the posts on this forum regarding FlexoFold props, it sounds like 10x15 would be a good size for a MK I with a M25-XP.  If any of you recognize the markings, I would appreciate your feedback. 
I am hoping that it will provide improved overall performance and minimize prop walk in reverse.  It seems that this has been the experience of those on this forum who have installed this prop.  I am also trying to find the owner info for this prop, Parts diagram / installation instructions, etc.  I hope the picture comes through.   Thanks.
Mike.....

Hi all,
Probably been asked before, but wondering if it would be dangerous to eliminate the bolts and use screws from below for all positions. I noticed that the short grab rails above the companion way are screwed from below only. I would likely fill the existing bolt holes with epoxy and then drill and screw from below.
I would appreciate your thoughts on this. Thanks.
Mike...

Hi everyone,
I have a question regarding the importance of a Battery Temp Sensing wire to the new Balmar ARS-5 Voltage Regulator that I will be installing in the spring.  I plan on installing the Alternator Temp sensing wire, but wondered how important the Battery wire is.  I would appreciate your thoughts.  I'm sure running the wire will be another adventure.  Thanks.
Mike....

Has anyone used Citristrip to remove old finishes (Cetol) from the teak while on the boat.  If so, did it damage the fiberglass/gelcoat?  Can you rinse with fresh water after scraping off the finish?  I used it on some teak that I removed from the boat, with good results, but am concerned about possible damage to the boats finish, fiberglass/gelcoat/non-skid, if I use it on the teak that is still attached.  I'm planning to strip the forward grab rails and eyebrows, and would prefer not to remove them.  Thanks.
Mike....

New problem.  I tried remove my head sail yesterday, and the sail will not release at the top.  I'm not sure if it is the swivel unit that the sail attaches to, or if the sail may be pulled partially from the slot.  I did replace the bearing in the top of the furling last fall, and added the recommended 1/2" screws to further secure the bearing and keep it from falling out again.  Wondering if the sliding swivel mechanism may be stuck on the screw head.  Has anyone experienced this type of problem before.  I'm pulling the mast on Sunday.  Hate to go up the mast if I don't have to.  All ideas welcome. Thanks.
Mike....

Not to beat a dead horse, but has anyone tried one of these Voltage Regulators? Mainesail looked into these at one time, but I haven't seen a real review.

ProReg-D 12 Volt / 24 Volt Advanced Alternator Regulator

Read more: http://www.monstermarketplace.com/marine-battery-chargers/proreg-d-12-volt-24-volt-advanced-alternator-regulator#ixzz2dHle6QY7

Thanks,
Mike....

Maine Sail / Ron Hill,
I copied Maine Sails response to my earlier post regarding Voltage Regulator, below.  Ron you said you have the same alternator as mine.  Can either of you explain how to buss the two output terminals together to make it a single output.  Can I simply tie to two positive output posts together?  Or is their more to it than that?  Here is Maine Sails response to my earlier post.  Thanks.
Mike.....

mainesail
Forum - Petty Officer 1st Class
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Boat Name / Hull Number: Cupecoy - CS-36T
Model Year: 1979
Home Port: Broad Cove, Maine
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Re: Testing Balmar ARS-4 Voltage Regulator?
« Reply #7 on: August 23, 2013, 06:33:43 PM »
   Reply with quoteQuote
Mike,

I would urge you to go with an ARS-5 or MC-614. They are far better regulators than the Transpo. The Transpo is also just a very, very basic single stage regulator.

I would also urge anyone with an older dual output alt to buss them together and use them as a single output alternator. There are far too many cases of cooked banks due to dual output alts. There is a reason Balmar no longer offers them and that is because when you have one regulator and two outputs it makes proper voltage sensing nearly impossible. They are very easy to jumper to create a single output...
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-Maine Sail

Casco Bay, ME
Boat - CS-36T
Maine Sail's Photo Galleries
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising

Hello again,
I have finally gotten around to troubleshooting my charging problem.  I went through all of the wiring, ran multiple tests, including taking the regulator out of the loop, using the process described in the regulator troubleshooting documentation.  The alternator charges with the regulator out of the loop.  Is there a way to test/reset/repair the ARS-4, or is it best to take it to an alternator shop and let them test it?  By the way, my alternator is a Balmar 91-75 D (dual output). Thanks.
Mike....

Hi again,
Looking for suggestions on a good, but reasonably priced MOB/COB Pole.  Haven't found too many, and they all seem over-priced.  Thanks.
Mike......

Hi all,
I want to add to additional cleats and am looking for some advice on cleat type, size and location.  Following are the 2 cleats I want to add and why:
1:  A mast cleat to use when lifting the keel-stepped mast prior to haul out.  I use a sling for the gin pole hook, with a line running down to a cleat on the mast.  It is a 7" Forespar cleat (marelon or aluminum?)  I'm concerned that it is not strong enough and would like to add a larger, more substantial cleat. 

2:  A smaller cleat to attach the Genoa furling line to, especially when sailing with the Genoa partially reefed.  I was thinking a small 4" marelon jam cleat might work for this?? 

I would appreciate any thoughts you have based on your experience.  I'm sure there are lots of options.  Thanks.
Mike......

Hi everyone,
I'm working on trying to loosen and remove the sink drain from the port bowl of the double bowl sink. I can't seem to get the collar to turn from below. Access is really tight and hard to get a wrench on it. Is the collar supposed to turn from below? Any tricks to getting it loose? Do I need to remove the short section that goes to the tee to rotate the elbow? Looking for ideas before I break something. The drain leaks where it meets the bowl. Thanks.
Mike.....

search:  galley+sink+drain

Hi all,
We have never used our alcohol stove on our boat. We basically day sail with an occasional short trip to nearby harbors.  My wife does not envision ever using the oven, and would likely use the cook top very infrequently.  Probably only when at the dock, where AC power is available.  We also have access to a large gas grill right at the end of our dock. 
I'm looking for ideas if any of you have had similar situations and made changes.  It would be nice to use the space where the stove is.  I'm considering removing the stove, installing a microwave in the lower section and putting in a shelf for a cook top (either a portable propane/butane, electric or induction), and a filler piece to expand counter top space when not in use.  If anyone has done this, I would appreciate your thoughts and pictures if you have any.  Also, it would be good to hear the thoughts of any of you on this concept.  I would keep the stove and the ability to re-install if my needs change in the future, or for resale of the boat someday.  Thanks.
Mike.....

I had to make a small deck repair around a stanchion.  Is there a  touch up product to closely match the light gray non-skid deck paint?  I need to touch up only a few inches of deck.  Thanks.
Mike.....

Hi all,
Back again for more suggestions.  I had a dock mishap on Sunday, and took out the vented vertical stanchion on the port side, the one with the holding tank vent in it.  I've read several posts on re-routing the vent hose through the hull, with different approaches.  After I repair the deck, I plan to install a new stanchion without the vent.  I ordered one from Garhauer. 
It appears that others have located the through-hull vent more forward than where it currently is located.  Is there any reason not to install the through-hull vent approximately below the current stanchion vent?  I haven't measured the location yet, but my thought was to put it either between the rub rail and the stripe or just below the stripe, depending where I have access from inside.  I seems like that would be easier than re-routing the vent hose forward.  It also seems like it might be better from the standpoint of water getting into the vent opening when sailing.  I'll try to get some measurements today or tomorrow to see if I have room inside the slider door above the nav station.  Also, I plan on using a standard Marelon mushroom through hull, rater than a covered vent.  Seems others have used them with no problems.  I would appreciate your thoughts on this.  Thanks.
Mike......

Hi everyone,
I would like to test my engine prior to launch, and am looking for suggestions on supplying water to the engine from the hose on the dock.  Is it better to run water into a bucket and let the engine draw from the bucket or is it ok to connect the water supply hose directly to the engine supply hose?  Any thoughts? Thanks.
Mike....

Hi all,
My boat came with the dorade vents removed and just capped off.  Obviously I need to add ventilation to the boat.  I am considering putting solar vents in place of the dorade vents.  I would really like to keep air moving in the boat if possible.  It seems that most people purchase the Nicro N20704S, but the vast majority of reviews I see are terrible for these vents.  I realize that any product is likely to receive some bad reviews, but the flags really goes up on this one. Most seem to fail within the first year, and many within a few months.  Has anyone found a good solar vent alternative to the Nicro vents?  Thanks.
Mike.....

Does anyone know what type / size washer should be used on the Hurth transmission on a 1987 C-34?  I changed my transmission fluid for the first time and filled to the top for winter storage as suggested.  The washer on the dipstick looks like a standard rubber hose washer, and appears to leak.  Can't find reference to the washer in the manual.  Thanks.
Mike.....

Hi all,
I'm back for more advice.  I have removed the Teak boards that run fore and aft on the cabin top along the hatch cover, in order to eliminate some cabin top leaks traced to that area.  This has raised a number of issues/concerns.  I have posted some photos below for reference.
1.)  With the teak removed, would I be wise to remove the large fiberglass panel that the hatch cover slides into, and re-bed that as well?  Looks like it will come off by removing the screws along each side.  Not sure if there are any leaks there, but I would hate to put the teak back down and still have leaks.  Is is more complicated than that?
2.)  You can see from the photos that there are a number of small cracks that run outward from the screw holes under the teak rails.  Should they be sealed somehow? Are they normal and harmless?  I plan to countersink the holes before putting the the teak back down. 
3.)  I plan to use Butyl Tape to re-bed the teak.  Should I only put the tape around the screws?  Should I put butyl tape along the length of the teak along the upper edge of the board against the hatch cover upper panel, to prevent water from getting under the teak, or is that unnecessary? How about on the bottom of the teak rail beyond the screw hole area?  The same question applies to the teak blocks that the line clutches mount to.  They were originally mounted with silicone calk YUK!!!!!  I hope I don't find any more silicone calk on the boat, but I suspect I will.
4.)  Suggestions on Teak finishing would be nice, but I'll probably start another thread for that. 
As always, I really appreciate the suggestions from the experienced members of the forum.
Mike.....

Can anyone tell me if there is a way to remove this lewmar line clutch without disassembling it?  I can get at the aft screws in the base, but not the forward 2 screws.  I'll try to add a couple of photo's.  I need to remove the clutch and the clutch base in order to remove the long Teak cabin top boards that run fore and aft.  I got the starboard one removed, but it had a newer clutch and was easier to get at the screws.  The base block was a different story.  It appeared to be sealed down with silicone calk.  What a mess!!
Thanks,
Mike.....

Previous owner made a number of changes to the plumbing on my 1987 boat. For instance, the stern water tank was redirected from under the galley sink to supply only the toilet, and neither of the sinks. both sinks are supplied from the starboard tank only. I'll then need to know how to plumb the lake water from one of the sea cocks under the sink in the head to the toilet. I would also like to know if the rest of the plumbing under the galley sink is correct.  It seems to function properly from the starboard tank.  I also have an ice box with a foot pump that is tied to the galley sink drain line. It works, but some of the water tends to run back into the ice box after pumping if I don't close the in-line ball valve quickly enough.  I would like to tie the 2 fresh water tanks together with the best shut off valve arrangements possible.  If someone happens to have a good diagram, that would be very helpful.  The diagram in the manual is not terribly detailed. If not, I would appreciate any advice before I begin the project.  I have already emptied the tanks to get ready to winterize, but would like to straighten out the water lines first.  I also have some questions on winterizing, but I'll put that in another post.  Thanks.
Mike......

Hi all,
My boat is coming out of the water next Saturday, and I need to buy some 6"x6" Pressure treated blocking for under the keel.  Does anyone know the length of the wing keel.  I thought I would put a couple of 6x6's fore and aft and then a few pieces on top of them at 90 degrees for the keel to rest on.  Not sure how long the pieces should be.  I should have measured before it went in the water in the spring.  I'll be using six side stands (3 per side) and a bow "V" stand.  Thanks for any input you may have.
Mike.....

I purchased a couple of magnesium anodes (zincs) for my heat exchanger.  I went by the specs and ordered E-1Z-M Engine Magnesium Anode from BoatZincs.com.  When I removed the old one, it was virtually gone.  Just a stub was left.  The thread diameter of the new one was too large for the fitting that it screws into. The specs on the new ones that I purchased are below.
MODEL    DIAMETER  LENGTH    WEIGHT (LBS)    UNC THREAD    
E-1Z-M       1/2"      2"               0.10               3/8-16    

Apparently I have a different heat exchanger.  I don't see any model info on it.  It is approx. 3" diameter and kind of a maroon color.  The zinc fitting is located on the aft port side of the body of the heat exchanger. I have attached a rather poor picture of it that I had on the computer.  Can anyone tell from the picture what type it is and if so, what size zinc I need to buy.  It appears to require a thread diameter of approx. 1/4" or 5/16".  Not sure of the thread size or the overall anode length.  I would appreciate any help you can provide.  I can try to get a better picture if that will help.

I have a 1987 C-34 with an M25XP engine.

Thanks.
Mike.....

I have a damaged spreader boot, and would like to buy new ones before going up the mast.  Anyone know what size to buy? I'm not sure what the size of the spreader tip is.  Thanks.
Mike.....

I have tracked down several leaking points on my cabin top.  The worst leaks are coming from under the long teak rails along each side of the main sliding hatch cover.  It looks like I will have to remove the rails after all.  Is it possible to temporarily calk along the top and bottom of each rail until I can pull them off.  I'd rather do it in the fall after sailing season if possible.  Looks like a pretty big job to get the rails off, re-finish them, and re-install with new bedding.  It looks like they may be a little warped as well, lifting just a little off the fiberglass.  Maybe this caused them to pull out in a couple of places near the center of the rail.  Can I use clear silicone (tub & tile calk) to hold it through the summer?  I would appreciate your thoughts and experience in removing and re-bedding the rails if possible as well. 

I also found a couple of the screws leaking under the grab rails on the cabin top.  The long grab rails on either side of the top deck.  Can they be removed by unscrewing from below only, or do you have to drill out the plugs in these as well, in order to remove them.  None of this sounds like a lot of fun. 

Thanks.

I need to get boat stands for my 1987 C34 with Wing Keel.  Hoping to find some good used ones.  What would be the correct height range for the stands? Also, is it important to have a stand on the bow as well? Thanks.
Mike.....

Looking for good used boat stands for 1987 C-34.  I'm located near Rochester, NY. Thanks.
Mike....

Has anyone removed the sliding hatch cover?  If so, what is the process - what has to be removed to get it off.  I want to inspect the area for possible cabin top leaks, but can see in there.  I would also like to clean the whole area to smooth out the sliding action.  By the way, it is a 1987 model.  I welcome your thoughts on this.  Thanks.
Mike....

I'm sure this topic has been covered many times, but I can't seem to find what I'm looking for.  I have several leaks in the cabin top.  I have removed and reseated the traveler (what a job), as recommended in several postings.  My dorade vents were removed by the previous owner, and capped off inside and out.  Water is leaking through the core and into both openings.  That is probably why the PO capped them. I believe the leak may be further up, near the hatch cover area.  There are a few screw holes in the inside cabin top, where screws were removed from a cable that used to be run across the ceiling.  Some drips com through them as well.  They are just starboard of the hand hold, over the sink area.  I believe the leak may be in this area an running down to the dorade holes on each side.  Is there a likely source of leaks around this area, and if so, how can I get to them with the hatch cover in the way. Any thoughts would be appreciated. 
Mike.....

I would like to download an IPad navigation app, and would like to keep the cost down.  Practical Sailor did a recent comparison of apps and it seems they liked I-Navx and Navionics the best.  Have any of you used these? Once you purchase and download the app, are the charts free for your local area, or do you have to purchase them separately.  It looks like the Navionics may provide the local charts free, but you must purchase charts outside of your local area?  Does anyone know.  Also, how about the ease of use of the apps?  I would love to hear from anyone who has used IPad apps for navigation.  Thanks.
Mike....

I'm sure there are many articles on this, so if you can point me in the right direction I would appreciate it.  I bought this boat knowing about this problem, but am finally getting around to troubleshooting it.  The surveyor didn't know if it was an alternator problem, wiring problem, or regulator.  
Right now, the gauge goes to 12 volts when the ignition key is turned on, and that's where it stays when the engine is running.  I don't see any brand identification on the alternator.  It is white with blue cooling fins.  The regulator is a Balmar Marine Multi Stage Regulator ARS-4.  
There is a component mounted on the side bulkhead below the alternator that has 4 connection points and what appears to be a large resistor with a purple wire running to the cockpit.  There is a yellow wire connected to the bottom terminal of this component and the other end is marked with tape saying "+Alt". It's just hanging there.  I don't have any wiring diagrams for this system.  Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
Mike.....
Additional question.  How long can I motor the boat without an alternator charging the batteries.  I have 2 new house batteries and a good starting battery.  All fully charged at the dock.  I need to move the boat and if I have to motor, it could be up to 5 hours.  Do you think it will make it?  Thanks.
Mike...

I am trying to locate a Pre-programmed Data Card for a Garmin GPSMAP 172C.  I sail on Lake Ontario but understand the original data cards covered all of the Great Lakes.  This generation of Garmin's in no longer supported and maps are no longer available.  I was hoping to find someone who has upgraded to a newer generation unit but hasn't tossed the old data card for this area. Thanks.
Mike.....

Looking for some insight.  When I turned on the DC power panel, the galley pump was off.  I then turned on the faucet and the pump went on as expected, but would not turn off.  The batteries are new and fully charged.  Any suggestions on this one.  Also is there a way to easily drain the water tanks without using the pump? I want to flush out the tanks.  What  size an type of filter is under the sink (if it's standard with the boat) Thanks for your help.
Mike.....

Probably seems like a silly question, but I haven't put the sails on the boat yet, and need to get new sail ties.  I have the tall rig, and wonder what length and type to get for the boat.  Would appreciate any suggestions.  Thanks.
Mike....

Hello again,
I am having some water leaking into the core above the cabin.  The previous owner capped off the holes for the Dorade vents and also had two deck plates covering 4" holes, one in the head, and the other above the seat in the rear cabin.  Is accumulating in all 4 of these openings.  I am suspecting the main opening Bomar hatch above the dinette table.  The seal at the deck looks questionable and someone has put some sealant on top of each of the deck screws on the hatch frame.  The boat is still in the cradle on the hard and is sitting with the bow up a bit, which would cause the water to travel aft.  Any thoughts on this?  Any other likely spots to look at?  Any potential water entry points above the sliding hatch cover that would run to both sides of the boat?  I'd like to get the water infiltration stopped before launching if possible.  Thanks again for all of your help.
Mike......

Hi Everyone,
Back with another question.  I just replaced the old Dynaplate on my boat.  The old one had been painted over.  When I followed the grounding wire, I found that nothing was connected at the other end.  The wire appeared to have three connections in the hanging locker between the nav station and the head, but they had been disconnected by a previous owner.  What components are normally grounded to the Dynaplate?  I assume everything is grounded to the engine at this point.  I would appreciate everyone's thoughts on this.  I also have another problem to post, but will do it separately.  Thanks.
Mike.....