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All,

I'm looking for feedback on a conversion from FLA (Flooded Lead Acid) batteries to LFP (Lithium Iron Phosphate).  I'm considering because it's time to replace my seven year old house bank and four new golf cart batteries will cost around $600.  I estimate upgrade to LFP, including DC to DC charger and other parts, will total between $1000 and $1500 depending on the battery.  Time difference is an hour for new golf cart batteries and a day or two for LFP.

My current system has worked flawlessly for many years so I want to leave it unchanged as much as possible.  I used information from Marine How To (https://marinehowto.com/) and plan to source parts from Rod's affiliate pages.

Let me know what you think.  My goal is to avoid mistakes and help others considering the same change.

Kyle Ewing
DONNYBROOK #1010
 

I'm cross-posting here for visibility.  See pics in parts wanted/for sale.

***

I'm decluttering and am offering for free my original, delaminated rudder from a 1990 fin keel Catalina 34.  Boat has always been in fresh water (Lake Michigan).  Rudder may be useful to someone who has a boat with a bent rudder shaft who needs a straight rudder to rebuild. 

Foam is water logged with delamination at the bottom.  I tried drilling holes to dry over winter and filling with expandable foam for first two years I owned Donnybrook before replacing with a new elliptical rudder.  It's sat on my cradle since.

Free for pickup in Chicago Northwest side (60625 zip) or will deliver/meet a reasonable distance for gas money.

CONSIDERATIONS:  Even though boat was fresh water sailed, I don't know condition of the grid welded to the shaft.  Holes for steering quadrant and tiller cap may not align to another boat.

I'm decluttering and am offering for free my original, delaminated rudder from a 1990 fin keel Catalina 34.  Boat has always been in fresh water (Lake Michigan).  Rudder may be useful to someone who has a boat with a bent rudder shaft who needs a straight rudder to rebuild. 

Foam is water logged with delamination at the bottom.  I tried drilling holes to dry over winter and filling with expandable foam for first two years I owned Donnybrook before replacing with a new elliptical rudder.  It's sat on my cradle since.

Free for pickup in Chicago Northwest side (60625 zip) or will deliver/meet a reasonable distance for gas money.

CONSIDERATIONS:  Even though boat was fresh water sailed, I don't know condition of the grid welded to the shaft.  Holes for steering quadrant and tiller cap may not align to another boat.

I'm looking for ways to add clothes storage to the cabinet tops in the v-berth. The problem I'm trying to solve is living out of bags when staying on the boat for a few nights or longer. I didn't see anything in the wiki.

What have others done to that area? It could be as simple as adding plastic milk crates or basic shelves.  I need something that'll be secure when under way but doesn't feel like it's filling up the space like a cabinet would.  It'll also need to support air circulation to minimize "boat smell" on clothes, which is an advantage of keeping clothes in a bag.

 

Are the benefits of a 34 year old cradle worth the time and expense to truck it 80 miles to another yard?

I'm considering switching winter boat yards from Chicago south side to Kenosha.  If I do, I need to make a decision about shipping my cradle or using jack stands.  My cradle is the original four pad shipping cradle and is showing it's age.  The yard I'm considering charges a "cradle handling fee" that's essentially the same as jack stand rental.

I expect strong winds being on Lake Michigan.
 

Does anyone know of a drop-in LED fixture replacement for our Aqua Signal Series 25 bow and stern lights?  The only one I found that matches the hole pattern is from Marinebeam and it doesn't look to be USCG certified (https://store.marinebeam.com/economy-series-25-led-navigation-light-bi-color-bow-port-starboard/). 

Marinebeam's USCG certified red/green nav light (https://store.marinebeam.com/led-bi-color-navigation-light/) is the closest I've found but the mounting pattern is different.

Defender's spring launch sale has deep discounts on nav lights but don't want to try to make a deck mounted light work.  The Aqua Signal 28 white light should work for the stern light.

I ran across these pages you might find interesting:

Catalina 34 MK II ORR Certificate:  https://data.orc.org/public/WPub.dll/CC/03880001H59
Catalina 34 MK I ORR Data:  http://jieter.github.io/orc-data/site/#USA/USA63

The MK I link gives you info on all 2021 ORR Certificates, polars and lets you compare boats.

Anyone have experience with a Generac 7117 GP2200i generator?  Amazon has one for $359 (black Friday sale ends today).  Specs seem similar to a Honda 2200 for 30% of the price and the Generac seems to be a better brand than some of the other inexpensive generators.  Differences I see:
* 1700 max watts vs 1800 for Honda
* Engine size (80cc vs. 121cc) which will result in more noise and possibly shorter life
* Noise, Generac doesn't publish DBs but will be louder
* Larger fuel tank for longer run time before fueling

My intended use:  Extend time at anchor without running the engine to charge batteries.  Reality is I'll use it only a few time a season.  I'll also look into a soft start device to run my AC (Webasto FCF 16000, 11 amps at 115v).

Last season I started to notice some vibration on my 1990 C34 with M25XP with 10 year old Vetus motor mounts.  Although it's still not bad, it's worse this season, especially at mid RPMs.  Previously it was super smooth.  Mounts are firmly bolted to the stringers and cutlass bearing is tight. 

Should I try to realign the engine to compensate for changes to 10 year old mounts, replace them due to age or look for another cause of the vibration?  Engine has 2000+ hours.

Anyone have experience adding inexpensive cabin heat while underway?  I have reverse cycle heat with my A/C so I'm covered at dock.  I'm looking for something to warm the cabin while under sail until Lake Michigan warms and want to be smart about it given fire and CO risk.

I found reference to a Home Deport sourced propane heater from a 2004 post.  I could secure a portable heater like this (https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-MH12B-Hunting-Portable/dp/B00CDJHIYW?ref_=ast_sto_dp) or bulkhead mount something like this (https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-Corporation-Vent-Free-Propane/dp/B01DPZ56PU?ref_=ast_sto_dp).  It looks like a 1# tank will run for 4-5 hours on low, plenty for how I'll be using it.  What do others use?

I'm intrigued by David's external heater and wonder if it can be safely secured to deck while sailing (see https://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Diesel_Cabin_Heater_-_Portable) and am skeptical about cheap Chinese heaters (see https://magazine.rvdaily.com.au/rv-daily-issue-043/hot-as-or-cheap-ass-don-t-get-burned-by-a-chinese-diesel-heater).

I know the best method is a properly installed marine heater but hard to justify the $2K+ for the few times/season I'll use it.

I'm planning to refinish interior cabin sole boards this off-season.  I'd like to seal the gap between the wood and fiberglass to keep out water, dirt, dead flies, wire insulation and all the other stuff that ends up on the floor when reinstalling.  Any downsides to doing this?

I'm considering using Life Caulk teak brown.  What have you used?

Anyone have experience with qtVlm (https://www.meltemus.com/index.php/en/)?  I downloaded and got working on my laptop today.  I was able to import a polar and get it to recognize the same charts I used with OpenCPN.

On the surface it seems like a capable program but found very little written about it compared to OpenCPN and other navigation software.

I'm shopping for a new anchor to replace my 22# Bruce this off-season and am wondering how likely a new generation (Rocna or Manson) anchor will get stuck compared to a Bruce or Danforth.  Does the extra holding power mean greater risk of not being able to break it free and losing my investment?  I anchor in mud or sand. 

I plan to upsize from 22# to 35# as many here recommend but don't have a windless.  I tell myself it'll be okay since I have no problem pulling up the 22# anchor today and the difference is less than the weight of two gallons of water.  Any other considerations that may make me reconsider anchor size?


 

I'm planning to add an AIS Transceiver (Em-trak B953, see https://www.milltechmarine.com/B953).  I don't need WiFi or other fancy features, just transmit and receive and NMEA 2000 connectivity.  The B953 has the integrated VHF splitter so I can share existing VHF antenna.  I'll add a transmit on/off (stealth mode) switch to avoid broadcasting at dock.

Any other considerations or experiences?  AIS seems to be a commodity technology with the only consideration being the older CSTDMA and newer SOTDMA. 

I have four golf cart batteries (Duracell 115 amp hour from Batteries Plus) charged by Xantrex Truecharge 40.  This season I didn't have to add any distilled water.  Previous seasons rarely.  Is this your experience? 

Main difference between this season is I didn't discharge the batteries as deeply.  Even though I used the boat more for day sails I used it less for overnight trips.

I had a wonderful sail Thursday before taking Donnybrook to the yard Friday.  The day started flat calm and wind increased to 15 knots.  Friday had gusts to 32 knots out of the south, the direction to the yard, but waves weren't bad.  I motor sailed most of the way.

I made a video to get me through the winter I thought I'd share:  https://youtu.be/GjKnNODMmBo

It makes me look forward to spring so much more when the season ends on a high note!

More stuff from my garage cross posted from Marketplace for visibility...

Pick-up from Chicago northwest side.  See eBay listing.  http://ebay.us/lmMelp?cmpnId=5338273189.  Starting bid is $0.99.

Hood 155% Roller Furling Genoa from Catalina 34 Tall Rig, used with sail bag. Condition is Used.

This sail was used about 12 seasons through 2003 before I replaced it.  It was checked over by a sail maker and stitching repaired before being stored.  There's a small piece of luff tape where it rubs the spreaders that may need attention, circled on one of the pictures.  I tried to show sail shape in pictures however wind was light when pictures were taken, less than 8 knots true (see picture of wind instrument).

Sail was used in fresh water, Lake Michigan.

Pick-up from Chicago northwest side.  See eBay listing.  http://ebay.us/lmMelp?cmpnId=5338273189.  Starting bid is $0.99.

Hood 155% Roller Furling Genoa from Catalina 34 Tall Rig, used with sail bag. Condition is Used.

This sail was used about 12 seasons through 2003 before I replaced it.  It was checked over by a sail maker and stitching repaired before being stored.  There's a small piece of luff tape where it rubs the spreaders that may need attention, circled on one of the pictures.  I tried to show sail shape in pictures however wind was light when pictures were taken, less than 8 knots true (see picture of wind instrument).

Sail was used in fresh water, Lake Michigan.

I found these while going through misc. boat parts.  Any idea what they are and should I keep them?  The caps appear left over from the refrigerator install.

...cross posted from marketplace.  More stuff from my garage thanks to Covid-19 and work from home...

I stopped using them 15+ years ago because I didn't like storing them in the cabin and they aren't as waterproof as I'd like.  I have no experience shipping so I listed as local pick-up only from Chicago NW side.  For Catalina 34 Association members, if you're interested and want me to ship contact me via private message before bidding and we'll see if we can work something out. 

See http://ebay.us/akIhT4?cmpnId=5338273189

Cockpit Cushion Set--Catalina 34 MK1.   Good Condition, see notes. Condition is Used.

Taken from my 1990 Catalina 34.  Been in storage for last 15 years.  Always used in fresh water (Lake Michigan).

Overall good condition for age.  No holes or tears.  Helm cushion stitching and snaps are in good shape.  All zippers work.  See pictures for condition and note:

Piping cord corner of one cushion is loose, about 4".  Simply cut off?
Stitching has separated from end corner of one cushion, top and bottom.  About an inch needs to be restitched on each corner.
Some light stains.  May come out with cleaning.
Sorry, I'm unable to ship.  Pickup from Chicago NW side or possible meet within reasonable distance.

I stopped using them 15+ years ago because I didn't like storing them in the cabin and they aren't as waterproof as I'd like.  I have no experience shipping so I listed as local pick-up only from Chicago NW side.  For Catalina 34 Association members, if you're interested and want me to ship contact me via private message before bidding and we'll see if we can work something out. 

See http://ebay.us/akIhT4?cmpnId=5338273189

Cockpit Cushion Set--Catalina 34 MK1.   Good Condition, see notes. Condition is Used.

Taken from my 1990 Catalina 34.  Been in storage for last 15 years.  Always used in fresh water (Lake Michigan).

Overall good condition for age.  No holes or tears.  Helm cushion stitching and snaps are in good shape.  All zippers work.  See pictures for condition and note:

Piping cord corner of one cushion is loose, about 4".  Simply cut off?
Stitching has separated from end corner of one cushion, top and bottom.  About an inch needs to be restitched on each corner.
Some light stains.  May come out with cleaning.
Sorry, I'm unable to ship.  Pickup from Chicago NW side or possible meet within reasonable distance.

Cross-posted from marketplace for increased visibility...

I listed my used exhaust riser on ebay:  http://ebay.us/HIj9kB?cmpnId=5338273189

Description:
1990 Catalina 34 Universal M25XP Exhaust Riser Stainless Used in Fresh Water. Condition is Used.

Taken from my 1990 Catalina 34 with Universal M25XP in 2011 and stored since.  I estimate the engine had less than 1400 hours at the time.  I read horror stories about failed exhaust risers so decided to proactively replace.  If I had inspected before buying the new one from Catalina I may have waited.  Boat has always been used in fresh water (Lake Michigan).

Starting bid is $0.99 plus shipping.

I listed my used exhaust riser on ebay:  http://ebay.us/HIj9kB?cmpnId=5338273189

Description:
1990 Catalina 34 Universal M25XP Exhaust Riser Stainless Used in Fresh Water. Condition is Used.

Taken from my 1990 Catalina 34 with Universal M25XP in 2011 and stored since.  Estimated engine had less than 1400 hours at the time.  I read horror stories about failed exhaust risers so decided to proactively replace.  If I had inspected before buying the new one from Catalina I may have waited.  Boat has always been used in fresh water (Lake Michigan).

Starting bid is $0.99 plus shipping.

Anyone have success mounting a sideview transducer in a Catalina 34 or another boat?  I want to see bottom detail and can accept decreased depth performance.  I'm in water <100' most of the time.

I recently bought a Garmin Echo Chart Plus 73sv primarily for chartplotter features (excellent price for discontinued model).  I was hoping to mount the GT52 Sidevu transducer in the hull under the V-berth (very bottom of the V in the center) but was told that sideview transducers don't work through fiberglass like other transducers.

If it doesn't work I'll sell the transducer and still have a good chartplotter.
   

Is it practical to install a masthead wind transducer with the mast up?  I don't have an existing transducer.  The biggest disadvantage I've read is difficulty fishing through existing conduit and risk of cable mast slap.  Placing twist ties every few feet supposedly dampens the sound.

For those who've had it done, what can I expect to have a rigger due the up-high work?

How about wireless?  Does the higher purchase cost offset installation cost and reliability risk?

We sailed from Michigan City, Indiana to Chicago (Belmont Harbor) which is 33 miles in 4.5 hours yesterday. This was an average speed of 7.3 knots, faster than hull speed!  Winds were northeast in the high teens and we saw some 6' waves.

Boat handled very well.  The only problem was a little water coming in from the v-berth hatch.  Only one of us got sea sick.  The other two were having a blast.

Donnybrook is still sailing fine after 29 years!

I'm considering installing an A/C unit in Donnybrook, my 1990 C34.  I'm always been in the "unplug everything and close all through-hulls when leaving the boat camp."  One of the appeals of the A/C is to keep the boat cool and de-humidified while I'm away, however leaving power on and through-hulls open makes me nervous.

One thought I had is to run a second shore power connection to run only the A/C.  That would allow me to turn off the power to the 25+ year old wiring while running only the A/C all week.  I'd still have one open through-hull, but that's less risk than 5 open through-hulls.

Questions for people with air conditioners:
1.  How long does it take you to cool off the boat?  Think noon Chicago sun, 90+ degrees, high humidity?  I'm leaning toward a 16k BTU unit.
2.  Are there other downsides besides cost and installation effort to having a second shore power cable dedicated only to A/C?  I estimate the only device I couldn't run with a single 30 amp shore power while running the A/C is the water heater.

Thanks in advance for your advice!

Kyle Ewing
Donnybrook #1010 (1990)
Chicago

The polar diagram on this site is for genoa and main only.  Can anyone share or point me toward a polar diagram for the Catalina 34 with Asymmetrical spinnaker?

I have a 6 year old Optima group 34 starter Barry charged through an Echo Charge.  Due to a wiring problem from the echo charge it wasn't charging late last year and was left at about 50 percent charge over the winter.

This year battery voltage at rest is 12.5.  Turning the key drops it to 11.9. Battery voltage while engine is running and charging through Echo Charge is 12.2 volts.  I remember 13 volts from last year.  Voltage from the Echo Charge when not connected to start battery is 14.1.

The engine still turns over and starts as it should.  Any reason not to believe the battery is on its last leg?  Next step is to remove the battery and have it load tested.

Lost forward gear so I replaced with new. This is a good candidate for rebuild. From a 1990 Catalina 34 with M25-XP and 1300 hours.

I've seen core value from $200 to $350.  Replaced with new ZF10m for $1052.  Please make offer. Located in Chicago. 

PM me here or email kyle (at) saildonnybrook.com if interested or if you need more info.

I have a 1990 (hull #1010) with almost 1300 hours on the M25XP and Hurth transmission that doesn't consistently shift into forward gear.

Recently we motored or motor sailed most of the 300+ miles back from Mackinac Island, including 15 hours straight from Grand Haven to Chicago.  The only transmission problem was occasionally when cold it would hesitate for a few seconds before engaging in forward gear.  This never happened when warm.

The morning after the 15 hour motor we went out and it took a few tries to engage forward gear.  This past weekend the same thing.  At dock I adjusted the shifter linkage and changed the transmission fluid twice.  Before changing the fluid was a dull red and at the proper level. 

Symptoms:
•   Reverse always works.
•   About half the time the engine doesn't fully engage in forward.  When it partially engages the prop spins and moves the boat at only 1-2 knots regardless of engine speed.
•   To engage in forward I bring the engine back to idle then reapply power.  I don't have to touch the shift lever.

I have some decision points I'd like your input on:
•   When to address-- Do the symptoms indicate a major failure is imminent or gradual decline in reliability?  I know sooner is better.
•   Do myself or hire out.  I know the entire engine will have to move forward into the galley to service the transmission.  I'm confident I can do it, especially after replacing engine mounts last year, but may have to have it done due to time.  I figure two days of my time, day 1 removing the engine and transmission.  Day 2 reinstalling and aligning.
•   Repair or replace—Do the symptoms indicate a new/rebuilt transmission is needed or is there a serviceable part that will return reliability?  Could it still be a cable issue?  Any miracle cures?  I understand the damper plate should be replaced regardless.
•   If I replace the transmission, rebuild or go with a ZS 6 or ZS 10?

What is happening inside the transmission to cause this, a slipping clutch, bad springs or bearings preventing it from engaging, or something else?

Thanks in advance for your ideas!

I'm sailing Donnybrook in this year's Chicago Mac race.  This'll be my 5th year sailing on Donnybrook!  I'm optimistic as I put her on a serious diet:  I took off all the misc. spares from various projects over the years, removed the inflatable dinghy from under the V-Berth (70+ pounds), took off unneeded foul whether gear (I found 3 pairs of boots I didn't know I had), and in general anything I haven't touched for more than 3 years.  I guess 300 pounds.  She even sits nicer on her waterline.

You can track us using Yellowbrick Race Tracking (http://gae.yb.tl/chicagomack2012) and follow on Twitter (https://twitter.com/Saildonnybrook), or our blog (www.saildonnybrook.com).

Has anyone quantified how weight affects a Catalina 34's sailing performance?  In other words, is there a formula that says if you have two Catalina 34s identical except for a X pound weight difference, the lighter one will sail Y faster in light air, but at Z knots of wind they will be equal?  I know weight placement and point of sail make a difference.

I hear about skippers becoming weight nazis on racing boats.  How much does it matter on our boats?  At what point does it become material?  Would I notice if I remove the 60 pound rolled up inflatable from under my V-berth?  What if I emptied the water tanks and half the fuel? 

I'm preparing for the Chicago Yacht Club's Verve Distance Race in two weeks and, after sailing really slow in this year's Mac race, I want to feel competitive.

By the way, my ORR rating certificate (based on sister ship measurement) says Donnybrook should weigh 13,608 lbs.  That's light by other accounts here, but heavier than the design weight.

Thanks for your opinions!

Short question:  I replaced my fuel lift pump with the Napa 610-1051 and now my fuel and temperature guages bounce very slightly with the new pump.  Is this normal or do I have a problem with the ground?

Long explanation:  I was checking filters after a loss in RPM--A drop from 2500 to 2000 after motoring 7+ hours, it corrected after backing throttle to idle.  I checked the Racor and drained the bowl but it was clean.  When I turned the key to start the engine there was no clicking from the fuel pump. 

While checking voltage the pump came back to life.  I went ahead and got a spare pump just in case (Napa 610-1051 as described here, http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=2515.0).  The next day (today) we motor sailed for another 7+ hours.  All worked with no RPM drop, however the fuel pump wasn't clicking.  It had voltage so I replaced it.

The new pump doesn't click like the old, rather "rumbles" so I'll take the slight guage bounce as indication it works.  What are other experiences?

Again, THANK YOU to all who contribute to the body of knowledge on this board.  I'm much more confident knowning that just about anything I'll encounter has been discussed here.  In this case, I searched raplacement fuel lift pump on my Blackberry and texted the part number to a friend who picked it up for me.

FYI, someone mentioned the Napa 610-1051 isn't available.  My friend found it and it matches Stu's picture.  There's also a Napa 610-1050 which is a higher pressure version of the same pump.

Donnybrook leaves for the 103rd Chicago Race to Mackinac (http://www.cycracetomackinac.com/) Friday!  Follow us on the tracking web page: http://race.ionearth.com/2011/cycracetomackinac/.  Find Cruising Section 2 and look for Donnybrook. 

Time permitting, I'll also write about my experiences at www.saildonnybrook.com.  We'll see how my various improvements (electric head, new engine mounts, LED lighting down below, improving reefing system, etc) work.

Lake Michigan Sailors,

I'm involved with the Chicago Yacht Club's Verve Cup committee this year.  We're promoting the Verve Cup distance race to be held Saturday, August 20 (Chicago Air and Water Show Weekend).  The Verve Cup Distance race started last year and is in addition to the 3 day regatta over the same weekend.  The entire regatta attracts two hundred plus boats.

The distance race is a roughly 20 mile course starting and returning from north of downtown Chicago (near the Wilson Crib).  We're offering a fun event that appeals to the more casual racer and cruising sailor.  We're planning Jib and Main, ORR Cruising, and Full Racing sections.

The entry fee of $2.50/foot includes social events and rafting at Monroe Harbor (some limitations, see NOR).

There's also the opportunity to form a one design section.  How many Catalina 34 owners would be interested in racing?  I'd love to meet and sail with other Catalina 34s.  It could be the backdrop for a midwest Catalina 34 regatta (see 2011 Officers Meeting Notes in the C34IA section of the forum).

Is anyone interested in participating?  Here's a link to the Notice of Race (NOR):  (http://www.yachtscoring.com/event_documents/495/2011_verve_nor.pdf). 

I also wrote an article in my blog about the race and why I'm participating:  http://www.saildonnybrook.com/2011/06/chicago-yacht-clubs-verve-cup-distance.html

Leave your ideas here or contact me directly via email (kyle (at) saildonnybrook.com), or this board's private messaging.

I look forward to hearing from you!

I changed the engine mounts on Donnybrook, 1990 #1010, yesterday.  Thanks to Ron and everyone else for their advice.  The Wiki article was excellent!  There were very few surprises.

The main lesson learned for me is to watch how how far I try to raise the rear of the engine.  I'd like to have a few more inches of exhaust riser clearance, but was able to get the rear off.  

The other thing I noticed is the engine moves A LOT more with the shaft disconnected than with it connected.  I checked engine movement before connecting the shaft and was concerned that it was excessive until I reconnected the shaft.

I wrote about it in my blog and added some pictures.  See http://www.saildonnybrook.com/2011/04/changing-engine-mounts.html.  There really isn't any new information because the job is so well documented on the Wiki and this forum, but it reinforces what to me were some of the key points.

[Converting space to storage?]

Cory's thread about turning the aft water tank into a holding tank got me thinking about finally repairing mine.  It has a crack from before I purchased Donnybrook (1990 #1010, sugar scoop transom).

I read the other posts that say it's possible to remove, but am having trouble.  I removed the panels and hoses (vent, fill, drain) but can't work it around the cables.  I removed the port side piece of frame so it slides side to side but still can't get it around the cables.

I attached two pictures showing the space.  The tank can only lift a few inches because of the quandrant.  It won't move starboard due to the hull.  I have less than a foot to move it port.  It won't move aft because of the tank frame.  There is some play in the cables but they're pulled about as far as a dare in the picture. 

Ron or anyone else who has removed the tank:  Is this what you encountered?  How do I work the tank out?  I don't see where it'll come out with the cables in place, but want to verify before I give up and start disconnecting engine cables.

Converting space to storage?
The tank takes up a large space.  Similar to Cory, I haven't missed the fresh water capacity on the Great Lakes.  Has anyone considered leaving it out for easy access to the steering quandrant, or even using it for storage?  It looks to be 2-3 times the volume of the aft hanging locker.  A good size duffel bag or other personal items would fit nicely there.

Kyle Ewing
Donnybrook #1010
Belmont Harbor, Chicago
www.saildonnybrook.com

I bought new 6 volt golf cart batteries this year and want to treat them right.  Other than freezing (no risk as long as they're charged), will storing them in the boat over the winter damage them?  I figure I'll top them off periodically (can only charge while I'm visiting the boat) but self discharge will be slower than in my basement.  In the boat they'll be charged with my Truecharge 40.

If I bring them home they'll discharge faster in my basement but I can more frequently hook up a charger (automotive charger), but have the hassle of moving 280 lbs of batteries.  I don't want to leave them on a charger continuously for fear of losing electrolyte.  I've always considered moving batteries to be tough on them (no facts to back it up, just a feeling).

On this board and others, preferences seem mixed.  Is there a concensus on what's best for batteries?

My boat is a 1990, #1010 with M25XP engine.  While motoring through an anchorage yesterday after a day of sailing I heard what I thought was a slight engine whine, like a belt slipping.  After some investigation found it was coming from the engine instrument cluster.  It started very faintly at about 2000 RPMs and got louder as the engine speed increased, but never as loud as the alarm check when you turn the key on.  We anchored for about an hour.  On our way home it returned.  We motor sailed at 1500 RPMS for about 30 minutes while investigating further, then couldn't reproduce it.  Engine temperature remained at 160.  Engine performance and fluid levels were normal.

It seems electrical but the sound increase was linear with engine speed while it happened.  I haven't checked connections yet.

Has anyone experienced similar symptoms?  The only reference I found to alarm problems is related to loose wiring or bad sensors.  Could the tach wiring be somehow influencing the alarm circuit?

Is the oil pressure alarm an on/off switch?  It seems counterintuitive that oil pressure would drop as RPMs rise.


Thanks in advance for your thoughts!

My radar is mast mounted with a terminal strip at the splice at the base of the mast.  I've been fighting with the video cable (tiny, 3mm coax) for years as the ends are so fragile they require re-soldering every year after stepping.  Tonight I found a solution:  BNC coax connectors.  The coax is RG316.

I ordered the following from Digi-Key (http://www.digikey.com/):
(1) 290-1009-ND, CABLE MOLDED RG58/U 12" w/2 male connectors, $7.95 each
(4, 2 needed plus 2 spares) ARF1674-ND, CONN BNC JACK CRIMP RG316 female socket, $4.06 each

It took me less than an hour to crimp the ends and test.  So far the signal seems much stronger than I've seen before and the connection is much more durable, plus it's easy to disconnect when needed.  We'll see how weather proof it turns out to be.  This might be a fix for broken GPS antenna cables and other coax wires.

I hope this helps someone with a similar problem.

Yesterday while delivering Donnybrook (1990, M25XP) to the harbor the fresh water pump failed.  Symptoms were a periodic grinding sound and antifreeze dripping from the pump.  The pulley wobbled side to side and I found a number of bearings in the engine compartment.  Thankfully it didn't freeze up completely and engine temp didn't rise.

It looks like I need the pump, bypass nipple, and a gasket and I'll be looking at Tractor Smart for the Kubota equivalents.

Has anyone else changed the pump and is there anything I should be concerned about (i.e. chance of antifreeze in the oil)?  I haven't found reference to this problem on this page and other sites have said this pump failure is rare.

I start the 2009 Race to Mackinac Friday, 3:00 pm start.  This year the cruising division leaves a day early to give us "slow" boats an extra day to enjoy the island.  The forecast is for NW winds around 15 knots which puts it in the c34's sweet spot based on the polars!  After the race I'm planning on 10 days to return and enjoy Michigan ports.  I hope to anchor out more and am sure I'll have experiences to share and questions.

Track my progress at http://www.cycracetomackinac.com/ and http://maps.iboattrack.com/races/2009_chicago_mackinac/htdocs/.  Look for "Donnybrook" in Cruising Section 2.

I look forward to testing my off-season improvements including:
*  Link 10 battery monitor
*  Alternator temperature sensor
*  Single line reefing system for both reefs (I'll post pictures if it proves effective)

Kyle Ewing
Donnybrook #1010
Belmont Harbor, Chicago

I have a Forespar ML2 steam/deck light on which I need to replace the deck light bulb.  Does anyone know the bulb type or cross reference information to Forespar's part #132035?  My brother went up the mast to look at it.  He got it working after cleaning the contacts but it since went out so I don't have the bulb in my hands to compare.

I want to add single line reefing to my 1990 Catalina 34.  I have the factory two line reefing.  Postings here seem to be 3-1 in favor of two line reefing due to friction and inability to tighten the clew, however I prefer single line reefing because I want to rig both reefs to be ready and don't want the complexity of 4 lines, plus I've sailed on at least one other boat with single line reefing that worked fine.

I'd like feedback on my plan and whether or not it might eliminate the problems others have with single line reefing:

1.   Follow the layout of the Harken single line reefing system (see http://www.harken.com/pdf/4171.pdf).  Would I eliminate much friction by using two blocks instead of the bulls eye fairlead?  I plan to use Garhauer series 25 blocks.
2.   Use blocks in the clew reef cringle as described at http://www.catalina380.org/article_display.asp?ID=114.
3.   Reef lines will go to a double block at the mast and be redirected back via deck organizers.
4.   Use very low stretch line.

Deck organizer question:  I have the original doubles on each side.  Can I stack my existing organizers as I plan to replace one with a triple.  Is adding a triple as simple as drilling and tapping the third hole?  Do our boats use the size 30 (2") or 40 (2 5/8") organizers?

Note:  The November, 2003 Technote gives me an error when I tried to download it.

Kyle Ewing
Donnybrook #1010
Chicago

I recently installed a Xantrex Linklite.  With all circuits off (main battery switch off, echo charge and radio memory disconnected) it fluctuates between 0 and .1 amps of draw.  I can't find anything else drawing and can't find any current leaks when following Calder's guide.

Has anyone experienced this or is current draw reliably 0 when everything is off?

The specifications read "Readout resolution:  +- .1 amp" and "Current measurement:  +- .4%".  I opened a ticket with Xantrex to see if this is a known problem, defect, or installation problem but haven't received a response.

Thanks in advance for your assistance.

Kyle Ewing
Donnybrook #1010
Belmont Harbor, Chicago

Two misc. questions:
For those who emptied their fuel tanks for cleaning, how fast does the fuel pump move fuel?  I estimate I'll need to remove 7-10 gallons to drain the tank.  How long should it take? 

How much resistance when turning the shaft by hand is normal?  I know too little is a problem.  I recently changed my cutless bearing and now the prop shaft is much more difficult to turn by hand than on nearly all the neighboring boats.  I can still spin it by tightly grabbing the shaft with one hand and pouring water through it helps so I imagine it'll break in.

Thanks for your help!

Had a great race!  Will post more in the near future.

After nearly completely discharging the batteries (4 Trojan T105s) to 11.97 volts I was finally able to run the engine at cruise speed.  After several minutes I noticed a wierd smell.  We diagnosed it as the Blue Circle 100 amp alternator putting running at high capacity.  After running longer it continued to get hot, to the point of the alternator door being hot to the touch.

There were no signs of belt slippage (i.e. squeeling) and the belt tension was as it should be.  Is this hot an alternator normal when charging completely discharged batteries or might I have a partially slipping belt or other problem?

Watch my progress as I compete in the 100th running of the Chicago/Mackinac race at http://charthorizon.com/races/2008_chicago_mackinac/htdocs/.  The race starts Saturday.  Look for "Donnybrook" competing in Cruising Section 2.  There's one other Catalina 34 in the race, Slainte out of Detroit.

This board and its members have been invaluable to my preparations over the previous year.  Thanks to all for your contributions!

Kyle Ewing
Donnybrook #1010
Belmont Harbor, Chicago

Anyone have experience flying their cruising spinnaker without the main sail to improve downwind performance?  Stress-wise it shouldn't be any worse than sailing under genoa alone.  The advantage I see is the main is no longer blocking the spinnaker.  The disadvantages are in dousing the spinnaker (nothing to block the wind) and possible stability problems.  What about reefing the main to allow more wind to get to the spinnaker? 

I searched but didn't see anything else written about it here.