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Topics - Steve S.

#1
Main Message Board / globe impeller for oberdorfer
April 19, 2010, 04:15:29 AM
Any one have the part number handy?  I've searched the site and can't seem to find it.  815?

Thanks
#2
Main Message Board / Main Sail Bolt Stop
November 09, 2009, 01:56:33 PM
Well, it happened.  Every year, some critical part slips out my hand and falls into the water.  This year, while de-commissioning the boat and removing the sails, I dropped the gnurled bolt that screws into the mast to keep the mainsail from falling out of the mast.   :?

I looked on Catalina direct but could not find it.  I believe its a standard size bolt.  Anybody know the screw size, offfhaned?   

#3
Main Message Board / Adjusting Valve Lash
July 28, 2009, 07:07:43 AM
This is my next project.   I've searched all through the web site and haven't found much on this other than the tech page from the engine manual and some notes Ron wrote in 1999.  Does anyone have any hints, tips, etc.   Thanks to all
#4
Main Message Board / New Injectors Installed
July 27, 2009, 05:59:31 AM
I installed new injectors last weekend and finally went for my first extended motor.  Good news and bad news.  First the good.  Taking out the old injectors and installing the new ones was alot easier than I thought it would be (thanks to Hank Recla's instructions).  The hardest part was bending back the banjo and avoiding crimping the lines.  (Hint - very slowly.)   I didn't need the breaker bar to get the old ones out, but as Ron so aptly says, there is too much damn paint on these engines and I had a wrench in one hand and a vacuum in the other.  Only addition to Hank's instruction would be that a toothbrush was handy for cleaning the threads in the engine block before installing the new injectors.  The engine does have more power at lower RPM's, and the white smoke issues that I have but were lessened considerably.  Now the bad - At certain rpm's, especially lower, the harmonic knocking that I have is worse, esp. 800-1000 (idle speed).  It really smooths out at about 1800, and then gets a little knocky at 2200 and up.  All I can figure is that the engine is running more powerfully and the valves are knocking more.  Any ideas?  I have new motor mounts, so it could be related to that, but not sure.

   
#5
Main Message Board / Forward Hatch Repair
April 27, 2009, 10:18:12 AM
The forward hatch leaks due to deterioration of the dog seals.  I've looked on-line at Bomar sites but cannot seem to match the exact hatch I have on my 1988.  Therefore, I've been reluctant to buy the replacement dogs shown on various web-sites. 

I've looked all over the hatch and cannot find a model number to save my life.  Also, the parts list on-line here does not provide enough detail.

Anybody replaced the dogs (or seals)?

Thanks 
#6
Main Message Board / White Smoke from Engine
September 22, 2008, 12:48:43 PM
I have a 1988 MX-25 with about 650 hours.

I've been getting white smoke all summer when running the engine at about 1600 rpm and up.  I've read past posts and most people believe that white smoke is steam from poor raw water flow.  But I don't think that's it. 

I think it may be from something else.  For whatever reason, the engine just doesn't push me as fast as it used to.  I probably hit 5.5 knots on flat water with no current, it used to hit 6.2.  While the engine revs to 3000 while in neutral, I'm lucky to get to 2000 rpm under load.   I've read in other past posts that getting lots of white smoke at hi rpm is caused by too much fuel and poor combustion.  I tend to think that's it.

I did change the motor mounts and the cutlass bearing last season but that shouldn't affect performance.  The shaft seems to turn easily.  (It does run smoother with the Vetus motor mounts.)

The question I have is what can I do about poor combustion short of a ring job?.  Also, do folks think a tinkering of the valves may help?  The engine runs smoothly and don't hear any pinging that would be associated with bad valve seating.   

Thanks
#7
Main Message Board / Electrical Panel Problems
June 01, 2008, 07:25:24 PM
Got a problem with my electrical panel. I think I already know the answer but I'm gonna ask anyway.  I have the black engraved panel with the rocker switches and the push-in/push out breakers.  On the left side that has cabin, running, accessory, deck light, steaming, and anchor, in that order, only cabin (top) and anchor (bottom)  work.  There is no power to the middle four switches.  I checked by pulling out the connections and touching them to the exposed post on the fuse box, and then checking the line with a meter.  So, I guess the actual rocker switches are malfunctioning.  Before I go to Seward and see what I can replace, has anyone had this issue before?  Any suggestions?
#8
Main Message Board / Installing S1 rudder tansducer
October 23, 2007, 04:57:33 AM
I have been searching for tips on installing the S1 rudder tranducer on a 1988.  Thanks to Bill G and Willie.  I've seen the photos on line but I believe I may have a different configuration as my aft water tank is direct below the steering quadrant, leaving about 1" of clearance.   Anybody else tried this out with the same config?
#9
Main Message Board / Engine Clicking
September 19, 2007, 05:44:49 AM
I know all engines have a "harmonic" vibration, but my engines seems to be extra pronounced lately.  I changed the engine mounts this year and it does appear to be smoother, but now I hearing a clicking that seems louder. I suspect the valves need adjusting.  The engine has about 650 hours on it.  Any suggestions?
#10
I went to the Blue Globe impeller this year in my Oberdorfer and it is causing problems.  I just can't seem to keep a prime.  I checked all the hoses, the seal on the strainer, use new gaskets, and even sanded the face plate of the  pump to a mirror shine.  This is what happens:

I open the seacock at the dock, start'er up and everything is fine.  I head on out and shut her down as soon as the sails are up.  I don't close the seacock again.  Go for a sail and head back usually 4-5 hours later.  (By the way, the wind on the Chesapeake has been fantastic this year, haven't hit a day below 8 knots,  15-25 knots last weekend, 10-15 today, I'm waiting for the payback.)
When we start'er up to head home, the prime is gone.  My wife goes down to the seacock and opens and closes it real fast 2-4 times and the prime comes back.  This never happened with my old rubber impeller, never lost a prime in 5 years.

I still have last years rubber impeller and I am going to install that next time we go out and see if the same thing hapens. 

Anybody else ever have this problem?   
#11
Main Message Board / Extra Keelbolt?
April 24, 2006, 05:42:50 PM
I think I may have solved my weeping keelbolt issue.  I've noticed for the past couple of years that there is a small spot weeping out of the keel.  Never really worried about it. 

When I was cleaning the bilge the other day I was reaching down into the aft chamber and saw the single, centered keelbolt.  I reached further underneath and felt something new. When I finally got all the water and dirt out of there and aimed a flashlight, I noticed a second keelbolt just sticking up.  No washer, no nut.  It is so far back, I don't think you could fit a nut on it anyway.   My theory is that they put it in at the factory and then noticed it was too far back, then put another in the correct spot.  Any one else have this?
#12
After much deliberation, I decide to replacethe fuel tank.  One of thereasons was that the fuel gauge stopped working and I suspected the sender.   Got the job done yesterday. (not fun)  Filled the tank with about 9 gallons of fuel and turned the key, expecting the fuel gauge to pop up to about 3/8's.  No such luck.  The good news is that the gauge needle at least moved a hair, but that's it.  Now I'm down to to more options. Check the wiring to the gauge, or I have a malfunctioning gauge.  Any advice?
#13
Main Message Board / Fuel Tank Replacement
March 30, 2006, 07:39:23 PM
I'm replacing the fuel tank this weekend.  I've  read whatever I can find on site, including Ron's cleaning project, but does anyone have any tips, lessons learned?.  Specifically, anyone have a problem with the fittings for the fuel line and the return line? 
#14
Main Message Board / Cleaning the Diesel Tank
March 15, 2006, 02:37:22 PM
It's my next project.  I know that there have been numerous posts on this, but one question has never been posed or answered:  What do you do with the crap that pours out with the acetone?  I certainly don't want to dump it on the ground.  Suggestions?
#15
Main Message Board / Rust Spot
March 12, 2006, 05:54:14 PM
Went to paint the bottom on Saturday.  (79 degs on the Chesapeake on March 11, couldn't believe it.)   I noticed some rust apparent seeping from the side of my keel about 8 inches down from the bottom of the hull.  Iv'e always had some water in the bilge, mainly due to rain (its always fresh).   I'm thinking tiny leak from the keel bolt.  Should I bee concerned?  Anyone else have this?
#16
Main Message Board / Main Sheet Length
September 26, 2005, 05:52:31 PM
The old mainsheet is just too old and stiff.  Anyone recently replace their mainsheet?  What did you use?  Anyone recall the length?  I have the standard three bail rig to the traveller and the sheet leading to the mast and then down and back to the cockpit.

Thanks for any input.
#17
Main Message Board / Flex-o-fold Prop
June 01, 2005, 04:06:01 PM
Finally got out for an extended trip this Memorial Day weekend and got to try out the new flex-o-fold prop.  I know its pricey, but I would highly recommend it to anyone contemplating a prop change from the fixed 3 blade.  I noticed four big improvements, 1)  significantly reduced prop walk, which is important to me as I must turn to starboard when I back out of my slip, 2) it smoothed out the engine (less vibration at a larger range of RPM's), 3) better speed - ran about 6.1-6.3 knots at 2200 RPM on flat water, and last but not least, 4) 1/2 knot extra when under sail.    :thumb:
#18
Hi Gang:

I have a Hood 915 continuous line furler and I still have the old stanchion mounted double swivel blocks to lead the line back.  This means the line is still on the inside of the life lines and a real trip hazard.  I would like to move the line outside of the life lines but every brand of stanchion block I see would require that I cut the furling line and re-splice, something I would prefer not to do.  

How have others handled this situation?

Thanx,
#19
Main Message Board / Adjustment Nuts on the Engine Mounts
September 16, 2004, 03:32:02 PM
The adjustment nuts on the engine mounts seem to have developed an annoying problem.  They are constantly loosening on their own.   The engine mount nuts have one nut below the engine mount and two above.  The top ones are no problem, as with two, they automatically lock in place,  but the bottom ones on each mount loosen after I run the engine for any period of time.  I don't see any way to lock the bottom nuts, any ideas?
#20
Main Message Board / Engine Alignment
August 08, 2004, 07:07:50 PM
I seem to have an alignment problem.  I've read all the advice on the board about how to align the engine to the shaft, but I think it may not quite apply.  I have a plastic coupling on the shaft.  It's not a bullflex.  It's a solid red plastic coupling which is supposed to snap and break if the prop experiences severe stress while in gear, thereby saving the tranny from damage.   Put on by PO and I don't have the brand and type.  The shaft appears to enter the flange properly and fits very snug and when I turn it manually there doesn't appear to be any play.   However, when I put the engine in gear, there is clearly some vibration.  More than when the engine is out of gear.   OK here is my question:  Is it the space between the shaft and the inside of the coupling that needs to be within .003 of an inch?  Just where do you measure?
#21
Main Message Board / Knotmeters
May 12, 2004, 04:39:09 PM
Anyone have advice on getting the knotmeter to work?  I clean it, and it seems to spin freely, but then when I put the sender unit back, it rarely works.  Has anybody found where you can get a new sender unit?  I'd rather not have to replace the instument panel.
#22
Main Message Board / Transmission Leak
April 04, 2004, 12:22:51 PM
I might have small problem (or not).  I opened up the engine compartment to begin de-winterizing and noticed about 3 or 4 ounces of transmission fluid collected below the engine.  When I looked at the transmission itself, it appeared that there was a leak from the point where the linkage enters the transmission housing.  The leak is very slow as I had the transmission filled with fluid since November.  I believe the working fluid level is below the transmission linkage entry point, so this may not be an issue at all.  Any thoughts?

On a more positive note, I used a different method of removing the excess transmission fluid.  Bought a turkey baster and attached a 1/4 inch hose to the end using a heat-shrink rubber hose (the ones you use for electrical connections). Then I measured the dipstick to get the correct fluid depth for the fluid and marked that on the 1/4 inch tube.  Then I took a small section of 3/8 inch tube and ran it over the 1/4 inch to mark that line.  That way, when I put the 1/4 inch hose in the dipstick hole, it stopped right at the correct fill depth.  While a little slow, it worked great, and was much less messy and more precise than the electric pump I used in the past.  The only modification to the baster was to tighten the bulb to the baster body with a hose clamp.
#23
Main Message Board / Replacement Rub Rail Colors
March 09, 2004, 04:37:20 PM
I have been seeing alot of discussion on rub rails lately and it has piqued my interest in replacing mine.  However, I have the "camel" colored hull and so only the tan will do.  (White would be weird and black too showy).   Has anyone ordered that color?  Is it a true tan?

I ask because my current rub rail is that yellow/gum eraser color and I would hate to order a new one just to find out the tan is actually the same gum eraser color.
#24
Any hints or tips on bleeding the fuel line on the M25XP.  I'm replacing the fuel filters for the first time.  I know to soak the new filters before installing, but that's about it.  Would like to take advantage of all the experience out there.