Topics

I'm in Florida, boat is in Mexico. I want to change my round head bolts to a hex head. Does anyone know what size bolt I need to bring to Mexico? Thanks in advance!
DarBay is a 1986 C34 mkI hull# 84

We are sailing in Mexico.. we are currently having an engine over temp issue.
1) if we keep the rpm below 1800 it seems to run ok.
2)over 1800 rpm the temp slowly creeps up to at least 200, then I put her in neutral and rev engine  to cool her down.
3) when she is running hot, there is no steam in the engine compartment.
4) there is some gray soot (not black diesel) in the compartment below the head sink.

What I have done
1) pulled raw water pump look good, checked water flow to the riser and exchanger flow looks
Normal
2) pulled heat exchanger it was clean. We recently had it boiled at a radiator shop (2017)
Questions
1) is there a way to check flow on the freshwater (antifreeze) side. When looking at the antifreeze with the cap off there does not seem to be much flow
2) is there a way to see if there is a blockage riser?

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated

We were sailing from San Diego to Cabo San Lucas Mexico.
About 100 miles from Cabo our fresh water pump failed. Bearing went out.

1) Bob on another boat came up with an idea to rerout the hoses of the fresh water pump to the
Raw water, therefore running salt water on the fresh water side.
2) it work great. Engine temperature ran between 140° And 160°
3) running engine without a belt felt very weird. Had to disconnect the alternator. Glad we had solar panels
And a Honda generator to keep the batteries up.
4) salt water wept out of the fresh water pump. Every time we stop I rinsed the engine with fresh water.
Still shows some signs of rust and scaling
5) I have been doing this for 5 days.
6) we are now in La Paz and the new water pump is being delivered tomorrow
7) Going to run fresh water through engine, then add anti freeze

Any thoughts on anything I should do?

Thanks
Brad

I have a major water heater leak.
With waterpressure turned on, water flows out the drain hose.
This hose is located on the pressure relieve value.
It flows at the normal rate that would normally come out of the faucet.
At the faucet it just sputters.

Do you think the pressure relief is bad, the whole water heater or something else?

At least the water in the bilge is nice and warm

I have replaced 3 lewmar port gaskets. Dry fit only. No silicone. ( very hard to do )

We checked to make sure they they did not leak using a water hose. No leaks. Yea!

However, instructions say to take off gasket and apply a thin bead of silicone then place the gasket back in. I am thinking of ignoring this step. Just how important is a thin bead of caulk?

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

I want to built a Battery Box Platform. One where I can screw a Plastic battery box to.
What is the best / easy way to attach the platform to the hull? I would prefer not to screw it in.
But I need it strong enough to keep the battery from moving around.
any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.

We got a prop wrap. While anchoring off Italian Gardens Catalina.  Enough to stop the engine. It was a quick hard stop.  I was able to dive  over board and cut the lines off the shaft and prop, there was a line wedge between the rudder and hull, not to tight, I was able to clear this by hand. We started up the engine and all seems ok. After getting the anchor set, we spent the night at anchor. The next day we motored to Avalon. About two miles. Again everything seems ok. Except
1)  the tackometer is not working, not sure if this is a cause of the sudden stop or just something else.
2) belt is a little loose. I will tighten today.

Is there something else I need to look at because of the sudden stop to the engine?


thanks
Brad

I have a 86 mk1. Anyone know what the thickness of the transom is?

Just replaced the old Oberdorfer with a new one. Can I have the old rebuilt?

I have a harken self tacking jib traveler. It came off my C34.  Looking for $200 plus shipping

I am replacing a fixed port window. Above the galley and aft stateroom.

I removed the window and used denature alcohol to clean the remaining silicon. This window Frame had a black paint that came off very easy with this alcohol. Any ideas what type of paint this would be. Should I repaint this before I caulk this ? I plan on using Dow 795 ( if I can find it).

Folks,
I am getting salt water on the floor of my head.

1) it does not happen all the time, never when I motor, just when sailing.
2) it seems like it is not leaking, then someone goes downstairs and there is water on the floor.
3) I can not find where the water is coming from.

Any thoughts or hints would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Brad

I have ordered a teak louvered door 12in x 12in. I am going to place it for easier access to the storage under the V-Breth.  I will need to cut a hole in the V-Berth.

What type of blade should I use? I plan on cutting it with jig saw. Any ideas on how to cut, I am afraid the plastic will start vibrate and maybe split.  I do not what to mess this up. Any thoughts or suggestion would be greatly appreciate.

Thanks
Brad

I am placing an in hull adjustable angle transducer. Does anyone have a idea what the dead rise angle is?


I have a 86 MK1.

Thanks
Brad

I normally place my transmission in reverse while sailing. However last weekend I placed it in neutral. I noticed a new noise ( grrh,grrh,grrh) like a bearing going bad.  When I placed it in reverse the noise went away. When I cranked up the engine I did not notice any bearing noise.

Any thoughts on what this could be? Cutlass? Transmission?  and how to figure out what is the problem and how To fix it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance
Brad

Below is a picture of the base of my radar pole. As you see the base rides on top of the stanchion base. This causes the base not to sit flat. The PO put washer and a lot of RTV. I do not want to do that.
So I want to make a spacer to raise the base of the radar pole to be even with the base of the stanchion. Question.

What should I make this spacer out of?
1)StainLess steel
2)wood (teak)
3)marineboard
4)Other

Thanks
Brad

I received some LXS Yatch braid (7/16) pretty cheap. Do you think this will work in place of the LXS extra T (7/16).
I plan on using it for my jib sheet.

Name           Tensile   Strands     Elastic Elongation
LXS Yatch      5,800       16         1.5% / 2.2 % / 2.9 %
LXS Extra T    6,100       25         0.5% / 0.8 % / 1 %

The stretch seems like a lot. With a 50ft sheet with a 30% load it  could stretch about 1.5 ft vs. 0.5ft
Seeing that I already have the Yatch Braid, would you use it or just get the Extra T.

Thanks
brad

Well, after 3 short years we are moving DarBay from San Carlos Mexico to San Diego Ca. Due to time constraints we are having her trucked.  No Baja Bash for us.

I am looking for advice how to prepare her for the (55mph) windward leg out of mexico.

Thanks
Brad

Getting ready to replace my cockpit drains. They are cracked and do not look so good. I have read where folks have thought it was a good idea to put in larger ones. Has anyone done this? If so how big did you go?
Any suggestion on which drain to use?

Thanks
brad

This last weekend. My Head crapped out.

I had always used Vegtable oil on the pump handle and in the bowl. However,  this weekend I  used vaseline. Pretty soon after that it seemed like all the gaskets melted.

1)Do you think this head was made with natural rubber and the petroleum product ruined everything?

I had no suction (bringing raw water in). However if I put water in the bowl I could pump it to the tank.
2)So maybe some parts still work?

I would like to replace all the gaskets, values , fitting etc... Maybe keeping the bowl,seat, and lid.

3)Is the GROCO Master Head Repair Kit, everything I need?

or would it be better to replace it with another unit completely

Thanks
brad

We placed a couple of cheap throw rugs on our cabin floor. In the Mexican summer the rubber backing melted on the floor. I would love to get this up. I have tried alcohol. It did not work. Does anyone have a magic chemical that might be able to remove this rubber backing?

DarBay has a rigid Vang. Is there any  need to keep the Topping lift?
What are the pros and cons?

Thanks
Brad

I have read in several places about scoring on the Oberdorfer FacePlate. That it needs to be sanded smooth.

I have a couple of questions.

1) How smooth does it need to be? I have circular score marks that I can see, however I can rub my finger over these marks and it feels pretty smooth.

2) How does this scoring effect the water flow / water temp?

Thanks
brad

Did something pretty stupid this weekend. I wanted to replace the zinc in Heat Exchanger. I could not get the old one out. Well I got out the breaker bar. Then I broke the nipple or flange that the zinc screws into. I did not realize that there was a place to put an opposing wrench. So, the damage is done and is fixed.

I think there was a small drip when I put the since in 6 months ago, so I tighten it up pretty good.

I now want to put in a new zinc. Can I put Teflon tape / copper or Teflon washer on the zinc?

Stu,

I have the Prestolite / Louisville Alt.
Regulator ??? I can not remember the name:  it is black with four wires coming out the back (2 yellow, 1 red and 1 black) it also has  two green wires attached internally to two connectors. I will be back on DarBay tomorrow and let you know.

things I have checked
1)I checked for loose wires did not find any.
2)Alt spun freely (bearings not fried?)
3)replaced regulator. Did not make a difference.
4)I have a inverter / charger. When I hook up to shore power. I got 13.5 v at the house bank.  (did not check the starter battery) I am not 100% sure if the inverter/charger can affect the alt or not. At some point they have to be connected. So if the Alt was shorted it would also short out the charger??

Things to do

1) I have a spare alt, will replace it  tomorrow.
2) How do you checked to see if the diodes are fried?
3) Does anyone know what type of voltage I should see at the reg?

Thanks
brad

I am getting ready to truck DarBay from San Carlos Mexico to San Diego.
I am looking for a do to list that will get the boat prepared to make the trip.
Questions like

Fuel Tanks full or empty?
Water Tanks full or empty?
Leave anchors in locker or store them below.
Dodger down?
Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated

I have ordered two 8' cleats from Catalina Direct.
They did not come with bolts,nuts,washers, Backing plates.
Beckson deckplate is on order.

DarBay is in Mexico. I need to gather all the above for
my next trip down south.
Here is my question.

1)How long of a bolt do I need to go thru the deck?
2)What should I make my backplates from? I read where
Ron built his out of Lexan, I do have some Lexan laying around.
or should I go buy some stainlees steel? How thick?

Thanks
Brad of DarBay

Here are the details.

1)Yesterday I changed the impeller, and pencil zinc. (first time)
2)ran the motor on the dock for about 1 hr, no problem, My engine
typically runs around 190.
3) went out for a sail, motored out to the Sea of Cortez, engine ran
another 45min or so.
4)sailed around for about 3 hours. Notice a storm coming and crank up the
iron Genny to head home.
5)within 15 min the high temp lite came on.
6)Check all my work and it look like it was OK.
7)Water was coming  out of the exhaust. However when it starting overheating
no water was coming out of the exhaust.
8)nursed DarBay home. Going to try and fix her today.


Questions
1)When I change the pencil zinc there was a lot of bits of corrosion. In fact the old zinc had nothing on it.Could this corrosion block a jet or port leaving the Hx
2)I would like to take the Hx exchange apart and clean it. However I have no spare parts for this. Is it possible reuse the o-rings and  gaskets.
3)Do you take both sides of the heat exchanger off? I have look around this site for a how to on the Hx. but could not find it. Internet connection is not the best.

Impeller
1)I remove the plate and it had water in it. So I think it is pulling raw water in.


Any ideas would be greatly appreciated

At west marine now. Does anyone know what size spreader boot a 1988 c34 need?
Spreader tips 2-1/4" x 11/16" or
3-1/4" x 1"

DarBay is a 1986 MK I

1)I have notice that  my mast is raked forward about 4in or so. Very noticeably.
2)The BackStay is very loose and the turn buckle is as tight as it will go. I can not make it any shorter.
3)There seems to be a reasonably about of weather helm and no lee helm.
4)A rigger has told me that most C34 and C30 are normal with a forward Rake and that this rake is more appearance,  than actual rake .
5)I am not sure if my forward stay can be adjusted any more but will check this weekend.
Questions
1)Do most C34's sail with a forward rake and is there more rake in appearance than actual?
2)When I change out the backstay, I want to add a SSB antenna, Has any one done this?
3)I have had several different opinions about the Rake.
Rake: It Allows you to point into the wind more. No No Rake adjust the weather helm or lack of. No No rake allows you to get a better downwind sail shape. Question what does the rake or lack of really do?

I am going to replace the sailcovers on DarBay.
Any thoughts on if one color holds up better than another?

Just got back from a 1 1/2 week trip in the sea of cortez. (My first cruise, Had a blast, the only complaint from my crew was, if you got an item to close to the Cold Blue Cold plate it froze. Nice problem to have.)

I wound up motoring about 20 hours. I notice a build up of black soot on the transmom (enough to write your name in) and the oil in the engine is about 1/8 below full. Normaling I do not motor more than 1 1/2 hour per month. So I have not notice any build up or low oil in the dipstick.

Question.
1)How much soot is acceptable?
2)Would you expect to lose 1/8 inch of oil in 20 hours of motoring?
3)If this is not normal what could be the cause?

P.S. I heard Black Dragon on the VHF but he could not hear me.

Thanks
brad

DarBay our  1988 C34 is going for its first bottom job.

We are going to use Trinidad SR. That is what the marine yard recommends for
the sea of cortez and Practical Sailor gave it pretty good reviews.

I am looking for how many coats to put on and if there is anyway to tell if the
prep and paint job is done correctly.
Example
When you paint on fiberglass can you get orange peel etc ..
Any thoughts would be grealty appreicated

DarBay our  1988 C34 came with a partically installed manual bilge pump.

1)The hand pump is installed in the cockpit (stern) with a hose going to the
bilge.
2)The output hose just goes into the stern locker.
My question is:
1)Can I connect this hose to the electric bilge pump hose? What type of connection do I need?
2) or do I need to add another thru hull?

We are getting ready to go on our first week cruise.    We will be sailing from San Carlos Mexico to the Midriff Islands ( about 110 NM ). Take a look at http://www.tucsonsailingclub.com  It is pretty remote, therefor I will be cut off from my power cord. No generator or solar panels (yet)

I would like to know if there is a rule of thumb on how long it takes for the alternator to recharge the batteries.
say at 1k RPM or 2k RPM


1)I Have one 90 amp alternator
2) 4  6v golf cart batteries (house)
3) 1 12v starter battery

Thanks
brad

So I went to start DarBay this weekend and the nut that covers the start switch fell off.
The rubber boot is still intact but the metal of the nut is split in three places, it would not screw back on.
What I have done to just get by is some bailing wire and a tie wrap. So
1)The start switch nut is broken
2)The glow plug nut is rather corroded and on its last leg
3)Also the kill cable nut is cracked a little. I would like to replace it, just to be safe
4)I called Catalina Direct:  They do not have these parts
5)I called Seaward Products: They have not returned my call.
6)Is there another vendor that may have these parts?
7) If not is there someone out there that has jury rig a replacement?

Thanks

Brad

I am making a spring line similar to the Nauti Duck Dock-A-Matic. I found the link from this C34ia forum. (thanks) from here (Stu): http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5445.0.html

What size line should I use for a Catalina 34?


Thanks
brad

So I replaced the leaking vented loop from the heat exchanger.
However the loop that I purchased from WM is a little different than the one I  removed from the heat exchanger.

I would like to know.w if the difference is OK or do I need to get a different type of vented loop.

1) A picture is worth a thousand words. I took a pic but it is 1.2M. not sure how to attach a pic that big.
If you know how, please let me know.

About the vented loops

2) Both vented loops are the same, However the caps (valves) are different

3) The leaking vented loop has a spring and ball mechanism. The spring is broken therefore not putting enough tension on the ball. Allow water to seep around the ball.
4)The one I brought from WM has a rubber mechanism called a duck bill (looks  like one too). Is this just a newer design or is it a different type?

Let me know what  you think

Thanks
brad

Changed my profile from my boat name to my name. DarBay to Brad Young
Dar Bay (C34) Hull 84 (1986)
Was on DarBay this weekend and came back with more question.
1)
I have a vented loop in the saltwater intake. It's location is under the head sink. We went motoring for about 6 hrs and I notice a leak coming from this vent. About a large drop per second. Is this normal? If not what can  I do to fix it. Replace the vent??

2) Dock gossip: A guy on the dock said he owned an early C34' that had a foam core hull. I thought all C34's where solid. Is there a way I can check this. (My surveyor said it was solid)
.
3)I am going to order bug busters screen, but I left my hatch measurements on the boat. Does anyone have those numbers on hand?

4)I was cleaning the Rancor filter and one of the fuel clamps broke off. There is a bag of clamps on board, they looked brand new, however when I went to replace the old one, two of the news ones broke off also. ( I know what you are thinking, but I am not that strong.)
So all my clamps and all my spare clamps are suspects. I would like to get a spare hardware shop on boat. Did I metion DarBay is 6 hours away (in Mexico). Any thoughts on what size clamps,bolts,nuts etc....

Thanks
brad

First time posting.

Let me take you back in time .....

Darlene and I  just brought our first sailboat and after a nice afternoon sail, a great dinner on board.  We settle in for our first night sleeping on the boat (DarBay)  I  double check  all the switches, hatches, lights and even some things that I  didn't  know what they were , but I check it anyways.  Set the head up for we could  use it in the middle of the niter  ......  AAAHHHH, zzzzzzz,.  I was  dreaming of sweet Island coconuts and my  lovely wife gets up out of bed to use the head.  You listen, you can not believe how lucky you are ... she figured out how to pump, flip the switch , and pump again.  She comes back  to bed and wishes you a Merry Christmas. After all it is Christmas eve 2009.  AAAHHH, back to blissful sleep, hoping Santa will bring lots of  electronic gadgets and a new windlass.. AAAHHH,zzzzzz But I awoke to such a Clatter, was it Santa and his tiny reindeer .....errrrrrrrrr No not reindeer.... A motor or a pump... I sprang from the bed to see what was the matter  SQUISH... Every sailors nightmare water in the salon. Did I buy a boat with a big hole in it, are we going to sink, Can I  find the leak, more importantly can I fix the leak ... Calm Down Calm down...  Go to the last thing that was fixed or touch that is usually whats broke ( at least at home) Ah the head... rush there and find water gushing out of it. Flip the switch, pump out the excess water . Clean the salon and bilge and averted another crises at sea.  All is well that ends well.

I have since come home and checked out the C34IA website and tech notes (very very nice). Found the mods that Jim Lamb posted . As you may have guessed this has moved to the top of my to do list.  Now for a few questions.

1) Is this preferred method of fixing this problem?
2) I notice that a footnote was added saying that in later models an anti sipion valve was added to the inlet line. Is this something that can be added to an older model? Instead of cutting holes and adding the loop.
If so does anyone have a pic or part number of the valve.
3)I have also read that you can add a charcoal filter to the vent. Does anyone have a picture of a part number of the charcoal filter.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Brad
C34 Hull #84