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Topics - pablosgirl

Pages: [1] 2 3
1
Main Message Board / Shore Power Cord connector replacement
« on: May 11, 2019, 12:35:37 PM »
Hi All,

Six years ago I replaced the shore power inlet and boat cable end with the SmartPlug kit for 30A 125v single phase.  I was checking where this cable meets the 50A "Y" adapter and found that those pin connections are starting to discolor despite my regular maintenance of cleaning and applying dielectric grease to slow down the corrosion.

I was hoping that SmartPlug would have made a male cable end that would go with their female cable end and I could just replace the cable ends on the shore power cord and the "Y" adapter.  I don't want to replace the connectors with the replacement twist lock cable ends because I will end up back in the same position.

I have been looking at pin and sleeve connectors as a possible replacement.  These are what I was considering: http://www.elecdirect.com/pin-sleeve-devices/30-amp-pin-and-sleeve-devices/ip67-iec309-pin-sleeve-connector-30a-125vac-2-pole-3-wire-watertight  and http://www.elecdirect.com/pin-sleeve-devices/30-amp-pin-and-sleeve-devices/ip67-iec309-pin-sleeve-plug-30a-125vac-2-pole-3-wire-watertight  They are IP6y rated as "watertight".  Has anyone else tried this or have you just replaced the cables or the cable ends with the standard NEMA twist lock marine connectors?

Thanks,
Paul & Cyndi

2
Main Message Board / Mounting buss bars in battery compartment
« on: February 15, 2018, 08:37:38 PM »
I have been upgrading my wiring and have reached the point where I have 4 wires attached to each of the positive and negative batery terminals and need to atach my new SmartGauge directly to the batery terminals as well.  I need to add bus bars to shift two of the wires off the battery terminals but the space is already tight with 4 GC2 6volt bateries.  I am looking for sugestions and pictures on where to mount them.  I considered placing them under the sink on the wall common with the batery compartment but that would require driling holes through the bulkhead.

3
Main Message Board / Removing opening lemar ports
« on: January 28, 2018, 09:34:37 AM »
I am atempting to remove the 6 Lemar opening ports in our 1988 to rebed them and i am having trouble removing the botom 4 screws on all the ports.  I suspect that they are corroded in place.  I have been soaking then with PB Blaster but no joy.  Next step it to try a 18v impack driver.  After that heat. Has anyone else had this trouble and what did work for you?

Paul

4
Main Message Board / Balmar SmartGauge on sale for $180
« on: January 14, 2018, 09:17:29 AM »
All,

WestMarine is selling the Balmar SmartGauge on clearance for $180 through 1-15-2018.  This is a Great price 45% off.  https://www.westmarine.com/buy/balmar--smartgauge-battery-monitor--16030900

Paul

5
Main Message Board / Re-bedding Stanchions
« on: December 11, 2017, 07:59:47 PM »
I am re-bedding my stanchion.  I did the vented ones already but I am having trouble figuring out how to move the ash batten panel that is back of the top salon shelves port and starboard.  The stanchions that are near the upper shrouds have their outboard two bolts behind those ash panels. Not sure how they are held in place and don't want to break them.  Anyone know how to move/remove them?

Thanks,
 Paul

6
Main Message Board / Rear Water Tank Leak - WARNING
« on: March 01, 2017, 06:43:04 AM »
I have finally  chased down a mysterious intermittent leak in the aft cabin of our 88' MKI.  It was coming from the aft water tank.  It turns out that the two bottom screws on either end of the fiberglass cover for the steering gear had penetrated into the water tank within 3/4 of an inch from the top edge of the tank.  I discovered the leak by chance when I had filled the tank to overflowing and then a few minutes latter went into the aft cabin to get something.  I saw water leaking out below the steering gear cover and from the bottom of the aft wood panel.  I removed the cover, the port panel, and the aft panel to investigate.  If found two spots where the screws had penetrated the tank and over time had elongated the holes from the tank shifting port and starboard by about a quarter of an inch each way.   It turns out that all the screws were 1 inch long. The bottom outer screws need to be 3/4 inch to avoid penetrating the water tank. There is a recess in the middle top of the tank so the middle bottom screw does not come in contact with the tank.

I would recommend checking your aft water tank to see if your boat has a similar situation.

The water tank is manufactured by Ronco Plastics.  I called them for advice on how to repair the tank. 866-973-0597.  They said that the only way to properly repair the tank was to heat weld it and that an epoxy based repair product would not bond properly to the poly tank. They also said if I would bring the tank by or ship it to them they could repair it for about $20.  However the shipping cost to California and back to Texas was prohibitive.  Instead I had them ship some repair material and I heat welded the tank myself.  I would recommend watching some of the poly tank repair videos on heat welding on youtube.  It helped me get an idea of the technique to use in my repair. 

It was relatively easy and I did it with the tank in place using a heat gun and the thinner strips they sent me.  You want to use thinner repair strips so that you don't over heat the tank and deform it's shape while trying to melt the repair material into the hole.  I started by heating the strip end and then applied the strip to the tank while applying heat to the strip and the tank together. once the material gets hot enough it becomes pliable and "sticky" and you work the repair material into the hole until full.  I added a little more material beyond filling the hole to make sure I had a good bond to the surface of the tank.  Think rivet head.  I let the repairs cool and filled the tank to over flowing to check for leaks. No more leak.  I purchased two 3/4" long SS screws and ground the tips off to insure that they would not scratch through the tank again.
Paul & Cyndi


7
Main Message Board / Replacing boom vang eye strap in mast track
« on: September 07, 2016, 06:08:10 PM »
Hi all,

While sailing in 15 to 20 knot breeze in the Gulf of Mexico the eyestrap holding the boom vang to the mast broke on the end closest to the deck.  Looks like a victim of crevice corrosion.  It looks like that the eye strap slides into the mainsail track and is riveted in place.

I see two ways to replace the eye strap:
1) Drill out existing holes and tap for machine screw and mount the new eye strap external to the main sail track.

2) using the main sail slide entry to place a eye strap into the track and slid it down into place.  This would require removing the boom gooseneck fitting from the mast.  Drilling out 8 SS rivets.

My question to the forum is has this happened to anyone else and how did you replace it.  Also any advice on my proposed methods or other ways of affecting a repair would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Paul

8
Main Message Board / Help with alternator repair
« on: August 10, 2016, 04:10:05 PM »
Hi,
After 8 months our new Leece-Neville 90 amp alternator failed this morning in Marsh Harbpur, Bahamas.  About 45 min into charging the batteries a strong burnt electrical smel occurred and the volt meter dropped from about 14v to around 13 v.  The tack kept working.  I think the internal voltage regulator fried?  I ran the engine to move the boat and it looked like the alternator was working again until I reached 13.5 v and the voltmeter then dropped to 12.5 v. I am going to swap in the old Motorola 55 amp with the Spa-Creek regulator and have the new one tested.  Being in the Bahamas, not sure on parts avalinility.  I called ASC Supply where I bought it, but the only way to get it repaired under warinty is to send it in.  Trying to make it back to Texas by mid Sept and can't wait that long here. 

Anyone have any experience with repairing voltage regulators?  I am assuming one or more of the diodes in the regulators bridge circuit has failed?  Any help would be greatly appreciated.

9
Main Message Board / M25xp leaking oil from top of dip stick
« on: March 21, 2016, 12:10:08 PM »
Just changed the oil after 100 hours of motoring on our trip and noticed that oil is leaking past the dip stick at the top of the tube.  Watched it for a while and it is defiantly leaking.  So the question is the rubber plug of the dip stick suppose to prevent this and I need a new one that seals better or is my PVC mod for the crankcase vent causing too much back pressure?  I have the vent hose routed through an oil separator  then to the air intake assembly.  Just recently added the connection the the air filter assembly.  Engine runs smooth and starts easily in cold weather so I don't think I have too much blow by.  I don't have my compression test equipment with me. Was thinking of disconnecting the vent hose to see if this helps.
Paul

10
Main Message Board / Alternator upgrade and using Internal Regulator
« on: February 14, 2016, 08:59:17 PM »
Hi All,

I have recently been afforded the opportunity after working for a company for 18 years (layoff & severance) to take a 6 month cruse.  We plan to go from Texas to the Bahamas (1200 miles one way).  Anyway we are preparing the boat for the trip. 

Up until this time we were weekend sailors with the boat in the slip tied to shore power during the week.  We would take a one to two week cruse once a year which would involve only a night or two not on shore power.  The boat had the stock 55 AMP alt with a Spa Creek AutoMack and 2 6v golf cart batteries delivering 190AH.  This was fine for our weekend cursing pattern.   

Now with the extended cruse coming, we did an energy budget and found that 110 AH would be our average 24 hour load.  Most of this is the fridge in the tropics.  Not wanting to discharge the house bank deeper than 50% and have a margin of error we decided to add two more 6v batteries to double the house bank capacity to 380Ah.  We purchased 4 new batteries since the original 2 were 4.5 years young and did not want to mix old with new.   Also realizing that the original Motorola alt is approaching 28 years in age and I did not want to rely on a 28 year old alternator putting out near max amperage using the AutoMac for nearly every day for six months to replenish a 380AH house bank. So I was thinking that if I needed a spare then I should upgrade to a higher amperage alternator that would shorten my charge time on a larger bank and use the old as a backup spare.  Unfortunately, time or budget dose not allow us to add solar as Waterdog did for his cruse.  So it will be a new alt and a Yamaha 2K Genset to keep the batteries charged to at least 80%.

The new L-N was $225 with shipping, great piece of mind if you ask me. Also, I did not want to go to the expense of adding a Balmar or similar external regulator.  As Mainesail suggested, I think it is overkill for my use.  We plan to use the Intercoastal water way to get to Florida which could involve a lot of motoring.  Once we get to the Bahamas, we plan on using the techniques spelled out in "The Gentleman's Guide to Passages South: The Thornless Path to Windward" by  Mr. Bruce Van Sant and this may involve some amount of motor sailing too.

So the question is how do I wire in the new alternator, using its internal regulator and achieve the 14.4 volt sensed bulk charge stage that Mainesail mentions is possible with the internal regulator on the L-N.   I have been reading the "Electrical 101" topics but I did not find a great amount of detail on using the internal regulator.  Looks like most skippers chose the external regulator option.

Currently the alternator output is attached to the starter post which connects through the "C" post of the battery switch.  I plan to remove the wire between the AO and the starter post and add a #2 red wire from the AO to the house bank which has a 100A fuse currently.  Do I need to increase the fuse amperage?  I plan to add an additional #4 ground wire from the alt ground to the house bank.  I thought of adding an additional #4 ground wire from the alt to the engine ground point.  Is this necessary?  Now the tack will connect to one of the two AC taps on the alt. 

My concern is that I have missed any additional wiring requirements and how the voltage drop between the alt and the house bank will affect the bulk charge phase since the internal regulator is sensing the voltage at the alt and not the house bank.  Can I take the sensing leads of the internal regulator and extend them to the house bank terminals like external regulators do and achieve a proper bulk charge phase?  OR... I believe there is a POT on the back of the internal regulator on the L-N that sets it's absorption voltage LIMIT?  Can I merely calculate the voltage drop and set the POT to a higher voltage, say 14.6v to compensate for the voltage drop? I plan to keep the AutoMac physically installed in the boat but with the wiring not connected but laying in wait in case it is needed.

I will continue reading the "Electrical 101" pages, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Paul Shields

11
Main Message Board / Dielectric greas on electrical connections
« on: March 10, 2015, 06:51:53 PM »
Just had my st60+ mast head wind instrument repaired by Raymarine factory.  The wiring in the unit was corroded due to water collecting in the socket at the top of the mast where the arm of the instrument joins the cable.  Raymarine recommended cleaning the socket with alcohol and putting plumbers silicon on the threads of the compression nut that holds the wind instrument arm to the cable mount to keep water out of the connection.  I was thinking that applying dielectric grease to the pins of the arm where they fit into the cable socket at the top of the mast would prevent water from reaching the connection pins and prevent corrosion and shorting out the unit. 

Has anyone had a similar experience?

Mainsail is this a good idea? or is there a better method to protect the connection?

I installed this unit in 2009 after the original unit was damaged in hurricane Ike.  A little over a year ago it started working intermittently and eventually stopped working all together.  I took the unit down last month and sent it into Raymarine for repair.

12
Main Message Board / Life expectancy of a raw water pump
« on: March 05, 2014, 06:23:41 AM »
I have what I think is the original Oberdorfer 202M-15 raw water pump on my m25XP engine.  I replaced the shaft and lip seals 3 1/2 years ago and have replaced the impeller every season with one ordered from Depco.  We use the boat year round and a few weeks ago I noticed that the amount of water coming out the transom was not what it should be, so I ordered a replacement impeller.  I replaced the impeller and the flow rate did not improve.  I investigated further and found a stick loged in the thru hull removed it with a long screw driver after taking off the raw water hose.  Put it all back together and much to my suprise the water flow did not improve.  Took of the pump cover plate and polished it's surface and reinstalled.  Still very low water flow.  Took all the raw water hoses off and verified that they were clear.  Took off the heat exchanger end cap and rodded out the tub sheet with a coat hanger.  Still low water flow.  I even ran the engine with the end cap off the heat exchanger to observer the output of just the pump and low water flow.  Thinking that I had toasted the new impeller, I purchased another and installed it.  Still very low water flow.  So I am thinking that the pump body is so worn that I am not getting a good seal on the back face of the impeller.  Is there any way to recondition these surfaces or am I destin to purchase a new pump?  What is the useful fife of these pumps? 3000 hours?

13
Main Message Board / Replacing Groco head with Raritan PHII or PH LBA
« on: February 20, 2014, 01:56:37 PM »
Well the Groco has finaly outlived it's usefulnes, two master rebuild kits in 5 years and it now needs another.  So I think it is time to replace it.  I have been price shopping for the Raritan PHII and the PH LBA and I found the PH LBA at sailboatowners.com for $314 and the PHII at boatersisland for $316.  Sounds like a nobrainer to me, but was supprised that the bowl is only worth $2?  The last time I looked for the LBA I found it to be in the ~$260 range.  Has anyone seen the LBA for cheaper?

14
Main Message Board / Search Broken?
« on: May 27, 2013, 04:52:07 PM »

All,

I have been trying to use the search engine to find threads on the Adler-Barbour cold machine.  Mine quit cooling this week and I want to search but I get this error on any search I rey:
2: pspell_new()[<a href="function pspell-new'>function pspell-new[/url]: PSPELL couldn't open the dictionary. reason: no word lists can be found for the language "en".
File: /home/c34org5/public_html/bbs/Source/search php
Line: 700

Any one else having problems using the site search engine?

Paul

15
Main Message Board / Anyone looking for a C34 Project boat?
« on: April 22, 2013, 08:48:58 AM »
All,

There is a hurrican Sandy damaged 1988 C34 "Loka" up for auction in Atlantic Highlands, NJ.  Anyone looking for a project boat?  The current bid price is $10,900. Here is the link  http://www.yachtworld.com/core/listing/pl_boat_detail.jsp?slim=broker&boat_id=2560279&checked_boats=2560279&hosturl=certifiedsales&&ywo=certifiedsales&&ybw=&units=Feet&access=Public&listing_id=13304&url=

Paul

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