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While having our new refrigeration unit installed we discovered that the connection between the galley sink drain and the thru hull was very loose and leaking.  It appeared that the threaded section had been over tightened and stripped.  Whether by the factory or a previous owner we have no way of knowing.  However it came out in our hand without much effort.  With the thru hull open this could have sunk the boat had it come off.  I would advise that everybody check this connection below your galley sink.

I've been through the tech wiki and done a search under m25xp max cruising rpm  I am curious about what rpm you cruise at to get the best speed under power.  The engine manual says to run up the engine to 3000 rpm when getting the air out of the anti-freeze and I do this with success.  However the previous owner said not to cruise at more than 2600 rpm.  In most seas we don't get over 5.7 to 6 kts with our three bladed prop at 2600 rpm.  With seas of 2-3 feet on the bow we are lucky to maintain 4 kts.  The engine manual is moot on the point.  In other posts I see that many of you do over 6 kts consistently.  What kind of rpm do you cruise and what is the max rpm I should consider for being under power?

Does anybody have a "reasonably" priced source for custom memory foam mattress toppers for the v-berth.  We've switched to camping in the v-berth and our WalMart queen size that works great in the aft doesn't work well in the bow.  I've thought about getting another one from Walmart and then using the two and splitting them, but then you got the seam in the middle.

About half of the screws in the instrument panel and cover are loose and don't grip well.  What's the best solution?  I can't find it in the knowledge base.  When I put in "loose screws" for the search criteria I get the membership list. :)

If you are looking for really cheap and effective chafing gear for your dock lines get some of those foam swim noodles.  They have a hole down the middle that you thread your line through.  Use a knife to easily cut them to whatever length you need.  They come in many colors, so the admiral delights in being able to color coordinate them.  I could give a crap about the color.

We have had two occasions now where wasps have decided to nest in the engine air intake ports in the top of the stern.  I have blasted them with wasp killer and it seems to solve the problem although I am not sure how the killer reacts with the hoses in the intake.  Has anybody had this problem?  How have you dealt with it?  Is there some kind of barrier you can use that will keep the critters out?

I am replacing all of my original fuel lines.  Not too bad a job just a lot of twists and turns.  My old hoses are the original so they are in dire need of replacement.  I have a Racor filter in addition to the primary engine filter.  When removing the old hoses I noticed that the Racor is positioned between the fuel pump and the primary fitler, not between the tank and the pump.  The Racor and pump are mounted below the head sink on the partition that separates the engine compartment and head.  The Racor is mounted about a foot below the pump.  It does not seem logical to me that the Racor should be placed in line after the pump.  Wouldn't it make more sense to position it between the tank and the pump?  (In other words, run the tank line to the Racor and the Racor out line to the pump.) Maybe they did it this way because the Racor is lower than the pump and pump doesn't have the lift capability??  Anyway, I intend the change the arrangement so that the Racor is in line before the pump unless somebody knows something I don't.  Your thoughts appreciated.
Mark Mueller
HULL 815  1988

After reading posts about the cracks in the plastic fuel caps I decided to replace mine after haul-out later this week.  thought it would make a good winter project.  Unfortunately when we went to top off the tanks a 1/4" piece came out of the bottom of the cap (I hope it just happened!).  I covered the old cap with a couple layers of duct tape and ordered a new plastic replacement for a temporary fix.  I want to replace the thing with a stainless unit.  In one of the posts somebody recommended getting a 1 1/2" stainless unit.  Is there a particular brand or size that fits well and is easy to install?
Mark Mueller

A month or so ago a 64 year old sailor was lost off of Port Clinton, Ohio on Lake Erie.  This past Sunday I had the opportunity to talk with one of his friends from the marina who had just taken his widow out on his boat to spread the husband's ashes on the lake.  He was out on the lake in 40 kt winds with his wife and son.  The son had never been sailing.  The jib sheet went over the side an got wrapped around the shaft.  The boat was moving better than 5 kts.  The captain climbed down the stern ladder without a life jacket or lifeline to  try and free the line.  He was swept away and not seen again until his body was recovered a few days later.  One lesson here is that you can always cut the sheet lines, get the sails down and throw out the hook.  Then call the tow service that comes cheap from Boat US.  This was not a life or death situation where they were alone far from shore without any option but to go over the side to free the line. A real tragedy.
Mark Mueller

When I replaced my hump hose a month or so ago, the riser swiveles in the flange where it enters the manifold.  There was some discussion of this on the message board.  Tjhis weekend I decided to remove the flange from the maniforld in order to tighten the riser in the flange.  I cannot get the bottom nut loose from the threaded stud  The top two are hex head bolts.  I followed the advice from the discussion and myself and a dock neighbor could not get the bolt loose.  We have soaked it with penetrating oil and heated the engine.  Another fellow who used to restore antique cars said that to soak the nut with penetrant whenever I am at the boat, run the engine and soak it again as it cools.  He saiys that it eventually will free it, but might take 3-5 weeks to do so.  Is it safe to operate the engine with a little exhaust bleeding around the riser at the flange?  It seeems to be putting out a minimum of soot and is a little noisier than usual, but other than that seems to be fine.  If nobody is down below when we run the engine, the problem with CO should be minimal.  I am sure it has been like this for a while.  Also, any other suggestions on how to get the nut off the stud would be appreciated.  I don't like the thought of just a few more weeks in the season and not being able to use the boat.
Mark Mueller

After 5 years with this boat and 6 years with previous boats we have decided that enough is enough and are going to put A/C in Blue Moon before next summer.  I have read the posts on different installation set-ups but have not seen any comments on the brands selected.  It seems the most popular are the Mermaid and Vector Compact with one or two Cruise Air brands also.  What is your experience with the various makes?  Also, who seems to have the best price in your experience?
Mark Mueller

This is something we probably won't have happen on Lake Erie.  I checked Chapman's and they don't cover this situation.
Mark Muellerhttp://latimesblogs.latimes.com/outposts/2010/07/sailboat-crushed-by-breaching-whale.html?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+Outposts+%28Outposts%29

I just installed the new hump hose last week and have a question that has been eating at me.  The exhaust pipe that comes out of the manifold and goes through the wall under the head sink to the hump hose (the one wrapped in white stuff) pivoted at the back of the engine.  It is supposed to do this isn't it?
Mark Mueller

I replaced my engine zinc last weekend, after doing all the stuff I mentioned in earlier posts.  Some of you talk about having to cut the zincs to a proper length.    My parts kit included a Westerbeke zinc that was the proper length and did not require cutting.  The Westerbeke part number is 11885.
Mark Mueller

The rubber padding that was on my hx was completely rotten and melted.  A friend suggested I go to the local conveyor supply outlet where theymake custom conveyor belts.  I was able to get a scrap of heavy rubber conveyor belt around 1/2" thick that is flexible and will endure the heat of the hx.  Cost $2.00! If you have a similar predicament this might be a good option for you.
Mark Mueller

I have pulled my hx, had it boiled at the local radiator shop and ordered the new Semdure gaskets and rubber washers that I found through searching old posts on this site.  The new gaskets are a solid tan color and aren't in the four sections with the clear inserts of the old ones.  I assume this is what I am supposed to have.  Seems to me that a gasket is a gasket is a gasket, right?  Also, does the washer go on the bolt (against the inside of the end cap) or after the gasket.  Seems like the washer should go on the bolt first after the end cap.  My old ones came off in pieces so I don't know for sure how they are supposed to go back on.  If you have never done this, I recommend it.  I am sure that mine has not been apart in the 22 years of the boat.  Found a broken zinc and two impeller blades in the hx.  There was so much calcium and lime build up that the new zinc would not go in until I had it boiled.
Mark Mueller

While replacing my water heater on Friday June 11 I decided to replace the engine zinc after I did the water heater.  (The water heater was easy after I got the hoses mentioned in a previous post.)  However, the zinc is screwed in tight and I can not loosen it without using a lot of force.  Since we were leaving on a one week cruise the following day I decided to not mess with it further.  Question:  How much force is safe to put on that zinc considering where it is attached?  I don't want to strong arm it and regret it.  Makes me wonder if the previoius owners never replaced the zinc.  Since the thing is located on the bottom I don't see how I would get penetrating oil to it.
Mark Mueller

I just put all of my mast wiring to a terminal strip.  Everything is neat and easy to get at when necessary.  I am wondering about whether or not anybody has any neat solutions as to how to mount this in the area forward of the mast under the floor on a MKI?  it needs to be high enough so that it is not in the bilge, but still below the floor.  There is space between the floor and hull, but I don't want to drill more holes if I don't have to.  I am thinking of making some kind of thing that will span the bilge and rest on the port and starboard flat spaces on the hull under the floor.  I am sure somebody has a more brilliant notion than this.
Mark Mueller

I am replacing my water heater this weekend and will also replace the hoses that go from the heater under the deck to the engine.  I still have the two hoses that are painted like the engine that come off the front and rear of the antifreeze tank.  They have something like a cloth wrap on them.  I want to replace them while at it as they are probably older than dirt.   After about an hour of searching the database I don't see a specific reference to them and I wonder if I can get replacement hoses from the same source as the other hoses or do I need to get these from Kubota.  I understand the 25 xp is a Kubota d950 and have a good Kubota dealer here in town.  I guess the question is are these some kind of standard thing or special to the engine?  By the way, I removed the access panel door and frame under the sink on Monday and used the drywall screw technique to remove the plugs.  it worked as advertised.
Mark Mueller

I am getting ready to replace my hot water heater with a new Seaward 6 gal.  In ready other threads I see that most just slip the old out through the side panel after removing the frame.  My frame has the teak plugs that need to be removed.  I have researched previous posts that say to use a dry wall screw and socket to back out the plugs.  Does this work well?  I did not see where anybody had actually tried this method.
Mark Mueller

My bimini frame has a stripped set screw head, the part the allen wrench fits into.  What is the best way to remove it.  I am thinking about using some 5 minute epoxy on the end of the wrench and hoping that after it sets-up I will be able to remove the screw. Any other ideas?
Mark Mueller

Got the new Mainsheet and enjoyed the Boat Numbers insert by Ken.  I am going to cut it out so when people ask why the boat will "only" due 7.3 k I can answer without sounding like an idiot.  There is a lot of great information there.  Thanks Ken
Mark Mueller

I have read the discussions on the need to use aluminum shaft and engine anodes in fresh water.  I also understand you should not mix the types of anodes on the boat.  Great discussion.  How do you tell if you have zinc or aluminum anodes?  Both are silver.  I was going to change my engine anode this weekend, but now don't know what to do since she is in the water and I have no clue what is on the shaft. I have engine anodes in the parts supply from the PO but they aren't labeled as to material. I'm thinking I should just replace the engine anode with what I have and worry about changing both when she comes out of the water this fall.
Mark Mueller

Yesterday I had the great pleasure of meeting fellow member Phil Spicer.  He contacted me after my posting about replacing my masthead sheaves and volunteered to help me with the project.  We meet at my boat and got the job done in no time.  The best part was going to lunch and learning that he had attended college here in Findlay, OH and I found out we know several people in common.  I think I have made a new friend with a fellow sailor.  Thanks Phil for the help.  I look forward to helping you one day.  (By the way Phil told me he also owns a '63 Corvette.  Some guys have all the toys.)
Mark Mueller

Last year i reset my stanchions and one of my chain plates.  I drilled them out oversized and then filled them with epoxy.  Everybody says to use duct tape to cover the backs of holes so that the epoxy stays put.  We had some issues with the stuff migrating out of the edge of the tape. Tried a couple of different brands with the same result.  I read recently, I think in a Boat US publication, that said to use modeling clay for the purpose.  Has anybody tried that and, if so, what were the results.
Mark Mueller

I seem to recall a previous thread on steaming light replacement, but can't locate it. Anyway, I pulled the mast this year so I could have the hull blisters and stress cracks repaired and barrier coated.  I am also replacing the masthead sheaves and forward halyards. The steaming light is in bad shape and needs replacing.  While I am at it I would like to add LED bulbs.  To make things simple I would just like to replace the light with the same make and model.  Do I call Catalina to find out the make and model?   Do they make LED bulbs for these?  Also, is there supposed to be a lens and light in the bottom of the fixture that lights the deck?  If so, mine is completely missing.  Along the same lines should I replace the wiring while I am doing all of this other stuff?

I went up to inspect the hull work today and after it is painted it will look like a new boat.  My mast, well it is sitting behind a 3' pile of snow.
Mark Mueller

Don't know if anybody noticed but our own Ken Juul has a letter in the new Sail Magazine on fuel line screens.
Mark Mueller

I was talking to Guido at Garhauer today about getting replacement sheaves for my halyards.  He said that he thought the sheaves were the same as for the C-36 but was not sure.  I have checked the wikis and other posts and can't find that information where the subject is discussed.  He said if not that he needs to know the outside diameter, thickness and inside diameter of the the center hole.  Does anybody know if they are the same as the 36 or what the measurements are?  My boat is 50 miles away and lots of snow.  Blue Moon is a 1988 #815.
Mark Mueller

We've owned Blue Moon four years now.  Just finished putting her up for the winter.  This year we had the mast removed in order to have some other work done.  This is the first we have had the mast off since owning the boat.  When I went to disconnect the wires at the base of the mast I discovered that the previous owner had wrapped all of the connections in about 2 miles of electrical tape. (ok, maybe it was just one)  The connections for the lights were just made with crimp fittings.  This meant i had to cut the wires, not something I wanted to do.  Are there plugs that can be installed on these wires that are water proof and will allow the connections to come apart without cutting wires?  What are they called, what do they look like and where can I find them?

Also, the coax fittings seemed to have some corrosion on them.  Since you can't get inside them with bronze wool how do you clean them?  I was wondering if CLR or Lime Away might work for the purpose.  Any thoughts?
Mark Mueller

We have had a two day blow here in Ohio with gusts to 43kts. out of the west and SW.  Our marina in West Harbor on Catawba in the Western Basin of Lake Erie normally has 8 or more feet of water.  Last night we had less than three and Blue Moon was sitting in the mud as the wind has blown most of the water out of West Harbor.  A friend sent a picture on my cell phone but can't figure out how to get onto this post or I would sent it.  Boat appears to be fine and with the wind down today I am hoping water flows back in for the weekend.  Thank heaven for floating docks.
Mark Mueller

Our C34 neighbors were volunteering at the Cedar Point Boat Show this weekend and said that the Catalina rep told them that Catalina is still producing C34's on a by order basis.  He told them that Catalina still has the molds and due to the popularity of the boat that they are still building them on an as ordered basis.  However he said that the C36 is completely kaput for any new production.
Mark Mueller

I am going to have the bottom of Blue Moon stripped this winter, repair some blisters and barrier coat the hull.  It sounds like all of this is more pain in the a@# than difficult.  I intend to do the barrier coat myself.  It seems that the two most mentioned are the Interprotect 2000E and the Petit Protect 4700/4701.  In reading the labels I get the impression they both claim to do the job.  What is your experience with the two products?  Is one easier to use?  Does one build to the correct thickness in fewer coats?  Does one work better with VC17 bottom paint than the other?
Mark Mueller

In reading the latest post on the fuel gauge I am wondering if this might be related to an issue with starting my engine.  Here is what typically occurs.  The engine starts just fine when leaving the dock.  After we set the sails and turn off the engine I switch the battery to the house bank from the single starting battery a deep cycle battery as well.  When we are ready to start the engine, I set the battery switch to the starting battery.  Then sometimes, but not always, there is not enough juice to turn over the engine and start it.  (The last time we motored for 40 minutes because the wind was on our nose.  After we sailed  on a beam reach for about 45 minutes the engine would not start. (Does not seem to be related to time, I have had the problem after 45 minutes as well as 5 hours.) You would think it had plenty of charge.) In those instances I set the switch to all and the engine starts.  I replaced the starting battery a month ago, so I don''t think that is the problem.  My engine has never not started. My charger is a Xantrex Tru Charge 40.  When in port the switch is set to 2 (the house bank).  My fuel gauge has not worked for some time and am just monitoring the fuel level using the hour meter.  So much for what I know.  Here are my questions: 1.  Does the ground wires on the instrument panel that are linked together as described in the fuel gauge post also affect the starter button? 2.  Has anybody experienced this problem and how did you fix it?3. If I have the battery switch in the 2 position (house bank) does that also charge the starter battery?  I have little knowledge or experience with electrical problems, so I am not sure I am even asking the right questions.
Mark Mueller

My son and I rebedded all eight of the stanchions on Blue Moon a week ago.  The project went well, but here are a couple of lessons we learned.
First, the directions for doing this i previous postings are fantastic.  Follow them.
Second, when drilling out the holes larger so you can fill them with resin, drill them two sizes larger rather than one.  We did one and it worked out, but if you do two sizes you will leave yourself more room for error.  The Dremel tool is fantastic for hollowing the wood core between the top and bottom layers.
Third, you will have some resin leak through no matter how well you tape underneath the holes.  Some say it is not necessary to add the thickener to the resin.  You definitely want to make it fairly thick to preclude the thin resin from getting out of the tape.  We had two holes that leaked no matter what we tried until we thickened the resin.
Fourth do all eight stanchions at once.  Some do it one at a time as they get the time.  Frankly, I think that by the time you get set-up and get everything organized you are better off doing it over two days and doing all eight.  The entire project took less than eight hours of actual work, but you have to let the resin cure.  The curing takes the longest.
Five swearing profusely as you try to get your big hands into tight spaces and between wire runs will have no impact on the amount of time the project takes to complete.  However, it does make you feel better.

Last Thursday we had a storm with 70 mph winds and heavy rain.  Some boats were damaged and a gas dock at one marina was ripped away. No leaks at the stanchions so I guess we passed the test.
Mark Mueller

I need to rebed my stanchions.  I have read all of the information after searching the subject so I am pretty confident about how to do it.  One thing I did not find in the information was the best way to remove the vinyl and wood trim that covers the the stanchions from the inside in the v-berth.  Is it best to remove the vinyl panel first or the wood trim?  I know it is a silly question, but I figure it is best to ask somebody who has probably done it.
Mark Mueller

We are still evaluating GPS chartplotters and have decided that we like the Garmin line.  I see where some of you have the 500 series and would like to know your opinion on the screen size, ability to view the screen in bright sun with polarized sun glasses and ease of operation.  We have also been looking at the new Garmin 640.  A bit pricey, but wow is it nice.  All touch screen operation and also the ability for dual use in the car.  Much larger screen and higher resolution as well. Anybody used or have the 640 and what is your opinion?
Mark Mueller

I need to make a minor repair to my bow just below the water line.  I think I will use Marine Tex to make the repair.  I have two questions. First Marine Tex works great under water I am told, but do I need to coat it with gelcoat since i am just going to paint it with bottom paint?  Second, how does the Marine Tex work in 50 to 60 degree weather.  Does it need to be 70 or 80 degrees for it to cure properly?  I know zero about working with glass and epoxy.
Mark Mueller
Blue Moon #815
1988

My manual bilge pump needs to have all of the rubber parts replaced.  I have looked through past postings that indicate the model from Whale is the Titan on Mk I boats.  I see the mfg. website has the rebuild kits but want to make sure that all of the 1988 boats had the Titan.  I have looked all over the pump and it does not have a model on it.
Mark Mueller
Blue Moon #815
1988

Our dues to the assoication once again paid for themselves!!.  :clapWe got a very nice discount on the Boat US Membership because of the C34 Association.  The unlimited towing package went from $115.00 to $34.00.  That's a whole lot more savings than I am getting from the Stimulus Package!
Mark Mueller
Blue Moon #815
1988

In September we were sailing on Lake Erie and were buzzed by a helicopter with a sign that said "Boat Pix".  I did not give it much thought until I received a letter Monday saying that we could purchase pictures of our boat taken from the helicopter.  All we have to do is tell them to send the the pictures, keep and pay for what we like and return the rest.  Does anybody have any experience with BoatPix.com?  They don't say how much the pictures are, so I can't really say what I am getting for the effort.  Their website says they have been in business for 25 years.
Mark Mueller
Blue Moon #815

Those of us who are weekend sailors get to our closed-up, stale smelling boats on Friday evening or Saturday morning. I am wondering if the ionic style of air filters can work to keep the air in the boat a little bit fresher.  Has anyone used one of the portable models on their boat?  This more a concern of my spouse since I think the boat airs out pretty quickly.  But hey, we captains have to keep our admirals happy!
Mark Mueller
Hull 815
Blue Moon

In projects Ron Hill (6/11/05) has pictures of his summer and winter covers.  He indicated that this was covered someplace in the projects section.  However, I can't find it.  I am researching winter covers.  Can anybody point me in the right direction.  The thought of paying 3 or 4 thousand bucks for a winter cover sends a chill up my spine.
Mark Mueller
#815