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Topics - Stewartn

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Catalina 34s for Sale / Desiree, C 34 MKll, #1472. built 2000, For Sale
« on: February 20, 2018, 05:56:01 AM »
It's time. The beloved Desiree is up on the hard and has been listed for sale. She's in very very good shape, yard maintained and lovingly cared for these last 9 years. Foe a look see, go to and scroll to Yachts for Sale. All info is there, or feel free to email,
Thx to all
Stewart Napoleon
Desiree, C 34, #1472

Main Message Board / C34, Mk ll, #1472 for sale
« on: September 25, 2017, 06:47:43 AM »
The beloved Desiree is up for a new home. Built 2000, #1472 Mark ll. Located N'wlk, CT. If any interest, please call Peter Thorsby, Prestige Yacht Sales, (203) 353-0373.
Thx all
Stewart Napoleon
Greenwich, CT

Main Message Board / Hatch gaskets or seals or tape installation
« on: July 19, 2017, 08:27:49 AM »
Stupid question: Anyone install or replace hatch seals on the cockpit hatches on a MKll '34. #1472 appears to have no seals at all. No significant water intrusion, but rattles, etc. Would like to add rubber gasket or foam tape. Better to install on hatch lid than bottom rim. Question is how do you keep the tape on rim with sticky side up, so sticky side adheres to lid when you close. Thanks all.
Stewart Napoleon
Desiree, C34, #1472
Old Greenwich YC
Greenwich, CT

Main Message Board / Oil Breather Hose, Connections
« on: August 30, 2016, 12:03:05 PM »
The oil breather hose on my MK II, #1472, with a 35B Universal connects to the top of the engine (valve cover?) The fitting points down and to right forward (as you look at it). The original hose, 1999, could use replacement. But, this hose has a built in "U turn" so it leads
back to the air cleaner. Tried auto parts stores, no luck. Anyone replace this or reinvent the "U turn " connection. I am sure bending any normal hose this way will crimp it and restrict the flow. Any suggestions appreciated.
Stewart Napoleo
Desiree, C34, MkII, #1472
Old Greenwich YC. Greenwich, CT

Main Message Board / Leaking Coolant Reervior, 2000 '34 MK ll
« on: July 31, 2016, 08:26:58 AM »
There is a persistent seepage from the bottom of the coolant reservoir. I tightened the hose clamp, ran the engine up operating temp and could see no leak on the bottom seam of the plastic container, However, the area around the barb and the hose clamp feels wet with antifreeze to the touch. This is not a big leak. It just seems to seep. I have put oil absorbent mats below the reservior, but would like to fix the problem. All suggestions welcome. Thx guys.
Stewart Napoleon
Desiree, MK II '34
Old Greenwich Yacht Club
Greenwich, CT

Main Message Board / Oil "breather" hose to Air intake
« on: March 28, 2016, 08:06:36 AM »
Catalina 34 MK ll, # 1472, Yr built 2000, Engine Universal 35B.
There is a hose coming from the top of the valve cover on the engine that ends by simply tucked under the foam cover on the air filter. I understand why, but it is a really bad solution to Positive Crankcase Ventilation. Those fumes stink up the engine space and more. On later Universal models there is a fitting on the engine air intake throat that accepts and firmly attaches the hose and captures the fumes.
So anyone retrofit ? Doesn't seem like rocket science, but I'd like some reassurance and advice of parts used, etc. Any help is appreciated.
Stewart Napoleon
Desiree, C34, #1472

Main Message Board / Drippless
« on: April 25, 2015, 07:47:55 AM »
Catalina #1472, '34 MK II, built o/a 2000.
I am curious as to what other members did with the maintenance and/or replacement of the Drippless fitting. This one has worked flawlessly since I purchased the boat in 2008. It is soft, pliable to the touch, has plenty of tension, does not leak, etc. Boatyard says "don't make waves". But, I see all those ads, etc. about 10 yr replacement. BTW, I called PYY Dripless and asked. Said if it doesn't leak and has tension, no stiffening of the rubber - Go with it. What say other owners? Thanks.
Stewart Napoleon
Old Greenwich Yacht Club
Greenwich, CT

Main Message Board / Black Sludge in fresh water tank
« on: October 26, 2014, 03:58:24 PM »
Tried to pump out rear fresh water tank for seasonal decommissioning. No flow. Pump running, but no water at any outlet. Checked the fresh water pump filter on top of the ShurFlo. Never saw such gook before. Black Brown soft sludge or algae. Cleaned and replaced the little filter 5 times. Each time it clogged with the nasty. Finally let the tank run out into the bilge, by passing the pump and filter. Worked long enough to get the pink stuff into tank and piping. Now, any suggestions on how to clean tank free of sludge before Spring. There's no access port on that tank. I think Peggy Hall may have written on this, but I cannot find the article and she is now retired. Appreciate any suggestions or remedies. Thanks all.
Stewart Napoleon
Desiree, Catalina 34 mkll, #1472
Old Greenwich YC
Greenwich, CT

Main Message Board / Turnbuckles, OEM, Hull # 1472, 34 Mk II
« on: June 10, 2014, 06:28:08 AM »
Just had the mast unstepped and stepped for some maintenance at the top. Rigger reported that 2 turnbuckes were FROZEN on the bottom threaded studs. Never happen, not on my boat. So I went to look at the turnbuckles. I never saw this before. Looks like a solid bronze rod threaded each end with a slash in the center. Can't find anything that even looks like, smells like or quacks like in any catalogue. Any body know anything about these? I am sure they were OEM equipment. Thanks all.
BTW: I replaced the 2 frozen with open turnbuckles and replace the rest ASAP.
Stewart Napoleon
Desiree, OGYC

Main Message Board / Sherwood Redux
« on: October 19, 2012, 05:22:55 AM »
To those of you who have a 35B with the OEM Sherwood raw water pump. Put Desiree up for the winter yesterday and noticed some rust stains on the engine mat. Traced up the front of the engine and, sure enough, the raw water pump is weeping. Now, this is the third, 3rd, pump since 2009. It failed my second season with the boat in 2009 and was replaced with OEM new. That pump started to weep in 2011 and was replaced, new again, with about 100+ hrs on it. That brand new, OEM, replacement is weeping as of yesterday with much less than 100 hrs. Pumps were installed by competent mareine diesel mechanics. Impellers have been changed at once a season in the Spring. Other than this, Desiree motors like a clock. There no other problems. This is a PIA. I've a got new replacement to use, but what is wrong. I think this is a symptom and I would like to get at the cause. Pump shaft alignment, bad pumps, bad seals: any ideas for me to persue gratefully appreciated. Thx all.

Main Message Board / Stinky water
« on: August 07, 2012, 08:49:53 AM »
Switched fresh water tanks yesterday from Forward to Aft. New water from aft tank was "smelly" . Ran water for a few minutes and it seemed to to improve, but still there. Looks a might cloudy to me. Both f'wd and aft tanks were shocked w/clorox, added clorox and filled from the same source at launch time. No problem w/f'wd tank. I'm going to shock the aft tank with a cup of clorox, let stand 24 hrs, run it thru pipes, etc., empty and then refill with fresh water from the dock. Any ideas suggestions appreciated. Thx all.

Main Message Board / Battery Discharge from Battery Monitors
« on: June 08, 2012, 05:32:11 AM »
Have Xantrex Link Lite meter wired to 2 4D batteries (as house) which is wired to a Hart Interface to keep the dedicated starting battery fully charged, without draining the house. All works as it should. No problems. But, when all swithces are OFF, meter still shows .1 amp draw. From 5/19 till 6/7 meter showed 100% full to 93%. Is it possible that the meter itself and the interface uses this current? Only other hot wired battery connection is Fcty instyalled wiring for bilge pump. To my knowledge, ther bilge pump never cycles on auto. Boat is dry. I am at a mooring, so the minimal drain bothers me. I don't have a ready way to re-charge. Any info is helpful. Thx. BTW, these are brand new 4 D's.

Main Message Board / Garhauer EZ Glide Jib Blocks
« on: May 28, 2012, 06:38:41 AM »
In my efforts to look really good at the mooring and talk the talk, I installed the above yesterday. Now, before I have to walk the walk, someone please bail me out. I understand how the the multi part tackle will move the car forward under load. But, what if you want the the car to move aft? There is no postive stop for aft. Does the tension on the jib sheet effectively move the car aft dependinding on the size of the jib? I did install shock cord. Any help is greatly appreciated to avoid being talked about at cocktail hour. Thanks.

Main Message Board / Retro fitting Raymarine wheel pilot.
« on: May 11, 2012, 06:11:48 AM »
OK, I've got a new leather covered 5 spoke Edson wheel (given to me) and the original Raymarine Mark I (black) wheel pilot doesn't fit the tapered or 5 spoke design of the new wheel. So, naturally I buy a Mark II wheel pilot (the new grey one, $548). Drill 4 holes and put in 6 screws, right? New wheel pilot is bigger than original. Torque restraint in wrong place. Repalce with new one, but engine instrument pod is in the way. Can't move pod down. Get torque restraint in place, finally. Install new wheel with new pilot. Wheel drive cutch does not clear the instrument pod below. Re-install wheel/pilot with motor tube at top which may or may not affect the compass. Boat now goes fine in reverse and to the right. Never ever believe anything about a simple retro fit. Anyone want to buy a 40" Edson wheel with working Mark I wheel pilot installed? Exhausted in Connecticut.

Main Message Board / Solar Panels for C34
« on: April 17, 2012, 06:47:24 AM »
Made a passage on a Tartan 41 and the owner had installed solar panel(s) on the sea hood, just forward of the traveler. It was a great place, since no one ever walked there. C34, # 1472, has exactly the same space (although meas. are probably smaller). Any ideas about installing there on the deck? We're at a mooring and it is important, since I can't constantly hook up and charge with AC. All thoughts welcome. Thx/Rgds.

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