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Topics - pjcomeau

#1
I just repowered my 1988 C34 with a Beta Marine 25. Question for others that repowered with same engine: what do you have as a prop? Make and size?

Others: Anyone with a Gori 3 blade prop? What size and what engine do you have?

I still have the original 15x9 3 blade and very under propped right now. 5.5 knots at 3000. WOT goes to 3800 (engine is 25HP at 3600) and get 6.5 knots. I also have the TMC 40 transmission gear ratio 2.6.

Thanks
#2
Main Message Board / Repowering options for mark 1's
September 04, 2020, 07:45:37 AM
So, I haven't found any recent posts on repowering. What engines have been used? I see some successes with beta 25, any others?
Thanks !
#3
Main Message Board / Engine woes
June 21, 2018, 08:11:46 AM
Over the winter I had my M25XP refurbished (including having the injection pump refurbished) and now after installation we have a couple problem not easily being resolved

1) We keep having to bleed at the first injector. Run engine for a while, then stop let it sit for a while (e.g. overnight), then try again and same problem. bleed at first injector (with it unscrewed, turn engine over a few time, tighten back up and then starts/runs ok). Have done this a few time. Cannot figure out where air coming from. Once running, in neutral, the engine runs smooth, can rev up (kept it under 3200), no smoking, good water flow.

2) After sorting out (temporarily) problem 1, I put into gear and I cannot get above 1700 RPM (may not be exact, but not moving much over 3knots).  Also, there is no smoke.
So I'm assuming fuel problem. From all the threads I've seen here, I know I don't have a screen on the pickup tube, I have the traditional 2 micron twist on Racor filter (replaced during re-installation of engine), the traditional facet lift pump. I could go ahead and replace everything from tank to filter on engine, but with my luck this would not solve my problem and more money spent and still not a properly working engine. Any tips on how to determine problem. I saw that there was a trial by Stu running without lift pump, but with it running (I get slow click when bleeder knob closed and faster clicks when knob open) are there known problems (I will confirm filter inside it, but was not long ago I had it replaced and was clean even when i replace it). As for the Racor filter are there known problems (other then being clogged) that could cause problems. Any tips on determining where restriction may be happening (or even a way to determine if there is a restriction problem in the first place)?

Could the two problems be related.

#4
Main Message Board / HARKEN MKIV UNIT 1 FURLING
May 02, 2015, 09:49:49 AM
Has anyone replace their furling unit with a HARKEN MKIV UNIT 1 FURLING?

I have a tall rig and wanted to confirm the following:

Forstay wire is 5/16" (So unit 1 is ok).

Now my clevis pin to connect my current furling unit to tab/deck is 5/8" (others the same?). The fact it's 5/8" versus 1/2" makes the toggle component much more expensive.

Thanks.
#5
Main Message Board / M-25xp loosing power.
August 06, 2014, 09:45:32 AM

I've posted this problem before but still not solved.

Consistantly whenever I have a few hours of motoring ahead of me I get the following:

1) If I leave berth fairly soon after starting engine I can throttle to the max rpm of about 2800 (was more like 2500/2600 prior to new injectors put in 2 weeks ago) and getting to around 6.6/6.7 knots. From What I've been reading here that's more like cruising numbers rather then full throttle (I can actually throttle back a little without change/loss of power).
2) after about 10 minutes I feel/hear the engine "slowing" down (throttle same place at full) and the tach shows about 200/300 loss of RPM and speed goes down accordingly.
3) over the next 15-30 minutes (not fully timed) I feel/hear the engine "slowing" down in spurts of around 200 rpm until it settles around 2000/2100 rpm and around 5 knots or less.
4) It will then stay at this rpm for as long as I run (never really mototored more then 3 hours continously). At this RPM I'm running pretty smooth but I'm at least a knot and a half slower and when there is no wind (or on the nose) and when with a group of boats I'm usually 20 to 30 minutes behind on trips of 2.5 to 3 hours).
5) I also notice that when warm, that when I completely throttle back it vibrates/run alot harder then when cold (still runs pretty rough too). The RPM are a little lower when warm too, a little below 1000.

6) Note that when not in gear I can throttle up to above 3200.

Last summer I purchased/installed from a fellow C34 owner his original 3 blade prop (15" x 9 pitch) so should not be over propped.
As mentioned I just replaced injectors (new from Kubota dealer) which helped with getting more speed during first 10/15 minutes).
At same time I had the Racor filter replaced. Last summer had the Racor and primary fual filter replaced.

I can only seem to get a mechanic to do specific tasks (e.g. replace injectors), but not get one to actually try to determine problem/troubleshoot (they are busy and prioritize total failure).

There is some smoking so I can probably use some other work (mechanic suggested starting with valves). I'm totaly ignorant when it comes to engines.

The consistency in the symtoms in the amount of time or maybe temperature (definitely not at max temp 0f 160 when it starts to slow down, more like around 120) made me think that someone else might have encountered something similar.

I've read through various discussions (here and on other sites where M-25xp is used) and a couple of threads mentioned things that should never need work or be done, but in their case was the fix. One mentions injection pump and a couple mention breaking seal/cover and adjusting governor. How does one determine bad injection pump?

It runs pretty smooth for those first few minutes and the speed is pretty good, so I'd be so happy if I could keep that speed for the whole trip :)


Thanks,

Pierre


#6
Main Message Board / Air bleeding knob broke
July 16, 2012, 06:18:38 AM
After doing some work on fuel line/filters. The bleeding knob was tightened too much and when I went to loosen it the knob brok off. I had to use vice grips to finish the bleeding process. I have the engine back to working like before work, but I need to replace this knob.

Where can I get one of these? Would a Kobota dealer have this part or only someone dealing in universal engines?

Oh, what is the proper name of this part?

Thanks,

Pierre
#7
Main Message Board / Low RPM in gear
July 04, 2012, 10:41:34 AM
I've done too many changes at a time since I first bought my boat and I don't have a good baseline.

Last year my Kiwi prop failed and caused major vibration, prior year I had to replace my transmission (now have a Hurth 100 or new equivalent).

Like I said I've never had a baseline I really liked. So this year I decided I would try to get such a basline before getting another feathering prop (or getting my Kiwi fixed). A friend had a fixed 3 blade 15x9 that was used on a C34 with M25.

So at this point I have M25XP/Hurth ZF10 (equiv too HBF100)/fixed 3 blade 15x9.

So I don't have vibration issues, but I cannot seem to get the expected speed. At full throttle under way I cannot get above 2500-2600 (around 6 knots when no wind), but as the engine warms up I max out around 2200 (around 5.4 knots).

Not in gear I can go above 3000.

Everybody around the club, says I'm over pitched. but according to this site most of the fixed 3 blades in use are 15x10 with M25xp and 15x9 with M25 (which is where I got mine from).

I had the Racor filter and primary filter replaced. I think it was eventually "bled" properly, since it now always works just not very strong.

The Racor is before pump (should I still look at screen/filter at bottom)? I saw mention of intake screen; where is that (the boat came with new fuel tank).

Others mentioned not enough air, but everything looks like original setup. There is nothing in the air intake but a simple screen which is clear.

I know the injectors need cleaning (probably has never been done), could this be most of my problems?

What else can I check?

So to recap: So I always start under load with a max of around 2500-2600 (full throttle sometimes goes to 6 knots) and not too long after running I start to loose power and settles around 2200 (full throttle around 5.4 knots).

-PC
#8
Main Message Board / Garhauer traveler upgrade.
June 02, 2011, 03:37:37 AM
Does anyone have pictures/instructions on putting the rubber stoppers when putting on new Garhauer traveler? Something about drilling holes in the track. Where exactly do i drill holes?

Thanks
#9
I'm looking to get a new headsail and I've misplaced my measurement sheet. The mast is in the sparshed all covered up.

I have an existing jib at home that I used to get measurements and I was surprised at the lenght of the luff.

1988 Tall rig. My sail measures 43' 6". My question is Does anyone else have the luff measurement of a tall rig with the original Hood furler? The numbers in the manual (on this site) has a luff lenght of 44.33' for a furling sail. That's ~10" differences. I'm pretty sure, that if I don't have the furler attached to the deck and there is some room (i.e. I call pull on the halyard). I just don't know how much.

I'm going to the Miami boat show and I would like to order a sail before the launch of my boat (i.e. before I could measure).

Also,

I want to eventually replace the furler. Can people that have before and after numbers of the luff lenght let me know what furler they chose. I'm trying to find a solution that will result in the luff being the same of bigger (and therefore not have problems with new sail).

Thank you very much for your time.
#10
Main Message Board / How low can I go?
July 18, 2010, 09:28:44 PM
I have a new DC panel with a digital multimeter.

In my Don Casey book, there is a section on voltage and remaining capacity. It shows 12.2 as 50%. If this is the lowest point I want to bring my batteries before recharging, then I need to confirm is it when meter is showing 12.2 when nothing is running or when something is running (e.g. refrigeration)?

For example when nothing is running I could be seeing 12.32 and when refrig kicks on drop to 12.22. Then comes back up to near previous number when the refrig stops.

Thanks

-PC
#11
Main Message Board / Wheel brake maintenance kit
July 08, 2010, 12:23:47 PM
My wheel brake does not "brake much anymore". I bought a maintenance kit while back, but just did not take the time to fix it.

I was looking at what needs to be done and realized that it's not obvious how the compass is held in place (i.e. no visible screws). Any hints on removing the compass and anything else I should know before taking things apart to do the wheel brake maintenance.

Thanks,

Pierre
#12
Other then the 1" difference mentioned in other threads is there something else that needs to change in order to use ZF10M (HWB 100) transmission instead of HWB 50.

The HBW 50 I'm removing is a rebuilt I had put in only two summers ago. I used a new damper plate then.


Thanks,

Pierre
#13
Main Message Board / Rewiring cabin lights?
June 02, 2010, 10:02:43 AM
I'm in the process of upgrading many of the electrical components. New 2 AWG for everything connected to the battery, new "Add a battery" solution from Blue Sea (always on switch that keeps start and house separate and an ACR for combining two battery banks to one charging source/some argue against this, but seems best for my use), new AC and DC panels from Blue Sea.

I plan on slowly upgrade some of the wiring that leads to the panel. One of the problems I'm trying to solve is the wiring of the cabin lights. Currently it looks like one pos and one neg run all the way around up to the last light in the aft cabin and a splice into these wires for every light and therefore keeping everything parallel without having a complete run of wires back to the panel.

When people rewire the cabin lights do they do the same (but larger wire, since one used is too small in my opinion). What do they use for splicing (same inline crimp - by 3m i think)? Or are people recommending bringing all the wires back to the panel (that's alot of wiring)?

Thanks,

Pierre
#14
Main Message Board / refrigerator under nav station?
April 29, 2010, 09:14:08 AM

Has anyone put a front loading refrigerator (DC / optional AC) under the nav station. I saw the one in the wiki where they put an AC only one from Sears/Kenmore. There are a number of marine/rv models now that should fit in that spot. I'm trying to find the biggest one that can fit.

Thanks,

Pierre
#15
I'm trying to find a replacement bolt (machine screw) that I managed to damage while removing chain plates.

What it the proper description for this bolt or machine screw?

Slotted round head (seems bigger then normal round head)? 3/8 x 1-3/4" ? Bolt or Machine screw?

Any good sources for a replacement?

Thanks,

Pierre Comeau
#16
Main Message Board / New alternator
August 11, 2009, 09:50:00 AM
Has anyone replaced their alternator recently for the M25XP engine? I'd like to keep it around 70A to 80A. Any model numbers that were/are easy replacement for the original Motorola? Are there other external regulators other then the Balmar ones?

Thanks,

Pierre





#17
I participate in local club "monday night race" (no spinnakers, the real racers don't come out, more fun, good learning).

I have a 1988 TM model and another member has a 1986 STD model (both fin keel) and the club right now has us a 9 sec apart on PHRF rating.

They use the US sailing PHRF HI LO AVG numbers, then adjust for cruising night.

boat          LO    HI     AVG     Club Cruising number
C34 STD    144   159   150      162
C34 TM      135   150   141      153

always 9 seconds apart. I noticed from a few club lists I was able to find, that some clubs only have around 3 sec difference.

Does anybody have multiple C34 boats racing at their club where some are STD and others TM? What is the typical difference.

The other boat always moves as well or better. His sails are in better shape and I think he has bigger genoa/jib. I have a 135%.
#18
Main Message Board / Manson supreme anchor
May 26, 2009, 07:32:02 AM
Does anyone have the Manson supreme anchor? I'm looking at getting the 25lbs model (our boat size is at top of 25lbs and bottom of 35lbs). From what I read Manson's recommended sizes are conservative, so the 25lbs should be more then adequate. Any comments/feedback would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Pierre
#19
Main Message Board / Kiwi prop RPM/speed
August 06, 2008, 11:17:31 AM
I'm looking for information from people with a Kiwi prop with an M-25XP.

when I ordered it, I asked it to be set to 19 degrees (10") pitch as suggested by others on this forum.

As mentioned in other postings, I had to replace the transmission and I have reason to believe that the refurbished transmission is not working properly (It was very stiff upon arrival).

Does anyone have RPM/speeds, max RPM in forward and reverse? I max out around 2600-2700 rpm in forward and around 1100 in reverse (reverse seemed adequate until I tried it in heavy winds).

If my tach is reading right, what speeds should I expect @ around 2200 RPM? If I'm not getting the speed expected at 2200 rpm, could that mean I'm under pitched? I'm assuming overpitched would be faster @2200 but the max RPM would be lower or could over pitch still mean slower speeds at 2200 rpm? I never did confirm that the prop was sent to me properly pitched (other then on paper).

Thanks,

Pierre
#20
Main Message Board / alternator replacement?
August 05, 2008, 08:28:20 AM

Has anyone replaced the stock alternator for their M-25XP recently? I'm looking for the simplest change. I see from a previous post that there may be a newer Balmar alternator that is the same size. What about regulator?

Is this something I will need a mechanic to do for me?

Thanks,

Pierre
#21
Main Message Board / Too many changes no baseline!
August 05, 2008, 08:21:39 AM
I started the season with a new shaft, coupler, cutlass bearing, shaft seal, and Kiwi prop. When it when in the water I thought it was pretty noisy when in gear. I had never heard it before the changes (bought it in December), so I thought maybe it was the shaft seal. I did very little motoring, but the noise got worse and was determined the transmission was failing.

I ordered and had installed a refurbished transmission and when it came the mechanic thought there was a problem (It was stiff and would not turn by hand. It would also stall the engine when put in reverse). He knew that it would take a while to get a replacement and I wanted to leave for vacation (week long cruise with our club/fleet), so he installed it anyway. The stiffness seams to have improved, but I'm not sure.

I have to many changes and no baseline. I did not get the speed I expected from the Kiwi prop. Max RPM is lower then expected (~2600).

Assuming the tach is working, @ 2200 RPM I was getting 4.5 knots pulling an inflatable tender. Also, the mechanic was really concerned about max RPM in reverse. I just assumed it was the Kiwi prop. What should the max RPM be in reverse?

Until yesterday, I thought reverse power was more than adequate. But yesterday in heavy winds my reverse was very, very poor.

As mentioned earlier, I had never motored for any length of time until recently. Now when the engine is warm, the idle is much lower then when cold and If I bring the throttle all the way down, I stall the engine when I go to reverse.

I'm going to get someone to help me go through these issues. But any comments would be appreciated. I'm still not sure if I should keep the transmission (very labor expensive to pull out and get replacement again).

Someone mentioned, that if the tach is reading right at 2200 rpm, then the prop is my problem with speed. I had it set at the factory to 19 degrees (10 in pitch) as suggested by others. I did not confirm that it was set properly.

Thanks,

Pierre
#22
Main Message Board / replacing raw water pump?
June 30, 2008, 08:02:30 AM
I ordered a new Oberdorfer raw water pump as the old one looked like it was leaking at the mount and at the cover.

I have not installed it yet, because I'm worried of how much time I'm going to take. The old one leaked long enough to completely rust the mounting bolts. Even if I can put the new pump using the old bolts (which I doubt), it would not make sense to leave those rusted bolts on.

What is involved in removing those bolts, where would I get replacements?

Thanks,

Pierre
#23
Main Message Board / Nicro Solar vent replacement.
June 25, 2008, 08:40:12 AM
I bought a new Nicro Day & Night Plus Solar Vent (N20604S) for the aft cabin thinking I would just pop out the old one and push in the new one. Oops, not exactly.

The Day/Night plus actually is not one that makes use of the deck plate style. This one you remove old trim, enlarge hole to 4 3/4", screw new mounting plate (after removing it from fan assembly), then screwing fan assembly back on. There is also an optional trim ring you can screw on.

Only realizing this once I got the new fan, I did more research, since I thought I had read I could just push old one out and push new one in, I found out there is another solar fan (also with battery), but designed to go in deck plate and also double the price (sale price). It's known as day/night low profile or day and night 2000 (N20504BRS). The instructions show a deck plate that requires a 4 3/4" hole (which is larger, then existing hole), but I'm not sure if you keep existing deck plate you can push new vent in.

Has anyone tried the new "deck plate" model and just used the new fan? What about the new day / night plus (pushes more air) model (it's more fragile then other model, carefull stepping on it I guess)?

Thanks,

Pierre
#24
Main Message Board / Traveler upgrade kit?
June 12, 2008, 08:00:11 AM
Does anyone know if the following from Catalina Direct

Traveler Car Upgrade for Straight Track

Product #: Z2251

http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=1092

is the same as the following from Garhauer (minus the track)

http://garhauermarine.com/ProductSpecs.cfm?pid=177 (MT-2 on this page http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=34

Is this the traveler upgrade that many people have mentioned in previous posts?

What about mainsheet block arrangement? What have people changed? New blocks / different configuration? Anyone have pictures?
I still have the configuration shown on page 26 of 1988 owners manual http://www.c34.org/manuals/1988/1988-C34-Owners.pdf
#25
As some of you know from my previous postings I put in a new shaft, coupler, PSS seal cutlass and prop, now I'm looking at tuning the shaft alignment.

From what I understand, I loosen the bolts from the coupler to transmission, then what?

The local diesel mechanic is not a fan of dripless shaft seals, so I'm reluctant to ask him to align the shaft. I'm going to ask around for someone else. Is there something special to take care of with a dripless seal?

Thanks
#26
Main Message Board / Latest tracked leak.
June 01, 2008, 04:32:19 PM
There was heavy rain last night and the boat is finally in water and I discovered a new leak. I found a puddle in the aft cabin. I was actually expecting one, but actually found another reason for this puddle.

I'm not sure what the proper terms is for the deck drains we have around the deck (4 or 6 small indentations in the deck with small holes thru the hull). The one on the starboard side over the aft cabin was clogged with debris so the water was accumulating and slowly leaking into the cabin. I tested my theory by cleaning the hole, then drying things up and made sure the dripping leak had stopped. I then plugged the hole with my finger and poured water into the indent and waited a few minutes. When I went into the cabin a significant amount had dripped in.

Has anyone had this problem? How did you fix it? I could somehow thouroughly clean the hole, fill it with epoxy and drill a new hole. Is there a simpler solution?

Also, I also have another leak in the aft cabin. I've re-bedded the guard posts, but not the wheel (I'm thinking of just putting silicone for this year). Others have mentioned the cockpit coamings. Where do leaks develop in the coamings? Are is the problem fixed?

Thanks,

Pierre
#27
Main Message Board / Thanks!
June 01, 2008, 04:13:17 PM
We finally had our launch this weekend (three weeks late, due to flooding).

I'd like to thank everyone for their ongoing support. Since we were late launching I talked myself into more work then I had originally planed for this year. As you may have read in other postings, I cut out my old shaft, got a new shaft, cutlass bearing, new coupler and PSS shaft seal. Oh and as long as I was at it, I got a Kiwi feathering prop (can you say reverse power, idle speed is almost to fast). Other then in water alignment, I got done on time for the launch.

A little bit of information for people looking to get a PSS shaft seal. As someone alluded to in a previous posting, even though they still make reference to fast and slow (< 12 or > 12 knots), the same seal is shipped out with the barb for a hose. The difference is how you use the hose (vent only for slow speed). The on-line web site still has the old installation instructions in the main page and the new instructions (included with the seal) in the download page. Lets just say, I panicked at first when I saw the barb and thought , no more work.... Actually, quite simple just run a proper hose out above the waterline and as close to centerline as possible. I brought it out next to the propane locker.

Another piece of advice, don't rush putting things back together thinking you will save time. I ended up ordering the coupler from Catalina Yachts directly, but they could get a shaft to me on time, so I got one made locally. I got the shaft and cutlass before the coupler, so I put the shaft and bearing back in (I had the machine shop build me the knock off version of the strutpro described in the C310 web site). Surprise, surprise the couple did not want to slip onto the new shaft... (It was off by a hair). After a combination of things I got them together. If I had waited, I could have brought the shaft and coupler back to the machine shop and actually saved myself some time.

Now, on to the mast, raw water pump, more leaks, and hopefully some sailing...
#28
Check out story on Frank Butler in latest Cruising world.

Here is the cover page.

http://www.zinio.com/express3?issue=262717147&o=int&prev=sub
#29
What are the steps to finish installation? I did not have the coupler when I got the shaft made and forgot about the dimples for the thru bolts.

There are specs about how much space between the flange and the coupler with without the mounting bolts on. When do I put dimples and tightened to thru bolts, Won't this be a critical part of the alignment?

Thanks,

Pierre
#30
Main Message Board / shaft length
May 18, 2008, 07:22:42 PM
Since I had to cut my shaft to separate it from the coupling (had planned on replacing both), I can't get a precise measurement.

Do you measure from the very end of the shaft and include the stub that the pin goes through?

I get around 57" even maybe a fraction little longer (the section left in coupler hard to measure). Does this match others?

I called Catalina and they told me sine they had a fire years ago, I had to get the length so they could tell if they had one in stock.

I see Catalina Direct has a 57" shaft, but it only lists the C36 with a M25-XP (same as in my C34).

Thanks,

Pierre
#31
Main Message Board / Shaft removal / Drop rudder?
May 17, 2008, 08:34:14 PM
I thought I had read that I could remove the shaft without removing the rudder, but I can't see how. Not without damaging/bending something.

I think I have a newer rudder. How do I tell. It seems longer then owners guide picture and it's more rounded at bottom. Is this my problem.

If I have to drop rudder, what are the steps for removal?

I have the wall off the aft cabin. I'm assuming I'll have to remove propane locker. After that what are the steps?

SinceI'm solid surface, I will have to be lifted. I will be replacing shaft, cutlass, new shaft seal. I'm hoping to drop rudder, put cutlass, and shaft, then put rudder back and lower back down.

Help!...
#32
Main Message Board / Flexible coupling?
May 13, 2008, 07:27:15 AM
Has anyone used a flexible coupling other then Vetus Bullflex (go2marine has Bullflex 2 at $523). How about "R & D Marine" flexible coupling (I'm not sure how it fits/works). It looks like it may work with existing coupler.

As for regular coupling, when they ask for "solid" or "split" what does that mean?   I was looking at "Buck Algonquin" coupling selection guide (at www.deepblueyachtsupply.com).

Thanks,

Pierre
#33
Main Message Board / Cutlass bearing
May 12, 2008, 07:24:07 AM
I'm running out of time before launch and prioritizing my work load.

There is significant movement in my shaft. I know the cutlass bearing needs replacement and the original bronze shaft probably needs to go also.

I would like to wait until the end of season (4 months worth) to do the job.

I thought of just replacing the cutlass bearing, but can't find anyone with tool to replace it without removing shaft.
The shaft coupling is extremely rusted and would like to avoid touching it until end of season (work on it during fall/winter/next spring).

Assuming I'm willing to put up with the vibration for the season; if I do nothing right now, what am I damaging?

Thanks,

Pierre
#34
I have to double check, but I believe I have the Oberdorfer pump on my M-25XP (I remember 4 screws on faceplate at last look).

Where have Canadians ordered impeller/gaskets or repair kits for their pumps?

Thanks,

Pierre
#35
Main Message Board / Mast wiring?
April 28, 2008, 08:14:09 PM
I'm looking at replacing the mast wiring and from the mast step to the panel. I was thinking of keeping the same wiring approach but with 14awg wire, that is three positive and one common ground/neg.

I know that a ground/neg run for each light is probably better, but is it required to meet new standards?

I'm looking to order some wire and was going to get "single wires". If this does not meet standards, then will change to order "dual wire".

Thanks
#36
Main Message Board / Xantrex Truecharge wiring
April 28, 2008, 09:37:50 AM
I'm looking at wiring my new Xantrex Trucharge20+ as in the picture. My question is, can I have a separate DC negative bus just for the charger connections and not "connected" to any other common bus?
#37
Main Message Board / keel bolts and keel crack.
April 19, 2008, 07:43:12 PM

I searched and found a few threads, but I can't seem to find the project that Ron makes reference to.

My problem started with finding a crack on the aft end of the keel thatwas weeping. I finally the bilge completely dry and the weeping started to dry up. Today I was cleaning up and some water got in the rear part and I noticed the weeping was back. At the same time I've been getting water "climb" up the forward keel bold (the boat is leaning down a little at forward end). It has not been raining for over a week and there is still water climbing up.

So today I started to remove the nuts from some of the keel bolts. The nuts came of relatively easy, but everything below is sealed tight. What does 5200 dried up look like (hard as rock)?

I started with three bolts. I freed up the lock washers and cleaned up to what looks like washers. If these washers are meant to be removed in order to properly reseal, then I have some work ahead of me. I'll take some pictures tomorrow to give better idea of my problem and get suggestions.

I know the leaks won't sink the boat, since the bilge stayed full of water, so I'm assuming the leak in will be slow.

Another thing is that the furthest back bolt is impossible to get to. The starboard bolt of the furthest "pair" is also slightly under the floor and could not get socket completely on. Anybody else have this problem?

Comments, pictures, suggestions would be appreciated. I'm going to run out of time before launch gets here...
#38
Main Message Board / portlight delamination
April 16, 2008, 10:38:05 AM
I got an unexpected surprise last night. While looking more closely at things, I removed the plastic covers of the Lewmar portlights to replace the Velcro. After removing one or two, I was taking a closer look to see if there was any water damage and noticed for the first time that almost have of the portlights have serious delamination around them (I don't know about leaks yet since the boat has been covered for the winter).

I'm not planning on doing anything right away if I don't have any leak problems. But When (or if) I need to remove/re-bed the portlights what are some suggestions to repair these? Just fill in the holes, I'm assuming I won't be able to compress them back together.

Is this a common problem? I did not find any mention when I did a search on the forum.

Thanks,

Pierre
#39
While removing the cabin sole and a few items to clean things up, trace problems, etc... I've was happy to see the use of mainly one type of screw. I think a 1" #6 Phillips oval head (I think it's how they are called).

I thought great I'll get a bunch more to replace some of the ones with damaged heads. Well, I learned about the Canada/US Phillips/Roberston story and have not been able to find the same screw in stock anywhere. I found flat head Roberston screws at awesome prices (for SS), no oval heads yet.

Canadians, have any of you found a source for the same stock screws?

Thanks,

Pierre
#40
Main Message Board / AC fault
April 13, 2008, 07:54:10 AM
I seem to have the original 1988 AC breakers/panel and I'm having a problem (ground fault).

I plugged the AC to a GFCI plug at the boat yard (we have access to AC during winter storage). and the GFCI at the source tripped. I assumed It was because of the water I got over the winter.

After a few weeks of drying everything up. I decided to try the AC again. Same problem. So I started tracing the problem.

One of the previous owners introduced a GFCI outlet/plug at the nav station/panel and therfore changed how the remaining outlets were wired at the panel so every outlet is part of the GFCI circuit. After different attempts at isolating the problem, I tought I had it down to bad outlets (when they were removed from the system the GFCI at the source did not trip).

So I replaced the outlets I tought were bad (including the GFCI at the nav station). Still did not work.

I removed everything from the AC wiring and only left the main breaker and the new GFCI (line in only, no out load to other outlets). I also removed all other connections from common bus.

I make sure the breaker is turned off at the nav station, then plug the AC outside. I turn the breaker on, the light on the GFCI plug turns green and everything stays up. I then plug a lamp to the GFCI plug (a light that I plug directly on the same extension cord fine) and the GFCI trips at the source (not the nav station).

Before I rip wiring out, is it possible the main AC breaker is the problem? I'll also have to look at using an ohm meter to check for fault (I used the approach and thought I had it track down to outlet, I will have totry again).

Thanks,

Pierre
#41
Main Message Board / aft cabin leak
April 03, 2008, 05:53:00 PM
I tracking a number of leaks (new or developed this winter. It was a bad winter here).

First leak seems to come from the steering pedestal base (access box in aft cabin). How is this fixed (just at the access box or at the pedestal...)?

The second is from the hose/stanchion vent to the holding tank. What a place for a leak (near all electrical). I'm assuming the stanchion needs re-bedding (unless the it come through the hose that over winter???).

There seems to be a couple more. I think they are from the chainplates...

Thanks
#42
Hi Fellow Canadians,

There has been topics in the past where the portable generator of choice is the Honda EU1000i. Has anyone tried the Yardworks model available at Canadian Tire (http://www.canadiantire.ca/browse/product_detail.jsp?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=1408474396672946&bmUID=1200762426954&PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524443296839&assortment=primary&fromSearch=true)? It's currently on for $299. It has a 4 year warranty. It's rated 50W less then the Honda (for but max and continuous numbers).

Everybody Else,

What is the typical maintenance schedule on the Honda EU1000i? How often change oil and spark plugs. The little bit of information I found for the Yardworks is that it is frequent (10 - 20 hours).


I will only be cruising long weekends at a time and maybe 1-2 one full week cruise. So very low usage. So $299 sounds like a good deal...

All comments welcome,

New Catalina 24 owner (Can't wait 'til spring for my first sail with it),

Pierre Comeau

1988 #687 (currently looking at renaming it from TIME to keel).
#43
Main Message Board / "Time to Keel" in Huntington, NY
November 14, 2007, 03:58:24 PM
After getting great advice from my last posting, I tought I'd try again.

I'm looking to make an offer on a boat currently for sale in Huntington, NY. It's a 1988 named "Time to Keel". The vendor broker has not been the most helpfull with me or my broker. My offer will be conditional on inspection and a survey. Since the trip down is still signifcant, It would be nice to know that the boat is in reasonable condition (i.e. skip alltogether if it's not).

Has anybody seen this boat before and if so, how recent? Does anyone live in Huntington and maybe willing to take a look?

Thank you very much in advance,

Pierre
#44
Main Message Board / Florida or Northern States
October 21, 2007, 07:30:07 AM
I'm looking at Catalina 34's along te east coast. There is a very nice looking one (according to a large number of pictures) in Florida that is very well priced. I'm from Canada where we only have our boats in for a few months of the year and the boys around the yard are telling o stay away from a Florida boat. My question is, shouldn't an adequate marine survey give me a good indication of the hull and deck? What should the marine survey look for (anything in particular about a 1986 Catalina 34 they should look for)? It's been awlgriped back in March, could it be hiding something, will a survey catch it?

The pictures shows a very well taken of boat (better then the ones up in New England states and alot cheaper). I'm thinking if shipping / hauling is not to bad, then this could be a good deal...

Any comments? Any Canadian / New Englanders buy a Florida (or southern) Cataliana / or other boat?

Is it nuts to depend on a marine survey only (i.e. not even go down to see it)?

Thanks