Topics

I have the diesel tank out of the boat for repairs, and I'm considering adding some airflow under the tank when I put it back. The plywood shelf the tank sits on is poorly glassed and part of the tank sits in moisture. The shelf also has a raw edge that has soaked some diesel, so I can't glass over it without removing & rebuilding, which I won't have time to do until Fall.

I'd like to get some airflow under the tank when I put it back in. I'm considering putting a thin, hard commercial rubber doormat with holes or channels molded in under the tank. Should be easy to cut, resistant to oil/ fuel, free of electrical/ galvanic corrosion issues, and provide some airflow without introducing anything that would rattle or bang around.

Anyone see a downside to this?

We replaced the sails on our Catalina 34 standard rig and have the old sails available for sale or trade. They came off a '87 boat, but I doubt they are the original sails, so I don't know how old they are. These are UK sails, loose footed, double reefed, full batten main. Foam luff 150% head sail with Pacific blue Sunbrella. There are no sail numbers, but there is a Catalina 34 logo.

These are used sails. I've had them cleaned and restitched in the past by North in Seattle. Last year we were going to have the sun cover replaced since it was so dirty, but they said it's been stitched back on a few times and that they didn't want to put a new one on without cutting the sail down. About then we decided to launch on a refit of the boat, so we just bought new sails.

The sails are a bit little dirty, have some minor stains, and a small repair or two. They have a lot of life left though. As a matter of fact, they were out last Saturday blasting through winds we probably shouldn't have been out in anyway. I took good pictures and would be happy to email them if your interested.

Rough measurements:
Main: Luff 37, leach 39, foot 11'9"
Main: Luff 43, leach 40'8", foot 21'3"

Sail are located in Seattle/ Tacoma area

Haven't had time to research used prices yet so will entertain offers.
Have a lot of boat & bicycle needs/ wants that I'd consider in a trade or trade/ cash trade/ pay you mix:

New mainsail cover (StackPack)
Sunbrella fabric (Pacific Blue)
Adler Barbour refrigerator compressor or recharge work
Stand up paddle board
Portable freezer (ac/ dc Dometic style)
Sailing dingy
Alfine 11 or Rolloff bikes or wheels
Backhoe/ excavator yard work
Companion way doors
Acrylic forward hatch
or?

34Noeta@comcast.net

I've been using the tacktick wireless instruments for a couple of years now. There's a lot I love about the system, but there is a quirk or two.

Coming back from the Gulf Islands my system shut off.  It did the same thing a year ago in the same area. At the time I assumed it was faulty wind sender unit and replaced it. This year the new unit did it again in the same area. By the end of the day it came back on, showed correct data, and workled perfect again.

Any other TackTick owners experience someting like this? Would love to compare notes in general with other owners.

OK, installed a new roller, side cleats, etc.

Then I noticed that removing the center line cleat means I have no place to tie down my anchor.

My question is this: Is the back (aft) wall of the anchor locker strong enough to mount a cleat for the anchor line?

Anyone ever replaced the foam in the salon cushions? My fabric is great, but the foam is really broken down. This is especially true of the dinette.

If anyone has replaced the foam I'd love to get a rough idea of price before I start hauling cushions around or waste someone's time coming to the boat.

Odd question, but something we debated over dinner last night:

Do you tip the dock help when they help you tie up or launch? Not talking about casual help, but marina employees at some nicer marinas and some resorts.

Is there a reason to spend 3 times the money to buy 100% silicone from West Marine over the $5.00 100% silicaone from Home Depot?

I pulled all my ports to deal  with some leaks. A couple of them have large voids, and there was moisture in them.

I've read the threads about filling the void with epoxy. My question is this: The voids do not appear to be an issue in terms of strength or structure. Why fill them with epoxy? Seems that all I really need to do is fill the void to eliminate a water path. I also doubt I could properly clean & fill the voids (deep or on top of the hole) with epoxy, Instead of epoxy, what about some sort of injectable closed sell foam?

Also, how do  dry the liner out without drilling?

Yes, I've spent a couple of evenings searching old posts, but....

I'm trying to track down leaks. My  '87 has a Harken traveler with 4 screws, but none are though bolted.

I suspect a minor leak in the traveler, and started to remove it. Problem is a couple of screw simply don't want to come out. Getting them out is going to involve some damage somewhere.

I'm looking for either hints to remove the screw/ bolt, or a clean way to seal the traveler in place. With the 4 bolts (per side) in place. I'm not too concerned about the strength, just want it dry.

Just passing a bit of information on: West Marine (on line) has the trim rings for the Beckson ports on a clearance sale for a touch over $5.00 a piece.

Disclaimer: I have no financial connection with West marine, as long as you don't count the fact that about 25% of my income seems to almost automatically slide across their counter every month

Thanks to all the threads on small generators, I opted to buy a Yamaha 1000 instead of upgrading my house bank and adding a starter battery. Hooked it up today and played around. For what it's worth it:

Very quiet, but I'd still be very self conscious about running it in an anchorage.
Light enough to be a non- issue
Fits in the port locker

AC lighting- No problem for a couple of 60 watt lamps.
Portable  heater (West Marine)- Ran OK as long as the fan wasn't on max
Xantrex 20- Looks OK
Blender, small hair dryer, TV, small shop vac (OK, we were playing around at this point)- one at a time (with lights also running)- no problem.
Water heater- nope. Overloaded and shut down.

I do have a question or two:

1) The power obviously goes up and down as items draw power. Is this going to damage the charger?

2) The AC lights  on the panel- Usually both are lit, but with the generator only one was lit. Is this an issue, or is the boat just saying " this is 15 amps, not the 30 I'm used to?"

Have to redo all the exterior teak this Spring. I want to use a Cetol type product, but avoid the Cetol type color.

I decided to try West Marine's Wood Pro semi gloss finish.  Fortunately, I had a test ready to go with the cockpit table and a new teak drink holder.

The table was old and previously oiled. I sanded, rubbed with alcohol, light sand and another alcohol rub.
The drink older was brand new. I used two alcohol rubs with a very light 220 sanding in between.

Finished them both.

While not the 4-5 hours the can says, the table set up over night.

The drink holder is still tacky a two days later 

Has anyone used this product?
Any ideas on the best way to remedy the finish on the new teak drink holder?

I'm looking for a 24X24 piece of 3/4" teak faced plywood to rebuild the steps/ motor cover.  All I can find locally is full 4X8 sheets for well over $200.

If anyone has some left over from another project please drop me a line. I'd be happy to work out a deal.

I'm in the Tacoma/ Seattle area.