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So I was measuring the hanging locker in preparation for adding A/C to the boat in the spring.  I was surprised to see that the dimensions are generally 13-1/2" x 19-1/2" which does not accommodate any of the 16K A/C units I have looked at. If I go to a 12K unit it is much closer, but wanted to hear from others who have the A/C in the hanging locker.  If I remove the wood sides, I can gain 1/8" to the aft side and maybe an 1" to the front if I remove the spaces that are glassed in, but there are electrical runs I'd have to work with.  Also, if I remove the wood panels, it opens up more area which is open to the hull therefore increasing the amount of air I would pull from that area as opposed to the cabin area. 

I know A/C has been written written about a lot on this forum, but am left scratching my head about the hanging locker install.  If anyone has a MKII with a hanging locker install, I'd love to see pictures.

Used Boom Tent.  Came on boat when I bought it.  Never used it.  Appears to be in fair condition, pictures show worn areas.  The material is NOT Sunbrella. Buyer pays shipping.  $150 obo.

[$500 obo]

New Bimini fro a 1989 C34.

Came on the boat when I bought it, but did not have poles so I never used it.  It looks like it came from The Canvas Store in NY.  Comes with boot as well.  Buyer pays shipping. $500 obo.

I'm replacing the refrigeration on my 1989, the current compressor is located in the starboard lazarette, behind the rear water tank. I plan to replace it with the Adler Barber CU-100 compressor and VD-150 evaporator.  It says it comes with 15' of tubing.  Has anyone replaced their unit and can attest to the fact that the 15' really works or will I need to get the extension kit?  I have heard conflicting stories that the 15' of tubing is really not 15', but was hoping to get some first hand experience.

Does anyone know where you can buy a sun shade like the one in this picture?  (picture hijacked form Yachtworld.com) It attaches to your dodger then connects to the backstay, seems like a perfect set up.  I guess I could buy the material and make one, but wanted to see what they cost first.

I think I have a very slight leak on my FW Pump. (See the Photo)  I was looking over the engine this past weekend and say this.  It looks like it originates from the FW Pump location.  I have read a few posts about replacing the pump with a rather inexpensive one from Kubota, but my question is, do I need a while new pump, or is just the gasket leaking?  If I am draining all the coolant and removing the pump to put on a new gasket should I just replace it?  I only have about 500hrs on my 25XP engine.  I have heard about peoples pumps freezing up, were there signs such as this small leak ahead of time, or did it just seize up without any prior indicators?  I ask because I would prefer to do this project in a few weeks when I have a little time.  Any thoughts or comments are welcome.  BTW, how difficult is this project, seems straight forward, but I may be missing something.

I am looking to replace the mast boot with the mast up.  The old one is pretty beat and leaks bad, and I don't plan to pull my stick anytime soon.  I have seen the universal mast boot at WM which requires you to cut it and then use the adhesive to glue it back.  My thought/question is, it doesn't look like the universal boot will work with the C34 mast as the block for the main sheet is very close to the deck.  Has anyone used a C34 boot from Catalina Direct and just slit it down one side, or does this create a big problem, meaning it leaks.  Sounds simple, but thought I would ask of anyone has done this before.  Thoughts?

Sailing this weekend I was experiencing the mast moving forward and aft.  It was blowing about 12 knots with 3-5' waves.  I hadn't seen this before.  The wedges had fallen out earlier this season, is the the reason?  Should the backstay have been tightened to prevent the movement?  It was moving about 1/2 an inch each direction when we were hitting waves.  I guess the wedges would have helped, but it seems they should be there just to center the mast, not take the load when the mast moves.  Any thoughts?

I am planning to install the Trucharge 20, and have a couple of questions.

First, looking at the installation instructions it recommends placing fuses or breakers between the charger output and the battery connection, I assume an inline fuse would work well, but I am not sure what size fuse is needed.  The largest output from the charger would be 14.8v, but not sure how to equate this to a fuse size in amps.  Is the fuse even necessary?

Second, I can't seem to find any information on the remote panel for the Trucharge 20 as to the dimensions of the unit.  If anyone has one and can give me approximate dimensions I would appreciate it.  Also, if anyone has any recommended place to put the remote panel please let me know.

As always, if there are any pointers or tips on the install, or the product in general please let me know.

I am looking at replacing the old Datamarine speed and depth with Raymarine ST60's.  My question is, should I expect the ST60's through hulls to fit in the holes from the Datamarine?  I see there are a few post similar, but it does not address this swap specifically. 

I suspect the holes will be too large, if this is the case any advice would be great.

Also, I am adding apparent wind, any tips for mounting the transducer and wiring with the mast up would be appreciated.  I don't expect anything tricky, I will just need to spend some time at the top of the mast.  Will it be easy to get the wire from the transducer into the mast conduit?

Thanks.

I'm having some engine problems, I think I know what is wrong, but looking for some advise how to fix.  I am getting air in the fuel supply to the engine, when I bleed the system from the injectors, I get the engine started.  I run for a awhile, shut down, let sit for about an hour and it starts fine, perfect, no hesitation.  I let it sit overnight and I have the same problem as I first had.  I have tightened all the hose clamps, visually inspected the fuel supply lines, and at this point I'm looking for advise on how to find a leak (obviously extremely small) in the fuel lines.  Based on the symptoms, is there a specific place I should look for the leak?  Because I need to bleed it from the injectors, I feel the problem is after the primary fuel filter.  Does it sound like the problem is in the fuel return line?  I have searched the database, but I have not found any tricks or tips, just the diagnosis.  Any help tracking down my leak would be much appreciated.  Thanks.

After reading some posts, do you think my symptoms sound like a glow plug problem?  I hear the "click" when I hit the glow plugs, I get the 2v drop, but if my plugs were not working properly, would I get the engine started by bleeding it?  It seems that if I had some place where I get air in the system, the engine would run rough or die while running, that's not the case.  Hmmmm?

I have a 1989, but I am looking at the 2004 Manual for wiring upgrade info, more specifically the 12V wiring diagram, it shows the 20 amp charger comming from a 10 amp breaker at the panel.  I am looking to revise my wiring to place a dedicated breaker for my 20 amp charger, but it seems to me I would want a 20 amp breaker.  It seems to me I could never "max out" my charger (good or bad) meaning I would trip the breaker at the panel, before I could get the full potential out of the charger.  Is this correct?  Any input would be helpful.

What is the correct cap for the M-25XP?  I have a small amount of coolant that seems to come from the overflow.  Currently I have a 13psi cap, I can't seem to find the correct pressure for the cap in the manual.  I'm hoping it is just the wrong cap that the PO has used.

When I turn on the water at the faucet water spots out rather forcefully as if I had just filled the tank or I was trying to run out the last bit of water.  I filled the tanks, so I know I have a water.  The pump doesn't cycle, I know I'm not loosing pressure on the output of the pump.  When I look at the lies as it is pumping, it appears there is air in the line, like it is pumping air into the system.  I cleaned the water filter, checked the screen at the faucet, checked for similar occurrences on the website, but nothing seems fit my symptoms.  Is it possible to get air into the system prior to the pump some how? Any thoughts?

Also, none of my navigation lights are working, rather than chase down each light, do you think there is a common place that would solve my probelm?  I think the breaker for these items is OK as other items work that use that breaker. 

On a separate note, is there a circuit breaker that is readily available at WM that can replace the push button ones?  I would prefer the kind with the toggle, I think they are by Ancor Marine, will they just be a swapout?

Where can I find my hull#?  It is not on the sails, I have the hull ID number from the title, but any idea what part of this is the "hull #" if any of it?  Just curious.

I put my boat in the water this weekend and was going to transport it about 12 miles back to the marina, with 4'-6' waves and 25k+ winds, I made it about 2 miles dead into the wind and waves before I turned back because the engine was "acting up."  There was a sudden drop in rpm's and then after that with almost full throttle was only doing about 2,000 rpms, but would occasionally fluctuate back up, then back down.  Eventually as I was back at dock I let the boat idle, then the rpms dipped way down and the engine stopped.  It started back up after a few minutes, but the same problems persisted.  The diesel in the boat is old, I suspected that the seas churned up the tank, therefore I assume it is a clogged fuel filter giving me these problems.  Is this correct, or would the engine have just quit on me outright?  I do not want to remove the tank for cleaning, especially since there is almost 12 gallons of fuel in it (what would I do with all this fuel?), but should I expect to keep relacing filters most of the season till I can burn through the tank?  I have never replaced a fuel filter, but will read up on the other posts, but I want to make sure this is the correct diagnosis.  Any help?

I have a questions regarding the shower drain and how this is supposed to be set up. 

1.  Does the shower sump pump, pump into the holding tank, or out though the "inlet" for the shower/head?  I have attached the diagram from the owners manual and I am confused.  It looks like it would pass through the head to get to the holding tank??

2.  How should the sump pump be correctly wired?  Should I have to flip the switch at the main board and then control the sump from the switch in the head? 

3.  Am I correct by saying that the shower doesn't use on-board water?

4.  As a new owner, my guess is the PO did some "fancy wiring" in that the only way I get power to the main bilge pump is by flipping the panel switch for the shower sump.  This can't be right??  Do most people place a separate bilge switch located somewhere other than the main panel that allows automatic / on / off settings?  If so, where is the most common place?

Sorry for all the questions, but as a new owner I have many questions, I'm sure many more to come.  Any help would be great.

Thanks.

I have a pretty basic set up at the helm with the two original "pods" one with depth and one with speed.  My question is, both these pods are loose, but I cannot tighten them any more (either the screw has frozen in place or something else).  Has anyone else had a problem like this, if so how did they solve this?  Any advise is much appreciated.

Where did the For Sale area of the website go?  I ask because I would like to post a Wanted ad... If anyone is in the Cleveland / Sandusky area and is looking at getting rid of a dinghy of any kind I am intrested.  I have a limited budget, but am willing to entertain anything.  Please let me know as sailing season is soon approaching.

Has anyone experienced moisture in the deck near the stanchions?  In particular the port stanchion also used as the vent for the holding tank.  There is actually softening of the deck in this area, and it os onlt a 89'.  Is there anything I can do to reclaim the deck or to further stop the softening?  I've been told to dry out the core the best I can, remove as much of the core as I can from the stanchion holes and then us an epoxy to fill the area, but I don't know how to do this unless I cover the entire boat for the winter.  Does this seem like a feasible solution, any better ideas?  I have seen a "penetrating epoxy" in the WM catalogue, has anyone used this before?  Any help would be great.