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Had my compass rebuilt in Annapolis 2 winters ago. As others have said , mine also lifted twisted off.this revealed a bracket mounted with 4 long bolts seized quite heavily. Bought a large slotted screwdriver with a square shaft. The fit was snug. Used full body weight on screwdriver and a friend turned shaft with a wrench. Carefully and with heavy pressure got them out. Replaced with new ss Philips with anti seize.  Also replaced steering cables while I was at it. Good luck! BTW They didn't break free, just moved incrementally an eighth of a turn at a time, Major PIA

Try Dan  "indian Falls" on this board.  That is who owns it. Works great !

Steve : I have a hard time understanding you disappointment that your Sherwood Pump is leaking after 37 years!!  Guess they just don't make them like they used to!!!   

But I pass on My condolences   

Indeed this pump owes me no apologies!

Thanks for the info, like the idea of s.s. fittings and will rearrange with new hoses to one strait fitting. Going to go with 15 version, mostly because ihave it in hand and ideally don't want to wait 2 more weeks exchanging it  to get out and sail. If it's not optimal at the end of the season I'll switch up to the 16. Just finished changing engine mounts, exhaust riser and hump hose and repair of muffler. New steering cables and a refurbished compass. Wife said its time to sail and I agree 

I noticed that that my old Sherwood pump is weeping water through the weep holes. Yea it's the old one with 6 face plate screws has seen its last days. I researched this site and decided on the Oberdorfer N202M-15 for replacement. Parts and Pumps online had it for 267.00 + 16 surcharge, for a grand total of 283.00 with free shipping. Looks like a straight swap out with hose barbs fitting and flange plate configuration matching that of the old Sherwood. It did not come with a flange to engine gasket. (It did have the upgraded neoprene impeller gasket) My question, is this gasket necessary as I don't see this as sealing in water? Curious as to the boards thoughts on this.

Thanks for the feedback, Ken I like the idea of using a bottoming tap to clear the threads, makes sense, I will have to reread tips and tricks for bottom stud but I am fortunate to have long arms and I was able to reach around from the front of the engine. The nuts released fairly easily. The plan was to give a modest attempt at turning the nuts and if no success soaking with PB Blaster and trying a week later. The top nuts were released with a 6 sided ratchet. Great advice Ron, it held the nuts tight. Of course the bottom nut was seized. I bought a crescent brand wrench 12 point (no 6 point available so I went with what they had), it made some claim about pressure on the nut head was improved, it worked but I honestly didn't see a difference with my Napa box wrench comparing them side by side. Was able to use short arcs from the side, took awhile but success. That's why I thought a ratchet box would be better. Didn't think about its size. Thanks again

Going forward with removal and maintenance of the exhaust riser. Lots of great information on this site so I felt confident with this first time project. Top two flange nuts came off no problem using 9/16 ratchet with 6 sided socket. As for the bottom nut I used a 9/16 inch box wrench. Next time I would use a ratcheting 6 sided box wrench. The nut was completely seized to the stud but the stud ended up turning out so I was able to remove it fairly easily. I ordered new studs from Catalina Direct. Are there any techniques to screwing the new stud in to the manifold? I saw in a discussion about putting two nuts on the end of the stud to act as a head to turn stud in. Are the threads treated with anti-seize, or something like WD40? Then when putting the flange nuts back on is something like locktite used? At first look the riser looks in good shape but the gasket is well past due for replacement. Also replacing black muffler hose with a new hump hose. Thanks for your input.

I was the previous recipient before Kyle. My bearing was heavily seized. Cranking down on the wrenches were to no avail. Penetrating oils, tapping with a hammer etc. were a no go. My machinist friend who was helping me had an impact wrench and working back and forth on the nuts a little at a time, A huge pop and out she went. This slightly warped the threaded bars so I replaced the threaded bars with new ones and ran the threads and nuts with appropriate tap and dye until it turned smoothly. Otherwise the tool worked extremely well, no problems withdrawing it from shaft tube.

I am using Ron's design and it works perfectly (Thanks Ron!) . I have a full batten main, and traditional sail cover. I believe I used 3/16 inch line, and instead of three cradles I used four. On my previous version I used three and that worked fine also. I left the cradle lines long and fasten them under the boom with a hitched square knot. I just haven't bothered to do anything more there, eventually I may use a nylon clasp if I get around to it. To do it again I would still use four cradles but I would consider using a thicker line where it crosses the spreaders and mast. Really simple and cheap design. I'm going to the boat tomorrow and I can get you some measurements if you are interested.

Sure, I can add to this conversation. Redid my holly teak sole and went to a slightly larger wood screw. Decided to enlarge hole with my power drill. Drilled into what I was hoping was a fresh water line, Deep down I new what I had done and the murky water confirmed the hull breach. Bone headed mistake... $400, Story to tell... Priceless. Thank You, I do feel better 

Not sure how your rigger could tell "it was 1987 original rigging"??? Carbon dating?? But if if looks bad, or has had over 10+ years of heavy use, or you don't know its history on an older new-to-you boat... change it.

Apparently there is an identifying mark on some part of the rigging, I don't remember which, the manufacturers started using sometime in the early 90's. Prior to that there was no mark. Ours had no mark confirming my suspicion it was original rigging. 

I second what TortolaTim said. Had mine done this summer at Lankford Bay Marina, Sipala Spars, Rock Hall. Said I had original 1987 rigging as I suspected. Pulled mast, replaced all rigging with new turnbuckles, Harken Roller Furler Mark 4 with all blocks and furling line, (the old hood continuous line furler was just about dead) including all crane fees labor to install rigging and furler ran about 8100. Also had new LED anchor light, steaming and deck light plus windex installed while mast was down. Glad I had it done, had grave concerns of rigging failure, dis-masting etc. All in all I think the price was fair and Mike Sipala was great to work with.

Don't forget about the heater hose. Replaced mine just in time.

Picked up a gallon dry vac at ace hardware. Stores well and good suction to clear the gaps in minutes.

I'll be checking back early spring as I'll be replacing my cutless as well, Just curious if Strut Pro or home made device is in the Rock Hall Chesapeake area?