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The oil pressure switch is located near the alternator. If they worked in that area, they may have inadvertantly pulled the tach wire out from the back of the alternator.
So check the back of the panel as well as the back of the alternator for a loose wire.

Roland

I know this is an old thread, but I wanted new information to be available to anyone who finds this post.
18 years ago, I replaced the C34 logo on my mainsail cover.  The person who sold me the logo patch is no longer in business.   I tried Catalina and Catalina Direct and neither could provide them.

So I had a local sign company make them up for me.  They are the same size as the original diamond shaped logo so sewing them on will be easy.  If anyone is looking for them, contact Baker Sign Works https://www.bakersignworks.com/index.html in Fall River MA. 

Roland

Did you test the shower sump pump switch?   Mine failed a few years ago.

I have had my pump stop working because of debris fouling the check valves.  This year it stopped working because the rubber bladder in the pump (pulsation dampner) had a tear in it. I replaced the dampner but also put a piece of fine screening in the floor drain hole, to trap any hair or other debris. Removing and cleaning the screen peiodically is easy.

I found that reinstalling the pump is harder than removing it since you can get only one hand/arm in there.   I found that putting 2 of the screws in with the rubber grommets in their holes, and then fitting the pump to those points held the pump in place sufficiently so that I could put the third screw in.  Even with that, it took quite a few tries.

Roland

Good winter project.     What's your plan for refinishing?
I had great luck with using 3 coats of cetol , finished with 3 coats of clear gloss.

I had this problem in the spring and silicone grease solved it.  Last winter , I had put about a half gallon of leftover pink antifreeze in the head.   I suspect the antifreeze impacted the O rings in the head pump  unit.  I won't do that again.

I had the same bracket failure problem on my M25xp and Joe Joyce sent me replacements.
While waiting for the replacements, I had one of the broken ones welded back together, at least for a backup.   The new bracket had a longer gusset plate, to prevent the bracket from failing again. So far so good.   

While you did mention an episode with seaweed pluggage, one thing not mentioned is checking the engine intake thru hull for restrictions, like barnacles etc. 

I replaced my 8 year old monofilament lines last year.  I replaced them using the spare spool of monofilament line that I bought at the time I bought the Dutchman set up from Martin van Breems. So it must be the same as what they recommend using now.

Check this link:

https://www.sailnet.com/threads/autohelm-4000-wiring-question.253514/

As the boat is on the hard, I am using a short shore power adapter cord plugged into an extension cord.  The short cord is like new, no issues with it.  The red light  on the cord plug is lit up so I know there is voltage at the cord plug being provided to the boat.   I will remove the outlet and breaker to do more troubleshooting.

Although I have not finished troubleshooting, I think my shore power breaker (the one by the shore power cord outlet) needs replacement.
The lights on the breaker have not worked in the 15 years I have owned the boat, and now I need to fiddle around with the switch in order to get the green shore power light to illuminate on the main panel.

My question is what folks have used for a replacement.     

JD has this one:  https://pro.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=11354

and Catalina Direct has this one:  //https://www.catalinadirect.com/shop-by-boat/catalina-38/electrical/breakers-switches/electrical-panel-transom-master-breaker/?SearchResults=1

Thanks in advance

About 15 years ago, I bought my C34  in Clearwater Florida.  As I am located in RI, I flew down there to look at it
and 2 others before the sale , then went back down there when it was being surveyed, launched and sea trialed.   I went thru a broker to arrange for it to be shipped to RI.

Has anyone successfully used vinyl striping to re-do their boot stripes?   If so how difficult was it to apply , especially the wide blue striping.  And how has it held up?
I am looking for an alternative to repainting the stripes.

Thanks

I changed my plexiglass panels out with white formica , glued back to back to get the thickness, then eliminated the handles and just have finger holes.   Interior looks larger for sure.

Roland