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Messages - karista

#1
Main Message Board / Re: Microwave died
Yesterday at 09:19:48 AM
Quote from: Noah on Yesterday at 08:41:35 AMLooks like the PO lowered/rebuilt the portion of the shelf to make it fit—thus reducing ability to get in/out of dish storage area. A trade-off. See my OEM "analog" microwave's position below
Yes, it appears that the lower floor does not line up with the storage floor next to it. So it most likely was lowered so the Microwave would fit into that space. I ordered the Willz unit from Amazon that was posted by Dave earlier, however he has a MKII so not sure if space height is the same as in my MK1.25.
#2
Main Message Board / Re: Microwave died
March 25, 2024, 06:59:51 AM
Quote from: Jim Hardesty on March 25, 2024, 05:57:53 AM
QuoteMy 30 year built in Microwave finally bit the dust.

It would be nice to find one to match but if you can't as Noah suggested repair may be a good option.  I've repaired microwaves a few times, a surprising number were internal fuses that were easy to replace.  You do need to be very careful, electricity may be stored up in the unit (forget what it's called, maybe magnetron?). 
I suggest you look to the web, I usually find a number of helpful how-to videos on everything. Just takes some searching to get through the ones that are just trying to sell.
Hope that helps,
Jim

Also make sure you're getting power to the plug, unplug the microwave and plug it into an extension cord you  know has power.
Jim
Thanks for the reply, unfortunately the problem is the Touch pad CB. When pressing the buttons, there are no indicators on screen. So its not a typical failure ie fuses, magnatron etc. There are no repair parts available for this old GE unit.
#3
Main Message Board / Microwave died
March 24, 2024, 04:29:54 PM
My 30 year built in Microwave finally bit the dust. It was installed above the Icebox space which has  9.5" opening. I have been unable to find a replacement that would have a height of 9.5" or less. There are several very old posts where others have named units that fit, however the models are no longer available or their sizes have changed. Has anyone been able to find a Microwave recently that fits the 9.5" opening? If so, I would appreciate the name of the model!
#4
Main Message Board / Re: Input on New Sails
February 25, 2024, 07:31:02 AM
Quote from: Gulfsailor on February 25, 2024, 04:38:51 AMI need to replace the mainsail and have started looking at options / pricing.

The sail loft I used for our last boat in Pensacola wants $2900 for 8.5 Oz Dacron - full battened with two reefs.

National Sail has a standard Catalina 34 sail for about $1400. https://nationalsail.com/sails/catalina-sails/catalina-34-std-rig-sails/catalina-34-std-mainsail/

They said it would be about $600 extra to add the Dutchman (like our current sail) but I think that system negatively affects the sail shape when deployed so will probably just add Ladyjacks.

Any input on who is the go-to for reasonably priced cruising mainsails would be great!
Thanks in advance!
Rick

I Purchased a 150 Headsail from National Sails. I provided them the exact dimensions, spreader patch location, Sunbrella sun cover color and other specifics. I was very pleased with the quality/materials of the sail and would purchase from them again. The important consideration is that you need to provide them all the dimensions/details that you would require.
Instead of Lazy Jacks you may want to go with a Mack Pack which comes with Lazy Jacks.
#5
Quote from: Noah on September 30, 2023, 05:27:24 PM
Alex: Interesting? Why, have you had a bad experience with BoatUS/Geico? I have had them for eight years now and have had no issues, although I have never made a claim. So my "endorsement" is unsubstantiated. My coverage is for an agreed value of $40K (what it would fetch, not what I have in it):cry4` and geographic cruising area limited to coastal and offshore waters of US and Canada. I haven't inquired (yet) about a Mexico rider.  Policy includes all "standard" pollution coverage and $500k liability, with my yacht club/marina also listed as a named insured.  My premium did go up 15% this year, but still is only $640 per year. I do have a higher personal liability umbrella, through my homeowers insurer (a different company).

Noah, like you I have had BoatUS/Geico insurance for 30 years, never a claim, however I just received my renewal and they dropped my Agreed Value to $20,400, so be prepared for a shock when you get your renewal as our boats are the same age. I will contact them next week and see whether they agree to raise the agreed insured value back up. If not I will cancel Geico and go with Progressive that provided me a quote for a $35,000 agreed value. J.D. Power Blue Book value is $37,050 Low retail, $41950 high retail, so I have no idea how Geico came up with a $20,400 agreed value number.
#6
Ron, you are correct! When I replaced my shift handle to the Edson SST Handle, it indeed hit the pedestal and would not allow the transmission to be shifted to forward. I solved this problem by adjusting the cable AT the transmission lever until the Edson SST Handle no longer hit the Pedestal and transmission was engaged in forward.
I also had a issue with replacing the Throttle handle with the Edson SST handle, it too hit the Pedestal Guard, elected then to just keep using the original red handle and keep the Edson as a spare.
#7
Quote from: KWKloeber on July 21, 2023, 07:17:06 PM
Quote from: karista on July 20, 2023, 07:21:25 AM

....bottom cleaned. I then applied several coats of Micron CS ablative paint 


@karista

I'm interested in the process you used.  You say "cleaned" then CS over the VC.   Are you saying it was blasted?

My 30 was the Commodore's at Youngstown YC and after I moved it to L Erie I took his ablative down to the hull (which it turns out much of the gelcoat had been ground (I ass/u/me many blisters repaired?) 
I faired spots needing it, sprayed 6 coats of VC Tar (popular in the '90s) -- then VC17.  After moving off Lake Erie I'd like to go to something different but have always heard that more is needed than just "cleaning" the VC-17.   What was the barrier you covered over with the CS?


@melp64

If I was still on Lake Erie I would not want to change from my VC17.  Being on the hard annually, it is was a snap to clean the bottom, recoat, and it's dry in 15 minutes.  I  looked at it like normal spring duties.

I used to put multiple coats on the wear surfaces like the bow, and leading edges of the keel and rudder.

For warm water / saltwater locations, or expecting to move there at some point, I'd never use it.

Ken, the boat originally had 3 coats VC Tar Barrier Coat on the hull and then 2 coats of VC17 were applied yearly while on Lake Ontario (Rochester NY).
After moving it to Deale MD on the upper Chesapeake the VC17 simply did not work and a thick Moss like growth covered the entire hull. The yard had a difficult time removing it, but using scrappers and pressure washer they finally got the hull clean, afterwards I simply used a palm sander and removed the VC17 which was not difficult but left the VC Tar barrier coat, then applied the Micron CSC ablative paint which held up just fine for many years, in retrospect since moving the boat to the hot salt waters of the gulf I wished that I had used the hard Trinidad paint instead of the ablative as we use divers monthly to clean the bottom and if not careful the divers can easily remove more of the ablative paint then needed. I found out that the hard paint can not be applied on top of the ablative so this would require removing all the ablative first and that is very expensive. The cost here in St Petersburg, FL to have a yard simply do a bottom job applying 2 coats of paint is close to $4000.
#8
Quote from: melp64 on July 19, 2023, 04:58:11 PM
When I complete my refit I really want to do the loop but as I have been told a lot of people get down to the keys sometime just decide to go to the Bahamas and not return. I hear conflicting opinions some say that vc17 is strictly for freshwater. As I am reading now some say they use it in salt water.
I am thinking that with the possibility of going to salt water I am going to use a barrier coat primer and then a good bottom paint that will last a few seasons. As I have been looking at bottom paints some say they have to be repainted every season and some say will last for many seasons. I like the idea of many seasons.

I moved my boat from Lake Ontario where I always used VC17 to Deale MD on the Chesapeake. Applied a fresh coat of VC17 before the move as I liked it. After 6 months in brackish Chesapeake waters the entire hull was coated with a moss like coating, boat had to be pulled out and bottom cleaned. I then applied several coats of Micron CS ablative paint  VC17 will never work for you in warm salt water it didn't even work in brackish water.  Since moving the boat to the Florida's Gulf Coast I have used the Seahawk BIOCOP ablative which is very expensive but lasts longer than the Micron CS paint.
#9
Quote from: Baysider on June 23, 2023, 06:22:44 PM
Thanks again for everyone's input and insight regarding my questions.  Here's my update:

I used a right angle ratchet screwdriver and was able to very slowly get the four screws out.  Not an easy task when you can't actually see the screws, they've been in for 33 years, and it's hard to get your arm through the only opening.  I was concerned about the comments pertaining to puncturing the water tank as I had previously removed and replaced the screws accessible from inside the berth last year but found that all of them screwed into the surrounding structure and none were close to the tank.

What scgunner said about water collecting on the fiberglass base under the water tank and running into the cabin from the port side when on a port tack was spot-on as was the idea of leaking scuppers.  I found that in the process of blasting the aft tank's vent with water pressure (I put a 1" hose around the aft tank's vent and connected the other side of the tube to a garden hose) it cleared the vent tube but shot a lot of water around the cockpit.  When I went below I saw that the starboard scupper hose was wet.  The next time I'm at the marina I'll have to find out if the hose connection is bad or if there is a leak in the drain fitting.  I'm hoping it's the former.

If you have to replace the scupper hoses as I did a few years ago then you should seek a very short and skinny helper to do this. With the Sugar Scoop Transom its extremely difficult to get access to these hoses. Both of mine developed cracks and leaked. My hull is 1012 so if yours have not been replaced I would suspect they are cracked and leaking.
#10
Main Message Board / Re: Dinghy Warranty
May 06, 2023, 08:16:38 AM
Good luck in your search! Had a Zodiac Fastroller Dinghy, the entire transom separated from the tubes after 3 years while still under warranty which was not honered and useless. Then bought a Mercury Hypalon RIB with a 10 year fabric warranty, the fabric was white and after 2 years it developed gray patches on both tubes. The selling dealer turned this over to Mercury only to be told that discoloration is not warranted.
So, the warranties I had from Zodiac and Mercury were useless.
#11
Would you please send me a price list and pictures if possible. I am close and can pick up items.
bwmueller266@gmail.com
#12
Main Message Board / Re: Broken heat exchanger zinc
October 26, 2022, 07:39:53 AM
Quote from: Ron Hill on October 25, 2022, 03:13:10 PM
TVORG : Another source of HX parts is Glen Mar Marine  Tel 954-973-1260

A thought
Ron, FYI, Glen Mar Marine has been whole-sale only for several years. They were sold several years ago!
#13
Quote from: Ron Hill on October 24, 2022, 02:16:29 PM
Guys : Does anyone know how the factory installed that genoa toe rail??  I'm not too sure if it is thru bolted or not?  Maybe a call down to Warren Tandy in Florida might help?  @ (727) 544- 6681.

A thought

Ron, I am the original owner and the boat came with the outside optional genoa toe rail. The toe rail is thru bolted with washers and nuts on the inside!
#14
Main Message Board / Re: Leaking dog
August 30, 2022, 06:20:16 AM
Quote from: Ron Hill on August 26, 2022, 01:26:15 PM
Paul : As Jon said "take it apart and replace the 'O' ring" !!! 

It's probably the same 'O' ring (metric!!) that Lewmar installed just before 1989 (over 33 years ago!!)  :shock:

A thought

Ron, would you know the O ring size? I have a leak there and the O-ring was totally flat so could not measure its size. I know they are a  Metric size. CD has a rebuild kit for this dog but it is basically is only a collection of various O ring sizes for different Lewmar dogs.
#15
Main Message Board / Re: Engine overheating
June 30, 2022, 08:44:39 AM
Had the same problem about one year ago, ran fine and cool at lower RPM's but quickly went up over 2200RPM. Did this consistently. Checked all the obvious such as belt tension, hoses, Impeller etc. The final fix was removing the HX and cleaning it out, let it sit overnight in a bucket filled (per Ron's suggestion) in Lime away mix. Then flushed it clean installed it and no more over heating, running a consistent 160 degrees.
I don't believe you can adequately clean the HX by only removing the end caps, most of the little Small holes in the inside flanges were closed up.