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I have two questions for Noah and SCGunner since their hulls are just a few numbers from mine (I've noticed comments regarding structural differences from my c34 in boats of different vintages).  I have the thought stuck in my head that I read somewhere that the fittings on the intake and output ends of the scupper hose are slightly different diameters.  I know that makes no sense, but can you confirm what is the case?

Also, my electric bilge pump hose just lies on the hull and runs to the bilge through the area accessed by the door in the head.  If yours is looped, where is the loop attached to?

Thanks again.

Thanks guys for the advice.  Everyone is always so helpful.  I appreciate that.

Yes Noah, the barb looks like it's at a bit of an angle which is very troubling to me, but so far I'm not seeing and leakage.  I assume it's a fitting that screws into the tank?  It was hard to tell with the tank in place.

Noah suggested I check the bilge pump hoses as well, which is a great Idea.  I'll be checking everything that lies behind the water tank.... just in case.  I have regular 120 style sump pump hoses and they attach next to the scupper hoses.  Was that standard?  What type of hoses do you all have on the sump pumps?  Thanks again.

I'm finally getting ready to replace my scupper hoses and have read lots of posts on this site regarding them.  I have a '90 C34 and it seems my hoses, which are brittle, are overkill for the situation.  They're heavy black hoses which I believe are OEM.  An associate at West Marine suggested that sump pump hose like Shields 120 or 141 would be appropriate.  By comparison to what I have that seemed odd until I realized that the submersible and hand pumps use that type and exit the stern right next to the scupper hoses. 

So is the reason for the hose overkill the apparent size differential in the scupper drain fitting and the through-hull?

Hi Noah

Are there any tricks as far as wiggling the aft water tank past the cable and wires (I have multiple fairly loose wires) aside from disconnecting them? 

Thanks everyone.  I'll be heading north to Champlain tomorrow AM and hope the installation goes well.  I appreciate all of the advice.

So I had drenched all of the fittings above the hatch level and saw no resulting leakage.  Are there any others that I hadn't mentioned in my post?

Thanks everyone for your input. 

Ron: The pump which is currently installed but inoperable is indeed a diaphragm pump so it's OEM and somewhere in the past 34 years it seized.  I guess they don't last forever.  I'm just hoping my new PAR will last a good long time.  I'll use epoxy to attach a new chunk of wood as you and KW suggest.  What would you suggest to clean the hull surface?

I've seen a few older posts about brown water dripping in the head but no resolution as to what might have caused the issue, so I'm starting a new brown water post.

This spring we had a lot of rain and I found that dark brown water had dripped from the outside edges of my head's hatch.  The hatch itself is not leaking.  When I put up our dodger I noticed a significant reduction in the amount brown dripping (there seemed to be no let-up in the amount of rain and I'm told it often has hit with hard winds coming from the direction of the bow) but it still happened.  I ran water around the base of the hatch for about 20 minutes... no leak.  I did the same thing, one at a time, around the platforms the winch, the rope clutch and the traveler sit on. Nothing again.  I ran water directly on top of those and nothing.  Finally, I ran water in the track the companionway cover slides in.  Nothing.  There are no other openings higher than the hatch and am at a loss as to where the water is entering. I'm considering the idea that, with large amounts in the track for possibly hours during storms there could be a leak there. Does anyone have experience with this situation?

Thanks everyone.

I'm getting to a number of projects and will be opening a few topics, but here's the first.  I'm replacing a very heavy shower sump pump that hasn't worked since I bought my 34. It's likely original to the boat and looks nothing like the Jabsco PARs that are used now. It's screwed on to a chunk of wood which is not attached/glued to anything.  It's in the small compartment with the thru hulls behind the head sink.  My guess is that the wood block was once glued to the hull.  I have a Jabsco PAR, with strainer, and would like to know how the pump is attached in other 34s.  If it's screwed to a board what kind of glue would be used to attach to the hull?  Thanks so much.

I found it Jim. Thanks.

Thank you all for your comments and help.  The marina staff does a good job of setting and adjusting the boat on its cradle but I'll be at the marina in a few days and will check the pads.  Ron, are you saying that the pads should be under the bulkheads?  That sounds right in terms of distributing forces, but I'm not sure the cradle was built to that standard.  Once again, I'll check.  I'll post some pictures.

I went to visit my 1990 C34, which has been on its cradle for about a month, and discovered something concerning.  The sliding cover didn't slide smoothly.  On closer inspection, the cover was touching the deck above it midway port to starboard. So either the curve of the cover increased, or the curve of the deck became flatter.  I'm guessing it's the latter. I know the function of the side supports is to maintain side to side balance and not to support weight, but is it possible they were left so loose that the hull sagged?  This is the only explanation I can come up with and I want to correct the situation ASAP.  Thanks all for your advice.

Thanks Ron.  That was one of my initial thoughts but I have been unable to locate any.  Nothing is, of course, easy.