Messages

My question is how can I get the push button fuse/breaker for the hot water heater to pop out (off position).  All power is disconnected on our boat as we're in the process of selling it.  I was showing the prospective buyer how the button works.  It was popped out and I pushed it in, thinking I could just push it again and it would spring pop out.  But not happening. Surveyor wants shore power electricity tomorrow and I need the hot water heater to be off so it doesn't burn out without water.  Does it somehow need power to pop out? Do I need to access the back of the panel to fix this?  Or am I missing something? Thanks,k Kerk

Oops.  I see that the elliptical for the wing keel only comes in 48" trailing edge (of course).  Kerk

Our yard is ordering a new elliptical rudder from Ruddercraft. We have a 1990 open transom wing keel. 
Is there a preference between the HDPE or Fiberglass.  Does it really make a difference?
I notice that there's a choice of a 48" or 58" trailing edge.  Preference?
Thanks

Hi, we're just putting together a listing  and saw your request.  If you're still looking let us know.  Kerk

Thank you all for your info on lazy jacks.   I'm going for it and want to do a last double checking and tweaking. 

I"ll be doing 4 legs, retractible to mast. Rings
       First Leg . 2 1/2 to 3 ft from mast?  What's too far so sail flops? What's too close so hard to flake?
       Last leg.  2-3 from boom end.  What's best so no sail flopping?
       middle two.  Split the distance or one closer to first to deal with sail bulk?

Cheek Blocks on Mast.  Most literature says approx 70% up mast. Under spreader seems low to catch sail. Is this a concern?
              Chaffing issue while retracting. important???

Thanks for your responses. Yes, Steve, I"d love some measurements.  Any other people with measurements would be welcome.  It looks as if (from your picture, Noah--and I can't tell if you have 3 or 4 legs) the thought is that the first leg would be about 4 feet from the mast which seems far to me--but maybe it's not?  And where are the blocks on the mast?  I plan on cheek blocks and line running down to cleats so I can loosen and stow the LJ against the mast and along the boom. Ron and Steve, I've been familiar with and intrigued by Ron's clever LJ rig but think I"ll go more traditional. Any otherLJ owners to chime in with measurements and 3 vs 4 legs, blocks vs thimbles or rings?  Thanks for all your help.  Steve, I'm envious that you can easily say that your going to your boat tomorrow.  I wish I were closer...

After checking into all the boxed options (and looked at the posts), and living so far from our boat, I've decided to have the yard put together DIY lazy jacks. We have a new full battened loose footed main, and want to use our existing sailcover without modifications. What EXACT measurements/choices have really worked?
1. height of cheek blocks on mast (above or below spreaders?)
2. Are 3 legs enough? Is 4 overkill?
3. Measurement of legs from the mast along the boom
4. Blocks vs thimbles or rings?
5. Any other pertinent info that would be useful

Thanks! Kerk

Thanks! Kerk

What is the length of the boom on our 1990 Standard Rig?  I'm 600 miles away from our boat and I"m exploring lazy jacks so am collecting what be any pertinent info.  Thanks, Kerk

For our new main sail made by Quantum sails I have an option of a "Loose foot with additional loose round" or traditional with foot in the boom track.  They say that most of the sails they're making now are loose foot.  What are your thoughts?  1990 reg rig.  Thanks, Kerk  And thanks for the thoughts on full or partial battens--I'm going with full.  Kerk

For my 1990 Standard Rig I'm finally replacing the original full battened mainsail! Amazed it's lasted this long.  So now I have a choice to go full battened or partial battened.  This is all new to me.  What is the benefit/drawback of either way and what are most of us going with now?  We don't race but have been cruising for 29 years.  If and when we sell our boat (maybe to someone who races?) which way is best for resale? Or does it matter?  Thanks! Kerk

From a previous owner we have the wood dining table, cushion, pedestal, and flange that the pedestal sits in. Should we have an additional part that connects the table to the mast for stabilization?  The pedestal is loose in the flange. If such a part exists is it able to be purchased? Thanks kerk. Into the mystic 1990, 1102

I need to replace the fuel bleeder needle valve on my Universal M35 as the rotary thumb dial broke off. Does anyone know the part # and where I could purchase it?  Thanks, Kerk

I'll look into seafront and an easier way to extricate the fridge/freezer box. Although ideally I'd like to keep the box. Is that possible??  I've bypassed the thermostat and fan still cycles on off on off quickly with a beep in between. What does that mean?  And no action from the condenser. Still exploring.

I've been reading through the old threads but want to make sure of one thing. If I assess that I need a new system and want to keep the existing fridge/freezer box (so as not to dismantle the counter top)  is my only choice the Dometic cu-100 and vd150, etc. thanks, kerk