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Buy what you can today and hopefully Interlux will have a compatible product available sometime in the next couple of years. otherwise there will be a lot of Great Lakes sailors facing expensive bottom stripping jobs!

I decided to inspect mine two seasons ago and it was a good thing I did. First discovery was that the rubber seal on the vertical drive shaft at the clutch was mostly disintegrated. Further inspection revealed no oil in the gearbox and evidence of it having leaked out. The culprit was the shaft seal on the input shaft. I was able to source the parts from Defender.

I installed one of these systems as soon as I bought my C34MkII (tall). Also a stack pack system. Dousing the sail is so easy. Point into the wind and release the halyard and let it run. Just about every time 95% of the the sail ends up in the stack pack. I also jump the sail at the mast when raising. I can usually get it almost to the top at which time I cleat it in a cam cleat on the mast and return to the cockpit to  finish raising it with the halyard winch. As soon as you start to tension the halyard, it pops out of the mast cleat and you finish adjusting the luff tension.

Really pleased with it after three years of use.

I had this problem and it was caused by poor contact in the range selector adjustment on the back of the tach. Fixed it by repeatedly turning the selector between settings (note where you started - I think they are identified with letters). This seemed to clean the contacts in the switch and it has been working great for two years.

I endorse the fix described above regarding disassembly and cleaning the tension rollers and applying a very light lubrication to the bushing go the roller cams. I used a drop of silicone lube applied with a toothpick. Its been working fine for two seasons but will probably have to be re-done soon. Make sure you have the correct side down when you open up the belt drive! You can get the disassembly instruction from the ray marine web site.

I have had several break during the two years I have owned my 2006 MkII. I live in Canada and was able to source replacements from Southco.com and ordered from a local distributor for slightly less than Catalina Direct. The versions in use on my year of boat had a black plastic internal cam that operates the latch. That is what fails where it is screwed to the knob. The new ones are a white plastic material that is beefed up and supposedly a stronger plastic. The 3D printed parts showed here certainly look very robust and should work well. I have also tried a repair of the black plastic cam by filling the recessed screw hole with epoxy and redrilling the hole for the screw and installing a linger screw. So far that repair seems to hold up.

Les: I changed out the damper plate on my 2006 MKII M35B a year ago. The original was too stiff and caused a rattle sound at low RPM. I ordered a new one from https://www.pyiinc.com/damper-plates.html. Miles at PYI recommended the R&D model 22AM4 which has more deflection and absorbed the irregular rotation speed of the engine at low RPM. (The flywheel on this engine is a bit too light). Cost was $239.00 US.

If you want the original stiffer one I removed, it's yours for the cost of shipping. It is in perfect shape it is a R&D model 22B4. I'm in Niagara-on-the-Lake Ontario.

I removed the bell housing to get at the damper plate.

jim.schacht@gmail.com

Moved my MkII wing keel cradle from Toronto to Niagara in a large double axle U-Haul trailer. It fit length wise in the box and rested diagonally with one side on the bottom of the box and one side on the side rail. $35 for the trailer rental for the day. You need some sort of material handling equipment (forklift or boom truck) to load/offload.

I have the EV-100 installed on my 2006 MKII and it is on a separate breaker on the panel. I'm installing a Balmar battery monitor in the panel this weekend and will have everything exposed so will try to help you out with some pictures from my boat. The install was done professionally before I bought the boat. I'll try to get something posted this weekend.

I had a similar leak on my mkII. The source was the binnacle guard which had been removed by the PO or contractor to install a new autohelm display and not properly re-sealed. I was able to loosen the foot brackets and get enough movement to apply a bead of butyl tape around the flanges and re-tighten. I'm hoping this does the trick. The boat is currently under its winter cover so I will have to wait until spring to see if the leak has stopped. Didn't really notice the leak until I removed the bimini canvas and we had some rain prior to fall lift out.

Saw this listing in the Canadian Sailboat Swap Shop group on Facebook. Sorry, know nothing more than what is posted but lots of parts available. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1336592046725868

The strut pro works great! Changed my cutlass beating in 40 minutes first time using the tool. The next time, I changed my friend's bearing in 30 minutes. I have one but it is in Canada and I don't want to ship it.

Find a friend with a proper multimeter and knows how to use it and start looking for a bad connection in your DC system. Download and print out the wiring diagram for your boat to give him/her a roadmap to troubleshoot the problem. if your batteries are at 14 volts without the charger on, the problem probably doesn't lie there.

You have confirmed my line of thinking. Really don't want to goop a bunch of caulk externally. That's what the PO did after having to dismantle to install a new auto helm 4000+.

After washing down the boat in preparation to putting the winter cover on, I discovered the aft cabin mattress was wet. I removed the cover below the pedestal and found evidence of some past leakage and verified it by pouring water around the feet for the pedestal guard. Obviously I need to re-seal these. The four screws on each base are not through bolted so I assume they are screwed into wood core or maybe an embedded aluminum plate???? I am hoping to just remove the four screws for each base and get enough room to work some butyl tape into the joint and re-install without having to loosen up the bolts for the pedestal. Anyone out there had success with this technique?