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Messages - ewengstrom

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1
Main Message Board / Re: Changing lens and gasket
« on: December 03, 2021, 12:37:17 PM »
Removing seized stainless screws from aluminum......ouch :cry4`
Heat is one of the best remedies for this problem......coupled with a good penetrating oil it can work wonders.
I would suggest if using a heat gun that you don't really need to get the metal white hot.....apply the heat, let it work to expand the metal some and perhaps do it a few times before applying a screwdriver to the screw.
When faced with a particularly tough screw I'll often use an impact screw driver to help with the leverage needed to break the screw free. You don't have to hit that impact screw driver with a sledge hammer either, a firm "tap" will often do the trick.
Best of luck and keep us posted!!!

2
Main Message Board / Re: Water Damaged Interior Teak - How to restore?
« on: November 29, 2021, 12:29:27 PM »
Hey "G", welcome and congratulations on the new purchase.
From what i've been able to gather in the two years we've owned Ohana and a few decades of owning other boats including Catalina's, I'm pretty sure that Catalina used Teak Oil (originally) on our era vessels.
Given that over three decades have passed since they were new it would be hard to guarantee that's what you're looking at in late 2021.......but your pictures do sorta look like our boat did when we purchased her so I'll go with that.
I spent the winter of 2019-2020 refinishing the entire interior of our C34. I used a teak cleaner/brightener to remove as much of the original finish (whatever it was) to take the teak back to bare wood. This left a "film" on the wood that required mild sanding with 220 to remove but the teak was then quite clean and the resulting refinish is outstanding (IMHO).
Others might have had success "blending" the old finish with a newly applied finish and that may suffice, but those water stains were pretty "deep" on Ohana too and I wasn't satisfied with less than a complete stripping and refinishing.
We did use Minwax Spar Varnish (satin) on our boat, my wife loves the look and it keeps her happy....I've found it holds up for many years and is pretty repairable for the inevitable ding that occurs.
On the floor I used Minwax Spar Urethane (satin) and it's held up well on the Catalina so far. I used this on my last boat and didn't have to strip it for 14 years. I did sand and add another coat about every three years on that boat but that was due to scuffs, not failure.  I'm a pretty big fan of Minwax products for interior wood on a boat, it's worked well for us.

3
Main Message Board / Re: Cockpit Teak
« on: November 20, 2021, 02:54:50 PM »
Too many pics...or too large.  :abd:
These are from today.....boat winterized....Owner depressed.  :cry4`

4
Main Message Board / Re: Cockpit Teak
« on: November 20, 2021, 02:49:43 PM »
Yes, I've removed, stripped and refinished almost all of the exterior teak, the only pieces that didn't come off were the coaming compartment trim rings. They were sanded and refinished in place. Here's some shots taken as I removed everything and then the last ones were shot today.

5
Main Message Board / Re: lazy jack measurements
« on: November 20, 2021, 06:31:38 AM »
Here's our setup on Ohana. I built the sail pack this past winter and used the lazy jack system already installed on the boat as attachment points. (We LOVE this setup)
Originally the LJ attached to four eyes evenly spaced under the boom. There are two turning blocks on either side of the mast just under the spreaders. Both ends terminate at cleats on the mast just forward of the boom and were/are adjustable. Four stainless rings are used as turning points for the two lower lines and I feel they are adequate.
The instructions for the sail pack state that the turning blocks should be attached approximately 2/3 of the distance between the boom and the top of the mast.....but the spreaders we have on our 34's are quite wide and would cause chafe as the line passes them....therefore the only systems I've seen so far attach to the mast below the spreaders, not above them.....anywhere below the spreaders is well below the recommended 2/3 distance noted above.....if anyone has a nifty fix for this, I'm all ears!!!!
Before I built the sail pack we would lower the sail, flake and tie it off and then lower the lazy jacks and run them along the boom so the sail bag would fit well.....if you just slap the bag on without lowering the LJ or modifying the cover....the results can be seen in the photos I've attached.

6
Main Message Board / Re: Cockpit Teak
« on: November 18, 2021, 06:47:18 AM »
I don't have any current pics of the finished exterior teak, not anything in detail anyway...... (I'll get some this Saturday when I go down to de-commission the boat for the winter.... :cry4`
I agree that the sill piece is a bit of a hack job when viewed from the bottom...there were some BIG gaps on the underside at the ends so the fact that the original sealant didn't seal is no mystery to me.
I did fill this entire area with caulk and as I stated earlier and the leak is gone. I know there may be better caulks out there than Polyurethane, but my reasoning is that I also wanted to be able to pull this piece again should the leak reappear years down the road.

7
Main Message Board / Re: Cockpit Teak
« on: November 17, 2021, 08:38:08 AM »
I've been following this post with interest since I did this same work in July 2020. I feel it's a good time to weigh in because I was able to solve a problem I think several C34's suffer. After we purchased Ohana I noticed evidence of a leak on top of the aft port side of the engine compartment cover, right in the corner. I tried several ideas...but that area always seemed to get wet after it rained.
When I removed that piece of teak on the sill the problem became quite clear.....there was little to no sealant under the sill.....the sill is just flat enough that water can collect there and migrate down the unsealed edges and it would end up soaking the engine compartment cover and the surrounding areas.
My solution was to finish the underside of the teak, tape off the area completely and bed the sill in a healthy amount of black polyurethane caulk. I removed the excess caulk that squeezed out and continued on with refinishing the faces of the teak.
That area has been bone dry for well over a year now and I'm happy with the results.
Below are pics of the sill area when I'd removed the teak.....it was PACKED with dirt and debris which obviously didn't help the situation.
I've noticed other Catalina's (not just 34's) that put tarps or other specialized covers over the hatch areas and I wonder if it's to keep water out of the boat.....
This solution was actually pretty simple and I hope it helps others.

8
Andy,
It definitely looks to me as if your boat has had that upgrade installed, that single acorn nut on the coach roof (starboard side) between the vent and the four acorn nuts for the rope clutches is the proof. Viewed from the outside of the boat you cannot tell since the long screw is one of the screws in the track....don't remember which screw though..... :cry4`

Depending on when it was last done I know it's a good idea to re-bed the traveler track periodically. Last year after a rainy day I came down to the boat and found evidence of a dried puddle of water on the galley floor that could only have come from the thru bolt...it never leaked before...not a drop. I tightened all the screws at that time and I didn't get the leak again. When I upgraded the traveler system itself last winter I pulled the whole track and re-bedded it in butyl and am quite sure it won't leak again. Definitely a good (and small) off season project.

Oh, and welcome to the group and keep us posted on your progress as you learn all about your "new" C34!!!! You absolutely picked a great boat and you're going to get to love it as you get to know it.

9
Main Message Board / Re: Wooden Sole Refinishing
« on: October 12, 2021, 03:12:35 AM »
I've used Minwax Polyurethane on two different boats for over 16 years. I did three coats to start with and every few years depending on wear I'll freshen it up with a new coat, just sand it with 220 and apply a new coat. 
My first boat had 3/4" thick teak and holly floors so they were not removable, for the Catalina I did seal both sides for moisture protection, so far we're at two years and going strong on our 34.

10
Main Message Board / Re: Installing Raymarine wind instruments
« on: October 08, 2021, 11:52:01 AM »
Logo, I've heard mixed reviews about the wireless units, but yours is a good endorsement. Might I inquire as to who's instruments you currently have installed? I've got a relatively new B&G GPS and this thing is just great to work with. Since I don't have any wind instrument currently installed I'd given thought to the B&G wireless unit.
Just interested in who's unit your using sir.
Thanks!!!!

11
Main Message Board / Re: Sheared Motor Mount Bolt
« on: August 24, 2021, 10:09:12 AM »
Excellent solution Kevin, I just happened to be popping the motor out for some pretty serious maintenance so I had clear access to get serious about that broken bolt. "
I'd forgotten that I too had to remove the bracket from the motor since it too was frozen solid. All the others came off without a hitch but that one just had to be cut off of the bracket with a 4" grinder.

12
Main Message Board / Re: In Boom furling and WinchRite
« on: August 13, 2021, 12:30:14 PM »
Noah's mod came up in an earlier thread and since I just happened to have an extra jamb cleat, I copied it!!!
I'm very, very happy with this seemingly minor modification, it's a snap to raise the main and the cleat also helps when reefing.  :clap

13
Main Message Board / Re: Replacing all the Sanitary hoses
« on: August 09, 2021, 04:17:10 AM »
Hopefully your macerator still works as the hardest hose may be the most obvious, the hose from the tank to the macerator. As has been said before, you'll want to thoroughly flush the whole system, for me that was no less than three times. If your macerator pump works I'd suggest running it after the last flush as that will help clear the line of stuff you really...and I mean REALLY don't want to see. Pumping the holding tank out thru the deck fitting will not clear this particular hose.
Either way I would also suggest lining the area below the macerator hose with plastic and wear long gloves at a minimum. Our macerator was completely rotted and non functional when we bought the boat and one of the first chores was to replace all the sanitary hoses. We had to cut the line between the macerator and holding tank and it simply wasn't a pleasant experience.
This job will take a few hours and having done it I feel comfortable saying the whole thing can be done in a day....but don't hurry....this is one job were if you say "oooops"....you'll probably clear the boat out instantly and possibly everyone else within a 50 foot radius.

14
Main Message Board / Re: Sheared Motor Mount Bolt
« on: July 29, 2021, 04:26:45 AM »
The difference did not require any new holes to be drilled (or moved). It was VERY slight and many others have made the switch to these mounts with no problems. I'm quite sure I got the size and type from other posts on this forum too....I definitely didn't reinvent the wheel.
I also have no clue as to why these bolts break, they are set into a wood base so I'd suspect that if you over tighten them they would simply strip out the hole, I'm leaning more toward the conclusion that they are old, they've vibrated (sometimes violently) for many years and the constant cycling just wore them out. In the end I did replace all the bolts, not just the broken bolt.

15
Main Message Board / Re: Sheared Motor Mount Bolt
« on: July 28, 2021, 08:23:43 AM »
Found this pic I took when I finally removed the broken bolt. I believe it was originally 4" when it was in one piece.
I'm not exactly sure of the recommended replacement interval of our motor mounts but if they are original, it's probably time.
I went with Vetus K 75 mounts all the way around and have been very happy with them. The vibration transmitted thru the engine beds has been much reduced.

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