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Messages - TortolaTim

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1
Main Message Board / Re: How do I remove the oil pressure switch?
« on: Yesterday at 04:03:56 PM »
Ken, before I replaced the switch (single terminal) I bypassed it by grounding the alarm itself to my panel ground. It went off. I also cleaned all the terminals and checked voltage at the panel. Ops check good. Checked continuity from the ring terminal that screws into the switch to the wire at the panel. Checked good as well. After replacing the oil press switch, alarm worked. Went out the next day and it didnít work. Ran the engine today for a few minutes, when I shut it off, the alarm worked again. The ONLY other thing I can come up with is that the voltage to the alarm tested at 11.5-11.6V. Is that enough of a drop to make the alarm only work intermittently? Voltage at the key switch itself was 12. I ordered a new alarm. Iím going to install it, AND wire the alarm pos directly to the key switch. Right now it is daisy chained to one of the gauges.

2
Main Message Board / Re: How do I remove the oil pressure switch?
« on: Yesterday at 12:04:22 PM »
Tom, my alarm had been inop since I bought the boat 2.5 years ago. The switch wasn't leaking, it was just the next logical step in my troubleshooting. Well, the alarm worked a few days ago when I installed the new switch. Yesterday I went out sailing...and voila! No alarm! The warning lights continued to work, but that's it. I went back today, took the panel out and did some voltage testing, everything is fine. I tried to short the switch and it wouldn't work. 20 minutes later when I started the engine....it worked again! I came home today and ordered a new alarm. I checked literally everything else, so I'm out of ideas. I'm not sure how the thing could work one day and not work the next!

3
Main Message Board / Re: How do I remove the oil pressure switch?
« on: January 24, 2022, 05:30:09 AM »
I have a post script for the OP's question. I replaced my oil pressure switch yesterday. I used a 1/2' drive 11/16 short socket => 1/2 to 3/8 adapter => short 3/8 drive extension to a 3/8 ratchet. I reached it from the little access door in the lav. Very easy, took about 10 minutes. I got the switch at a kubota dealer, $25 bucks. Westerbeke wanted $50! My alarm hadn't been working since I bought the boat, finally got around to really troubleshooting it. It was the switch. Working like a charm now. Thanks to all who post all the great knowledge here! I'll eventually add the gauge as discussed above, but I really wanted the alarm working properly for the time being.

4
Main Message Board / Re: How do I remove the oil pressure switch?
« on: December 04, 2021, 01:57:19 PM »
Ken, yeah I was wondering about that hose. I looked it up on WB's website and it's 70 bucks, just for the hose! Add in the other bits and I think one is in for a couple hundred, easy. I wonder if some hi temp fuel line attached to a barb on either end would be sufficient. Then, of course the length would be customizable. Any thoughts?

5
Main Message Board / Re: How do I remove the oil pressure switch?
« on: November 28, 2021, 05:24:34 AM »
Ron, yes I meant voltmeter;-)
Noah, I do have the engine temp alarm installed
Ken, thanks for the info. I will definitely start running down those parts.

6
Main Message Board / Re: How do I remove the oil pressure switch?
« on: November 25, 2021, 04:42:49 AM »
On the subject of oil pressure switches, has anyone "Tee'd" the switch and added an oil press gauge? I was thinking of replacing the ammeter gauge with one. Suggestions on parts/ sizes, etc?

7
Main Message Board / Mast Cleat
« on: November 23, 2021, 01:02:54 PM »
Do any of you guys have your genoa halyard cleated off on the mast? I'm thinking of doing it to free up a clutch on the cabin top for 2-line reefing. I was doing some reading on cruisers forum and a bunch of them were talking about riveting a small plate of aluminum to the mast to thicken the amount of aluminum that the machine screws "bite" thus securing the cleat more effectively. One even suggested "through-bolting" I think this sounds like complete overkill, but am I missing something here? Seems to me that based on the direction of force from a cleated halyard would be relatively low and 2 high quality stainless machine screws would be sufficient, but I'm just a pilot, not an engineer.  :D

8
Main Message Board / Re: Replacing standing rigging
« on: September 26, 2021, 08:51:52 AM »
I agree with wingman on replacing the stemhead fitting as well. HOWEVER, I'd go with Garhauer and not CD. CD gets them from Garhauer and doubles the price before selling it to you. They quoted me a 3 month wait as well. I called Garhauer and had a new one 2 weeks after sending them mine as a template. I highly recommend using them. They are awesome.

9
Main Message Board / Re: Replacing standing rigging
« on: September 25, 2021, 10:19:29 AM »
I replaced mine last fall. 1989 boat, mast was down. Total cost was $7800, including $2000 for a new furler (mine was obsolete and no parts were available), and $560 for an entire spool of line to replace all the halyards. I still have a bunch left over. Replaced everything except chain plates. I removed them, polished and inspected, and re-fitted. I hired a professional rigger in NE Florida to fabricate all of the new rigging and install everything. (I did assist-went up the mast, etc.) He called me later and offered me a job! LOL!
Anyway, it wasn't cheap, but I'm glad I did it. I relocated the boat from Michigan to Florida, and while everything was apart decided to do the job. I want to know what I have onboard since I'll be sailing in the ocean now.

10
Main Message Board / Re: Recent hot running of M-25xp
« on: September 09, 2021, 02:57:36 PM »
Speaking of thermostats...what's the consensus on replacement interval? I don't see it anywhere in the engine manual

11
Main Message Board / Re: Throttle Speed Adjustment
« on: August 24, 2021, 12:36:35 PM »
Update on the RPM discrepancy. We took the boat out and compared laser tach with cockpit. Most RPM settings only varied by a 50 or less, full throttle (obtained by me moving the throttle on the engine) was 3000. Looks like I just need to adjust the cable so the throttle on the binnacle can move the lever (engine)  all the way to open. Looks like all is well. Thanks for the info! Now on to the next project!

12
Main Message Board / Re: Throttle Speed Adjustment
« on: August 13, 2021, 10:42:09 AM »
Ron, yes Iím going to compare tach RPM Vs Laser tach next week when I get home. Just ordered one from Amazon. My concern is more about whether Iíve been actually making the published 3000-3200
at WOT. Itís always shown about 25 or 26 on the factory tach.
Iím on my way to Europe right now, so after I get back Monday take it out and check with the laser. Iíll write down the RPM corrections and report my findings.

Thanks all for the advice

13
Main Message Board / Re: Throttle Speed Adjustment
« on: August 13, 2021, 05:12:59 AM »
Can the RPM test be done in neutral at the dock, or should it be under load out on the water in gear?

14
Main Message Board / Throttle Speed Adjustment
« on: August 12, 2021, 02:14:41 PM »
I have an '89 with the M25XP. Manual says 3200 is the max RPM. I was perusing the forum here and read a bunch of threads about cruise RPM and speeds, etc. I realized that my tach reads 25-2600 RPM at WOT. I'm pretty sure that's the way it's been since I've owned the boat (2 years). I know the tach can be less than accurate, so I ordered a laser tach from amazon to see what it's actually turning.
My question is...If it is indeed turning this lower speed, is it just a matter of adjusting the throttle set screw on the engine until it's reaching 3000-3200? I looked at it and it has plenty of room to be adjusted for the throttle to open wider. Secondly...can this be done at the dock in neutral, or should I be in gear out on the water? The engine runs very well other than this. I've not had any issues with it at all.  TIA!
Tim

15
Main Message Board / Re: Adler Barbor problems
« on: February 14, 2021, 10:46:57 AM »
Thanks for all the tips. I'm, pretty sure the unit is toast. It's pretty close to 30 years old and I've tried everything except to connect a battery directly to the control module. I'll probably give that a try this week, but I'm probably going to start shopping for a new system. I'm liking what I'm hearing about the new ones being more efficient, lower Amperage drain, and quieter.

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