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Quick comment: I did some searching. There are rebuild kits available for ZF10M/HBW100. There are various kits depending on how comprehensive the rebuild needs to be. So it does appear to be an option for you.

Like I said before, if you are experiencing slipping, have a close look at your transmission fluid to make sure it is the right stuff. My transmission was slipping during my first year of ownership, which I couldn't understand since it had just been rebuilt a year ago. I changed the fluid annually with the proper DexronIII fluid, and it gradually got better over a few years. Now, 7 years later, it works perfectly. I don't know what PO had put into the transmission, but in retrospect I suspect it may have been synthetic ATF, which is known to cause slippage. Presumably it took a few refills to fully eliminate any adsorbed traces of it from the interior surfaces. If you are having slipping problems and suspect you have synthetic ATF, I'd suggest a few refills with the correct Dexron fluid, with a few hours of use in between each refill. Much cheaper and easier than a rebuild or replacement.

I'm going to sound like a broken record here, but you've outlined the reasons why you would be much, much, MUCH better off rebuilding your current transmission. The PO of my boat had it rebuilt about a year before I bought it (would have been sometime around 2015), and I am so glad he did. From what I recall of the repair records, it looks like it was removed without having to remove the engine.

I know that the original Hurth transmission has been discontinued, but not sure whether the rebuild parts have been discontinued. Hopefully a good transmission shop would know of alternate parts if needed.

Just a question: You didn't put synthetic ATF into it, did you? If so, and you're having severe slipping, you might have an easier fix available to you.

Thanks for your response.  No, I have not used synthetic ATF.  You are correct about the availability of rebuild kits for the ZF 10.  I have contacted one marine shop and a transmission shop, both are willing to inspect and rebuild, once the transmission has been removed - which hopefully will be on Monday.  I am nervous about rebuilding the ZF 10. I have heard many comments that the rebuild kits may not be of the same 'quality'.

In my ongoing investigation of alternate transmissions I came across one called Technodrive TMC 40P.  This has been used for years in Beta engines.  Before knowing about this transmission, I called the Beta dealer in Sidney and he claimed that he didn't have any transmissions in the lineup that would fit my situation. However, this transmission is reported to be a very simple change out with minimum modifications.  I have specs for both the Technodrive and the ZF 10 and the main difference is about 4-5 mm in transmission length, (the Technodrive being longer.)   My neighbor replaced his ZF 5 with the same Technodrive transmission in his 25 HP Catalina 30 a few years ago and he claims it is a smooth and robust replacement. 

I am currently searching for this particular transmission.  I will contact the Beta dealer again on Monday to see if he has one available.  If he doesn't, I may have to purchase it state side, if it appears to be as good as the claims.  If anyone  has heard reports on these transmission, I would appreciate any feedback.

Thanks again Breaking Away for your comments.

Good Afternoon, it appears that I have been forced into the ZF 10 transmission breakdown group.  SV Graylin is a 2004 Catalina 34 Mk2. It has an M35B Universal engine.   I understand that the new replacement ZF 12 is a more robust transmission.  I am wondering if anyone has changed out the Z10 with the Z12 with the same engine as Graylin.

I have reviewed many of the Message Board comments but can't seem to find the same Catalina Model and engine combo for the Z12. From the internet it seems that there may be a need to raise the engine.  The Z12 is a somewhat larger transmission and I am wondering if I will need to shorten the shaft to accommodate the larger transmission or if there will be sufficient room. The gear ratio seems to be a bit different and wonder if a new prop would be required in the process.  At the moment, it seems that the transmission can be pulled without pulling the engine but not certain.

I contacted the Beta Dealer in Victoria BC thinking that they may have a transmission that would work.  He was confident that any of their transmissions would require "a lot" of adapting and suggested the ZF12 might be the best bet. 

Has anyone swapped out these transmissions on a M35B?  I would be most interested in your thoughts/ideas. Many, many thanks.

Rod MacDonald

Many thanks for the information.  Its useful not only for this specific project but important general information.  Cheers

I have been developing my winter project list since May.  I need to replace a few cam locks on the cabin top and will have to drill a few more holes in the cabin top.  I was told there is a metal plate located under where the the bank of spinlocks are located. I don't have a problem tapping new screw holes. I'm wondering if in fact there is a metal plate located under the spinlocks.

Thanks.
Rod
Graylin 2002 Cat34 Mkll

Canvas 3-piece winter cover for C34 mkII.  Not used in several years.
Make me an offer.  Hi Herb, has the cover been sold? Regards, Rod
Photos available.

The mystery of the engine not starting has been solved.  I thought it might be useful to offer to the group how this issue was resolved.  Paul offered great information that confirmed that I was on the right track in terms of trouble shooting the downstream side of the equation.  The frustrating part was that the issue was still unresolved.  Ken offered some information regarding:  "There's nothing that starts a diesel except preheating and engine compression/fuel (related to engine speed.)"  This got me thinking about the glow plugs.  Long and short of it is that the issue focused on the ignition/glow plug activator switch.  With assistance, I was able to check the switch and found connections that were not good.  That has been rectified and the engine is now an easy start.  I was able to start the engine on house batteries, as mentioned, probably because of the massive amperage going through the ignition switch.  Thanks to all the contributors!  The biggest take away for me from this was to 'understand the scope of the problem and 'all' the variables.  Once you understand all the variables to the problem, you can systematically trouble shoot until you find success.  Thanks again!

Thanks KW.  I will be heading to the boat tomorrow and hopefully be able to report back any news.
Cheers
Rod

Hi Paul, thanks for clarifying and yes, you are correct in your interpretation.  This boat is still fairly new to us so the learning curve has been 'verticle'!   You are also correct that I was unable to start the engine using the jumper cables, however, when I moved the jumpers from the house bank to the starter, the engine did start.  I did use the positive jumper cable from the battery terminal to the battery selector switch resulting in the engine turning but not catching.  I thought by swapping the Start and House cables on the battery switch I would rule out the battery switch as the same issues presented just in reverse, as you mentioned.
Thanks Paul for taking the time to respond to this query. 
Regards,
Rod

I am hoping to once again call upon the wisdom of the C34 group with a problem that currently stymies me. (2004 Catalina Mk 2 with a Kubota 35 hp) The problem lies between my new group 27 battery (800 cca) and the starter.  When I switch the battery isolater to #1 position (start) the motor turns over and over, without catching.  The moment I turn it to position #2 (house), it starts immediately.  The house is 4 new golf cart batteries. 
Here is what I have done.  I have exchanged my new battery with yet another new battery with identical results.  On the battery isolater switch, I have reversed the start and house battery cable resulting in an instant start on #1 (now the house) and the same feeble result as above on #2.  This suggests to me the battery is fine and the isolater switch is fine.  I have removed and cleaned the battery posts on the starter battery. As well I have cleaned all terminal posts and cables going to the starter.  Using jumper cables, I went from the isolater switch #1 position to the starter battery to isolate the positive cable.  Same result when trying to turn over engine.  I then took the battery cables and jumped from the off/on switch for the motor to the positive post on the starter, same result.  This seems to indicate that all positive cables to/from the battery to the isolater switch  then to the starter are all fine, otherwise the jumper cables would have served to bypass any short in the cables.  To be clear, I did not remove the positive cables from their posts on the battery or isolator switch, I simply jumped them with battery cables.
The fact that the motor jumps into action with the house batteries, suggests that the starter is also fine.  So, I am left with a situation that has forced us back to the docks and scratching our heads in wonder. One added note, I do not have a Blue Seas ACR installed yet.  I would like to first resolve this issue.  If I have missed something, I would appreciate hearing any feedback that might bring this electrical problem to an end.  Many thanks in advance. 
PS. I have read Phils thread regarding starting problems as there were some good ideas that I will test on my boat tomorrow.

Thanks Jim for the information regarding adding info to my profile.  I'm a relative newbie so I am still trying to navigate through the system.  I did go into my profile to add additional information however I am unable to do so.  Essentially I can add a 'call  name' and email address. Perhaps if I was an IA member I would be able to add more information.  I am seriously considering the IA membership.  Thanks and Cheers,
Rod

Thanks Jim.  I returned to my boat today to re-visit the instrument pod.  I do understand what you are saying regarding the removal of the alarm.  I'm curious though, in order to remove the instrument pod, it appears that I have to remove the screws on the back of the pod. It also looks like I need to remove the nut on the ignition button so that I am not pulling on the ignition and wires.  It is this round retaining nut that is near impossible to remove.  I put some penetrating oil on it today and will attempt tomorrow.  The question is: do I need to take off the retaining nut that holds the ignition button.  Thanks.
Rod

Thanks for your suggestions. I did read some of the threads which lead me to start the trouble shooting from the wires connecting the sending unit. Of course, after loosing a pound of flesh, I hoped that there might be a less painful approach. Thanks again.

I have a concern about the low oil pressure alarm and/or oil sending unit on our (2004) Catalina 34 Mk II (hull # 1677)  .  The alarm stopped working in Aug.  It seemed to inadvertently go on/off then finally it stopped.  After inspection, I noticed oil on the oil sending unit and am thinking that this could be the issue and/or perhaps the wires need to be removed cleaned and re-installed before rushing out and purchasing the oil sending unit. 

The other issue might be the actual alarm which I believe is located in the pod that houses all the other gauges eg. fuel, water temp etc.  There is a large (round and serrated) nut that contains and holds the starting button in position.  It just doesn't want to move.  Because of its shape, I'm  limited by tools to remove it ie. large plyers, yet it simply doesn't move. Any hints on removing this nut? Of course the other issue might well be a poor connection. Any thoughts about this would be appreciated. The engine is a Universal M35B. Many thanks.

I have two issues that I am seeking advice on and  have decided to keep the issues separate so the threads aren't confusing.

This past summer after purchasing our (2004) Catalina 34 Mk II (hull # 1677)  I waded into the pool of knowledge of the Catalina group and hope I can once again glean some helpful information.

Our Maxwell VW800 windlass has never been overhauled or opened according to the former owner. That follows along the lines of: if it ain't broken, don't fix it. It hasn't caused any grief however, I want to remove it from the boat to clean it, change oil etc. soon after I receive the seal kit for the gear box from Maxwell manufacture.  I was informed by Will Vrooman that parts are still available for this particular model.

I am wondering if anyone has done this job before and might offer some advice over and above the owner's manual. Any hint on dismantling the bulkhead in the V – berth to access the windlass would also be useful.  It looks as if the teak ledges need to be removed in order to get at the bulkhead. Thanks.

Thanks to all the contributors to the blower fan issue.  I now have an operational fan! I appreciated the suggestion of rewiring it as it is currently connected to the ignition. I believe it was Stu who suggested a direct input into the air intake. I don't quite have a picture of that in my mind but will do some searching. Thank you all!