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Messages - WindyT

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1
Catalina 34s for Sale / 1990 MK 1.5, tall rig, wing keel for sale
« on: February 29, 2020, 10:35:47 AM »
40k firm.  Well equipped / turn-key ready for cruising in the Bahamas. 

See the listing on sailboatlistings.com

https://www.sailboatlistings.com/view/84921

2
Main Message Board / Engine bogs down under load
« on: February 16, 2020, 07:40:26 PM »
Hi folks,
A bit of a puzzler for me. Im currently offshore near marathon and planning to change my fuel filters for the third time in a month tomorrow. Until now Iíve never had any issue with the engine. We are cruising along at 2300 rpm without issue but if I head towards win and out the bow through some larger waves (as when I was in the Gulf Stream two hours ago), the engine will bog down and die unless I take some of the load off by either rolling out the jib or turning back downwind. 
My concern is sediment getting shook up in worse conditions and there was some in my racor when I changed it a week ago after same symptoms.
Iím running a Racor R20S and a Fram P7514. Iím considering changing the Racor to a R20T as a temporizing measure until I get the tank flushed and cleaned.
No water in the fuel. No other changes. Anything else I am missing here?  Thanks for the last minute help!

3
Main Message Board / Re: cabin sole
« on: June 10, 2019, 10:13:12 AM »
Just adding some more info for future reference.
As of today: World Panel has locations in Northern Florida and Northern NC.  (if you want to save the $250 on shipping).
In South Carolina, East Teak in Donald, SC has 4x8 3/8" teak and Holly panels for $179 per panel, available for pickup. 

4
Main Message Board / Keel Hull Joint... rust?
« on: May 21, 2019, 08:47:47 PM »
Hey folks!

Pulled the boat out (1990 Wing keel) today to find a thin crack most of the way around the front of the keel.  But a fairly prominent spot was on the port side (pictured).  Called Catalina who thinks <50% chance rust.  It's a lead keel... so if it is rust, gotta be keel bolts.  They think it may be fairing compound but who knows.  I'm planning to:
A) collect sample and get analyzed for iron content
B) fill the bilge with hot pink food color water to see if any leaks out
C) Torque the keel bolts to recommended spec

Zero of these tests are perfect for rusty keel bolts but there was a substantial amount of this orange stuff and I feel that if it were rust, those bolts would be in awful shape and frankly, they look just fine when I look at them in the bilge.   Would love to hear any thoughts or if anyone has had similar experience! 

5
Main Message Board / Re: House vs starter bank charging
« on: March 20, 2019, 09:16:38 AM »
Thanks all!

Stu - I've actually been spending a lot of time there and planning to do a lot of rewiring. John's DIY posts are especially awesome!  What a great resource.

 Since the PO made bank 1 and bank 2 essentially the same (both are 2 12v glass mat batteries in parallel), I've keep the switch to Both while charging (even though charger wired to bank 1).  He recommended to keep it to Both all the time when I bought the boat.  ...something I didn't question until recently. 
The one thing I couldn't find was curious about the ill effects of using charger to top of the reserve bank if it's a different type or capacity of battery.

Thanks again!

WindyT

6
Main Message Board / House vs starter bank charging
« on: March 19, 2019, 08:18:08 PM »
When connected to shore power, how do folks leave there battery selector switch while charging? 
For example, many people on this forum have the following:  house bank of 4 6V batteries in series/parallel and the reserve / starter bank is a deep cycle 12v of some form.  Does leaving the switch on 'all' affect battery life?  I'm even seeing fairly commonly house bank flooded lead acid batteries paired with maintenance free AGM reserve bank.  My impression was that leaving the switch on all would negatively impact the life of all of the above but I am certainly a novice.

My current setup is 4 150Ah AGM batteries (2 on bank 1 and 2 on bank 2).  Planning to revert to normality with the golf cart + reserve bank but curious how to make these expensive little puppies last!

Please enlighten me.

WindyT

7
Main Message Board / Re: Pencil Zinc Question
« on: April 10, 2018, 07:14:52 PM »
I saw that ron!  Seems like in this case, the Zinc ended up doing its sacrificial duties but did not reinstall the Zn with teflon.  Thanks for the heads up!

8
Main Message Board / Re: Pencil Zinc Question
« on: April 09, 2018, 08:59:50 PM »
So much thanks for the help all. 

Mystery solved.  the PO used a reducing bushing to allow for multiple sizes of zincs to be used (I ended up using the 1/4" size).  Strange system though as I still had to cut down the length of the zinc. 

Lesson learned and I don't think this is said often enough on this sight - I really love / appreciate the C34 support community!  What an awesome group!
Hopefully one day I'll be a contributing member, but until then, thanks everyone for all the work you put into this site / community!

WindyT

9
Main Message Board / Re: Pencil Zinc Question
« on: April 07, 2018, 07:04:10 PM »
Re: hardware store.  I think that may be the most logical course of action.  I actually went to toadmarine.com and bought the 'official' pencil zinc for the M35... and my zinc is quite a bit skinnier.

Re: zn length: 2"

Re: thread. the 3/8 plug threads into the HX nicely.  Just the Zinc doesn't fit as it is 1/8 (?), I believe.  This based on the 1/4 zinc I purchased being too large for the hole where the zinc belongs.   So what I believe was done is this jury rigged combo plug was created to accept the larger thread size but smaller zinc?

10
Main Message Board / Pencil Zinc Question
« on: April 07, 2018, 04:02:50 PM »
Firstly, yes. I've learned my lesson.  Bought this boat in July 2017 with a brand new zinc and was told it was a once a year thing to check by the guy that surveyed the engine / rebuilt the heat exchanger in June 2017 prior to purchase. I stand corrected as the HX pencil zinc is 99.9% gone. 

Looking for ideas here.  I appear to have an 1/8" zinc with a 3/4" female threads on the actual HX unit.  I had already read about cutting down zincs and was prepared, but the way in which this fits into the HX seems to be potentially unique after the rebuild with a 3/4 adapter liquid welded on top of the smaller (1/2") sized - hard to explain but perhaps take a look at the picture.

My 3 questions:
1) is there any way to just dissolve the zinc so I can re-use the previously jury rigged system?
2) Has anyone had a similar issue / know of an easy way to reproduce this adapter?
3) Should I bite the bullet and just remove the entire HX to make sure no zinc fragments inside / clean it / potentially retap the threads? 

Thanks for everyone's advice!  ... planning to do my seasonal oil change tomorrow.  Here is to hoping it goes a bit better than this pencil zinc!

WindyT

11
Main Message Board / Re: Bumper boats
« on: February 19, 2018, 11:04:56 AM »
Got it.
Tried the finish nail and feels appropriate + inside of lazerette looks fine. 

Thanks for the tips!    ...now I just have to make her look pretty again!



12
Main Message Board / Bumper boats
« on: February 19, 2018, 06:55:40 AM »
Hey folks!

Was at dock this AM, left for a quick jog, and upon my return, I found a neighbor had hit my boat!  I just met him and it sounds like he had trouble with the current and wind while docking.  Fair enough, but I have no idea how hard he hit me.  Looks like it was hard enough to take the gel coat off and was probably a pretty firm strike to the starboard side transom.  Anywhere else I should look for damage when a boat is struck like that?  Nothing obvious in the aft cabin.  I am sure it is fine but just wanted to check with the pro's in terms of looking at structural things after a boating accident.
Thanks!

WindyT

14
Main Message Board / Re: Duct routing
« on: September 26, 2017, 12:01:18 PM »
Currently routing duct work to the aft cabin - have a new mermaid 16.5k in the port locker! 

Phenomenal tutorial was quite helpful!  Thanks a ton (and would recommend to anyone interested): http://www.c34.org/projects/projects-air-conditioning-2.html

The question before I start whacking away with a jig saw - did anyone else have trouble putting the head cabinet / toilet paper holding thing back in place?  Seems like the space is too small to accommodate the full frame and 4" ductwork. 

15
Main Message Board / Re: Screens
« on: September 22, 2017, 11:28:20 PM »
In case anyone is wondering, the lewmar portlight screens are now $45 each!!!

The DIY option must be the best bet at this point.  Good lord!

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