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I like a good tool as much as the next guy but I have a cheap easy way to verify any RPM with a strobe.

I found a free app (Iphone) used to verify RPM on a record player.  Adjusting the RPM on the application to match a paint/chalk mark on the crank pulley to confirm rpm.  Or setting the engine RPM and matching the App to that RPM to confirm accuracy.  Confirm all to the tachometer. 

You could see about turns of the driveshaft or rotation speed of the alternator etc.  I deleted the app but it was good for confirming that my tac was in sync with actual RPMs.

On this post topic.  My bottom and assume prop were so dirty that I was only able to get to about 2600 RPM at full throttle a few years ago.  definitely dragging the works down. 

Brent   

Sorry, it took me so much time to attach the photo I ran out of time and I skimped on the text. 

I did end up taping the seams in the end and I did put more small pieces around the edges.  I used aluminum duct tape for the seams.  I cleaned up any oil with acetone and stuck the pieces directly to to the wood no screws needed so far.   

The engine is now a lot quieter...

I have a 1997 MkII boat with the M35AC engine and I can't remember the hull number. 

all the extra wires and terminals are for the powered winches (bad choice of location in my opinion) 

Brent   

I used the "Sailor Solutions" product.  This is the only pic I seem to have...

I don't see anyone replying to this one so I thought I might give it a try.  As they say "I'm not a doctor but I'll have a look". 

I'll bet that the brass bung/plug/fitting is a common one from the hardware store and it really resembles the end of a pencil zink like the one found in the heat exchanger.  Might that be the fabled engine zink? 

As iron (block) and brass (plug) hate each other there might be significant deterioration on the brass part (less noble). 

Some sort of pipe dope or Teflon with a fresh plug might fix it right up. 

I know there are more years of experience on here than me so be gentle.

Brent
Dark and Stormy
1997 Catalina 34 Mk II

I had my PSS walk/come loose while underway and do the water fountain for me.  The set screws must have gotten loose enough to cause the forward ring to slide forward toward the engine.  the front ring stopped at the clamp/flange that holds propeller shaft.  In a panic all I could see to do was move the rubber bellows forward on the log to give more tension on the matting surfaces. All seems fine now but I can imagine if the rubber bellows becomes old and hardened and doesn't push hard on the mating rings water could come through.   

I also imagine going in reverse the prop wash/thrust could add pressurized water to the matting surfaces and cause the spray.

A little disconcerting for me to think that there is no real mechanical divider between outside and inside other the spring pressure of the bellows boot.

I got a free strobe app for my smartphone.  Cant get the name as the phone is being used by Davey Jones right now.  just go to app store and search.  It flashes at a certain frequency and you can adjust that frequency in the app until the mark (tape, crayon, paint pen) on the crank pulley becomes stationary.  Try it for different RPMs and compare to tachometer.  the use of the app was for record players or something.  FREE!

Good luck,

Brent

Set up a sprinkler and let it "rain" on the whole cabin.