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I had the shared tool earlier this spring/summer, and sent it back to Indian Falls, the creator of the tool.  It works great!

I would like to use this tool again.  If the current "owner" could contact me, I would appreciate it!

Thanks!

I believe the first photo is a side view, looking through the door in the starboard wall (in the aft cabin).

We just replaced our old furler with the Harken MKIV unit 1 this summer.  Install was painless.  Works great!

I just recently replaced mine.  The side at the engine wasn't too bad, but the side at the gauges fell apart in my hands after taking off all of the electrical tape holding it together.

I was just looking at my original Harken Unit 1 furler from 1988.  It has a 1/2" clevis pin at the bottom.  Any ideas why this would be instead of the documented 5/8"?  On my next trip to the boat I plan on removing the pin and furler and measure the size of the hole.  But, in the meantime, curious about opinions. 

I still have Dan's cutlass bearing tool mentioned in this thread:
https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,8920.15.html

I can ship to whoever may need it (just pay for shipping). 

We found that some rain water was coming down the inside of the mast and the most like cause was a line entry/exit plate about 6' down from the top of the mast.

We don't use that line (not sure what it's for) so I covered the plate with a piece of Flex tape.

The pic shows the type of plate. On our mast, the plate is inverted so that it's opening faces upwards (ie. rain catcher)

Paul

Funny, we have the same thing on our mast, and thought it was something the PO did.  I couldn't figure out why it was there.

I still have Dan's tool that he made for this.  He wanted me to hang on to it until someone else needed it.  Just pay for shipping, and I can send it to you.  It works great!  I also rented a gear puller from an auto parts store to pull the prop. 

I just made it back to my boat after the winter and the same thing happened to me.  I know no one was on the boat as there are no foot prints or anything in the snow.  I can only assume that somehow the cover with the weight of the snow must have put pressure on the wheel.  I really don't understand how this could have happened, but there must have been some sort of alignment of forces that worked just right to do this. 

I have the same problem.  I replaced the thermostat, but still runs all the time.  And, I have verified the thermostat tube loop is correct, attached correctly, and the tube is not touching the evaporator at any point.  PO placed the compressor in the closet behind nav station.  I found if I have another fan in there that blows the warm air out of the closet, it will cycle correctly.  Seems it gets too warm in the closet and it needs to continue running the fan to cool the compressor. 

If you provide more air flow to the space your compressor sits, does that help?

On our MK1, the blower only comes on when the key is on (and the blower switch is on). 

The mast was straight previously, I induced some bend by tensioning the forward shroud more than the aft shroud, and tightening the backstay more than it was.  This helped, but the pumping is still there.

Mast bend discussion: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,9070.msg65842.html#msg65842
Rig tension guide I used: http://www.c34.org/wiki/images/8/8a/Rigging01.pdf

I have this same problem and it's driving me crazy.  I think I have read just about every post on this forum about this topic, but still getting it.  It happens most when the wind is coming from the side of the boat while we are in the slip. 

I have double checked the rig tensions using a Loos gauge using numbers I found on this site.  The forward lowers are set tighter than the aft lowers.  I even have a bit of bend in the mast (middle going forward). 

Wrapping the halyards certainly helps, but it seems like there should be something else I can do with the mast where I wouldn't need to wrap/unwrap halyards all the time.

The only other thing I've read about is changing the mast rake.  I haven't moved the mast step forward yet as I'd have to shorten my backstay then.  But, I wonder if that would really help, since the mast would still be in the same basic shape, just angled slightly aft.

I can't remember if you said you checked the hoses going to and coming back from the water heater?  It took a lot of screwing around to get the air out of my system after replacing the hoses going to the water heater from the engine.  I knew it was finally burped when the hose coming back from the water heater was warm to the touch.  Before that, it stayed cool.  Just a thought.