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Jim, it was your suggestion that helped solve the riddle.  I hope others see this thread when similar issues crop up.  Thanks for the help!

Didn't get much of a chance to work on the leak over the weekend due to other commitments but I was able to get some UV dye and a UV Light.  Put the dye in the system and ran the motor up to temperature and once the T-stat opened ran for about 5 more minutes.  Checked with the UV light and lo-and behold there was a leak at the reducing fitting for the hot water heater.  Naturally it was running down the back side of the hose so it wasn't easily seen without the UV light.  Recovery tank also had a bit of a drippy leak.  Got things all tightened on Sunday.  Last night I pressurized the system up to 14 psi and it held.  Whew!  What a relief so I took her out for a spin.  Thanks for all the help and insight guys.  The autozone dye and UV light cost me a little over 22 bucks I think. Well worth it!

Thanks everyone. I'll be working on the suggestions this weekend and will report back (or ask more questions...). 

Cap was purchased new in 2021 also.
I'll check the 101s.  Thanks Stu

Is there a way to tell if the heat exchanger is failing?  I have disappearing coolant also.  I have a new water heater (2021) with new hoses.  I don't see any leaks anywhere.  If I pressurize the cooling system to 14 psi it steadily drops to about 5 psi and stays there.  No signs of leakage anywhere on or near the engine.  I'm thinking it must be HE but before I plunk down almost 700.00 for a new on I'm trying to confirm thats the culprit.  Engine starts and runs fine so no signs of coolant getting into cylinders resulting in hydrolock.  Any thoughts? 
Thanks,
John

Thanks
John
jm dot novot at gmail dot com is email. 

What is the longest distance you guys and gals typically float plan for in a day?  We're in Baltimore Harbor and want to do a 4 or 5 day trip. Typically we do home to Rock Hall, to St. Michaels, to Rhode River, to Magothy, to home but this year we're thinking of changing it up a bit and trying to get to Oxford instead.  6 hours at 5 knots average gives us a few options.  I'm just curious how long of a day you typically plan.

I got this one from Catalina Direct.  (two for the water also)

https://www.catalinadirect.com/shop-by-boat/catalina-38/hull-deck/midship/deck-pipe-cap-diesel-stainless-steel/?SearchResults=1

Stuffing box adjusted properly?  Getting a drip while underway? 

Consider Dyneema life lines.  Simple to make.  Colligo marine has some info that may be helpful. 
https://www.colligomarine.com/lifelines-gallery

Well I'm going to try to go thru the outboard holes once the weather warms up enough to melt the snow and ice on the boat.  If the purchased screws turn out to not be long enough I have a plan B ready to go. I'll get some 1/4 20 316 stainless all thread 18" long from McMaster Carr and appropriate acorn nuts.  I'll counter bore the hole in the traveler deep enough to accept the acorn nut and then can cut the all thread to the proper length in the cabin.  I just wish it would warm up so I can complete this project.

This place does all sorts of rigging with their version of Dyneema including standing rigging.   They have a section on lifelines too. 
https://www.colligomarine.com/

Here is a link to a bunch of youtube videos from their site.  pretty helpful.  Good luck.
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=colligo+marine+lifeline

The PO purchased the incorrect traveler upgrade from Catalina Direct for the existing track. The new cars and ends didn't fit the old Nico Ficro track.  I got the new track from Garhauer. 
I'm not thru bolting all of the screws, just one on each side. My question is are 10 1/2 inch screws long enough to go thru the track, the riser and the deck at the most outboard existing screw hole?  The curvature of the deck makes that a pretty long penetration to get through the ceiling at that hole.   

I'm replacing my traveler track and upgrading the cars and blocks. During the installation I'm finally thru-bolting the traveler track.  I purchased the longer bolts (screws) and they measure about 10 1/2 inches.  I was planning on putting them thru the most outboard holes at both ends in the traveler track.  Has anyone drilled thru that hole and thru bolted?  I'm a little concerned the bolts may not be long enough.  How thick is the deck generally in that area?  I realize every layup may be a little different.  I'll be checking location using a trick a boat tech taught me of using two rare earth magnets on either side of the deck.  They will center up on each other even thru 3/4 to 1" thickness.
Thanks for the  input on the hole location.  BTW, I'm not trying to save the threads in the embedded plate. The threads on the bolts I got don't run the entire length so there is no need to save the threads on the insert. 
John

Pulling the new hoses was actually the easiest part for me.  Of course I had the luxury of having the heater out first but I still don't think it will be too difficult for you. I used the 3" long piece of wooden dowel inserted in the old and new hoses with a small screw thru the hoses into the dowel to connect old and new hoses.  (obviously cut off the section where the screw went thru the hose once you get them pulled thru) Worked like a charm for me.  Pull from the engine side and push from the heater side and I think you'll be fine. I had the dish soap at the ready but didn't need it.
There definitely seems to be enough space under the floorboards.