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I picked the panel up a couple of weeks ago.

Especially on the Chesapeake where it gets pretty steamy in august!

is it still available?

Thanks Marc!

Steep price but, no worries about corrosion, and this is a big plus, it includes an adjustable diverter!  Shipping was an unreasonable $32 to boot but, it's the only place that has one so, I ordered one.

Bill, don't forget condensation! Cold air blowing through pipes/fittings, meeting warm/moist air on outside fitting. Ducts should be insulated!

I'll be using insulated flex duct and I intend to insulate the wye as well.

I was wondering how corrosion resistant the galv metal might be over time knowing the air would be pretty humid when the ac isn't running.

I'm replacing my old AC with a new one as well as the duct etc.  Having a tough time finding a plastic 6x6x4 wye but plenty of galv metal.  Any thoughts on using the metal fitting under the V-Berth to branch from the 6" main flexible insulated duct?

Yeah!  I'll pay for shipping...

i would imagine that, if repair was something that HAD to be considered, I'd guess that a prop shop might be able to knowing they're capable of repairing cracked bronze props. if there was substantial electrolysis, that would reduce the possibility of repair.  Personally, repair would be my last choice.

BTW, ditto on the boat yard advice...

Rock & Roll!

Or, replace it with a Twin Disc TMC-40 as I am and it is only 4mm (>3/16") longer and 1/4 of the price of a ZF10 ($1259 vs. $5000 on CD).  I'm mid project right now, having removed the exhaust riser and heat exchanger, drained coolant form the motor, and removed the alternator and wiring from the motor.

I'll report back when I've successfully swapped the gearbox and relocated the heat exchanger.

Patches

Ron, If I recall it was an 1" longer.  Do you really think that would make that much of a difference?

I too installed a Federal Flexible coupling with a ZF10 on my M25XPB back in 2017.  Its served me well and reduced vibration.

For what its worth, I replaced my HBW50 on my M25XPB with a ZF10 back in 2017 myself.  I did not pull the engine or need to pull the bell housing to remove the HBW50.  I did, however remove the bell housing after pulling the transmission to replace the damper plate.  Pulling the tranny was a bit of boat yoga but, not that big of a deal for me.  A few bolts after pulling the control cable, coupling etc. and out she came.   BTW, while I was at it I replaced everything all the way back.  New SS shaft, stuffing box, prop and added  a flexible coupling.

Nuts and Bolts it is.  Now I just need to see how accessible it is, or isn't, to do that....

You can through bolt from the top of the toe rail?  I guess I need to take a close look from the interior at the joint.  Sounds like some really demanding boat yoga...