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Messages - Jim Fitch

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Main Message Board / Re: Raymarine EV100 wheel pilot disengaging
« on: June 06, 2022, 10:40:36 AM »
You have to very carefully and very very lightly lubricate only the inside of the clutch rollers (#5 in the diagram) but don't let any lubricant get on the belt.  Try it and it will stop the clutch from popping out.  I read it in some response on some website that someone from Raymarine gave them this tip but the manual has never included it.

Main Message Board / Re: motor mount bracket, M-35 et al.
« on: September 23, 2021, 07:03:23 AM »
KW - I hope the welder already got you up and running.  I had two of these break years apart.  The second time was last year and there was no stock.  I think Hansen Marine said it would take a few weeks to get and I think it actually took 2 or 3 months before it got to me.  I had the broken one welded the next day with some reinforcements added.  I still haven't swapped it out for the new one but I need to hang onto the new part as a spare.  We extended the bottom support beyond the break and off to the side to allow the nut to fit on the engine mount.

Hi Bill -

Yes, the new coupling was bored for a light press fit, the coupling was faced, the shaft dimpled for the set screws and the shaft was checked afterwards again for straightness.  I had the prop reconditioned as well, although it needed only minor adjustment.  So all the right stuff was done.


Hi David -

I finally got my 1990 flange off the original shaft last weekend after fighting with it on and off for a couple of weeks.  I tried using a standard puller and managed to budge it maybe an 1/8" and then it just seemed to jamb up completely.  I ended up ordering the Buck Algonquin 5 inch puller 50MCP00500.  I had a breaker bar on the center of the puller in the bilge and would crank on the shaft using the propeller.  That didn't solve the problem by itself.  I tried heating the flange a few times with the MAP gas torch, protecting everything around it with aluminum baking tins but that didn't work.  I had soaked it for days with BP Blaster including filling the set screw holes, that didn't work.

I had actually given up but said to my son, "let's try one more time" and he cranked on the prop while I hit the flange with a hammer.  As I hit it it would drive the shaft forward so he'd pull it back and I'd whack it again while he cranked and we finally got the flange moving again.  After a couple of turns I went back to the prop and we helped each other keep it turning.  It must have been halfway off before it wasn't a major struggle to turn the shaft.  It was a very satisfying sound when we finally heard the flange drop off the shaft inside the boat.

I'm not sure what combination of the things we did actually worked or if it really took all of them together but nothing was moving until I started whacking away with the hammer while he cranked on the prop.

At no point in time did we put any pressure or even touch the flange on the transmission to to this.  I actually raised the engine up a bit to get it out of the way.

When this was done we pulled the cutlass bearing which allowed us to pull the shaft out of the boat to the side of the rudder.  I had hoped we could keep the original bronze shaft.  I was going to take it to have it checked for straightness but once it was out I could see irregularities where the cutlass bearing was and it had a significant groove where the stuffing box made contact and it had been eating cutlass bearings faster than it used to.  The bottom line is I could have just cut the shaft and saved a bunch of time and energy since I ended up replacing the shaft anyway.  A new shaft was not in the budget but I didn't feel like I had a choice.  I just picked up my new stainless shaft today.

Good luck,


Main Message Board / Re: Old Raymarine Autopilot Repair Source
« on: June 10, 2014, 04:23:42 AM »
Dan Gerhardt sells parts as well.  I just bought a new motor, orings and connector for my ST4000+ from him at a good discount.  His email address is:


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