Messages

On the subject of cabin lights, our Mark 2 has those swivel eyeballs in the ceiling all over the boat. Two of ours had burned out sockets from those quartz bulbs of yesteryear. Instead of replacing the entire light for $35+ I bought a bag of sockets on Amazon for a not easy but doable swap.   

That makes me want the newer pushpit. If it wasn't for the pricy bimini Surround being too tight back there I would cut a new seat base of starboard with an Extension. 

I got to the boat today while it is getting some body work done in a heated shop.  Very nice for a change.  Attached are two images showing the mounts and the brace better than the previous shot.  The aft seats on my 1996 hull may not extend as far aft as the 1998 version and in order to bypass the bimini, the post had to mount totally outside of the pushpit structure. 
While it's a relatively balmy 30F outside, the cockpit is more like 75F.  it sort of feels like summer in there.

This image is the best I have today.  What does not show well is the simple bimini frame clamp-on attachment to the vertical member of the pushpit.  The base fitting is through bolted on the step.  On a previous boat, a 1980 C-30, I did something similar and broke the pushpit.  My welder had a heck of a time welding that extremely thin tubing.  16 years later they did use better stainless tubing but I did not want to take the chance.  That brace is also a great hand hold to reach for on the way up the ladder.

On our 1996 boat the aft seat doesn't extend far enough aft to pass the tube through so I used the Garhauer swivel bracket mounted to the push pit and the 2" ball bolted on the sloped transom.  The mounting of the ball seemed a little wimpy so I needed up through bolting it with I think a ⅜" bolt.  Our 9.9 Mercury is mounted on the rail with an Edson Mount.  I didn't fully trust the pushpit to support the 85 pounder so I also added a 45 degree strut/brace from the vertical down to the starboard side step using ¾" stainless and Bimini's parts.   

Thanks guys for clarifying my fuel pump misconceptions.  And it totally blows my plans right out of the water! I thought I got the idea that the fuel pump stops after ignition from this site but I must be mistaken and I will erase that thought.  As far as the micron numbers, it would appear that I am over doing both of them.  The next time I change filters I suppose I will change to a 30/10 combination of the two and let a little tiny crud get through. 
Thanks for straightening me out.

I have read through as much of the previous posts as I can  and found nothing specific enough to my issue at hand.  This summer we had a fuel filter blockage where I changed both the 10 micron Racor and the 4 micron secondary engine mounted filter.   A few weeks later the Racor plugged again and I changed just that one.   My post Racor filter vaccuum gauge was reading 11psi after the second stoppage and 8psi after the change.  I don't have any reference to what numbers should be good to start with but at least now I know what does not work.  The engine runs fine now but I am expecting more crud in the filters.  I will add Biobor to the tank soon in hopes of an improvement.

The racor filters didn't look too bad but obviously were bad enough at least for a fuel system that is depending on gravity flow to get through.  As I understand the system, and I may be wrong, once the engine starts the electric fuel pump stops and lets the fuel siphon down and probably gets sucked in by the injection pump hence the vacuum pressure.  To facilitate bleeding after a filter change and to eliminate the blaring oil pressure beep from the panel with the ignition switch turned on, I previously wired in a hot wire that quick disconnects to the pump's positive wire  to keep it running as long as necessary. 

So finally the question is: would there be any harm in running the electric pump continuously if and when the fuel filters start to clog again?  An accessible swith could be installed for emergency use.  That extra pull through the Racor seems like what the halting engine needs to make it to a destination without the drama of dodging a regatta and maneuvering a few turns into a marina. 

I wish to avoid the drama.   

We did  the Trent Severn in 2019 and thoroughly enjoyed the tour of Ontario.  Compared to the NY canals that we traversed next, well there was no comparison.  The Canadians might be pressure washing the lock walls while in NY the growth is thick and toxic.   My terry cloth covers rotted off.  The TS was also mostly manned by eager college kids who did a fab job.  We hope to head east and south again and may go this year but still undecided. 
If we stay north 6-7 weeks in the North channel is a good substitute,

6-7 weeks in the north channel sounds like a fantastic backup plan!  I now have the trent severn on my to-sail list, will have to do more research to prep.  Have you sailed the thousand islands area?

Sadly our only experience on Lake Ontario was a quiet, mast horizontal, 40 mile trip over to Oswego, NY.  Canadian friends rave about the islands but it's unlikely we will get there.

We did  the Trent Severn in 2019 and thoroughly enjoyed the tour of Ontario.  Compared to the NY canals that we traversed next, well there was no comparison.  The Canadians might be pressure washing the lock walls while in NY the growth is thick and toxic.   My terry cloth covers rotted off.  The TS was also mostly manned by eager college kids who did a fab job.  We hope to head east and south again and may go this year but still undecided. 
If we stay north 6-7 weeks in the North channel is a good substitute,

Well, I walked into that one didn't I.  Point taken.   

Shoot, I should have read all of that 101 topic before I launched into the hose replacement.   The last post from Jim Lucas was spot on and might have saved me some time.   

What a fun job this has been.  Snaking the new hose through was certainly made easier by accessing the undersole space through my many holes.  After drilling a new set of 2" holes to starboard of the engine beds just like the originals on the other side, I used a couple of fiberglass electricians snake rods to run a string from under the galley to the new holes.  The new hose is regular and good Gates ⅝" heater hose and it barely fit through the tight spot just in front of the engine space.   I pulled from the front to rear with the pull string tightly stitched through holes drilled in the end of the hose to make the end small enough to get through the restricted spot.  After clipping out all the old hose that could be reached to make room I pushed enough hose up by the bilge pump past the thru hulls and through the bulkhead to the water heater to allow some movement of the heater.  The double run used about 25' of hose.  Once happy with the hose install I set into filling some of those holes.  With a router rabbet bit I cut rabbets deep enough to recess rounds cut from the original vinyl covered plywood flush with the sole.  I did epoxy coat the hole edges and the filler pieces before setting the fillers in place.  This was probably overkill but easy.  And now it's ready for new vinyl.   
This job became much larger than expected but that has certainly happened before and will happen again. 

Ok, I can add to this.  I just went through this with my 1996 Mark 2 and it was not easy.  From all the other written experiences I expected to pull the hoses through with little issue.   Those hoses would not budge.  After 10 3.5" holes were bored in the sole I had the problem licked.

The issue was caused by the original hoses having been run through tight and short sections of pvc pipe glassed under the sole.  No way were those hoses pulling through and they are still under the sole.  There was also a hose clamp in the middle of a hose run guaranteeing its existence.   There Needing to leave so much of the original hoses behind, the factory drilled holes on the port side of the engine space was occupied.  Fortunately there was room on the other side of the engine compartment to run the new hoses.  I bored new holes next to the engine beds, snaked a messenger line and pulled new hose through.

Warren at Catalina was very helpful through this process.   I was impressed with his willingness to communicate.  Apparently my boat is very unusual.

Good luck.

I am finally replacing the hoses and have run into a hitch.  Everyone who has written about replacing these hoses talks about a relatively easy push and pull to change the hoses.   I feel I must be missing some very obvious detail.  With both ends disconnected and the water heater end pulled down a bit near the under galley thru hulls and the other ends coming up vertically from the holes with the alternator removed, they don't move.  Pulling and pushing from either end gets me nowhere.   It's almost like the hoses are fastened in place but I know that is not likely nor is there anyplace to do so. 

Any ideas?  At least it is winter and I have until spring to get this done there is no rush. 

Another unrelated question: I have to raise the motor mounts due to a new gearbox having a greater offset that necessitated raising the engine ¾" or so.  I have made some nice mahogany blocks but wonder if I shouldn't be using a metal that won't compact under pressure and vibration.  The wood risers are varnished and ready to go but I can easily back up and getsome aluminum or steel cut to size.

On my Mark 2 there is ample space once the prop shaft is slid back. It seems to me the earlier boats might be similar.  The tough part is getting the trans to slide back off it's mounting due to the tight tolerances.  I think I started the movement with a putty knife between trans and engine and then a screwdriver gradually moving around and not forcing anything.  Good luck.