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Messages - Kyle Ewing

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 20
Main Message Board / Re: Electrical System mods
« on: December 05, 2021, 08:08:12 PM »

I wired my 1990 in a similar manner as you propose, including On-Off-Combine switch, with some key differences:
*  Two banks of golf cart batteries wired to the factory 1-2-both switch.  I always turn the switch to both to have one large bank.  If a single bank fails I can easily isolate by switching to either 1 or 2.  This also allows me to measure each bank's voltage independently when switch is off so I know if one is developing a problem.
*  The starter battery is behind the engine.  I have the On-Off-Combine switch you describe under the head sink.  When I turn on the starter switch I ALWAYS open the engine through-hull and ALWAYS close when switch is off.
*  The alternator outputs power to the house bank.  The starter battery is charged through an Echo-charge.
*  If start battery is low I can switch the battery switch under sink to "combine".  I can disconnect the start battery with a circuit breaker near the battery if the battery ever develops an internal short.
*  Start battery will power house loads when under sink is set to "combine".

With my setup the starter battery is used every time I start the engine so I know it works.  House loads are isolated and charged directly by alternator.

This setup has served me well for many years.  It worked as expected the only time my start battery was low (Echo charge failed so battery wasn't charging, fuel pump uses power).  I'm able to power house loads when house battery is disconnected (i.e. when replacing batteries or cleaning terminals).

In hindsight a 1-2-both switch might be better than the On-Off-Combine switch, however as Maine Sail says in Stu's link, make sure it's the right fit for you.

I wouldn't delete your post.  It may be valuable to someone who's considering the same switch.

Main Message Board / Re: Generac 7117 GP2200I Generator Opinion wanted
« on: November 27, 2021, 08:14:00 AM »
Thanks for advice, especially on vent.  I decided to pass until I think through more how I'll use it.

Main Message Board / Generac 7117 GP2200I Generator Opinion wanted
« on: November 26, 2021, 08:30:15 AM »
Anyone have experience with a Generac 7117 GP2200i generator?  Amazon has one for $359 (black Friday sale ends today).  Specs seem similar to a Honda 2200 for 30% of the price and the Generac seems to be a better brand than some of the other inexpensive generators.  Differences I see:
* 1700 max watts vs 1800 for Honda
* Engine size (80cc vs. 121cc) which will result in more noise and possibly shorter life
* Noise, Generac doesn't publish DBs but will be louder
* Larger fuel tank for longer run time before fueling

My intended use:  Extend time at anchor without running the engine to charge batteries.  Reality is I'll use it only a few time a season.  I'll also look into a soft start device to run my AC (Webasto FCF 16000, 11 amps at 115v).

Main Message Board / Re: Installing Raymarine wind instruments
« on: October 06, 2021, 03:49:56 PM »
Medved--Last summer I replaced my Datamarine instruments with an i70s wind/depth/speed pack.  It took me a couple of weekends (10-20 hours?) to remove old and install new, including running new wiring.  A rigger charged $200 to install the wind instrument only, mast up (I connected it).  I didn't have an existing wind instrument so he used the VHF coax to bring a messenger line up through the mast conduit and pull the wind cable down.  It took him and a helper an hour or less for the job.  He said it went as smoothly as it could.  My 1990 has a keel stepped mast.

I agree with Noah that there are a lot of variables to the cost, including hourly rate and bid type (hourly estimate or fixed bid).

Main Message Board / Re: Sugar scoop transom thru-hulls/skin fittings
« on: October 03, 2021, 09:27:25 AM »
Noah, I haven't done this but remember thinking I'm glad I wasn't trying to replace the bilge hoses when I replaced my scupper hoses.  My cockpit drains seemed in good shape, but there's a difference in Chicago and San Diego sun damage.  The cockpit drains and their through-hulls should be easy compared to the bilge through-hulls.  Keep us posted on how it goes.

I've attached a picture of the hoses under Donnybrook's (#1010) sugar scoop.

Jon--My house bank has four flooded golf cart batteries.  The voltage range of the Optima is within range of what my charger puts out.



I added the dedicated start battery and high output alternator with external regulator at the same time.  I put the battery under the aft cabin, starboard side.  I used an Optima bluetop group 34 AGM battery because I wanted something that would be completely maintenance free and that I could mount at an angle because of the hull shape.   

The Xantrex echo charge has kept it alive for eight seasons.  Hopefully it'll stay alive for a few more!

Congratulations on your upgrade!  My fuel lift pump also runs from the starter battery with no issues.

If concerned that the stock alternator won't produce enough electricity to keep the starter battery charged with electric fuel pump draw, watch voltage while under way to ensure it doesn't drop.  How many amp hours reserve does your start battery have?

A lesson learned when I added a separate start battery: Make sure nothing else is inadvertantly consuming power from the start battery. In my case, the auto pilot was pulling power from behind the cockpit instrument panel.  I discovered this when I didn't see the current draw on my battery monitor.

Main Message Board / Re: Installing a rudder reference on a MKii
« on: September 17, 2021, 08:51:52 AM »
I attached a piece of starboard using existing holes in the quadrant and mounted the pivot to the starboard.  The 60 degree limit is for the rudder sensor.  Moving the pivot closer to the rudder post reduces swing and vice-versa.  It took some trial and error to find the best location.  You'll have plenty of room to work once you remove the water tank but mounting it upside down with enough clearance to put the tank back might be tricky. 

Main Message Board / Re: Motor mounts and engine alignment change over time
« on: September 14, 2021, 04:45:30 PM »
SOLVED!  Problem was a loose engine mount nut, the port, rear top one.  I somehow missed it on my initial inspection.  I tightened it and vibration was much improved.   I still need to make sure other nuts didn't move and check alignment but so far seems like an easy fix.

Lesson learned:  Make sure to double check the easy stuff first and don't assume the worst!

Thanks, KWKloeber.  My thinking for adjustment is  the engine would sag or otherwise shift over time.
Adjusting it to compensate might extend mount life. Sounds like that isn't the case.

Is 10 years (about 800 hours) the life I should expect from Vetus mounts? 

My other suspicion is injectors as they've not been changed in the nearly 20 years I've owned Donnybrook.  Engine has the same power and no increase in smoke as measured by soot near the exhaust, even after motoring a lot this summer.

Main Message Board / Motor mounts and engine alignment change over time
« on: August 27, 2021, 05:33:46 PM »
Last season I started to notice some vibration on my 1990 C34 with M25XP with 10 year old Vetus motor mounts.  Although it's still not bad, it's worse this season, especially at mid RPMs.  Previously it was super smooth.  Mounts are firmly bolted to the stringers and cutlass bearing is tight. 

Should I try to realign the engine to compensate for changes to 10 year old mounts, replace them due to age or look for another cause of the vibration?  Engine has 2000+ hours.


Interestingly, I recently saw a 60hp outboard on a 45'+ convertible fishing boat.  They used it for trolling at slow speed.

There are a few threads about this at  You can find with the search function.  Consensus seems to be it is not a good idea but there may be limited situations to consider it (i.e. to move the boat somewhere to repair or replace the diesel).  Other considerations are engine controls, fuel, reverse, keeping the prop in the water in waves, effectiveness of rudder, aesthetics, etc. 

UPDATE:  I added a 35# Mantus M1 with 50' of 1/4" HT chain and anchored out for 6 nights (three solo) on a recent two week cruise.  The weight wasn't an issue for me.  It was noticeably heavier but nothing I couldn't handle.  It came up with vertical pull each time as Stu described.  Twice I had to motor over the anchor to pull it up due to wind, but it came up.

The only time it did not set was in heavy weeds.  We moved to deeper water (fewer weeds) then it set fine. 

One night I misjudged the wind and woke up to 15-20 knots of wind over open water for a few hours.  The boat stayed exactly where she was supposed to.

I'm very happy with the results!  With the added confidence of the new anchor I'd now much rather anchor out than stay in a marina.

Main Message Board / Re: Getting ready for my longest trip, any advice
« on: August 01, 2021, 11:40:47 AM »
I agree with avoiding "we HAVE to be back home by Sunday" mentality.  For me it's "I'd like to be home Saturday morning to clean the boat, I should be home by Sunday afternoon to get a good night's sleep before work and I don't have to be anywhere until Monday morning."  Although with remote work, I don't really have to be home Monday morning, just near an internet connection.

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