Messages

I have replaced the water pump on my M35 B with an Oberdorfer for ease of impeller change.  There was no problem with the Sherwood when I did this.  Included are 2 impeller kits and a quick disconnect assembly for the hose to make belt changes easier.
All for $275 plus freight.
contact Kent at kjoverbeck@epbfi.comhttp://c34.org/bbs/Smileys/default/icon_clap.gif

Ron, the speed was calculated using my GPS on Lake Chickamauga, Chattanooga.  There was no wind and very little current but I averaged both upstream and downstream values. The RPMs have been "laser tached". On the "Loop" I used these benchmarks to establish just what kind of current I was encountering and it was nice to have them available.  
I have no confidence in a "calibrated MPH meter".  I am assuming you mean a through hull paddle wheel instrument. Grass, weeds etc. can change the accuracy in a heartbeat.  Besides, just how do you check the accuracy?  With a GPS!!  I guess that I should have stated the parameters initially.

Thanks for your reply,

Kent

Stu, I used MPH because all the inter-coastal charts and rivers use statute miles for the mileage markers.

Pretty much the same. I had to drill new holes for the mounting bracket.  It sticks out further but that's OK as it allows the intake hose to run between the filter and the wall instead of over the top.

Thanks, my spell checker didn't catch that

Tom,  I'm starting a new thread on this.  I'm curious what other experience.
My RPM and speed, in flat water (3 blade prop), clean bottom and loaded for cruising, follows.

1500 / 4.9 MPH

1800 / 6.0 MPH

2000 / 6.4 MPH

2200 / 7.0 MPH

2500 / 7.6 MPH

I generally cruise at 2200 and use .6 GPH of fuel.  Fuel usage drops to less than .4 GPH at 1800 and 3.5 at 1500.

What do the rest of you guys get?

Bee in the bowl, Primary filter problem

While doing the 6500-mile "Great Loop", one of the biggest pains in the butt was changing the primary fuel filter.  Carina is a 2001 MKII and the spin off filter is surrounded by the raw water hose and various throttle and transmission cables making it difficult to remove without making a mess.  I'm sure many have the same problem.  
I decided to replace the spin off with a top loading Racor 500 turbine series before we started our next extended cruise.  I made the change but could not get fuel to flow through the filter to fill the secondary filter.  If I manually filled the secondary, the engine would run for a short time then quit.  I repeated this procedure several times with the same results and decided to put my old filter back on.  When I did, all was good.  
I took the filter home, pressurized it and found no air leaks.  Mike, at Racor support, was patient but had no answers.  He wanted me to try it again as this is no rocket science.
I got the filter from the basement and was putting it in the back of the truck when I saw a BEE in the bowl!!  I must have dislodged it when I pressurized the unit.  I disassembled the filter, removed the bee, installed the new filter once again and everything worked as it should.  I don't know when or how the bee-yellow jacket got in there but I am extremely glad to be able to have the top loading filter working.  It is not only easier, but the paper filters cost about 1/3 of the spin on filters.

I now will tape all hoses, etc while work is in progress.  Has anybody encountered this before?

Very nice.   

Thanks guys.  I appreciate the input.

I need to add a 12-volt outlet to provide power (less than 4 amps) for an Engel refrigerator.  The Engel will sit on the floor of the entrance to the aft cabin.  I would like to wire the outlet to the 20 amp breaker by the fuel pump as it would take less than 2' of wire.  If properly fused, is there any problem in doing this?

Thanks, Kent 

Thanks for all of your comments.  I presently do what Mick does but occasionally put a little too much in.  This last time I only removed about 4-6 oz to get to the "full" mark.  Will be more careful in the future but not worry if I go a little over.

With no responses, I will follow the manual and keep oil level between the low and full marks.  It also seems that other M35B owners have the same result when changing oil.  They are only able to get a little over 3 1/2 quarts out including what is in the filter.  I guess it is just a characteristic of this motor and I will quit worrying about it.

At what point does overfilling become a problem.  At times I end up 1/4 " above the full mark on the dipstick.  In the past I have pumped some oil out to correct the level, but I wonder if this is necessary for what seems to be a very small overage.  My motor is a M35B and I can never get much more than 3 1/2 quarts out using the hose connected to the oil pan drain at what seems to be the low point.  The engine is hot, the filler cap off and I can hear sucking air.  Is there oil hiding out in my engine?

Here is a replay of my previous post.  I haven't changed my mind. 

We have just completed the "Great Loop".  It took 13 months and covered around 6500 miles.  Before we left on the trip I was going to buy a new anchor.  The problem was just what it was going to be.  I will not rehash all of the anchor discussion on the forum as it is readily available but just report on what we did.  I liked the Rocna but was concerned about quality.  Shortly before our trip Rocna changed their warranty to cover not just breakage but included bending if the anchor was sized to their recommendations.  That swayed me over.  I purchased a Rocna 15 (33#).  My rode is 50 ' of 5/16 G-4 chain and 250' of 5/8" 8 strand plaited nylon.  I got 250' so I could go back and drop a stern anchor if needed.
We anchored many times in a great variety of conditions and bottoms.  We had hard sand, soft sand, soft and hard mud, clay, grass and some weeds and at times a gravel mix of the above.  We had 6-8' tidal ranges along with the current and reverses that come with the tides, and sustained winds of over 60 MPH three times, conditions that can be very challenging when anchoring.  We never used a second anchor, not even when in strong current reverses.  The Rocna set first time, every time, very quickly and we never moved after that.  There was no problem when we had a wind or current shift as it seemed to reset immediately.  The biggest problem was getting all the mud etc. off.  I was evident the entire anchor was buried as the roll bar was covered. 
I guess it's obvious that I like the anchor.  That being said, I also have a 33# original Bruce that has given good service. I also have a 22# Delta fast set and a Fortress FX 11 that I have used on my Seaward 26 very satisfactorily.  I was in the company of a great variety of boats with various anchors and rarely saw anyone have serious problems they couldn't resolve.
I know there is more than one good new style anchor, but right now, after this trip, I'm a Rocna fan.
I also want to report that the 8 strand plaited rode was awesome.  It fell easily into the locker with no coiling or twisting and was very easy to handle.  Well worth the extra cost.

Jim, thanks for the info on the backing plate.  You saved me a lot of trouble.   As I said in my post, I now know that was not the safe or correct way to do it.  I now will be going directly to the cleat in the future.  I still like the idea of a center cleat.  I went to the boat to check out Scotty's concerns and it doesn't look as though it's a problem regarding the sheets.  As for tripping, well we don't go that far forward except to anchor but it was a thought.  Thanks for the reply Scotty.

Cheers,  Kent