Messages

If you have the original blocks then I'm betting you also have the original traveler car and end controls. One of the best upgrades we ever made to our boat was to upgrade the traveler and the three blocks that are attached to it. The traveler is easily adjusted even under full load and the mainsheet is also easier to work with.

I did the work myself.
The yard helped me source the materials. They are great !

As far as precision.. The shaft was in good alignment with the engine so I centered the new tube on the shaft and held it in place with some thickened epoxy. Next day the whole area got several layers of epoxy and fiberglass. If I was to do it again then I'd get the tool to remove the cutlas bearing without removing the shaft. But this wasn't exactly a job that had any forward planning.

I guess I thought my profile had all my details.
1987 C34 #326
Gloucester Point VA

Mark Tamblyn

A part of my spring time ritual is to loosen the nut on the packing box and check that all is behaving properly. Well this time after adjusting the packing I found a steady stream of water coming from behind the packing box in the area of the stern tube. Needless to say this quickly became a cause for concern. Zip ties, rags and the flow is now a drip.

Next morning we are getting hauled out! The cause of the leak was that the shaft has been running in the bottom of the stern tube and has worn a hole. The shaft is supposed to be centered in the tube and the engine then aligned to the shaft.

The fix that we settled on was to remove the shaft far enough back to cut the stern tube and then epoxy a new one in its place. Then reassemble and go back to sailing. Needless to say the job finished up being more involved. Once the shaft is free of the engine coupling it becomes clear that it would be wise to replace the cutlas bearing while we are doing this. And it is just as easy to buy a whole new stuffing box as it is to rehab the old one. Thank you to all the info in the wiki on cutlas bearing replacement, the only addition I have is to say that the three jaw puller from Advance Auto (free loaner) was invaluable. And why does Catalina choose to use a strut that can't be disassembled from the boat and taken to the press to change the cutlas bearing.

I'm happy to say we are back in the water and the boat motors beautifully.

Mark Tamblyn

My $0.02

Condition is the number one factor.
My list of things to consider in about the order of importance for my needs.

- How well cared for is the engine? The engine is IMHO the single most important thing. A well cared for engine in good condition. It can be a very expensive repair.
- What is the condition of the rigging? Upgrades to vang and mainsheet are really nice to have. The standing rigging has to be 100% and the survey you get should pay some attention to this.
- Sails. It's a sail boat and the condition and age of the sails will play a big part in how well she sails and how easy she is to handle. A blown out old head sail will make her sail badly and be very hard to control in the gusts.
- Look at the bottom and figure that a good clean bottom is very important. If the bottom has been well cared for then that is a good sign.
- Canvas. If you are anywhere in the south you need sun protection, A dodger was a must have for us as we like to sail in the early spring and late fall. Worn out canvas can easily be copied. No canvas means a very expensive dodger and bimini.
- Condition of the boat overall. Wax on the topsides and clean.
- Condition of each of the systems. Head, Fresh water, bilge, refrigeration, windlass (if your so lucky) etc

Now the addons:
A dingy and motor are expensive and if you can get one with the boat (and you need one) then consider that in the equation.
Creature comforts like cockpit cushions, improvements to the sleeping comforts.

Last on my list are enhancements to instruments and the like.
This stuff gets old fast is expensive and doesn't make the boat sail faster. It can add to the safety and pleasure of a journey but for us a handheld chart plotter, a good VHF and a depth sounder that works are about all the instruments that we need. Sailing in the fog in New England I would want/need to have radar but we are on the Chesapeake.


Best of luck in your search

Mark Tamblyn

The advice of not running your engine at full throttle is important. There is almost nothing to be gained in boat speed between 2500rpm and 3000rpm but fuel consumption and engine wear.Maybe a fraction of a knot.  If you are getting soot at 2500rpm then maybe you have a foul bottom and growth on the prop? If not then how smooth is the engine running? If it is not running happily then maybe a bad injector is your issue. That will lead to poor performance, soot and smoke but injectors are not cheap to replace or service. Investigate all your other options first. Changing injectors is a pretty simple job so if you decide to go that way then it is something you can likely do yourself.

Mak Tamblyn

I have plans to go to the boat show this weekend. It looks like Catalina will have several boats there to check out. It would be fun to meet some of you folks in person.

Also; What vendors are of interest. I'm always tempted when I pass the Garhauer stand to order more things to make my sailing day easier. The mainsheet upgrade was an enormous improvement. One day my topping lift is going to be retired with a solid vang (I'm always forgetting to release the thing)

Most likely Saturday at the show.

Mark Tamblyn

I have the M25 which came to me with a Sherwood pump. Replacing it with the Oberdorfer was one of the first things I did after buying the boat. The design of the Sherwood is so unhelpful when it comes to changing impellors that there was no argument in my mind.  My heat exchanger did have the remains of several impellors in it when I cleaned it out. If you are not getting sufficent cooling then my first advice is to remove the end caps from the heat exchanger and clean it out.  Next check that there is no obstruction to the inlet. My experience has been that the Oberdorfer does a great job and pumps more than enough water for the efficent cooling of the engine.

3" heat exchanger, M25 engine on the Chesapeake bay

My feeling is that the paste wax is the best product BUT I don't have the time or the money to employ someone with the time to do the job that way. Using liquid wax gets the job done which is most important. Waxing the boat is like wearing a sun hat. My brother says " your sun hat in not a fashion accessory" the same with wax even if the shine isn't perfect getting wax on there is the most important factor. If I ever get to live less than a two hour drive from the boat maybe then I'll change my perspective and work on the perfect shine and varnished teak. 

Mark

Another vote for Collinite.
I use the pre-wax cleaner (great stuff) and then the liquid wax. Goes on easy, wipe off before fully dry.  Job done.
Use lots of clean cotton rags.

This will keep a shine on the top-sides for a year.

Mark Tamblyn

I replaced the standing rigging on my C27 some years ago. The folks at SECO South had the best price.

http://www.secosouth.com

Mark Tamblyn

We had a similar situation. A little time with the volt meter and a wire to the battery, showed volts at the 1/2/All switch but no volts at the engine or engine panel. When we pulled the cable from the starter back to the battery switch it was corroded and the load had melted the remaining strands of wire. It shouldn't take long to chase down where you have voltage and don't.

BTW
The engine cranks so much faster now!

Mark Tamblyn

A regular bucket (very handy for other uses too) on the engine cover under the companionway stairs.

Mark T

IMHO
Take the HX out, remove the end caps and clean it out gently. Mine was full of all kinds of crud and cleaning it made a big difference. Not a big job and well worth the effort.

Mark Tamblyn

Sounds like a good solution. But for those of us who live where is doesn't ever rain and the deck never gets wet I,m prepared to bet that there is moisture in the deck of their boat. A 25 year old boat is going to have all sorts of issues. I can't help feeling that the issue of moisture in decks and the repair of this is a great way for yards to make money, surveyors to find faults and something to worry about that makes no difference to the way the boat sails, how she looks or how safe the rig is. </end rant>

The C34 is a fantastic boat that is well built and sails beautifully. You are going to be very happy with your purchase. Congratulations

Mark Tamblyn 

Try using the foot pump for inflating your dinghy to blow air back through the thru hull. I can't tell from your signature whare you may be in the country but if it is a jellyfish or weed then this might clear the blockage.

Mark T