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Hello Ken,

Just saw your last post this morning after I posted my fix and thanks for the diagram which is much better than my owner's manual.  Is this different from the M35AC model?

Thanks!

-Mark

Hello Again from Milwaukee.

Stu wisely advised me to start my discovery process with a good cleaning of the battery terminals.  After that was completed, it now seems fine.  It would be interesting to know how many of us unsuspecting newbies (not new to the boat, just the complexities of marine electrical systems) have admitted embarrassingly, that it was a simple solution to a confusing problem.  I have to add my name to the list - again...  Thanks to you all for the guidance and insights again.  The experience taught not only considerably more information than I had previously and was somewhat hesitant to learn, but also a valuable lesson in keeping that battery compartment on the checklist of high priority maintenance issues.

Other lessons learned were to keep those engine electrical connections clean which will be happening next.

Incidentally, the SteinWay IV has a Universal M35AC engine. (I uploaded a photo of the plate on the engine but file size was too large - sorry).

Ken, my X country was in a 152 (along with 75% of my training).  I now only rent the 172s but haven't flown since October.

My thanks to you all and if I could, I'd stop by each of your boats with a cold six-pack.  You guys are the best and C34 owners are fortunate to have such an important resource.  Enjoy your summer and good winds and flat seas to you all.

-Mark

You guys are the best.  Just sayin'

Hi Ken,
Yes, volt meter is what I meant (thanks for the pass Stu).  I have gummy bears at the helm panel, the original harness that connects to a terminal bar in the pod at the helm and I'll send pictures this weekend.  Great point on the breaker(s) that simply trying to push them hardly constitutes a test of their working or not.  I didn't test them and honestly, not sure how to do that.  I've had the boat since 2008 and I don't think the previous made changes to the engine so will send more pics of this too.

Hi Ron,
Thanks for the corrections and I'm a little embarrassed since I actually do know enough to understand the difference between ammeter (I fly Cessna 172s and they have one) and a volt meter. I'll also confirm the voltage at the ignition switch in the off position to make sure it's showing a fall off.

Hi Stu,
I did replace the alternator about 6 years ago and had a slip neighbor/marine mechanic do the work.  It hasn't given me reason to worry, but then again, I certainly could have missed signs with which I'm not familiar.  Thanks for the suggestions on checking the wiring thoroughly and to your point about the extent of the voltage decrease from battery to ignition switch (and from Ron), it gives me a place to start. Tracing that wire, it appears to come into the engine compartment and go to both the starter (where the main power cable attaches) and the alternator. I confess I'm timid about tugging on wires that connect to a 24 year-old engine with my unfamiliarity of how and what they are for, but completely agree that if they're bad,  I need to address it.  I checked behind the 1-2-B switch and found nothing in behind the panel that looked loose or damaged.  I will be picking up dielectric grease today and going over all terminals to clean and apply. Will review the critical upgrades section as well.  I'm glad to hear that you don't suspect the alternator, but it would have been much simpler to correct I bet.
I will do the checks and get back to you all.

Hi Mark (great name by the way),
Thanks for the confirmation about the voltage.  The two 4D house batteries are on "1" while a smaller starting battery is on "2" (I did this modification my self about 4 years ago).  I'm going to grab a cleaning brush along with the grease today and will get to work.

I'll post back after I get a chance to get down there this weekend and do more work.

Thanks to you all for the insights and guidance. I'm thinking I might actually be able to track this down now that I have a few ideas of where to look.  I'll be back in touch soon.

Hello Fellow C34 Owners,

I hesitated to post this question knowing the extent to which the general topic is already covered within the MB, but this specific diagnostic is driving me nuts, and I can't seem to find anyone who can help identify the likely culprit.  So I'm appealing to the experts and taking a risk that while I did a thorough search of the MB to find this problem already posted, I didn't miss something.  So, here goes...

I have a 1997 MkII #1357 and had no power to the engine panel at the helm when I first tuned on the ignition while "on the hard" this spring. The engine breaker (mounted on the engine - whose idea was that?), and engine panel breaker were fine.  It turned out that wiggling the positive terminal leads on the battery resulted in the power being restored.  I assumed I had a bad wire crimp, bad wire terminal or dirty leads, etc., but everything looked good seemed to work fine after my discovery.  Fast forward three weeks and it had happened only one other time with the same remedy.  However, last weekend, when I tried engaging the glow plugs, the power went out at the engine panel again.  I needed to completely remove and then reconnect the battery wires (either positive or negative) for about 30 seconds to restore the power to the engine panel but when trying again, engaging the glow plugs caused the power to go out.  This now happens consistently.

I've opened up the engine compartment and checked for any loose wires.  My mutimeter says I have about 13.4 volts coming out of the batteries and with the engine panel face removed, I was able to measure about 11.6 volts at the ignition switch before trying to engage the glow plugs.  Out of desperation, I tried just engaging the starter before trying the glow plugs and the starter worked, after which the glow plugs would engage without loosing power and get the engine started.  Once running, the tachometer was not working and the ammeter on the engine panel read barely above 12 volts regardless of the engine RPMs.  I assume isn't quite right.

My theory after reading more about this (and unfortunately getting myself more confused), was that somehow the alternator is involved in the problem and may have faulty components that are causing the power supply to be interrupted when the power draw increases to engage the glow plugs. If true, I don't know why the starter would work given that is huge draw as well. 

I'd really appreciate any advice or guidance on what might be causing the problem or what else I should be checking.

I'm so grateful to the C34 community and have learned a great deal from other's experiences and expertise.

Thanks in advance and hope everyone is well and having a great sailing season.

-Mark Stein, SteinWay IV #1354
Milwaukee, Wisconsin

We have a full set available from our 1997 Mk II, SteinWay IV, hull number 1357.  The long side cushions were new when we bought the boat in 2008 and the others, are original equipment.  The three rear seat cushions are showing some wear but the stern rail pair are in good condition. They are all white and have foam interior and have been stored at home during the winter since we've owned the boat.

If you need cushions, please contact me, or let me if you would like to see pictures.  You can contact me directly at mstein9@wi.rr.com.  I'm located in Milwaukee, Wisconsin area.

Thanks.

-Mark

We recently replaced our cockpit cushions with C Cushions from the boat show this past winter.  So, we have a set available from our 1997 Mk II, SteinWay IV, hull number 1357.  The long side cushions were new when we bought the boat in 2007 and the others, I'm fairly certain, are original equipment.  The three rear seat cushions are showing some wear but the stern rail pair are in good condition. They are all white and have foam interior and have been stored at home during the winter since we've owned the boat.

We just recieved the C Cushions and they came in two large boxes (although not very heavy), so we may be able to get them into the same boxes to ship.

If you need cushions, please contact me.

Please make us an offer or contact me if you would like to see pctures.

Thanks.

-Mark

Greetings from a foggy day on Lake Michigan.

While attempting to diagnose why my tachometer stopped working on our 1997 mkII "SteinWay IV", I developed a more serious problem.  I now have no power at the engine panel.  The tachometer stopped working about a week ago and while I don't consider myself qualified to figure out the problem, I wanted to at least pull the panel and see if anything obvious was wrong like a loose or broken wire, etc.  While the panel was open, I found nothing suspicious or out of order and put the panel back on.  After reassembled, I turned on the key and everything came to life and I noted that the tachometer when not powered, reads about 300-400 RPM, but as soon as power was on, read zero.

I had read on the C34 Forum that the tachometer gets information from the alternator, so I next opened the engine compartment, checked the wires on the back of the alternator and wiggled them to see if anything was loose.  Again, everything seemed fine.  Just to see if my wiggling had any impact, I went back to the helm to start the engine and turned the key to find nothing happend.  I pulled the panel and found no power from the harness "postive" wire that powers the ignition switch.

Does anyone have a suggestion of what I may have done?  Is there a breaker somewhere that could have been tripped or some other obvious thing I could check?  Does the inoperative tachometer provide a hint about what may be happening?

Thanks and a very Happy Father's Day to all you Dads.

-Mark Stein, Milwaukee, WI

Thanks very much for the information.  I did connect with the seller of the unit from the C34 forum and it looks like it will work.

I appreciate all your help and suggestions.

All the best,

-Mark

Thanks for the responses.  The unit is not responding to input but appears to have power so I assume something major is wrong with the electronics.

I also checked with an online retailer who specialize in unusual size appliances and explained the need.  They were not aware of any manufacturer that is currently making units less than 10" high.

All my best,

Mark

PS, I'll email Steve about the unit he removed from his boat.

We have a 1997 MkII that needs a new microwave.  The original finally gave up last season with, I suspect, some help from our marina's quirky electrical system.  After measuring the size of the cabinet in which the original (and I assume it's the factory original Catalina installed) was installed, I am finding it impossible to locate a model that will accommodate the 9 3/4 height opening in which it must fit.  From what I've been able to glean in searching the internet ad nauseum, the industry seems to have nothing less than 10 1/4 inches in overall height.

While I'm fairly handy with most of the on-board systems and mechanical/electrical maintenance, I am not proficient in woodworking and would not like to see the results of any attempts I would make to modify the nicely finished trim around the opening.  Does anyone have experience with a replacement that fits the standard Catalina cabinet or knows a place to at least look for new unit?

Thanks.

-Mark Stein, Franklin, WI

Indeed, as a "geeky" sailor, I do tend to focus on the need for "data" while under way.

Thanks for your feedback and perspective.

-Mark

Thanks Jon, that's pretty much what I feared and suspected.  Can you suggest a unit that would as easily interface with the other Autohelm instruments of the era that I could keep an eye out for on ebay?  I would like to simply replace the whole thing with a Raymarine E80 but the Admiral has limited support for further purchases this season since the boat was just delivered a few weeks ago!

Any ideas would be much appreciated.

Thanks again.

-Mark

Hello,

We just bought our first C34 (Hull #1354) this Spring and absolutely love the boat!  The only problem I've found is the chartplotter.  Does anyone have experience with troubleshooting an Autohelm Navcenter 300?  I have looked high and low on the Internet and found nothing.  The problem is that the screen won't display consistently unless there is pressure put on the sides of the unit.  It's almost like a loose wire???  When the display is visible, the unit seems to work correctly, but then either when the helm is bumped or after touching the operating controls, it will "blink" out again.

Although I have a call into Raymarine to inquire about getting it diagnosed, I'm afraid the cost to repair will be prohibitive.

Are there any ideas or similar experiences out there?

Thanks.

-Mark